Nicolas Ghesquière - Designer, Creative Director of Louis Vuitton

[tourbillions]

Is he afraid to create his own label? or has he said something in the past about not wanting to do such?

i guess making their own label is not for everyone, moreso if you are already designing for one of the most popular houses. Karl for example, seems his own label turned into a caricature of himself selling poor copies from different brands.

 

[nilobraz]

I'm not a huge fan of his work, his collections are hit or miss for me, but he's the only designer from a major brand who still gives me that “I don't know what to expect” feeling when he releases a new collection. He deserves to stay

 

[Drusilla_]

A lot of press regarding the continuation of his appointment. They seem quite pleased.

It’s been an interesting tenure creatively. Not always the most successful and I do think he is challenging himself which is great. But it’s littered with really ugly, challenging propostions for clothing lol. I still love him though because when he’s on, he’s ON.

I’m looking forward to seeing what he gives us the next five years.

He got off to a slightly wobbly start on the clothes front but the pandemic years or better styling, I don't know what, somehow turned out to be the thing that finally showed me he COULD make great clothes at LV, he still has the capacity to move the needle of fashion. I mean, the big ruffled puffy/bubble-like skirts at A/W 2021 and those ties at A/W 2022? I saw who gave those trends a going-over a year later.

(bag collections have always been solid, that Petit Malle was a smash hit from day 1)

 

[LadyJunon]

He got off to a slightly wobbly start on the clothes front but the pandemic years or better styling, I don't know what, somehow turned out to be the thing that finally showed me he COULD make great clothes at LV, he still has the capacity to move the needle of fashion. I mean, the big ruffled puffy/bubble-like skirts at A/W 2021 and those ties at A/W 2022? I saw who gave those trends a going-over a year later.

(bag collections have always been solid, that Petit Malle was a smash hit from day 1)

The evolution of Ghesquière's work at Louis Vuitton is quite weird to be honest. It felt like he was going back-and-forth very often. I think that it's mainly because of Ghesquière being torn between his desire to create an actual sartorial proposition for his customers and Burke's wishes to create spectacles to seduce customers to buy bags, jewellery and pre-collections.

His eighteen months (AW14, RE15, SS15, FW15) started off as this conservative/bourgeoisie version of Balenciaga. Solid collections, but not really groundbreaking. Then from RE16, we had this series of hit-or-miss collections (hits being AW16, RE17, RE18, AW18). He renews his contract, giving us three hits (RE19, SS19, AW19) before moving to to a gross Michele-esque vibe until the pandemic hits. We have the SS21 shitshow, then from AW21, he just delivers consistently good collections.

His Balenciaga was very linear. He started off with a very Yohji-esque look in the late 90s, which was the residuals of his former job designing golf clothes, funeral and wedding dresses for the Japanese licensing market. His more iconic razor-sharp, super-intricate, skinny look was more of a product of the 00s.

 

[Nimsay]

NG is launching his first canvas - Monogram Dune. I think its permnanent. I dont remember if damier azur was a runway item for MJ. I think only recently has the NG fully permeated LV. At least the handbags in store - starting with the side trunk and atlantis really. They are still putting out rainbow color capsule collections that have nothing to do with the runway. with logo t shirts and logo elastane.

I think the Fall 23 collection has been distilled so perfectly. Most of whats in store is runway and the pieces are much better in person. The LV womens RTW proposition is very futuristic. I just imagine the LV woman running around Paris living her life. Really its about layering but keeping a feminine edge.

That pearly dress with cutouts is perfect over the cashmere legging bodysuit. with chunky sneakers - perfect for running around Paris looking for the perfect Eclair. That bodysuit base can work with the boots and the plisse blazer from fw23 too. Its almost Armor like in the assembly.

 

[LadyJunon]

An analysis of Ghesquière's work for Louis Vuitton:

 

[fenty]

I'm not a huge fan of his work, his collections are hit or miss for me, but he's the only designer from a major brand who still gives me that “I don't know what to expect” feeling when he releases a new collection. He deserves to stay

I have that same exact feeling with him and also, I might look at a particular collection again and be like "maybe this wasn't so bad". Im always looking forward to see what he does next at LV

 

[susseinmcswanny]

Btw he's been posting on insta about a lookback on his 10 years at LV and he really has done some iconic looks there when I think about it, especially with Freja

 

[kasper!]

From Nova Magazine July 2000. I will upload the full interview when I receive the magazine.

 

[reese06]

Zara just released an “atelier” collection that is definitely heavily influenced by his LV

 

[LadyJunon]

Zara just released an “atelier” collection that is definitely heavily influenced by his LV

"You can do it, you can do it, I did it already."

 

[LadyJunon]

Louis Vuitton is calling Cruise and Pre-Fall shows "Voyager Shows":

Louis Vuitton Picks Shanghai to Debut ‘Voyager Show’ Concept

Scheduled for April 18 at the Long Museum West Bund, the event presenting the pre-fall 2024 collection will be the first under the moniker “Louis Vuitton Voyager Shows.”

By MILES SOCHA
DECEMBER 20, 2023, 1:00AM

Nicolas Ghesquière, who staged his first destination show for Louis Vuitton‘s pre-fall collection earlier this year in Seoul, will head to Shanghai next spring, WWD has learned.

The event is scheduled for April 18 at the Long Museum West Bund, whose imposing, futuristic architecture is of the ilk Ghesquière treasures for his fashion spectacles.

It will be the first under the new moniker “Louis Vuitton Voyager Shows,” an umbrella for the brand’s men’s and women’s pre-fall and cruise collections shown in locales around the world. Under this concept, local setting and cultural exchange are to play a significant part in each stop.

