Nicolas Ghesquière - Designer, Creative Director of Louis Vuitton

[tricotineacetat]

I get the disappointment part lol.
I don’t know, maybe I don’t see the big deal about it because I interned in fashion when I was very young so I understood quite early that the creative process wasn’t linear. That it wasn’t only of waking up and drawing. There are looks that were literally copies of a movie on the runway. But it made sense in terms of context and for the house.

That being said, I had somewhat of the same when I discovered that Azzedine’s repertoire was in fact based on costumes from movies. He talked about Arlettie a lot but when I saw her movies and realized that his whole signature was based on that, I was stunted. Then when discovering Adrian, it became even more obvious.

But it eventually allowed me to expand my culture. And the copies are never « gratuites ». Because between the copies, there are original ideas and also innovations.

And I must admit that sometimes I enjoy some copies. When Nicolas is copying Gianni for example. Or when he copies Gaultier for obvious reasons.

All the designers and even our favorites copies but I think I our judgement comes from how and who do they copy.

On that I though it was maybe a bit unfair for Mugler to call out Rousteing years ago. Olivier is a fan. Ok, he could have been more subtle about it but Balenciaga and Dior could have called out Mugler for copying them…Even though beyond his copies, he also had original ideas.

If we follow that thought, wouldn’t it then be fair to be a bit less hard on a designer like Hedi Slimane when other designers are doing a similar job by putting images of pop cultural icons such as Francoise Hardy, Jane Birkin or Edie Sedgewick on their moodboards?

Even a designer like Helmut Lang has to a large degree issued designs that were largely copies of utilitarian garments from workwear or the military, yet I don’t see it’s lessened his esteem in fashion history, quite the opposite, in fact.

 

[tourbillions]

I do wanna know the creative process behind sending copies or actual looks in his archives in the runway. There must be some reason, he is not dumb to think that at his level people will not figure it out.

there are many artists who love to incorporate the creative process in the final looks/collection. Its a whole research/exploration of how a look can go from that movie costume to something we can wear everyday.

Even people in music sample each others songs.

 

[PDFSD]

i missed these as well while uploading
the two movies are from mentions of previous interviews i believe of his fav movies so its more an assumption of mix for that black dress

 

[tricotineacetat]

I do wanna know the creative process behind sending copies or actual looks in his archives in the runway. There must be some reason, he is not dumb to think that at his level people will not figure it out.

there are many artists who love to incorporate the creative process in the final looks/collection. Its a whole research/exploration of how a look can go from that movie costume to something we can wear everyday.

Even people in music sample each others songs.

I would be more comfortable with it if it lead to a clear message or exploration of something - And maybe I’m more inclined to accept it in Nicolas' previous work at Balenciaga, because in a way, those shows offered a very precise narrative - Something that doesn’t tie up with as much cohesion at Vuitton.

More than anything, I would like to see a collection from him that gives me a clear message, an exploration of something, a silhouette, a kind of construction or way of working with specific fabrics. You get a bit of everything from a Vuitton show nowadays and you already know the majority of it won’t even hit the stores… So what’s the point?

 

[Monsieur Cristobal]

The fine line between plagiarizing and paying tribute, the post-duchampian gesture of decontextualizing a piece, the pop irony... super interesting.


How about explaining all this to LVMH when they want to pursue the forgers of fake Vuitton bags?

You can give it as much thought as you want, in the end of the day copying is copying.

 

[tricotineacetat]

Another thing I find a missed opportunity with Vuitton womenswear’s many shows is that all of them show a high percentage of pieces that are either made-to-order or will not make it into the stores without commercial adjustments to make them more marketable.

I would find it smarter if they would make maybe one that is really 'haute couture in everything but name', another one that addresses a wardrobe but that is also a straightforward RTW collection and maybe another with another purpose.

Instead, you see all these many shows in relatively short intervals, all with a huge spectacle production, where it could perhaps be more interesting to offer a variety of experiences… maybe something a little bit more intimate for once would be a nice change and offer Nicolas an opportunity to conceive his designs differently.

