NYFW : A Repetitive Bore?

[SophiaVB]

Where will the main locations this season be, aside from Spring Studios and The Shed, does anyone know? Is there a schedule that lists locations too?

I think a lot of designers are skipping The Shed due to Hudson Yards association.

Looks like they're basically all at Spring Studios this year.
September 2019 Schedule - NYFW 2019

 

[SophiaVB]

Looking at the schedule again & there's really very little that is indicative of the impact of American designers right now. Like almost nothing I have any interest in seeing.

 

[Lola701]

The « all the shows showing at Spring Studios » reminds me of the time when brands used to show at Le Carrousel du Louvre in Paris.
Ultimately, the biggest names stopped showing there and started to invest (with the help of the city) in different places.

Fashion is part of life, it’s a pity that the city doesn’t open the city to fashion. Having all those shows at Spring Studios kinda confirm the whole idea of American fashion being a standardized/soulless thing.

This new calendar will help the ones who are showing off site. That Off site list has a real international appeal. They are showing a lifestyle...Not just clothes.

 

[Mutterlein]

What I'm looking forward to seeing from NYC this SS 2020 season:
Sies Marjan, Adam Lippes, Lauren Manoogian, The Row, Rosetta Getty, Gabriela Hearst, Tory Burch, Marc Jacobs.

 

[modela]

NYFW needs new talent and fast ,they can cut as many shows as they want , it is still has a problem. I hope they are active in looking for new blood.

 

[Mutterlein]

NYFW needs new talent and fast ,they can cut as many shows as they want , it is still has a problem. I hope they are active in looking for new blood.

Doesn't matter how hard they look if there's nothing to find.

My favorite designers in NYC at the moment don't even do shows and so they aren't on the radar if you're only looking at "Fashion Week."

Rosetta Getty, Adam Lippes, Rosie Assoulin, Lauren Manoogian... besides The Row, they probably represent the very best of what NYC has to offer and none of them do a runway show.

 

[Deleted member 143689]

The Row is definitely one to watch but at this point I’ve already tuned out. I’ll pay attention again for Marc haha.

Can we talk about how played out Tomo koizumi is. Honestly the casting too. Like so gimmicky across the board. I could live life happily if never had to see Gwendolyn walk another show.

 

[jeanclaude]

Well, now the bore last less than before...it is an improvement!!

 

[perfect blue]

Crazy to think this used to be where the original Helmut Lang was shown. I would rather be optimistic about the future and hope that someone amazing will come along, instead of holding onto cynicism. The latter is too easy. I know NYFW has been so underwhelming for years but I hope some young talent is there waiting to break through.

 

[Benn98]

Great news! Considering the big brands always bring out the bells and whistles for their shows yet still didn't top the list, I'd say this is a pretty strong statement. Now let's hope all that coverage will translate to sales....

New York Fashion Week Tops Media Impact, According to DMR Group

More than 38 percent of the total earned media value generated during the fashion marathon was achieved in New York.

By Alessandra Turra on October 14, 2019

MILAN — What was the media impact of the latest New York, London, Milan and Paris Fashion Weeks? A combined 274.1 million euros, according to data provided by DMR Group, a company focused on monitoring, tracking and analyzing data communication activities and public relations strategies for leading brands around the world.

Analyzing newspapers, more than 100,000 web sites and 20,000 social accounts, DMR highlighted that 38.4 percent of the total earned media value was generated during New York Fashion Week, followed by Milan, Paris and London Fashion Weeks. In particular, 58.2 percent of the total earned media value was generated through social media accounts, while web sites and newspapers accounted for 25.9 and 15.9 percent, respectively.

In particular, print coverage created an estimated value of 43.5 million euros, with about 372 pages dedicated to fashion, 53.3 percent of them running during Milan Fashion Week. In Italy, the U.K. and France, respectively, Corriere della Sera, The Daily Telegraph and Le Figaro were the newspapers dedicating more coverage to fashion during the four-week marathon.

