Olivier Theyskens Officially Parts Ways with Nina Ricci

[kimair]

it's official...

Olivier Theyskens and Nina Ricci are officially divorced, WWD has learned.

In a joint statement, the designer and Ricci said Theyskens exited the French fashion house on March 10, ahead of the expiration of his contract in October.

Ricci “wishes to re-orientate its development strategy for the years to come,” the statement said. “Consequently, Nina Ricci and its artistic director Olivier Theyksens have decided by mutual agreement to cease their collaboration.”

There was no mention of design succession at Ricci, but the separation should pave the way for the arrival of Peter Copping who, as reported in WWD Jan. 28, is to join Ricci as creative director from his current post as a top design deputy to Marc Jacobs at Louis Vuitton.

Neither Theyskens nor Ricci would comment beyond the statement, a quiet denouement to a two-year partnership marked by torrents of editorial acclaim, weak commercial success and, more recently, signs of discord between a wunderkind designer and a brand owner keen to bring its fashion house up to the level of success of its perfume business. Spain’s Puig Group owns Ricci, as well as the fashion houses Carolina Herrera and Paco Rabanne.

In anticipation of a separation announcement, speculation about Theyskens’ next move was a hot topic during Paris Fashion Week, which wound up last week.

Sources ruled out the possibility — touted in some editor circles — of a design role at Schiaparelli, a dormant brand owned by Tod’s Diego Della Valle that is not slated for revival until 2010 at the earliest. Della Valle has denied conducting a design search for Schiaparelli, a mythic name in fashion synonymous with surrealism and shocking pink.

As reported, Theyskens owns the rights to his trademark and is said to be mulling a relaunch of his signature label.

Brussels-born Theyskens, who catapulted to fame at age 21 when Madonna wore his black satin hook-and-eye gown to the Oscars in 1998, put his signature brand on hiatus when he joined Rochas in 2003. His reign there, marked by critical acclaim, ended when owner Procter & Gamble Co. shuttered the money-losing fashion house to concentrate on fragrance. (Rochas ready-to-wear has since been licensed to Italy’s Gibò Co. SpA and debuted its first collection, by designer Marco Zannini, during Paris Fashion Week.)

Theyskens’ final runway collection for Ricci — paraded last week on a sandpaperlike runway, his models perched on stilt-like shoes — was viewed as a creative kiss-off to Ricci management and a defiant statement of his Goth leanings versus the romantic and ethereal image of the Ricci brand.

wwd / march 15, 2009

 

[from: sophia]

He would be amazing at Schiaparelli I had no idea that was ever a possibility I thought that the house was closed for good. I think that he could work Schiaparelli because he does the bias cut so well as she did.

 

[dior_couture1245]

Wow. I knew it was coming, but for some reason it still feels shocking.

Although the Schiaparelli position sounds very intriguing (even though it was clearly denied in the article, I still kind of like the idea of Schiaparelli by Theyskens...much more than Schiaparelli by Giles Deacon, that's for sure!), it's time for him to restart his own label...he's had too much bad luck with other people's houses.

 

[from: sophia]

I know he is the curse of the unsellable (ahh if I could afford it I would buy a piece every season)

 

[TraiT]

Wow. I knew it was coming, but for some reason it still feels shocking.

Although the Schiaparelli position sounds very intriguing (even though it was clearly denied in the article, I still kind of like the idea of Schiaparelli by Theyskens...much more than Schiaparelli by Giles Deacon, that's for sure!), it's time for him to restart his own label...he's had too much bad luck with other people's houses.

Yup. It's about time he get back to his own label. Though in revenue, his works didn't strike hard, but he has gained so much more recognition than the Rochas days.

One more thing. Honestly, from my personal view, he really should just start doing couture instead. If the resort or cruise collections from Nina Ricci are also not doing well enough, that really reflects Theyskens's positioning in fashion design. He is more of an design artist than a designer. So why not let people appreciates and admire his works, rather than being obligated to sell or tailor his aesthetics to suit the buyers.

 

[Scott]

wait...giles deacon at schiaparelli???? the mind reels on that touting! anyway,i think it's time for olivier theyskens for olivier theyskens as well. it's been six long years since we've seen his label.

 

[dior_couture1245]

^^Giles at Schiap was only rumored.

 

[kiddokiddo]

^Amen to that, Scott
His namesake line was the most groundbreaking works I'd seen from him.

 

[Alejandro]

I'm personally thrilled for Spring 2010!!! Can you imagine the spectacle that he is going to show for his last show as a big "f**k you" to Nina Ricci!!!

