Nicolas Ghesquière - Designer, Creative Director of Louis Vuitton

[Alquimista]

I wish Nicolas approved something more casual for the red carpet tbh. The lamp dress is quite conservative if you really reflect. Its like dior and cardin had a (ugly) baby.

 

[tourbillions]

is she promoting a live-action beauty and the beast?

 

[tricotineacetat]

I don’t think he is because based on his talks with the ambassadors, he (and his team) seems to be really interested in challenging the perception of Redcarpet dressing…

It seems all the designers who are considered “de rigeur” need to have that „challenging the preception of…“ factor, otherwise I can‘t fathom the reason behind the ongoing success of Miuccia Prada, JW Anderson and yes, red carpet dressing as in most of these custom looks from Vuitton that appeared on the red carpets most recently.

All of that makes it feel like a relic of a bygone era when designers like Helmut Lang or Tom Ford insisted that most people dress first and foremost to look the best version of themselves.

When I look at how 'cool girls' like the Traina sisters, Jennifer Connelly, Joana Preiss or Chloe Sevigny looked wearing some of Nicolas' most memorable collections from the past, I think it‘s undeniable those looks were at once ambitiously designed, effortless and undeniably cool.

These dresses really aren‘t that, I‘m afraid.

 

[Alquimista]

The runways clothes look so much better now on celebrities/influencers than they did a couple of years back.
Nicolas just need to move on from the ankle boot and anything oversize.

 

[tricotineacetat]

The runways clothes look so much better now on celebrities/influencers than they did a couple of years back.
Nicolas just need to move on from the ankle boot and anything oversize.

Some of these looks really fall into the „very unflattering / rather contrived“ category to me - Particularly the long grey 80ies jacket with matching hat and ankle boots look. Yikes.

 

[Lola701]

It seems all the designers who are considered “de rigeur” need to have that „challenging the preception of…“ factor, otherwise I can‘t fathom the reason behind the ongoing success of Miuccia Prada, JW Anderson and yes, red carpet dressing as in most of these custom looks from Vuitton that appeared on the red carpets most recently.

All of that makes it feel like a relic of a bygone era when designers like Helmut Lang or Tom Ford insisted that most people dress first and foremost to look the best version of themselves.

When I look at how 'cool girls' like the Traina sisters, Jennifer Connelly, Joana Preiss or Chloe Sevigny looked wearing some of Nicolas' most memorable collections from the past, I think it‘s undeniable those looks were at once ambitiously designed, effortless and undeniably cool.

These dresses really aren‘t that, I‘m afraid.

I agree 100% but I think the business of fashion has changed a lot of those things.

In the past, the business was very much different. Stylist were in fact glorified personal shoppers for the most part as very few had access to the facilities provided by houses and so, they bought outfits and composed looks. Designers had personal relationships with celebrities, who in general connected with their work in a organic way (buying or when they were really into fashion, contacted the PR team of the house for some clothes).

Things have really changed in the past 8/7 years. It’s a fashion game in a way.
Today Celebrities are all chasing contracts. Their stylists too wants the connections to those brands.
So it’s less about « I’m going to look my best or my most comfortable on the Redcarpet » but, « I’m going to standout and appear and market myself as a fashion icon because it will raise my status ».
So indeed, when the studio design a dress like the red dress, the stylist is more than welcomed to challenge their client. And of course, Nicolas will be flattered in the idea that someone would choose such a daring look for a ceremony.

But I think Nicolas has always been about that idea of challenging Redcarpet looks. I hated his first Oscars dress he did for Jennifer Connelly in 2001 but I saw a video when he talked about it. The good thing is that he made clothes for women who had a connection to his clothes: Jennifer Connelly, Nicole Kidman, Charlotte Gainsbourg…etc.
And then there were the Vanessa Traina and others who were customers.

Today ok, he still has his devotee who wears his clothes on their daily life (and they generally looks the best in his clothes, even someone like Catherine Deneuve) but in the sea of paid Ambassadors, chasing contracts celebrities and others, it’s difficult to see through things.

I think today for all of the brands, the word is confusion.
At with Nicolas, I feel like people just try to wear the runway look HtoT just to fit.

