The Net a Porter owner seems to be pushing McQueen. Read snippets of an article from Financial Times:
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Natalie Massenet, of
www.Net-a-Porter.com , believes everything is "ladylike and much more pulled-together and polished than it has been for quite a few seasons". Running alongsidethis is what Massenet calls a "breakaway trend", which for this winter includes "quite a lot of rich boho 60s and a Victoriana vibe. But even if you do Victoriana it's still very polished; to summarise the whole season, it's uptown, not downtown."
At Selfridges, Lina Basma, the buying manager for designer wear, says she's still buying heavily into the "novelty jacket" - picture military and cropped tuxes - and the 1960s theme, encompassing "the 60s military with Balenciaga, and the romantic and Victoriana 60s blouses worn with structured pants or very floaty skirts". Anita Wong at Joyce says for daytime "it's long and lean . . . think 1950s capri pants, slimline pants, old Hollywood screen sirens". She also highlights a Russian aristocracy of yore theme, most manifest in "military styling, embellishment, trimming and details".
For more specific details, below is a list of the MIPs - Most Important Pieces - that have been recommended and categorised for easy adherence. Let the shopping commence.
Professional
For Massenet, this is all about McQueen. "He has done just the most fabulous herringbone tweed dress with three-quarter sleeves; it's very chic, perfect for meetings in a boardroom or presentations, worn with just a plain pump and the Novak bag."
Basma agrees wholeheartedly, citing McQueen's 1950s pencil-skirt suits as key items - the "50s office girl" as she calls it. But Kalinski takes a different view: "It's all about separates, so no jacket or trouser suits." He singles out a little coloured suede jacket by Jil Sander, worn over a turtleneck, while Wong advises a Sander blazer with a chiffon-pleated lining.
Partywear
Kalinski recommends fashion's current beloved label, Lanvin, singling out a "navy blue velvet, just-below-the-knee dress with waistband". Basma says that evening wear has gone "much more couture, very glamorous, very sleek; it's not about boho anymore, it's more ladylike sophistication" and gives full marks (again) to McQueen's big black bow dress.
Massenet says this category has to be about "the cocktail dress" and reports that Roland Mouret has "outdone himself", pointing to either a strapless dress or one with little cap sleeves, both figure-hugging, both black. For a spot of differentiation Hadida recommends Missotten's delicate inlaid-lace panel dresses "because they can be worn by day too", or some bejewelled dresses from Ann Demeulemeester.
Playwear
Massenet has two choices: a Juicy Couture paisley maxi dress and Maharishi belted safari dress "that you could slip on with flat boots and a big woolly scarf". Selfridges is predicting a comeback for combat trousers and recommends DKNY Pure. Kalinski plumps for "a velvet Rick Owens knee-length skirt for running around every day - it should be worn with a Libertine blazer (camel corduroy with a blue silk screen pattern)". Wong says playwear is a Dr Romanelli leather bomber jacket.