Olivier Theyskens to exit Theory, what's next?

[Egoiste]

^I imagine Oliver at Givenchy doing Couture after break.... God that would be divine...

 

[Marc10]

Wasn't Riccardo's contract extended just recently? As much as I would love to see him go, pretty sure the Givenchy folks are still very pleased with him.

Like I said before, I hope he's re-building his namesake label instead of being fished by the big ol' houses. He had suffered from creative oppression in the past, I think we would work best at his own.

 

[VersaceVixen009]

I could totally see Olivier at De La Renta, he knows how to make some BEAUTIFUL gowns and that needs to happen again. As much as I dislike the fame- desperate Tisci, with all the publicity, celebrity endorsement and editorial work Givenchy has gotten, it looks like he won't be going anywhere.

Im wishing on a complete star, but I would love him to replace Raf at Dior. He could totally restore the couture in Dior Couture. But once again, just a dream.

 

[Mutterlein]

Would be happy to see Theysken's do Dior, thought the job should have gone to him in the first place. Also pretty sure he'd do a fantastic job at Givenchy as well and could successfully elaborate on the Gothic tone Tisici has imbued the house with.

Regarding that rumor of Theysken's replacing Tisci, you all are asking the wrong question. It's not whether or not LVMH is unhappy is Tisci and wants to replace him, it's who is giving Tisci a better offer to leave. If the rumor is true I doubt it it was LVMH's idea.

 

[Flashbang]

Free Agent: How Bankable Is Olivier Theyskens Post-Theory?

Fashion loves a comeback, and since Olivier Theyskens parted ways with Theory, the contemporary American sportswear brand, back in June, industry insiders have been plotting his. Is the 37-year-old Belgian designer being considered for a role at Oscar de la Renta, as has been whispered in New York? Could Milan be an option? Sources say he has taken meetings in the Italian city this summer. Or will he return to Paris, where he enjoyed editorial accolades as the creative director at both Rochas and Nina Ricci? Tastemakers began falling for Theyskens back in the late ’90s, when he dressed Madonna in haute gothic style for the Oscars. With a reputation burnished by stints at Rochas and Nina Ricci, he was an unlikely fit for Theory, a brand built on stretch pants, but his show quickly became one of New York fashion week’s must-sees. Approval ratings started out strong; there was excitement about scoring clothes with the designer’s famous name on the label without dropping four figures. Over time, however, the reviews became more skeptical. In February, Theyskens presented a Fall ’14 Theory show without his name attached, and four months later the brand and Theyskens severed ties. As it stands now, the designer’s track record is one of ups and downs. Does that jeopardize his prospects? Or could the fact that he has experience across different continents and different markets count as an asset? Now that Theyskens is a free agent, Style.com spoke to fashion influencers about his future.

As he dusts off his résumé, Theyskens is looking at a shifting designer landscape. LVMH and Kering are currently signing on designers both younger and greener than he is. LVMH crowned Jonathan Anderson creative director of Loewe at 29. Christopher Kane and Joseph Altuzarra were 31 and 30, respectively, when Kering made its investment in their burgeoning brands. Yes, Nicolas Ghesquière, at 43 and newly installed at Louis Vuitton, is older than Theyskens, but Ghesquière’s Balenciaga tenure was longer and more successful than Theyskens’ Paris gigs. The other trend he could be contending with: Brands are hiring relative unknowns. See Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski, recently hired away from The Row to replace Christophe Lemaire at Hermès, and Julie de Libran, the new woman helming Sonia Rykiel.
Insiders don’t see things quite so dimly and are hopeful that he will find the right match this time.

“Olivier has a great design sensibility. At a time when many things look like other things, he really stays true to himself—that’s what I respect,” says Ken Downing, fashion director and senior vice president of Neiman Marcus. “I think if there were an opportunity in New York, it would be great for him,” he continues. “It’s not so much about location on the map as it is about a house that will understand his talent.”

Magali Ginsburg, head of buying & category management for The Corner, which sold Theyskens’ Theory “very well,” sees the designer as “the perfect candidate for a house,” especially because “he [is one of] those designers who when they come on board bring with them a more and more savvy crew of customer followers,” ultimately raising a house’s international reputation.

If not a position at an established house, why not his own label? “I know there are a lot of people who said he wasn’t commercially successful, but I was at Barneys and we sold it,” says Julie Gilhart, now a freelance fashion consultant. “He had a following, and it wasn’t the Nina Ricci or the Rochas customer, it was the Olivier customer,” Gilhart continues. “I’ve always thought that Olivier could do his own thing. When I met him, that’s what he was doing, his own thing. It’s what I want to see for him. He’s one of the great designers.”

As a designer accustomed to the machinery of a big brand behind him, starting out on his own could be daunting. But here in New York, Theyskens has watched other designers—Jason Wu, Prabal Gurung—launch careers by putting red-carpet dresses on the backs of celebrities. And anyone who remembers Irving Penn’s portrait of Nicole Kidman in Rochas knows that Theyskens makes a sublime gown. If he were designing at that level again, Kidman and co. would presumably line up to wear him.