Me personally, I love the way Lous and the Yakuza and my all time favorite Brune de Buonomamo wears Nicolas clothes. One is an ambassador and the other is one of his friend (and the sister of his longtime assistant). They wears it because it’s their style. But it’s not a Redcarpet situation.

And I have to say that I have the same issue with every house. The increase of ambassadors has killed personal style. And now, you have clients who are trying to compete with celebrities too…But that’s another topic.

 

[blueorchid]

I am sure that one day we will look back and thank God for Louis Vuitton and Ghesquière for having invented the perfect outfit to shoplift an Ikea store… But today is not that day and this is the most horrendous thing I have ever seen.

It’s like a de dragged version of this dress + a dusty Pierre Cardin design


draglicious

 

[tricotineacetat]

I agree 100% but I think the business of fashion has changed a lot of those things.

In the past, the business was very much different. Stylist were in fact glorified personal shoppers for the most part as very few had access to the facilities provided by houses and so, they bought outfits and composed looks. Designers had personal relationships with celebrities, who in general connected with their work in a organic way (buying or when they were really into fashion, contacted the PR team of the house for some clothes).

Things have really changed in the past 8/7 years. It’s a fashion game in a way.
Today Celebrities are all chasing contracts. Their stylists too wants the connections to those brands.
So it’s less about « I’m going to look my best or my most comfortable on the Redcarpet » but, « I’m going to standout and appear and market myself as a fashion icon because it will raise my status ».
So indeed, when the studio design a dress like the red dress, the stylist is more than welcomed to challenge their client. And of course, Nicolas will be flattered in the idea that someone would choose such a daring look for a ceremony.

But I think Nicolas has always been about that idea of challenging Redcarpet looks. I hated his first Oscars dress he did for Jennifer Connelly in 2001 but I saw a video when he talked about it. The good thing is that he made clothes for women who had a connection to his clothes: Jennifer Connelly, Nicole Kidman, Charlotte Gainsbourg…etc.
And then there were the Vanessa Traina and others who were customers.

Today ok, he still has his devotee who wears his clothes on their daily life (and they generally looks the best in his clothes, even someone like Catherine Deneuve) but in the sea of paid Ambassadors, chasing contracts celebrities and others, it’s difficult to see through things.

I think today for all of the brands, the word is confusion.
At with Nicolas, I feel like people just try to wear the runway look HtoT just to fit.

Me personally, I love the way Lous and the Yakuza and my all time favorite Brune de Buonomamo wears Nicolas clothes. One is an ambassador and the other is one of his friend (and the sister of his longtime assistant). They wears it because it’s their style. But it’s not a Redcarpet situation.

And I have to say that I have the same issue with every house. The increase of ambassadors has killed personal style. And now, you have clients who are trying to compete with celebrities too…But that’s another topic.

Don‘t you think it‘s still possible to stand out with something that is both ambitioned *and* making the wearer look great? What service does it do to the brand if the looks you see in the public don‘t make the wearer look great? I dunno, that red lantern monstrosity looks like the worst marriage of trying to do conservative red carpet with s silly lantern… *thing* below the waist that nobody aspires to.

It’s not like Nicolas doesn‘t have a good statement evening piece per each collection. A Lesage or Ollier beaded jacket with a neat trouser would have fitted much more the esprit we associate with him.

 

[Lola701]

Don‘t you think it‘s still possible to stand out with something that is both ambitioned *and* making the wearer look great? What service does it do to the brand if the looks you see in the public don‘t make the wearer look great? I dunno, that red lantern monstrosity looks like the worst marriage of trying to do conservative red carpet with s silly lantern… *thing* below the waist that nobody aspires to.

It’s not like Nicolas doesn‘t have a good statement evening piece per each collection. A Lesage or Ollier beaded jacket with a neat trouser would have fitted much more the esprit we associate with him.

I think it’s totally possible but then it’s almost like two different exercises because for me, Redcarpet fashion is totally detached from « fashion ».
So I don’t know what I should expect from that. They have dedicated teams for those special projects at every houses. And sometimes, the looks aren’t really connected to what was shown on the runway but are kind of in-line with the vision of the designer.

Am I supposed to base my appreciation for his work on customs looks made by the team inspired by his work in collaboration with the stylist?