Online coverage totaled an estimated media value of 71.1 million euros. Paris and New York Fashion Weeks received the biggest attention from web sites, followed by Milan and London Fashion Weeks.

The total estimated value of social media coverage was 159.5 million euros and 49.9 percent of that was achieved during New York Fashion Week, followed by Milan and Paris. The social media coverage was significantly smaller in London, accounting for only 6 percent.

Instagram was the preferred channel during the four fashion weeks, accounting for 67.6 percent of the total earned media value, followed by Facebook.

Celebrity-wise, in New York, Chinese actress and singer Wang Luodan May, with a single post, was the celebrity with the biggest reach, while Brazilian TV presenter Sabrina Sato, Victoria Beckham and K-pop star Sandara Park were the personalities with the biggest reach in Milan, London and Paris, respectively.

Among influencers, Victoria Justice generated the most earned media value in New York, while Xenia Tchoumitcheva, Chiara Biasi and Noha Nabil were the stars in London, Milan and Paris.

WWD

 

[SophiaVB]

I think that has more to do with the really stagey IG-oriented shows (think Tommy x Zendaya) than anything else. NYFW is all style no substance... or rather no style no substance.

 

[Benn98]

Ugh, I now don't get what Tom is playing at!?!?!



CFDA Releases February Show Schedule: Where’s Ralph?

Ralph Lauren and Tommy Hilfiger are both missing from the New York fashion show schedule.

By Lisa Lockwood on December 19, 2019

The Council of Fashion Designers of America has released its official schedule for New York Fashion Week, and there are some key omissions among big-name designers: Ralph Lauren is not on the schedule, nor is Tommy Hilfiger.

A spokesman for Ralph Lauren Corp. said the company hasn’t released its plans yet for its spring 2020 show. A Tommy Hilfiger spokeswoman said the company would be releasing its show location in the new year. Hilfiger has been moving from city to city for its shows in recent years, touching down in such cities as Los Angeles, Paris, Milan, New York and London.

Meantime, Tom Ford, chairman of the CFDA, is listed on the New York Fashion Week schedule on Feb. 7 — but his show is in L.A.

Other L.A.-based designers, such as Jonathan Simkhai and Rodarte, plan to show in New York on Feb. 10 at 11 a.m., and Feb. 11 at 6 p.m., respectively.

NYFW kicks off the evening of Feb. 7 with a 6 p.m. show by Monse, and ends on Feb. 12 with a 6 p.m. show by Marc Jacobs.

The schedule has many of the regulars such as Carolina Herrera, Nicole Miller, Jason Wu, Brandon Maxwell, Proenza Schouler, Anna Sui, 3.1 Phillip Lim, Rag & Bone, The Row, Alice + Olivia, Gabriela Hearst, Tibi, Dennis Basso and Michael Kors.

Some of the later shows are Laquan Smith on Feb. 8 at 9 p.m., Palm Angels on Feb. 9 at 9 p.m., Oscar de la Renta on Feb. 10 at 9 p.m. and Christian Cowan on Feb. 11 at 9 p.m.

A few designers are sharing time slots, such as Badgley Mischka and Self-Portrait on Feb. 8 at 10 a.m.; Area and Jeffrey Dodd on Feb. 9 at 11 a.m.; Nicole Miller and Romeo Hunte on Feb. 9 at 4 p.m.; Collina Strada and Dennis Basso on Feb. 9 at 5 p.m.; Libertine and Veronica Beard on Feb. 10 at 4 p.m., and Aliette and Marina Moscone on Feb. 12 at 11 a.m.

In total, there are 71 companies showing on the Fashion Calendar calendar, which is subject to change. To be considered for the official New York Fashion Week schedule, all designers go through an application process that takes into consideration domestic and international editorial coverage, years in business, retail accounts, and if designers have participated in fashion week before.

Not on CFDA’s Fashion Calendar is Christian Siriano, who plans to show in New York on Feb. 6.

