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Novak by McQueen
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klow-chloe'
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NAP will have that dress soon...me too love it 
masquerade
God Save McQueen
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does anyone know if these bags are going to be available online?
klow-chloe'
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taitai - the brown one must be the medium. The one modle was carrying in the pic must be the large one. It looks bigger and has a shorter handles.
i'm loving the brown, red, AND green! these bags are really growing on me more and more... sometimes i'm a little hesitant about 'deep' bags, but i love the hitchcock heroine inspiration and from seeing that runway picture with that dress, couldn't help but fall in love with it
(Here's a great article on McQueen's inspiration for the Novak bag from WWD
I'm glad he is thinking of positioning the Novak as a future classic!)
---------------------------------------
THE SAC RACE - THE COMPETITION TO CREATE AN ICONIC BAG IS ONE OF THE MOST HOTLY CONTESTED IN FASHION. IN PARIS, ALEXANDER MCQUEEN IS ENTERING IT WITH HIS FIRST COMPLETE ACCESSORIES COLLECTION, AND CELINE IS DOING SO WITH BAGS INSPIRED BY THREE STYLISH WOMEN. MEANWHILE, IN LYON, THE MARCHE DE LA MODE SALE OFFERED TEMPTATIONS APLENTY FOR THOSE WHO SEEK THE VINTAGE VERSIONS.
WWD
THE ALEXANDER METHOD
PARIS -- The Alexander McQueen woman -- as seen on the runway, at least -- storms fearlessly through the world, unfazed by pools of water, rings of fire or snarling wolves.
So what might such a lady carry in her purse?
The designer laughed at the question. "It depends what she does," he said. "I like the idea of a small pocket gun, if she was a secret agent."
To be sure, McQueen's new signature Novak bag -- inspired by actress Kim Novak, whose best-known film is Alfred Hitchcock's 1958 "Vertigo" -- has an air of lethal chic with its "Alien"-esque anatomy and a look that is at once retro and futuristic. "There is a kind of strength and a bit of aggression in it; it's almost like a cage," the designer said in an exclusive interview about the project. "It does strengthen a woman's appearance."
And McQueen hopes it will do the same for his business, which is gunning for profitability by 2007, a deadline set by parent Gucci Group for its three emerging brands, which also include Stella McCartney and Balenciaga. Still, McQueen bristled at the suggestion that his accessories push and fall collection praised for its wearability, were the products of a top-down directive that was obeyed. "Tell me what to do and I'm likely to do the opposite," he said. "I just think [the collection] was relevant to today. It was more about the construction and the silhouette than excess detailing."
Yet developing an identifiable, long-running handbag for the house, as Nicolas Ghesquiere did for Balenciaga with his hit Lariat style, is clearly a driving ambition for McQueen. "My concept is longevity, like the [Hermes] Kelly bag or Chanel No.5," he explained. "For me, [the Novak] is a McQueen classic. It has a personality of its own."
The designer sought to express that personality via the shape, hardware, materials and details -- not by splashing his logo across it. "When the Kelly bag was designed, it didn't have Hermes written all over it," he said. "Sometimes you have to rely on the design itself, not the name that's on it."
The Novak comes in a range of sizes, colors and materials and will retail from about $1,100 for a small leather version to $13,270 for a medium-sized crocodile number. McQueen has produced handbags in the past, and occasionally featured some on the runway, as he did with his "pirate" collection for spring 2003. "They sold quite well," he noted. But fall 2005 represents the first complete collection -- spanning everything from handy totes to delicately beaded evening clutches -- and commercial push. His footwear collection -- now manufactured by Sergio Rossi, another Gucci Group property -- has been similarly broadened and offers everything from rough-and-tumble boots to delicately jeweled satin evening pumps. Jonathan Akeroyd, McQueen's new chief executive officer, said the goal is to build handbags and footwear to represent about 30 percent of the house's turnover in three years. At present, the category represents about 15 percent of sales.
Besides the Novak, a knitted handbag with a Navajo print and pom-pom decoration is another of the designer's favorites. It's an easy style he envisions worn casually; "something you chuck your keys into. It's fun, and it looks cute with jeans."