 

[PDFSD]

Another thing I find a missed opportunity with Vuitton womenswear’s many shows is that all of them show a high percentage of pieces that are either made-to-order or will not make it into the stores without commercial adjustments to make them more marketable.

I would find it smarter if they would make maybe one that is really 'haute couture in everything but name', another one that addresses a wardrobe but that is also a straightforward RTW collection and maybe another with another purpose.

Instead, you see all these many shows in relatively short intervals, all with a huge spectacle production, where it could perhaps be more interesting to offer a variety of experiences… maybe something a little bit more intimate for once would be a nice change and offer Nicolas an opportunity to conceive his designs differently.

a bit what KL did with chanel cruise versus pre fall being metier d'art rtw with more couture level notes and then fashion shows and HC at the top they also have the coco beach and neige capsules lol

but i love the idea to make it even more strict/ clear distinction of experiences of level of a house´s output

 

[Lola701]

If we follow that thought, wouldn’t it then be fair to be a bit less hard on a designer like Hedi Slimane when other designers are doing a similar job by putting images of pop cultural icons such as Francoise Hardy, Jane Birkin or Edie Sedgewick on their moodboards?

Even a designer like Helmut Lang has to a large degree issued designs that were largely copies of utilitarian garments from workwear or the military, yet I don’t see it’s lessened his esteem in fashion history, quite the opposite, in fact.

Im hard on Hedi as a womenswear designer because the promise (and maybe we gassed ourselves up for years) was terribly disappointed when it materialized.

If you look at my criticism, it’s always directed to him as a womenswear designer. I love his menswear. I love his presentations but i will always be disappointed by him as a womenswear designer.

I don’t love his clothes. I expect more from him in that department. But that has nothing to do with the fact that he copies.

But I can also accept that I have too much of biais on designers I love. Double standards exists. But then, if we go again on the Hedi/Nicolas thing: Nicolas will copy Jane Birkin without having models looking like Jane Birkin for a whole collection…

And I have always found him more imaginative and bold with menswear. Copies or not.

 

[Lola701]

Another thing I find a missed opportunity with Vuitton womenswear’s many shows is that all of them show a high percentage of pieces that are either made-to-order or will not make it into the stores without commercial adjustments to make them more marketable.

I would find it smarter if they would make maybe one that is really 'haute couture in everything but name', another one that addresses a wardrobe but that is also a straightforward RTW collection and maybe another with another purpose.

Instead, you see all these many shows in relatively short intervals, all with a huge spectacle production, where it could perhaps be more interesting to offer a variety of experiences… maybe something a little bit more intimate for once would be a nice change and offer Nicolas an opportunity to conceive his designs differently.

But some stores do get the clothes without adjustment.
The issue is maybe geography and spending power. Let’s be honest, Parisians for example are very conservative in their buying.

Ok they could have the pieces on display but the reality is that the big clients for fashion are in Asia.

In essence, it’s what they are already doing. Separating the lines. From the merch stuff to the runway stuff.

But maybe what they should have done is have that kind of supremacy at the flagship store.
Chanel under Karl made commercial version of the Metiers d’Arts for example. But you would likely find the most exclusive pieces at Cambon because Cambon is also the home of HC,

 

[jeanclaude]

i missed these as well while uploading
the two movies are from mentions of previous interviews i believe of his fav movies so its more an assumption of mix for that black dress

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Love all your images displaying the original sources, thank you for sharing...where did you get them from?? Is it from your personal collection; or from a web focused on this topic??