WWD

 

[Lola701]

Ugh, I now don't get what Tom is playing at!?!?!

I smell a « I’m doing a movie right now » from Tom. The last time he held a show there, he was directing his second movie.

I just don’t believe that a man who is dressing one woman and several men has to show in LA just because it’s Oscar season. He is a director and so, he has to be there but the showing in LA is not a necessity from that point.

That being said, it will give him huge press. All the celebrities, the models and stuff.
It would be cool of him to attend some designers’s shows as a gesture to « repair » this.
I just hope that the collection will be fine this season.

 

[SophiaVB]

There were many designers in NYC that weren't on the schedule last season but chose to show in non-CFDA locations. Maybe this is more an indication of NYC designers going AWOL. Might be cool I guess if it results in greater creativity.... though doubt Hilfiger and Lauren are going to make a crazy departure.

 

[Benn98]

Tom Ford, CFDA Chairman, Renames Show Schedule ‘American Collections Calendar’
All American designers will be included on the calendar, regardless of where they are showing or collection release date.

By Lisa Lockwood on January 29, 2021

Tom Ford, chairman of the Council of Fashion Designers of America, sent out a letter to its membership this morning saying that the New York Fashion Week show schedule will be renamed the “American Collections Calendar.”

With a growing number of American designers showing their collections later in the season and sometimes outside of New York, whether that be in Europe, Asia, or other key markets, Ford wrote that the CFDA will now be including all American designers within the calendar and on Runway360, its digital platform, regardless of location or collection release date.

The CFDA hasn’t issued its show schedule yet for the upcoming February shows, but it has become increasingly apparent that many U.S. designers — such as Michael Kors, Ralph Lauren, Marc Jacobs and Tory Burch — are planning to present their collections later this season and not during NYFW, which is scheduled from Feb. 14 to 17.

In the letter, Ford wrote, “While the CFDA will continue to encourage American designers to show in New York during New York Fashion Week, we recognize the need for some to broaden their global visibility. In the past few years, many of our members have chosen to show in Europe, Asia, and other key markets and in many cases off-calendar. The events of the past year have only highlighted the need for flexibility within the fashion system.”

Ford pointed out that the chief mission statement of the CFDA since its inception in 1962 has been to promote American fashion both domestically and abroad. “Now more than ever this is one of our primary goals. The world has changed dramatically since 1962 and achieving global brand recognition is key to securing success for American designers,” he wrote.

“To that end, the show schedule that is released by the CFDA each season will be renamed ‘American Collections Calendar,” he wrote. He said that the importance of New York Fashion Week will still remain a priority.

“This season, even more than last, will be a great challenge for all of us as the world grapples with an increasingly devastating pandemic and economic downturn. We at the CFDA are here to support you in any way that we can,” wrote Ford.

In making the decision, Steven Kolb, chief executive officer of the CFDA, told WWD that they have been looking at the upcoming market and saw the success of Runway360 last September, which was basically a virtual fashion week and a shortened three days.

“We got incredible response from buyers and editors who found the platform really easy, accessible, fluid and helpful,” said Kolb.

He said they knew that the COVID-19 crisis wasn’t going to be any better in February and was likely to be worse. “COVID-19 is raging and many countries are shut down, production chains shut down. This season, even more than last, we’re seeing designers are impacted. That resulted is an even greater need of flexibility around their collections and how they show,” said Kolb.

He pointed out that last season, many designers didn’t show during that three-day period because of supply chain issues, or not being prepared because they couldn’t be in their studios. He said that holds true for a lot of companies again.

As the CFDA looked at that impact on this particular season, they started to think about how designers show collections. He said they acknowledged that even before the pandemic, designers chose not to show during fashion week or decided to show at a different location. They could be showing in Asia coinciding with a store opening, or showing with a special calendar event, such as an anniversary, he said. “We’d already seen American designers, before the pandemic, starting to show outside of fashion week or in other locations,” said Kolb.