McQueen acknowledges he faces a great deal of competition entering the handbag arena, given that practically every major fashion brand has made leather goods a key expansion tactic since the luxury boom of the late Nineties. Still, he insists "the customer is always looking for something new."
It might come as a surprise to hear the designer -- who has shown women muzzled, harnessed and occasionally hobbled -- talking about the importance of matching your handbag with your shoes. But that's exactly what he did in discussing the Novak, saying the version in crocodile practically cries out for matching crocodile slingbacks. "It's a classic concept, devised by Chanel, devised by Jean Patou, devised by Hardy Amies in the Forties," McQueen said. "It's elegance that makes the woman."
To build buzz around his accessories foray, McQueen plans to dispatch Novak bags to 50 key editors and celebrities in June. Meanwhile, the designer said he's confident that his 11-year-old fashion house is on track to reach the profitability goal set by Gucci Group, which acquired a 51 percent stake in 2000. He noted that sales of the fall collection were up 33 percent versus a year ago and met budget targets. "And the shops are doing very well," he added, noting that the McQueen flagship in London hauled in 50,000 pounds, or about $94,200, on a recent Saturday. "Not bad for one day," he quipped.
Moreover, McQueen emphasized that he takes a long-term view to the development of his brand, and said that he has no regrets to date. "It's going at the pace I've always wanted," he said. "It was never about being a flash in the pan." While the early years of his fashion career were about promoting McQueen's name via some of the most spectacular fashion shows of modern times, he considers that the business is entering a new phase.
"All there is to do now is please the customer all the time, and deliver on time," he said. "That's the secret of a successful brand, but that takes time. And if all else fails, I can always become a nurse." Then he burst out laughing at his own sally.
-- Miles Socha
CELINE: THREE'S COMPANY
PARIS -- Plenty of designer handbags are named after celebrities who may do little more than sling one on and smile for the paparazzi. Celine, however, took a different tack, selecting three more-chic-than-famous Parisian women -- an art photographer, a novelist and a curator -- to help fashion their ideal carryall. "It's not just endorsing, it's sharing," explained Celine chief executive officer Jean-Marc Loubier. "This has been several months of work."
Although Celine's artistic director Roberto Menichetti has received lackluster reviews for his clothing designs, accessories are roaring ahead, with sales more than doubling in the past four years. Leather goods currently account for about 45 percent of volume at the house, part of the LVMH Moet Hennessy Louis Vuitton luxury universe.
Conceived to help mark Celine's 60th anniversary, the Parisiennes bags are slated to arrive in stores in October, priced from 650 to 950 euros, or about $835 to $1,200 at current exchange rates. Loubier called it an "open project" and said that he hopes to enlist women in other major fashion capitals like New York, London and Tokyo, to put their stamp on bags employing Celine's Macadam logo. Function came to the fore with the current designs, as the women devised various bags of various dimensions with specific compartments to meet their needs.
Pamela Golbin: The 20th-century curator at the Museum of Fashion and Textiles at the Louvre, Golbin, 34, is not only a fashion plate of the highest order, but a frequent-flyer extraordinaire. To wit: Her customized Celine tote is big enough to hold files, phone, camera, makeup -- and three pairs of shoes, as well. Golbin devised multiple fixed pockets inside and removable pouches. There are some for coins of different currencies, and another that doubles as an evening clutch. "For me, this bag is the perfect all-in-one," she said. "And there's very little hardware to keep it light." But enticing looks were important, too. Golbin chose metallic-laced denim and salmon-toned leather trim.
Valerie Belin: A contemporary artist known for her striking large-scale photographs, Belin, 41, can't tote her life in a tiny Baguette. Her ideal handbag must accommodate her makeup, a bottle of water, cameras, a laptop, photos and more. But she said "elegance and good proportions" are as important as generous volume. To wit: her messenger-style "reporter" bag in supple suede boasts multiple internal and external compartments. She said it could also work for overnight trips, which is a good thing, because Belin is working on upcoming exhibitions in Amsterdam and Lausanne, Switzerland.