Still, even with A-list endorsements, it can take a decade for a brand to come into its own, and even then it cannot live on eveningwear alone. Wu has branched out into accessories; Gurung counts knitwear among his biggest developing categories. This is where Theyskens’ experience at Theory could pay off, the thinking being that his design vocabulary is much broader than when he arrived in New York four years ago. And his comfort level with everyday is a lot broader now than it was when he arrived. “It broadened his range,” says Neiman’s Downing. “As we all know, he loves couture and does superlative evening pieces. Theory opened up a new vocabulary about sportswear, and living in New York was good for him to see how people on this side of the pond live, dress, and work. It’s a different sensibility than in Europe.”

Anne Slowey, Elle‘s fashion features director, says, “I like what he did for Theory—there is a place for luxury normcore. But I don’t know if it was right for the brand. Unfortunately, Olivier has been miscast all along the way. He’s either too ahead of his time or too far out in left field. Eventually fashion will catch up with him.”

With the industry firmly behind Theyskens—unlike, say, John Galliano, who, since leaving Dior amid a hate-speech scandal, has received support from some influential corners but has yet to redeem himself in the eyes of American retailers—he’s got a good chance of scoring a new gig. But even if he doesn’t land a job quickly, Theyskens isn’t about to fade from fashion’s collective memory bank anytime soon. An Olivier Saillard-curated exhibition set to open at the Palais de la Porte Dorée in December will feature a dress from one of the designer’s earliest signature collections. For now, there’s the virtual museum that is Instagram. #oliviertheyskens.
—Nicole Phelps

style.com

 

[eugenius]

Did she just say "normore"? Really, Anne Slowey of Elle magazine?

I have to say..out of all these top designers that are here one day and there the next, Olivier's the only one whose next move I'm excited to see. If Ghesquiere, Hedi, Pilati, and Raf all suddenly found themselves without jobs tomorrow, and if Galliano never returns to high-fashion, I'd really care less. But for Olivier, no matter what he does or where he goes, I'm still hoping to see him create something magical again.

 

[Pricciao]

she can have her own opinion, I'm with you still eager to see what's next happening to him.

 

[Scott]

If not a position at an established house, why not his own label? “I know there are a lot of people who said he wasn’t commercially successful, but I was at Barneys and we sold it,” says Julie Gilhart, now a freelance fashion consultant. “He had a following, and it wasn’t the Nina Ricci or the Rochas customer, it was the Olivier customer,” Gilhart continues. “I’ve always thought that Olivier could do his own thing. When I met him, that’s what he was doing, his own thing. It’s what I want to see for him. He’s one of the great designers.”

exactly my sentiment. nobody seems to be talking about how brilliant olivier was for OLIVIER. and i think right now we've reached a point of overkill when it comes to house brands and with so many new individual labels breaking out,i think it would be the perfect time for olivier to resurrect his namesake once again.

 

[Luxx]

exactly my sentiment. nobody seems to be talking about how brilliant olivier was for OLIVIER. and i think right now we've reached a point of overkill when it comes to house brands and with so many new individual labels breaking out,i think it would be the perfect time for olivier to resurrect his namesake once again.

Exactly. That would be the perfect outcome.

 

[HeatherAnne]

Did she just say "normore"? Really, Anne Slowey of Elle magazine?

Glad I'm not the only one who groaned at Slowey comments. That, and the statement about fashion catching up with him

I like that Phelps didn't sugarcoat his Theory tenure. It wasn't very good. Whether he or they are too blame from it, who knows. I'm sure he learned from the experience what kind of partner(s) he wants next, and will land in the right place.

 

[Alexei]

Loved him at Theory. A sense of ease and practicality, unlike what had come before. Such an immense talent - can't wait to see what's next for him.

 

[dior_couture1245]

According to vogue.es, rumour has it that he could go to Givenchy. To me it sounds really unlikely. Where would Tisci go? Plus, no matter how much I dislike Tisci, this is the first time Givenchy has an identity. It would be crazy if they decided to start again.

Anyway, I'm tired of Riccardo's gimmicks at the house and the Givenchy look is quite burnt already. New blood would be much appreciated, and no one better than Olivier to take the reigns of the brand.

I've heard rumors of Tisci leaving Givenchy, too - and that the announcement will be made this month. Wouldn't be surprised if Olivier does take over.

 

[VogueDisciple93]

I don't even care for Givenchy anymore, but this move would be the fashion news of the year. Tisci/Givenchy fans would implode.

 

[KatJenahMckey]

There were rumors of Giannini leaving Gucci and Tisci would presumably go there.

 

[mistress_f]

would it make sense for riccardo to leave givenchy at its peak, at least in terms of popularity??

 

[Pricciao]

Tom and Hedi left where they were at the peak of each's career path, didn't they?

 

[dodencebt]

I'd love Theyskens at Gucci, but Frida leaving is very unlikely to me unless she is planning on starting her own brand.