In fact, when they conducted a study several years ago on the future of fashion week, the main finding was “Brands should do what is best for the brand.”

“Our mission is to globalize American fashion and to support American designers, big and small, throughout the year, and not just during fashion week. With that in mind, it really made sense to us to look at the market and collections bigger than just New York Fashion Week. That’s where we came up with Tom’s letter, and ‘American Collections,’ and that approach moving forward,” said Kolb.

He said the new calendar would embrace brands that show after NYFW because of supply chain issues, or to connect with a specific event, or a brand that’s on a European calendar, or showing in Asia, when they get back to live events.

“The ‘American Collections Calendar’ is really going to bring all the American shows and presentations together in that calendar. The heart of the ‘American Collections Calendar’ will always be New York Fashion Week. This is not about dismissing or abandoning NYFW. NYFW is the heart, it’s the soul, it’s the foundation of this new modern way of thinking which is really reflective of how the business is operating today,” said Kolb.

The “American Collections Calendar” will come out twice a year. The fashion calendar continues as an online platform that is updated year-round, listing all fashion-related events in New York.

According to Kolb, NYFW from Feb. 14 to 17 will still feature emerging designers and known brands .

He was asked if a year from now, when hopefully things are better, would he want to encourage people to show in New York during NYFW?

“Yes, NYFW is the soul and heart and foundation of this new way of thinking. We are super excited about New York in September and where we might be with the vaccine roll-out and hopefully people will be vaccinated in the summer. We anticipate September NYFW as being important and creative. We’re acknowledging and supporting the brands that aren’t able to show in New York, or have a business strategy to show elsewhere either in time or location,” he said.

During the past few years, Gabriela Hearst, Thom Brown and Altuzarra have shown in Paris, Rodarte and Tom Ford have shown Los Angeles and Tommy Hilfiger has shown all over the world. “This is really aligning with the business strategy those brands see as business opportunities,” he said.

Kolb acknowledged that American fashion is a huge global business.

“When you have a fashion week in a city, there’s power in that. There’s power in the economy of that city, there’s power in the collectedness of brands showing together. ‘American Collections’ has really evolved in a big way in embracing the way designers are showing, and supporting them,” said Kolb.

Asked if they’ve run this by IMG, which owns NYFW: The Shows, Kolb said he doesn’t have to run anything by them. He said IMG is doing NYFW: The Shows, and CFDA is New York Fashion Week and is the fashion calendar. “We are the official scheduler and organizer of New York Fashion Week, and we’re extending that and growing that in now having the ‘American Collections Calendar.’ IMG has their own schedule,” he said.

He said a lot of IMG brands are on the CFDA calendar. “They are very focused on producing events. They’re an entertainment company. We’re a not-for-profit organization that represents American fashion. We bought the fashion calendar from Ruth Finley, and we schedule NYFW. We work with IMG during NYFW. We share schedules and support each other. What we’re talking about is furthering and strengthening the mission of the CFDA, which is supporting American designers in the global economy. Some of them will choose different times and different places to show.”

As for the upcoming NYFW, Kolb said he expects to have about the same amount or perhaps more brands participating than in September. [URL='https://wwd.com/fashion-news/designer-luxury/cfda-runway360-1203685678/']Last September, 82 brands took part in Runway360.[/URL] “The idea of a calendar release is not really necessary. When you have live shows, you have to release the schedule in advance, so people have to plan travel and logistical coordination. We want to take the time and really get things shored up, so people [designers] have time to confirm,” he said.

“We’re going to have a very fleshed-out schedule which we’ll be able to share early next week. You’ll see some brands returning that haven’t been on a calendar for a while, you’ll see some new brands, you’ll see the continued engagement of more diversity. What’s so powerful about Runway360 is open access, we’re supporting emerging talent, it has global reach, and it’s flexible. You can be a brand that has a budget and makes a movie, or you can get a studio and livestream with no audience, and you can be a brand that asks your friend to come over to your apartment, put them in your clothes and ask a neighbor to shoot a look book.”