Clemence Boulouque: A novelist and literary critic, Boulouque, 27, is also a voracious reader. Naturally, her bag had to accommodate books, but via a discreet and practical zippered pocket at the base. "I wanted it to be like a library. It can hold up to four paperbacks. Or you can hide secret things -- if you lead a double life," she said with a laugh. Seriously, however, keeping everything neatly out of sight -- from pens to makeup -- was a big priority; hence, the two external pockets and a removable internal pouch. "It's a bag for everyday life," she said.
-- M.S.
GOLDEN OLDIES
LYON, France -- With the craze for all things vintage reaching a populist crescendo, France's retro enthusiasts are fleeing overpriced city markets in search of hidden treasures in the provinces. To wit: Last week's Marche de la Mode sale here attracted many Parisians, who pored over the offerings of the 200 local collectors and merchants hawking accessories, clothes and trimmings from the Fifties through the Eighties.
While the hunt for the bargain-priced Hermes Kelly remains an eternal mission, discerning bag hunters were also seeking distinctive, more affordable varieties. "Even though we've been overloaded with monogram designs, Celine's Seventies buckle bag is highly sought after," said one-named French vintage collector Anoushka, gleeful after bagging a Sixties Hermes Evelyn bag for a mere 160 euros ($205). "Certain Christian Dior monogram bags from the Seventies also have exceptional fabrics and finishes," she added.
Also on the prowl were French design duo Michele Mariot and Olivier Chatenet of E2. The pair, who customize vintage pieces, were searching for Charles Jourdan bags and shoes, Bonnie Cashin bags designed for Coach in the Seventies and Italian designer Roberta Di Camarino's velvet designs from the Fifties. "Di Camarino designed a stunning velvet bag in the shape of a small doctor bag that is supposed to have inspired Miuccia Prada," said Chatenet. "But beautiful models, particularly those produced in France and Italy, are becoming rarer and rarer."
While handbags were the main attraction, young clients also pounced on Panama hats customized with lace, Thirties-inspired bell hats in modern prints, Seventies shoes and elaborate Sixties plastic jewelry. The DIY trend for customized vintage meant that stands selling old ribbons, embroidered flowers, lace and buttons also did a booming business.
The regions of France, of course, offer not only local wines and cheeses, but specific traditional fabrics, too. These were sought by such shoppers as Nadege Cezette, a French knitwear designer. "We trawl the markets in France, as each region has its fabric specialty, like Vichy for its gingham or Chantilly for lace," she explained. "Young women like to be in charge of all of the elements, to mix the old and the new -- to create their own styles." Anoushka praised the Lyon market for the bargains and the unexpected mix. "You get this sense that they've been jovially preparing for it all year," she said.
Mark Ellis, owner of the London vintage boutique Palette, didn't make it to Lyon, but he confirmed that there's a growing demand for unusual Sixties and Seventies styles such as Margaret Smith's Sixties floral designs and jeweled fabric bags in muted shades. He predicted that glam Halston styles would be the must-have for this fall.
"Women are looking for something that is absolutely unique," said Ellis, recalling a pink knitted Crown Craft-style bag from the Fifties that recently sparked a duel between two customers. "They literally stood in the store and bid against each other until it had doubled in price from 200 to 400 pounds [$378 to $757]," he said.
Meanwhile, trendsetting stylist Katie Grand said that a "classy" used Hermes horsehair number would be her bag of choice. "A Kelly is a very particular bag to carry around," she said. "And, let's face it, you can buy a great car for the same price." Mid-Nineties nylon Prada bags also figure high on Grand's wish list, and a Sixties' Celine monogram bag is her notion of the zenith of vintage cool. "I love that idea of the Sixties' sporty look, but I don't actually own one yet," she said.
I'm glad he is thinking of positioning the Novak as a future classic!)
---------------------------------------
THE SAC RACE - THE COMPETITION TO CREATE AN ICONIC BAG IS ONE OF THE MOST HOTLY CONTESTED IN FASHION. IN PARIS, ALEXANDER MCQUEEN IS ENTERING IT WITH HIS FIRST COMPLETE ACCESSORIES COLLECTION, AND CELINE IS DOING SO WITH BAGS INSPIRED BY THREE STYLISH WOMEN. MEANWHILE, IN LYON, THE MARCHE DE LA MODE SALE OFFERED TEMPTATIONS APLENTY FOR THOSE WHO SEEK THE VINTAGE VERSIONS.