 

[tourbillions]

Love all your images displaying the original sources, thank you for sharing...where did you get them from?? Is it from your personal collection; or from a web focused on this topic??

why i think he has a whole board of copies at home studying everyyones copying 😆😆

Even if it is not direct copy it is nice to see which part of history or arts or costumes these clothes are coming from

 

[PDFSD]

Love all your images displaying the original sources, thank you for sharing...where did you get them from?? Is it from your personal collection; or from a web focused on this topic??

mine i posted it years ago in other forum not here.... when i was more nerdy :-)

 

[PDFSD]

why i think he has a whole board of copies at home studying everyone's copying 😆😆

Even if it is not direct copy it is nice to see which part of history or arts or costumes these clothes are coming from

its not so hard when your neurodivergent to remember details :-)

 

[Phuel]

Everyone is making interesting points, and critiquing him in such a generous, giving and flattering manner that he frankly doesn’t deserve— except for the always reliably cynical Jean Claude of course LOL

Personal tastes and preference aside— and he will never be in the same league as the Holy Trinity immortals Gaultier/McQueen/Galliano— nor on the level of Greats Tom Ford/Helmut Lang/Miuccia Prada as far as I’m concerned. But he is admittedly solid, even very good at one point in his Balenciaga days. The problem I have with his Vuitton comes down to his collections on the runway gets so hilariously and offensively diluted by the corporate process that only about 5% of his runway vision makes it to retail, even on the brand’s online shop. And 5% is being overly generous. That’s such a lazy way of designing; when he knows that he can do whatever he likes and wants, with not a concern for an actual customer since the overwhelming majority of these runway designs are just relegated to the poptarts and total looks for the cover of fashion rags-- and he still churns out such first-draft one-off costumes to boot, he really isn’t all that. Tim Blanks once made a sharp observation towards the end of Galliano’s Dior bloated clutter, and observed that all the rich desserts he had been indulging in had lead to indigestion. And that’s exactly so fitting of Ghesquiere at this point in his career. He’s just a glorified costume designer at this point-- if I’m being generous.

 

[PDFSD]

Everyone is making interesting points, and critiquing him in such a generous, giving and flattering manner that he frankly doesn’t deserve— except for the always reliably cynical Jean Claude of course LOL

Personal tastes and preference aside— and he will never be in the same league as the Holy Trinity immortals Gaultier/McQueen/Galliano— nor on the level of Greats Tom Ford/Helmut Lang/Miuccia Prada as far as I’m concerned. But he is admittedly solid, even very good at one point in his Balenciaga days. The problem I have with his Vuitton comes down to his collections on the runway gets so hilariously and offensively diluted by the corporate process that only about 5% of his runway vision makes it to retail, even on the brand’s online shop. And 5% is being overly generous. That’s such a lazy way of designing; when he knows that he can do whatever he likes and wants, with not a concern for an actual customer since the overwhelming majority of these runway designs are just relegated to the poptarts and total looks for the cover of fashion rags-- and he still churns out such first-draft one-off costumes to boot, he really isn’t all that. Tim Blanks once made a sharp observation towards the end of Galliano’s Dior bloated clutter, and observed that all the rich desserts he had been indulging in had lead to indigestion. And that’s exactly so fitting of Ghesquiere at this point in his career. He’s just a glorified costume designer at this point-- if I’m being generous.

great point on his LV and i agree why i could enjoy hedi or muccia more than his work at the moment as the reality of his clothes are not real and its lazy and ego design when most people just get a watered down wine version of what you do.

there is no restrain and challenge, 2 days ago is spoke with a friend that worked with him for some years at balenciaga directly and this person was also not impressed with his current ways at LV and spoke of it as clownish design i agree.

i think what Lola mentioned on Hedi i have for NG he should do better and meet the reality of his designs on the human body because looking at the celebs at the show non looked good or great it's just very awkward and honesty ugly the amount of clashing cheap prints meets over design makes me want to wear the most basic thing if i was a woman.

for me his balenciaga does belong with the greats he has been influential as f.... that time.

his woman's LV has become as tacky as people like Pharrell to be for his male version of LV, that to me at least has a realty of type of men wearing it even if it's not my thing.

he spoke at the start to want to build new timeless pieces for LV wardrobe i don't see it any more for some years now .