It’s the same for people wearing Head to toe, styled like what MAS did for the show but replicated by their celebrity stylists and credited to their celebrity stylists.

If you want to make someone looks good, you mix and match. The purpose of the runway look isn’t always to send a good look.

And btw, I don’t find the the lantern dress horrible. I think it’s an unfortunately length.
It could have been less extreme in volumes too but I’m not sure the effect would have been the same.
The actress is pulling that off with a great aplomb.

 

[IndigoHomme]

I am sure that one day we will look back and thank God for Louis Vuitton and Ghesquière for having invented the perfect outfit to shoplift an Ikea store… But today is not that day and this is the most horrendous thing I have ever seen.

After the red carpet, you can put a spotlight inside and you have a nice lamp for the reception of a sex shop. The new Chalayan of fashion.

 

[Nimsay]

not feeling great about Nic’s future. Being reminded he may think beauty is fascist could be why he refuses to make pretty dresses.

Its looking like he isn’t gonna make the cut and will stay in that 2010s energy that we are currently exiting all over the world.

 

[FashionPower]

I often think that Balenciaga mid 2000's collections were not designed by Ghesquiere but by some ghost designer, cause there is no way the designer behind the stellar collections of SS06, FW07 and FW08 (just to name few) is the same who's been milking the same 80's scifi extravaganza at Louis Vuitton for almost a decade now.
Most designers are actually pretty consistent throughout their careers in terms of proposition and point of view:
- Hedi got his skinny twinks and MDMA rock&roll groupies
- Tom Ford got his glamazon sexy femme fatale
- Karl got his flamboyant at Fendi and classics with a twist at CHANEL
- Armani is the classiest of classy
...yet Nicholas is the only one whom you can clearly see the design switch from Kering house to LVMH

 

[PDFSD]

I often think that Balenciaga mid 2000's collections were not designed by Ghesquiere but by some ghost designer, cause there is no way the designer behind the stellar collections of SS06, FW07 and FW08 (just to name few) is the same who's been milking the same 80's scifi extravaganza at Louis Vuitton for almost a decade now.
Most designers are actually pretty consistent throughout their careers in terms of proposition and point of view:
- Hedi got his skinny twinks and MDMA rock&roll groupies
- Tom Ford got his glamazon sexy femme fatale
- Karl got his flamboyant at Fendi and classics with a twist at CHANEL
- Armani is the classiest of classy
...yet Nicholas is the only one whom you can clearly see the design switch from Kering house to LVMH

yet i agree but the later balenciaga collections already started the more playful more more cartoonish sci fi side of Ghesquiere as he got more corporate at the brand having more stores etc ...he simply became much more pop and never went back....

honestly i think wealth brought out much more of his pop side and being a huge corporate brand like LV you start to cater to what everyone can kind of understand even if its very ugly still but as long as its optimistic looking its approved by the suits & general public

his early work was more dark horror sci fi and chic because it left out trying to please or speak to mass taste or understanding.

at his worst he is still one of the best but not doing his best work at LV i agree, some of the e com looks toned down have more of the early NG vibe but its very few looks each season and nobody sees them in the sea of merch and bags.

i gave up looking at his work more closely i have to say i just look at the whole company in general i find NG lacks cultural connection to be able to do something truly pop but also intellectual cool at the same time ...kind of what prada is balancing now more successfully with its two brands

i feel nobody really cares about his work at LV even if products sell its because its a new LV bag acc etc but its not because it's NG

 

[Lola701]

I actually beg to differ because there’s a clear difference between Hedi’s work in the late 90’s, early 00’s and what his style has become from FW2005 Dior Homme. That’s where his work became synonymous with a certain idea of Rock and Roll.
When Hedi started we all knew that he was a French touch guy. Yes we heard about Bowie and all but it was elusive until he started to make « Rock » collections.

Karl also had very different period in his work for Chanel and Fendi. You can recognize his style through his cut but essentially it’s really rare that someone who likes Chanel from 1995 enjoy as much Chanel from 1998.

I don’t think Nicolas has reached yet that stage of his career where it’s about legacy. But essentially, someone who knows his style can recognize his clothes…Even when he does volumes.

Maybe he will go back to the essence of his style but I doubt it will be at Vuitton.
The stuff is there in the stores for those who cares but It’s clearly not his intention in terms of fashion proposition.