WWD
THE ALEXANDER METHOD
PARIS -- The Alexander McQueen woman -- as seen on the runway, at least -- storms fearlessly through the world, unfazed by pools of water, rings of fire or snarling wolves.
So what might such a lady carry in her purse?
The designer laughed at the question. "It depends what she does," he said. "I like the idea of a small pocket gun, if she was a secret agent."
To be sure, McQueen's new signature Novak bag -- inspired by actress Kim Novak, whose best-known film is Alfred Hitchcock's 1958 "Vertigo" -- has an air of lethal chic with its "Alien"-esque anatomy and a look that is at once retro and futuristic. "There is a kind of strength and a bit of aggression in it; it's almost like a cage," the designer said in an exclusive interview about the project. "It does strengthen a woman's appearance."
And McQueen hopes it will do the same for his business, which is gunning for profitability by 2007, a deadline set by parent Gucci Group for its three emerging brands, which also include Stella McCartney and Balenciaga. Still, McQueen bristled at the suggestion that his accessories push and fall collection praised for its wearability, were the products of a top-down directive that was obeyed. "Tell me what to do and I'm likely to do the opposite," he said. "I just think [the collection] was relevant to today. It was more about the construction and the silhouette than excess detailing."
Yet developing an identifiable, long-running handbag for the house, as Nicolas Ghesquiere did for Balenciaga with his hit Lariat style, is clearly a driving ambition for McQueen. "My concept is longevity, like the [Hermes] Kelly bag or Chanel No.5," he explained. "For me, [the Novak] is a McQueen classic. It has a personality of its own."
The designer sought to express that personality via the shape, hardware, materials and details -- not by splashing his logo across it. "When the Kelly bag was designed, it didn't have Hermes written all over it," he said. "Sometimes you have to rely on the design itself, not the name that's on it."
The Novak comes in a range of sizes, colors and materials and will retail from about $1,100 for a small leather version to $13,270 for a medium-sized crocodile number. McQueen has produced handbags in the past, and occasionally featured some on the runway, as he did with his "pirate" collection for spring 2003. "They sold quite well," he noted. But fall 2005 represents the first complete collection -- spanning everything from handy totes to delicately beaded evening clutches -- and commercial push. His footwear collection -- now manufactured by Sergio Rossi, another Gucci Group property -- has been similarly broadened and offers everything from rough-and-tumble boots to delicately jeweled satin evening pumps. Jonathan Akeroyd, McQueen's new chief executive officer, said the goal is to build handbags and footwear to represent about 30 percent of the house's turnover in three years. At present, the category represents about 15 percent of sales.
Besides the Novak, a knitted handbag with a Navajo print and pom-pom decoration is another of the designer's favorites. It's an easy style he envisions worn casually; "something you chuck your keys into. It's fun, and it looks cute with jeans."
McQueen acknowledges he faces a great deal of competition entering the handbag arena, given that practically every major fashion brand has made leather goods a key expansion tactic since the luxury boom of the late Nineties. Still, he insists "the customer is always looking for something new."
It might come as a surprise to hear the designer -- who has shown women muzzled, harnessed and occasionally hobbled -- talking about the importance of matching your handbag with your shoes. But that's exactly what he did in discussing the Novak, saying the version in crocodile practically cries out for matching crocodile slingbacks. "It's a classic concept, devised by Chanel, devised by Jean Patou, devised by Hardy Amies in the Forties," McQueen said. "It's elegance that makes the woman."
To build buzz around his accessories foray, McQueen plans to dispatch Novak bags to 50 key editors and celebrities in June. Meanwhile, the designer said he's confident that his 11-year-old fashion house is on track to reach the profitability goal set by Gucci Group, which acquired a 51 percent stake in 2000. He noted that sales of the fall collection were up 33 percent versus a year ago and met budget targets. "And the shops are doing very well," he added, noting that the McQueen flagship in London hauled in 50,000 pounds, or about $94,200, on a recent Saturday. "Not bad for one day," he quipped.