He said brands can spend as little or as much as they want. Runway360 is also business-to-business. One can see a collection and move into a virtual showroom. “It’s going to be great,” said Kolb.

[I][SIZE=1]WWD[/SIZE][/I]

 

[Fulton St Critique]

Tom Ford, CFDA Chairman, Renames Show Schedule ‘American Collections Calendar’
All American designers will be included on the calendar, regardless of where they are showing or collection release date.

By Lisa Lockwood on January 29, 2021

Tom Ford, chairman of the Council of Fashion Designers of America, sent out a letter to its membership this morning saying that the New York Fashion Week show schedule will be renamed the “American Collections Calendar.”

With a growing number of American designers showing their collections later in the season and sometimes outside of New York, whether that be in Europe, Asia, or other key markets, Ford wrote that the CFDA will now be including all American designers within the calendar and on Runway360, its digital platform, regardless of location or collection release date.

The CFDA hasn’t issued its show schedule yet for the upcoming February shows, but it has become increasingly apparent that many U.S. designers — such as Michael Kors, Ralph Lauren, Marc Jacobs and Tory Burch — are planning to present their collections later this season and not during NYFW, which is scheduled from Feb. 14 to 17.

In the letter, Ford wrote, “While the CFDA will continue to encourage American designers to show in New York during New York Fashion Week, we recognize the need for some to broaden their global visibility. In the past few years, many of our members have chosen to show in Europe, Asia, and other key markets and in many cases off-calendar. The events of the past year have only highlighted the need for flexibility within the fashion system.”

Ford pointed out that the chief mission statement of the CFDA since its inception in 1962 has been to promote American fashion both domestically and abroad. “Now more than ever this is one of our primary goals. The world has changed dramatically since 1962 and achieving global brand recognition is key to securing success for American designers,” he wrote.

“To that end, the show schedule that is released by the CFDA each season will be renamed ‘American Collections Calendar,” he wrote. He said that the importance of New York Fashion Week will still remain a priority.

“This season, even more than last, will be a great challenge for all of us as the world grapples with an increasingly devastating pandemic and economic downturn. We at the CFDA are here to support you in any way that we can,” wrote Ford.

In making the decision, Steven Kolb, chief executive officer of the CFDA, told WWD that they have been looking at the upcoming market and saw the success of Runway360 last September, which was basically a virtual fashion week and a shortened three days.

“We got incredible response from buyers and editors who found the platform really easy, accessible, fluid and helpful,” said Kolb.

He said they knew that the COVID-19 crisis wasn’t going to be any better in February and was likely to be worse. “COVID-19 is raging and many countries are shut down, production chains shut down. This season, even more than last, we’re seeing designers are impacted. That resulted is an even greater need of flexibility around their collections and how they show,” said Kolb.

He pointed out that last season, many designers didn’t show during that three-day period because of supply chain issues, or not being prepared because they couldn’t be in their studios. He said that holds true for a lot of companies again.

As the CFDA looked at that impact on this particular season, they started to think about how designers show collections. He said they acknowledged that even before the pandemic, designers chose not to show during fashion week or decided to show at a different location. They could be showing in Asia coinciding with a store opening, or showing with a special calendar event, such as an anniversary, he said. “We’d already seen American designers, before the pandemic, starting to show outside of fashion week or in other locations,” said Kolb.

In fact, when they conducted a study several years ago on the future of fashion week, the main finding was “Brands should do what is best for the brand.”

“Our mission is to globalize American fashion and to support American designers, big and small, throughout the year, and not just during fashion week. With that in mind, it really made sense to us to look at the market and collections bigger than just New York Fashion Week. That’s where we came up with Tom’s letter, and ‘American Collections,’ and that approach moving forward,” said Kolb.

He said the new calendar would embrace brands that show after NYFW because of supply chain issues, or to connect with a specific event, or a brand that’s on a European calendar, or showing in Asia, when they get back to live events.

