The Sunday Times
Focus: The new face of Britain
This model helps to sell more underwear to the British than any other. But there’s more to her than meets the eye. Giles Hattersley and Vanessa Jolly report
Up and down the land, the same mystery woman stands 10ft tall on billboards, peeks out from shop windows, poses in catalogues and dances provocatively on television screens in a bestselling set of Marks & Spencer underwear.
She is obviously doing something right: last week M&S announced that it had doubled predicted sales growth, that its shares are at their highest for eight years and that staff would be sharing a £70m bonus.
As if helping to transform the fortunes of one high street giant was not enough, the same model is also on page after page of the current Next Directory, meaning that for millions of Britons she is more of a national icon than Kate Moss.
She is the face — and body — of Britain in 2006 and, unnamed and generally unknown, begs the questions: who is she and what makes her the choice as everywoman for modern Britain?
Apart from the perfect figure and sculpted features, Noémie Lenoir, 26, embodies the cosmopolitan nature of Britain in a way that is not immediately obvious. One attribute is that she, like 4.6m other Brits in the last census, is of multicultural descent. Like 27% of parents she is also a single mother. She even has an on/off relationship with the Chelsea star Claude Makelele, making her a thoroughly Brit chav princess.
Behind all that lies an even more telling fact: she is not British at all. Ask Lenoir what a chav is and she replies: “I’ve really no idea.” Who is David Cameron? “I’ve heard the name. I think he’s a politician.” Have you ever eaten Marmite? “No.”
Lenoir has a good excuse for being baffled. It turns out that the new face of Britain is actually French. Like thousands of migrant workers from her homeland she is discovering that Britain is a hot destination for the young, talented and career-hungry of old Europe frustrated with the sclerotic labour laws of their home countries.
While we Brits may moan about our lot, the migrants from Italy, Germany and France put things in a proper perspective: many, such as Lenoir, are escaping here attracted by the promise of an easy job.
France is suffering the biggest exodus since its revolution in 1789 and the number of its countrymen registered as living in Britain has more than doubled from 44,000 in 1993 to 91,630 in 2005. The real figure is believed to be well over twice this, however, as most expatriates do not register with the consulate. This means that the French are fourth on the list of expatriates sending money earned in the UK back home to their families, with only India, China and Mexico ahead of them.
The Italians are looking on in envy, too. Last week Italy was in political turmoil after its general election ended in a wafer-thin victory for Romano Prodi, the centre-left challenger, over Silvio Berlusconi, the flamboyant business tycoon. With rising taxes, stagnant wages and an uncertain political future, many young Italians have also been seeking a better life in the UK.
Even in Germany, once the continent’s economic powerhouse, a similar problem has emerged. With unemployment standing at 12%, twice that of the UK, Christian Schmitz, a web designer from Ulm who moved to Britain 10 years ago to study, is no longer tempted to return.
“I have many friends in Berlin who are having difficulty finding work,” he said, “and others are scared of losing their jobs in case they don’t find another one.” Crippling labour costs in Germany stifle business, he believes.
Véronique Thabault, a 40- year-old bookshop owner who moved here from Paris seven years ago, said: “It is much more difficult to find work in France than Britain, even if you have good qualifications. There is more flexibility in Britain, and once you get a job there are better prospects for climbing the ladder.”
In her home country police recently took to the streets with truncheons and tear-gas to disperse students rioting over labour reforms. In France — as in Italy and Germany — businesses are required to pay enormous taxes.
To provide someone with a salary of about £15,000 a year, for example, a French business must pay out about £30,000. Government laws make it difficult to sack someone and as most French workers clock off after a 35-hour week, there is little incentive to hire them in the first place. It is no accident that one of last year’s biggest bestsellers in France was Bonjour Paresse — Hello Laziness — a book about how to do as little as possible in the office.
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Marc Roche is the London-based correspondent for Le Monde and has lived in Britain for 20 years. He says that the new wave of French immigrants falls into three categories: the skilled young who want to learn finance and English; the unskilled young, mostly from areas with traditional links to Britain such as Brittany, Bordeaux and around the Channel tunnel; and second-generation immigrants to France who seek a better life in the racial diversity of Britain.
They are for the most part, Roche says, “the type of people a country would least like to lose”.
WILL there be a French arrondissement in London to rival the ethnic communities of Brick Lane or Chinatown? “One exists already near the Lycée Français in South Kensington, but the community has become so big that it is now all over the place. They don’t like to stick together, they speak English and integrate well,” Roche said.
Unsurprising really as the young French people who come here are most often educated, highly skilled professionals who work in the thriving British financial centre.
“They are attracted by the flexibility of the labour market here,” said Roche. “With the strikes and unemployment riots at home, and the victory of English as the language of business, there is a continuous feeling that while the employment situation in France isn’t getting better, if you have a job in Britain life is good.”
It would seem this way for other nations, too. “If I had stayed in Italy after school I would have been lucky to get a job and would have lived at home with my parents,” said Andrea Riso, a 21-year-old from Puglia. “When I arrived in London three years ago I was worried, but I found a job in 10 days in a pizza restaurant. A month later I got a job as manager of a coffee shop. When I was handed the keys by the boss, I couldn’t believe it. It never would have happened in Italy.”
Stefan Sell is another who found Britain not the sick but the dynamic man of Europe. He moved here 10 years ago from Germany, lives in north London with his English girlfriend and is IT manager for the Four Seasons hotel on Park Lane. “Germany’s problems started when the wall came down,” he said. “Before that taxes were 30%, now they’re 50%, so what else can you do?”
Vladimir Cordier is a 30- year-old economist who left his native Normandy eight years ago when he realised that the best career he could hope for was “working as a cashier at the hypermarket”. He recently published a “survival guide” for other Frenchmen thinking of moving to Britain called Enfin un Boulot! — Finally a Job!
The first print run has sold out. “You’d be amazed at the number of e-mails I receive from people asking for advice,” he said.
THE big advantage of a career in Britain, believes Cordier, is the ability to move between jobs. He has had six since he arrived, from telesales to consultancy, and now earns between £40,000 and £50,000 a year. In mainland Europe he says that your degree defines your working life: “Back home, one of your first questions to a new friend or colleague is what school they went to and what degree they have. In the UK, all they want to know is my previous clients. It’s so great for French people that here they can turn a politics degree into, say, a career in human resources.”
This flexibility is something that the British take for granted, says Professor Iain Begg of the European Institute at the London School of Economics. “We’ve all been in the situation, or know someone who has, of going for a drink in a wine bar and coming out with a job,” he said.
It is not all cider and roses for foreign visitors, of course. The French, in particular, get a rude awakening with British working weeks devoid of three-hour lunches and half-day Wednesdays. “It can be tough for them here,” said Roche.
Even worse, say the Germans, Italians and French alike, is the state of our public services. “I have lived here for seven years and I have never been to a doctor or hospital,” said Thabault. “I would not risk it. I go back to France for check-ups.”
“As for transport,” said Sell, “in Germany if a timetable says a bus will be there at 9.20am, that’s when it will be there. It’s not like that here.”
For Diane Konate, who came from France and is now a PA at a language school in Kilburn, north London, house prices are the biggest downside. “One of my friends just bought a one-bed flat in Paris for €50,000 (£34,600). Could you ever dream of that in London?” she said. However, those drawbacks are still not enough to deter the hopeful, certainly while the French, Italians and Germans fail to confront their own economic malaise. Like Lenoir, they find Britain a magnet. “Lots of my friends from France are working in the UK,” she said. Who would dare to underestimate their contribution or influence? Lenoir, for example, can claim to have sold more underwear to the British than any other woman in the country.