Moreover, McQueen emphasized that he takes a long-term view to the development of his brand, and said that he has no regrets to date. "It's going at the pace I've always wanted," he said. "It was never about being a flash in the pan." While the early years of his fashion career were about promoting McQueen's name via some of the most spectacular fashion shows of modern times, he considers that the business is entering a new phase.
"All there is to do now is please the customer all the time, and deliver on time," he said. "That's the secret of a successful brand, but that takes time. And if all else fails, I can always become a nurse." Then he burst out laughing at his own sally.
-- Miles Socha
CELINE: THREE'S COMPANY
PARIS -- Plenty of designer handbags are named after celebrities who may do little more than sling one on and smile for the paparazzi. Celine, however, took a different tack, selecting three more-chic-than-famous Parisian women -- an art photographer, a novelist and a curator -- to help fashion their ideal carryall. "It's not just endorsing, it's sharing," explained Celine chief executive officer Jean-Marc Loubier. "This has been several months of work."
Although Celine's artistic director Roberto Menichetti has received lackluster reviews for his clothing designs, accessories are roaring ahead, with sales more than doubling in the past four years. Leather goods currently account for about 45 percent of volume at the house, part of the LVMH Moet Hennessy Louis Vuitton luxury universe.
Conceived to help mark Celine's 60th anniversary, the Parisiennes bags are slated to arrive in stores in October, priced from 650 to 950 euros, or about $835 to $1,200 at current exchange rates. Loubier called it an "open project" and said that he hopes to enlist women in other major fashion capitals like New York, London and Tokyo, to put their stamp on bags employing Celine's Macadam logo. Function came to the fore with the current designs, as the women devised various bags of various dimensions with specific compartments to meet their needs.
Pamela Golbin: The 20th-century curator at the Museum of Fashion and Textiles at the Louvre, Golbin, 34, is not only a fashion plate of the highest order, but a frequent-flyer extraordinaire. To wit: Her customized Celine tote is big enough to hold files, phone, camera, makeup -- and three pairs of shoes, as well. Golbin devised multiple fixed pockets inside and removable pouches. There are some for coins of different currencies, and another that doubles as an evening clutch. "For me, this bag is the perfect all-in-one," she said. "And there's very little hardware to keep it light." But enticing looks were important, too. Golbin chose metallic-laced denim and salmon-toned leather trim.
Valerie Belin: A contemporary artist known for her striking large-scale photographs, Belin, 41, can't tote her life in a tiny Baguette. Her ideal handbag must accommodate her makeup, a bottle of water, cameras, a laptop, photos and more. But she said "elegance and good proportions" are as important as generous volume. To wit: her messenger-style "reporter" bag in supple suede boasts multiple internal and external compartments. She said it could also work for overnight trips, which is a good thing, because Belin is working on upcoming exhibitions in Amsterdam and Lausanne, Switzerland.
Clemence Boulouque: A novelist and literary critic, Boulouque, 27, is also a voracious reader. Naturally, her bag had to accommodate books, but via a discreet and practical zippered pocket at the base. "I wanted it to be like a library. It can hold up to four paperbacks. Or you can hide secret things -- if you lead a double life," she said with a laugh. Seriously, however, keeping everything neatly out of sight -- from pens to makeup -- was a big priority; hence, the two external pockets and a removable internal pouch. "It's a bag for everyday life," she said.
-- M.S.
GOLDEN OLDIES
LYON, France -- With the craze for all things vintage reaching a populist crescendo, France's retro enthusiasts are fleeing overpriced city markets in search of hidden treasures in the provinces. To wit: Last week's Marche de la Mode sale here attracted many Parisians, who pored over the offerings of the 200 local collectors and merchants hawking accessories, clothes and trimmings from the Fifties through the Eighties.
While the hunt for the bargain-priced Hermes Kelly remains an eternal mission, discerning bag hunters were also seeking distinctive, more affordable varieties. "Even though we've been overloaded with monogram designs, Celine's Seventies buckle bag is highly sought after," said one-named French vintage collector Anoushka, gleeful after bagging a Sixties Hermes Evelyn bag for a mere 160 euros ($205). "Certain Christian Dior monogram bags from the Seventies also have exceptional fabrics and finishes," she added.