“The ‘American Collections Calendar’ is really going to bring all the American shows and presentations together in that calendar. The heart of the ‘American Collections Calendar’ will always be New York Fashion Week. This is not about dismissing or abandoning NYFW. NYFW is the heart, it’s the soul, it’s the foundation of this new modern way of thinking which is really reflective of how the business is operating today,” said Kolb.

The “American Collections Calendar” will come out twice a year. The fashion calendar continues as an online platform that is updated year-round, listing all fashion-related events in New York.

According to Kolb, NYFW from Feb. 14 to 17 will still feature emerging designers and known brands .

He was asked if a year from now, when hopefully things are better, would he want to encourage people to show in New York during NYFW?

“Yes, NYFW is the soul and heart and foundation of this new way of thinking. We are super excited about New York in September and where we might be with the vaccine roll-out and hopefully people will be vaccinated in the summer. We anticipate September NYFW as being important and creative. We’re acknowledging and supporting the brands that aren’t able to show in New York, or have a business strategy to show elsewhere either in time or location,” he said.

During the past few years, Gabriela Hearst, Thom Brown and Altuzarra have shown in Paris, Rodarte and Tom Ford have shown Los Angeles and Tommy Hilfiger has shown all over the world. “This is really aligning with the business strategy those brands see as business opportunities,” he said.

Kolb acknowledged that American fashion is a huge global business.

“When you have a fashion week in a city, there’s power in that. There’s power in the economy of that city, there’s power in the collectedness of brands showing together. ‘American Collections’ has really evolved in a big way in embracing the way designers are showing, and supporting them,” said Kolb.

Asked if they’ve run this by IMG, which owns NYFW: The Shows, Kolb said he doesn’t have to run anything by them. He said IMG is doing NYFW: The Shows, and CFDA is New York Fashion Week and is the fashion calendar. “We are the official scheduler and organizer of New York Fashion Week, and we’re extending that and growing that in now having the ‘American Collections Calendar.’ IMG has their own schedule,” he said.

He said a lot of IMG brands are on the CFDA calendar. “They are very focused on producing events. They’re an entertainment company. We’re a not-for-profit organization that represents American fashion. We bought the fashion calendar from Ruth Finley, and we schedule NYFW. We work with IMG during NYFW. We share schedules and support each other. What we’re talking about is furthering and strengthening the mission of the CFDA, which is supporting American designers in the global economy. Some of them will choose different times and different places to show.”

As for the upcoming NYFW, Kolb said he expects to have about the same amount or perhaps more brands participating than in September. Last September, 82 brands took part in Runway360. “The idea of a calendar release is not really necessary. When you have live shows, you have to release the schedule in advance, so people have to plan travel and logistical coordination. We want to take the time and really get things shored up, so people [designers] have time to confirm,” he said.

“We’re going to have a very fleshed-out schedule which we’ll be able to share early next week. You’ll see some brands returning that haven’t been on a calendar for a while, you’ll see some new brands, you’ll see the continued engagement of more diversity. What’s so powerful about Runway360 is open access, we’re supporting emerging talent, it has global reach, and it’s flexible. You can be a brand that has a budget and makes a movie, or you can get a studio and livestream with no audience, and you can be a brand that asks your friend to come over to your apartment, put them in your clothes and ask a neighbor to shoot a look book.”

He said brands can spend as little or as much as they want. Runway360 is also business-to-business. One can see a collection and move into a virtual showroom. “It’s going to be great,” said Kolb.

WWD

Love this forward way of thinking. Say what you want about New York Fashion Week, but the fact of the matter is with the increased rise in globalization and the logistics of gaining greater recognition by heading overseas, the gifted American designers should not be held to showing on one city just to keep a fashion week relevant. I love New York Fashion Week, but I can understand and appreciate Ford’s decision to implement this idea.

 

[dsamg]

I suppose with travel restrictions from the EU to US set to last many more months we may see more shows and models move to Europe.