The Shanghai-based museum’s vast collection, with an accent on traditional and contemporary Chinese art, also fits in with Vuitton’s positioning as a cultural brand.

Ghesquière, who recently topped up his contract at Vuitton for five more years as artistic director of women’s collections, partnered with the luxury giant’s new chairman and chief executive officer, Pietro Beccari, to add a fourth runway show to his workload.

The first unfurled last April at a monumental event staged on the Jamsugyo bridge in Seoul.

In tune with the maison’s “spirt of travel” ethos, Ghesquière initiated destination shows for Vuitton for the cruise season, staging the first in 2014 at Place du Palais in Monaco.

The French designer has orchestrated each subsequent cruise show around an architectural marvel — buildings by John Lautner, Oscar Niemeyer, I.M. Pei, Joseph Lluis Sert, and Eero Saarinen, to name a few — or a stunning garden.

China has been a particular focus in recent years for lavish Vuitton fashion events, with men’s artistic director Pharrell Williams staging his first pre-fall collection last month in Hong Kong.

Williams’ predecessor, the late Virgil Abloh, staged an outdoor fashion spectacle on Shanghai’s West Bund in 2020. Vuitton also presented a “spin-off” show for its men’s spring 2023 collection at Aranya Gold Coast, a resort town in Beidaihe that’s a two-hour train ride from Beijing.

Vuitton has done business in China since 1992, according to the company.

After being paraded in Shanghai, the women’s pre-fall collection 2024 will be available in all Louis Vuitton stores worldwide May 17.

The Long Museum West Bund contains part of billionaire couple Liu Yiqian and Wang Wei’s vast collection of artworks from around the world and across various periods. Designed by Liu Yichun of Atelier Deshaus, the structure is described as a “vault-umbrella” style, and the flowing concrete surfaces reflect the traditionally industrial surroundings.

In recent years, China has witnessed a proliferation of private museums where the collections of wealthy citizens have been opened up to the general public.

Liu and Wang’s collection at the Long Museum covers multiple categories including Chinese revolutionary art, as well as other contemporary artworks that originate from the various parts of the world, including Asia, Europe and the United States.

In addition to exhibitions, the museum fosters research work and public education.

Dior has held several events at the Long Museum before: a pre-fall women’s show in 2021, repeat of a Dior Men show in 2014, and the sprawling “Christian Dior: Designer of Dreams” exhibition in 2020.

Source: WWD

 

[Lola701]

I don’t know if it’s a good strategy to hold a prefall show for the launch of the actual collection 1 month after and then have resort nearly 3 weeks after the show…

I don’t feel like the Seoul collection had a significant impact even if I believe those types of events, even more in Asia means immediate sales.

December for prefall was good IMO.
Either they disrupt totally the calendar but doing it half way can be confusing…

 

[LadyJunon]

I don’t know if it’s a good strategy to hold a prefall show for the launch of the actual collection 1 month after and then have resort nearly 3 weeks after the show…

I don’t feel like the Seoul collection had a significant impact even if I believe those types of events, even more in Asia means immediate sales.

December for prefall was good IMO.
Either they disrupt totally the calendar but doing it half way can be confusing…

The approximate order for the Resort destination shows seems to be: Chanel→Dior→Gucci→Louis Vuitton→Saint Laurent

Ideally, it would be similar in December next to Chanel's MDA show, but LVMH (LV and Dior) prefers to give the December slot to the menswear. It could be possible to try to fit a show or two inbetween the Couture shows and NYFW. April feels way too late.

 

[kasper!]

No offense but this is what you see at most stores now lol.

 

[Lola701]

View attachment 1246910

No offense but this is what you see at most stores now lol.

I cringe everytime I see those pieces and see people buying them…
This is what luxury shoppers wants unfortunately, particularly in the US!
All the good stuff goes to Asia and they still have some pieces though at Vendome, Champs Élysées and Montaigne. I personally mostly shop at Vendome.
And they always have the most special pieces there!

The talk about quiet luxury is almost a joke because people buying from big brands want the world to know.

 

[tourbillions]

im in dubai and i think stores here have 50/50 of the merch and runway. merch for the russians and runway for the locals

 

[yslforever]

im in dubai and i think stores here have 50/50 of the merch and runway. merch for the russians and runway for the locals

I only shop Left Bank, it's 50/50 merch/runway even in the smaller shops, like St-Germain des Prés ou Le Bon Marché, but they do indeed sell both at different customers, even au Bon Marché.
I am not a LV fan but they managed to get several customers bases, one for the merch and another for the higher fashion, (and one for the clownish menswear).
Huge credits to Nicolas for that.

 

[tourbillions]

yeah it is amazing how they are able to cater to such a wide variety of customers. That's why i really can't complain when they send out collections like the last menswear. They know what they're doing and everyone is buying louis vuitton rtw now, not just leathergoods. TBF the merch line for women still has some touches of nicolas

 

[Lola701]

yeah it is amazing how they are able to cater to such a wide variety of customers. That's why i really can't complain when they send out collections like the last menswear. They know what they're doing and everyone is buying louis vuitton rtw now, not just leathergoods. TBF the merch line for women still has some touches of nicolas

But it think somehow the way men consumes Vuitton is different.
I think the Pharrell’s stuff fan might look for a sartorial option at Vuitton or even a fan of a brand can look at the brand’s sartorial option.

I don’t feel like you can build a wardrobe with Vuitton menswear compared to the womenswear. I’ve actually build a wardrobe since 2014 and I wasn’t a big LV fan/customer before even if I enjoyed some Marc’s shows and everything he has done.

Oh but about the merch, Nicolas was clever and lazy about it. It’s basically silhouettes from his earlier seasons with logos. They have conservative options, some Redcarpet pieces too that are generally at the Vendome store.