Also on the prowl were French design duo Michele Mariot and Olivier Chatenet of E2. The pair, who customize vintage pieces, were searching for Charles Jourdan bags and shoes, Bonnie Cashin bags designed for Coach in the Seventies and Italian designer Roberta Di Camarino's velvet designs from the Fifties. "Di Camarino designed a stunning velvet bag in the shape of a small doctor bag that is supposed to have inspired Miuccia Prada," said Chatenet. "But beautiful models, particularly those produced in France and Italy, are becoming rarer and rarer."
While handbags were the main attraction, young clients also pounced on Panama hats customized with lace, Thirties-inspired bell hats in modern prints, Seventies shoes and elaborate Sixties plastic jewelry. The DIY trend for customized vintage meant that stands selling old ribbons, embroidered flowers, lace and buttons also did a booming business.
The regions of France, of course, offer not only local wines and cheeses, but specific traditional fabrics, too. These were sought by such shoppers as Nadege Cezette, a French knitwear designer. "We trawl the markets in France, as each region has its fabric specialty, like Vichy for its gingham or Chantilly for lace," she explained. "Young women like to be in charge of all of the elements, to mix the old and the new -- to create their own styles." Anoushka praised the Lyon market for the bargains and the unexpected mix. "You get this sense that they've been jovially preparing for it all year," she said.
Mark Ellis, owner of the London vintage boutique Palette, didn't make it to Lyon, but he confirmed that there's a growing demand for unusual Sixties and Seventies styles such as Margaret Smith's Sixties floral designs and jeweled fabric bags in muted shades. He predicted that glam Halston styles would be the must-have for this fall.
"Women are looking for something that is absolutely unique," said Ellis, recalling a pink knitted Crown Craft-style bag from the Fifties that recently sparked a duel between two customers. "They literally stood in the store and bid against each other until it had doubled in price from 200 to 400 pounds [$378 to $757]," he said.
Meanwhile, trendsetting stylist Katie Grand said that a "classy" used Hermes horsehair number would be her bag of choice. "A Kelly is a very particular bag to carry around," she said. "And, let's face it, you can buy a great car for the same price." Mid-Nineties nylon Prada bags also figure high on Grand's wish list, and a Sixties' Celine monogram bag is her notion of the zenith of vintage cool. "I love that idea of the Sixties' sporty look, but I don't actually own one yet," she said.
klow-chloe'
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taitai thanks for the article...very interesting.
pucci_mama
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Thanks for the article interesting, indeed.
I just don't really understand the hype of the novak bag it's a bit unpractical design to be honest, what can you really fir in there?
It's a bit too trendy IMO, to be a classic, but time will tell.
Aslo for that price i would rather take the money towards a Birkin.
I just don't really understand the hype of the novak bag it's a bit unpractical design to be honest, what can you really fir in there?
It's a bit too trendy IMO, to be a classic, but time will tell.
Aslo for that price i would rather take the money towards a Birkin.
masquerade
God Save McQueen
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Taitai said:
so net-a-porter.com wont have it, they have been teasing that they will start carrying mcqueen. that sucks.
im wondering if there are going to be fakes on ebay. i mean, the bag has to be pretty popular for fakes to be made
Here's the latest on the Novak bags. The leather versions are coming in red and cream, and in both small and medium sizes.
For the croc, they are coming in honey (the lighter brown) and the chocolate. But unfortunately both these bags are only coming in the small size. I had my heart set on a medium chocolate croc, so am disappointed about this. The green croc is coming in both small and medium.
The bag is getting TONS of editorial space this month. It's in virtually all the key fashion magazines - e.g. included in September's W magazine article of IT Bags, and it's prominently featured in the September Tatler. Aaargh, this means it's gonna be even more difficult to get the bags now.
For the croc, they are coming in honey (the lighter brown) and the chocolate. But unfortunately both these bags are only coming in the small size. I had my heart set on a medium chocolate croc, so am disappointed about this. The green croc is coming in both small and medium.
The bag is getting TONS of editorial space this month. It's in virtually all the key fashion magazines - e.g. included in September's W magazine article of IT Bags, and it's prominently featured in the September Tatler. Aaargh, this means it's gonna be even more difficult to get the bags now.
