It seems all the designers who are considered “de rigeur” need to have that „challenging the preception of…“ factor, otherwise I can‘t fathom the reason behind the ongoing success of Miuccia Prada, JW Anderson and yes, red carpet dressing as in most of these custom looks from Vuitton that appeared on the red carpets most recently.
All of that makes it feel like a relic of a bygone era when designers like Helmut Lang or Tom Ford insisted that most people dress first and foremost to look the best version of themselves.
When I look at how 'cool girls' like the Traina sisters, Jennifer Connelly, Joana Preiss or Chloe Sevigny looked wearing some of Nicolas' most memorable collections from the past, I think it‘s undeniable those looks were at once ambitiously designed, effortless and undeniably cool.
These dresses really aren‘t that, I‘m afraid.
I agree 100% but I think the business of fashion has changed a lot of those things.
In the past, the business was very much different. Stylist were in fact glorified personal shoppers for the most part as very few had access to the facilities provided by houses and so, they bought outfits and composed looks. Designers had personal relationships with celebrities, who in general connected with their work in a organic way (buying or when they were really into fashion, contacted the PR team of the house for some clothes).
Things have really changed in the past 8/7 years. It’s a fashion game in a way.
Today Celebrities are all chasing contracts. Their stylists too wants the connections to those brands.
So it’s less about « I’m going to look my best or my most comfortable on the Redcarpet » but, « I’m going to standout and appear and market myself as a fashion icon because it will raise my status ».
So indeed, when the studio design a dress like the red dress, the stylist is more than welcomed to challenge their client. And of course, Nicolas will be flattered in the idea that someone would choose such a daring look for a ceremony.
But I think Nicolas has always been about that idea of challenging Redcarpet looks. I hated his first Oscars dress he did for Jennifer Connelly in 2001 but I saw a video when he talked about it. The good thing is that he made clothes for women who had a connection to his clothes: Jennifer Connelly, Nicole Kidman, Charlotte Gainsbourg…etc.
And then there were the Vanessa Traina and others who were customers.
Today ok, he still has his devotee who wears his clothes on their daily life (and they generally looks the best in his clothes, even someone like Catherine Deneuve) but in the sea of paid Ambassadors, chasing contracts celebrities and others, it’s difficult to see through things.
I think today for all of the brands, the word is confusion.
At with Nicolas, I feel like people just try to wear the runway look HtoT just to fit.
Me personally, I love the way Lous and the Yakuza and my all time favorite Brune de Buonomamo wears Nicolas clothes. One is an ambassador and the other is one of his friend (and the sister of his longtime assistant). They wears it because it’s their style. But it’s not a Redcarpet situation.
And I have to say that I have the same issue with every house. The increase of ambassadors has killed personal style. And now, you have clients who are trying to compete with celebrities too…But that’s another topic.