And I will continue to defend his vision. If commercial success can afford you to play, do whatever and piss people off then go off.
And I agree with @PDFSD people care about his Vuitton, not his work. I mean, the products are working. The glory is there.

I mean people are praising Marc Jacobs’s Vuitton and are incapable of supporting his own brand lol.

 

[tricotineacetat]

I think it’s totally possible but then it’s almost like two different exercises because for me, Redcarpet fashion is totally detached from « fashion ».
So I don’t know what I should expect from that. They have dedicated teams for those special projects at every houses. And sometimes, the looks aren’t really connected to what was shown on the runway but are kind of in-line with the vision of the designer.

Am I supposed to base my appreciation for his work on customs looks made by the team inspired by his work in collaboration with the stylist?

It’s the same for people wearing Head to toe, styled like what MAS did for the show but replicated by their celebrity stylists and credited to their celebrity stylists.

If you want to make someone looks good, you mix and match. The purpose of the runway look isn’t always to send a good look.

And btw, I don’t find the the lantern dress horrible. I think it’s an unfortunately length.
It could have been less extreme in volumes too but I’m not sure the effect would have been the same.
The actress is pulling that off with a great aplomb.

That detachment to have a red carpet line (much like Gucci Premiere or the sequinned custom dresses Celine is doing) is precisely the kind of strategy I hate because it doesn‘t seem like it falls in line with Nicolas' vision of dressing. It doesn't feel like it's something would design, other than by obligation.

In all the years of his career, he has never really done red carpet dressing in any of his shows, both at Vuitton and Balenciaga - The looks we‘d see at the MET gala or other places were then usually some of the runway looks, emphasizing that his woman would rather wear something a bit more edgy and downtown (His muses would wear mostly short dresses or separates) - By comparison we have somebody like Olivier who really loves the big couture, ceremonial gesture and the very essence of his work is about that formalism, which is why when we see it on the red carpet, you can tell he‘s really in it, heart and soul.

I understand why a house like Vuitton needs to have a proposal to outfit celebrities for such ocassions, but it feels like a half-***ed thing that looks, indeed, like something he has little involvement in and therefor didn‘t manage to figure out how to integrate into his vision.

I believe he‘s in a lofty position to put whatever he wants on celebrities that want to wear Vuitton because as you already mentioned, it‘s less about how it looks than what strategic partnership it brings (a pity it has come to this…). So why not at least do something that feels in line with his aesthetics?

 

[THD96]

Me personally, I love the way Lous and the Yakuza and my all time favorite Brune de Buonomamo wears Nicolas clothes. One is an ambassador and the other is one of his friend (and the sister of his longtime assistant). They wears it because it’s their style. But it’s not a Redcarpet situation.

And Florent also looks great in Nicolas clothes, seeing him just make me wish Nicolas would actually do menswear, It would be a dream come true. But I know business is business.

I think it’s totally possible but then it’s almost like two different exercises because for me, Redcarpet fashion is totally detached from « fashion ».

Yes, that’s is why this trend of celebrities only used their personal stylists for everything (magazine, campaign, etc…) irritates me so much, like we don’t want to see your boring carefully curated images splattered every single project.

And whole heartedly agree about the mix and match, you can’t call yourself a style icon and wear a full look straight out the runway. You have to STYLE it.

 

[Lola701]

That detachment to have a red carpet line (much like Gucci Premiere or the sequinned custom dresses Celine is doing) is precisely the kind of strategy I hate because it doesn‘t seem like it falls in line with Nicolas' vision of dressing. It doesn't feel like it's something would design, other than by obligation.

In all the years of his career, he has never really done red carpet dressing in any of his shows, both at Vuitton and Balenciaga - The looks we‘d see at the MET gala or other places were then usually some of the runway looks, emphasizing that his woman would rather wear something a bit more edgy and downtown (His muses would wear mostly short dresses or separates) - By comparison we have somebody like Olivier who really loves the big couture, ceremonial gesture and the very essence of his work is about that formalism, which is why when we see it on the red carpet, you can tell he‘s really in it, heart and soul.