Literally I cannot wait for the brilliance that he will bring as a finale to his time at the house!!!

the biggest f-you he could deliver to them would be to produce a tdf collection that becomes a huge success and everybody wants to buy.....then he can leave while getting the last laugh.... "look what you're losing now b*tches!"



i love olivier he's gonna be just fine on his own

 

[Scott]

^

i just hope if olivier does re-start his label he doesn't feel the pressure of the economy and brings a bit of that old,severe,uber-dramatic,uber-romantic spirit back. the last season before heading to rochas it was his most commercial and i just would love to see him break back out and do something again without the constraints. i would love to see that beautiful antique-quality material he often utilised.

 

[Crying Diamonds]

That Deacon-Schiaparelli rumour is age old. I made a thread of it in the Rumour Has It... area..
I can't really imagine Theyskens for Schiaparelli tbh - they seem like two designers with completely different ways of thinking.

I also want to see what Theyskens will do on his own. It's intriguing.

 

[XavierRaphael]

I can totally see Olivier for Schiaparelli. Beautifully feminine, soft, avant-garde. Its totally Olivier. Oh and ofcourse strong shoulders.

 

[Scott]

do you have the link crying diamonds? i can't seem to find it with search.


i can't see him either,i agree. it would definitely have to somebody with that spirit or talent capable of contrasting utter humour and wit with elegance...like a bernhard(his early seasons are so in that vein)....i even think a roksanda ilincic or katarzyna szczotarska(remember her lobster corsets in 2004?),has the kind of quirkiness and play on embellishment that could translate into schiap.

 

[Kimkhuu]

Money money money.

He's such a great designer. Like any artist in our capitalist society, he'll never have the freedom to create.

 

[Pastry]

I, for one, think it's pretty obvious that Theyskens should just start over with his own brand. It would be a welcome addition.

Whereas reviving Schiap is not a good idea, imo. Some things are better left in the past. What is this obsession with famous old labels? I believe in carefully referencing the past and developing an interesting point of view about current times.

Just saying..

 

[Scott]

^i agree pastry...research and individual perspective is far more interesting than reviving old labels. but if it were to happen,i mean,i would much rather it be someone who understands the language of elsa's body of work. but of course my suggestions are small talents....they would need that boring hype factor.

 

[Jamess]

I dont think theyre definately reviving it are they? It was rumoured (pre-'recession') that Giles would be relaunching it, after a particularly strong show from him. I think he would fit it although I dont like his work really, and I cant imagine how Schiap would function as a brand.

I hope Olivier does do something else. I think he peaked at Rochas though and I cant imagine what his next work will be like, he already said somewhere the gothic/historical/broken touch to his early work was 'just a phase'. Would be interesting to see what he could come up with without a house legacy. I hope he dosnt start referencing gothic again.

 

[Scott]

well if it were a phase,it was a rather long phase. even all the way into some of his work at rochas,there was still elements that were prevalent. anyway,i don't think i'd want to see him rehash the corset-boning,hook and eye,catsuits with the embroidered circulatory system....but i would love see some of that more thoughtful design process back...as i said the antique-manipulated materials with a bit of that severity,that was utterly gorgeous and timeless to me.

 

[Mutterlein]

Money money money.

He's such a great designer. Like any artist in our capitalist society, he'll never have the freedom to create.

Being an artist is great if that's what you're selling. But he's selling clothes. As much as I respect Theysken's creative vision you have to wonder how in touch the man truly is if his clothes aren't selling.

It's clear Olivier has a penchant for luxe and the grand, unfortunately there aren't many product categories like that on which you can build a business, especially now. It's odd to me that designers like Rick Owens, Anne Demeulemeester, or Raf Simons, for as thought out and avant garde their clothes are, can manage to make a desirable and wearable garment yet still keep their identity and integrity intact. A Rick Owens t-shirt has the same appeal and design conviction that his shearling coats do, the appeal is carried across price points and across ranges - he makes sure there is something you can buy no matter your funds, and it's all pure Rick. Anne does this as well. Theyskens should take a lesson.

 

[Spike413]

^ I agree.

I mean, I think Theyskens is talented, but in seeing his work at Rochas and then at Nina Ricci there have been times when it's clear he's not at all concerned with making clothes that people can wear or even afford. You could call his persistence conviction or you could call it stubbornness. Point is, by not making garments that people want to buy, he's only fullfilling half the job of a designer. As for the artist argument, I don't buy it. Fashion designers aren't artists, they're artistic.