I understand why a house like Vuitton needs to have a proposal to outfit celebrities for such ocassions, but it feels like a half-***ed thing that looks, indeed, like something he has little involvement in and therefor didn‘t manage to figure out how to integrate into his vision.

I believe he‘s in a lofty position to put whatever he wants on celebrities that want to wear Vuitton because as you already mentioned, it‘s less about how it looks than what strategic partnership it brings (a pity it has come to this…). So why not at least do something that feels in line with his aesthetics?

No actually, they have a eveningwear collection that is sold in stores and is about alterations of runway pieces. I have seen some dresses worn by Lea Seydoux and Cate Blanchett in stores for example (they are generally displayed in the VIP salons).

Then they have this, which is pure PR/Redcarpet dressing and about PR. That is what Gucci Premiere did indeed. More of a service than pure fashion.

That’s why I think Redcarpet is not a clear point to judge anything about his work for Vuitton. Vuitton is not a Couture house so the intention behind this kind of things isn’t the same.

This is advertising budgets.

 

[PDFSD]

That detachment to have a red carpet line (much like Gucci Premiere or the sequinned custom dresses Celine is doing) is precisely the kind of strategy I hate because it doesn‘t seem like it falls in line with Nicolas' vision of dressing. It doesn't feel like it's something would design, other than by obligation.

In all the years of his career, he has never really done red carpet dressing in any of his shows, both at Vuitton and Balenciaga - The looks we‘d see at the MET gala or other places were then usually some of the runway looks, emphasizing that his woman would rather wear something a bit more edgy and downtown (His muses would wear mostly short dresses or separates) - By comparison we have somebody like Olivier who really loves the big couture, ceremonial gesture and the very essence of his work is about that formalism, which is why when we see it on the red carpet, you can tell he‘s really in it, heart and soul.

I understand why a house like Vuitton needs to have a proposal to outfit celebrities for such ocassions, but it feels like a half-***ed thing that looks, indeed, like something he has little involvement in and therefor didn‘t manage to figure out how to integrate into his vision.

I believe he‘s in a lofty position to put whatever he wants on celebrities that want to wear Vuitton because as you already mentioned, it‘s less about how it looks than what strategic partnership it brings (a pity it has come to this…). So why not at least do something that feels in line with his aesthetics?

but pls dont forget celebrities often don't want certain cuts or styles and stylist also has a lot of input and power unless its a ambassador but basically for them being a actor or singer artist comes first and lucky if that match or get enhanced intro by the look or brand collaboration for that night.

and i tink VIP /red carpet teams are often more realistic even if dreamy about red gowns and evening wear it's like forcing a creative director to put his or her vision on baby clothes not all designers have a feeling for it so it makes sense to have a dedicated team to home wear and vip and kids and lifestyle objects etc and have it creative director visonimpletemted some more some less depending of brands floppy or establish authority in each category

this lantern dress comes nonetheless from NG current design ideas how much we like or hate it it's in his fault even if the team did it lol

 

[Lola701]

^^
Yes indeed designers generally hates RC because of it politics. I know designers established in Paris are not very fan of it. They are willing to do the work for people they likes but in general, not.

In Italy, they understand the business value behind it and are more than welcome to accommodate. That trend of having dedicated teams for that came from Italy.

Someone like Karl has always confessed his hate for Redcarpet dressing despite doing eveningwear all the time. I remember however that he did Diane Kruger’s entire wardrobe when she was at Cannes.

But at a house like Chanel, there was not any type of dedicated team. People wore clothes from the collections or Karl designed a special outfit.

And it was also the case at Balenciaga under NG. None of the special looks he designed either for Charlotte, Jennifer or even the red dress for Kidman were ever available to purchase.

But I hope that the red dress will have the effect the stylist expect from it.

Is Danielle an ambassador/ friend of the house yet? She may probably get an invite at the next show.
When Nicolas started to dress Da’vine, she got an invite.

If I had 1 critic to do to the Vuitton people is the fact that they seems inconsistent in terms of the type of clothes they makes. Sometimes it looks unrelated to what NG is doing. And also, they dress everybody (both men and womenswear). Matter of fact, I don’t think Pharrell is even involved on that side of his work.

 

[Nimsay]

Hedi DH has nothing to do with SLP or Celine. Hedi hasn't done a skinny jean like DH in 20 years…