Theyskens’ Theory Is No More

[HeatherAnne]

Darn, I was hoping this meant they were parting ways for good.

Theyskens’ Theory Is No More

Apologies for the slightly jarring headline, but we felt it necessary to break this news without sugarcoating it.

Olivier Theyskens has oh-so-subtly dropped his moniker from contemporary brand Theory after having shown separate collections at the label for the past three years. The original goal of his Theyskens' Theory line, of course, was to elevate Theory's clean, tailored aesthetic to something much more editorial—a transition the fashion world embraced with open arms. But when editors arrived at Theory's Pre-Fall 2014 preview, they learned that the two different collections would be presented as one line under the Theory label—and would continue to be shown in the same way moving forward.

Both Theory and Theyskens are keeping mum on the specifics of this change, but Theyskens himself will continue to play a large part in the design process of the new Theory. Meaning, we can continue to look forward to Theyskens' signature silk linens and decidedly '90s influence.

That being said, we're curious to see how the new and improved Theory will execute Theyskens' high-fashion vision—not to mention how it will sell. We also expect Theyskens to start paying more attention to creating his custom couture pieces, which is perfectly timed considering that the 2014 awards season is fast approaching.

Regardless, it's time to take your silk-blend Theyskens' Theory blazer to the dry cleaner, stat: that thing is officially an antique, and it's worth trying to extend its closet shelf life for as long as humanly possible.

luckymag

 

[mistress_f]

^ so what does this mean? that the theory pre-fall collection in the other thread was designed / supervised by Olivier?
That's a random move, i thought theysken's theory was doing well? and i always preferred it to 'theory' anyway

 

[MyNameIs]

The article couldn't be written any less clearly. I had to read it twice just to understand what it was saying. At first I thought it meant Theyskens' Theory was now just Theory because Theyskens was starting another line. Then I realized it's the other way around. I didn't even realize there were two Theory lines to begin with, lol.

 

[Psylocke]

I first read about this news in the style.com review for the Theory collection and thought it was much less confusing than the posted article.

style.com

December 12, 2013
New York
By Matthew Schneier

Olivier Theyskens' Theory is now Theory. It is still Theyskens'. The simplification is largely nominal: That is, Theyksens himself is and has been artistic director over the entire Theory enterprise, so rather than continue both having a Theory collection and allowing the designer a subcollection of his own, the brand opted to unify it all under one label. It's a paring down in name, but a paring down in effect, too. Under the new Theory banner, Theyskens has restrained some of the more high-fashion impulses that made TT appealing to a privileged few and—in all honesty—head-scratching to a greater many. "We're focusing on our core," Theyskens said. It is core, after all, on which Theory was founded: first, great pants, then great basics overall.

There's still a heady enough hit of capital-F fashion for anyone who cares to find it here, albeit in a milder dose. Theyskens' basics are not necessarily the ones you'd expect; he was enthusing, for example, over a fine-gauge, mock-turtleneck cropped sweater—essentially a dickey—that he said he wanted to style into every look. What's more, he's retained an affection for a slouchy, gamine theory of layering and the barest suggestion of vintage (like the weathered-looking A-line skirts in washed silk). The palette remained Belgian somber—black, white, oyster, gray—and the emphasis was on styling, but not to a fault. (Theyskens showed most looks with oversized Margiela-style belts, but took care to emphasize that they'd work just as well without.) At the more elaborate end of the spectrum, like abstract paillette-embroidered cotton/wool dresses, Theyskens seemed most in his old element. But it was the simpler pieces here that were most in line with the new—that is to say, old—theory of Theory.

I'm personally not very happy about this move. I never cared for Theory but always looked forward to the TT collections. We don't need another show that's just full of 'cool, wearable basics' at NYFW. TT was the perfect HF/chic urbanwear mix. Very sad to see Theyskens focusing less and less on actual high fashion.

 

[HeatherAnne]

^ Thanks Psylocke!, I'm with all of you I found the first article confusing.

I'm personally not very happy about this move. I never cared for Theory but always looked forward to the TT collections. We don't need another show that's just full of 'cool, wearable basics' at NYFW. TT was the perfect HF/chic urbanwear mix. Very sad to see Theyskens focusing less and less on actual high fashion.

I agree, especially if Theory's Pre Fall collection is any indication of what we can expect in the future. It was a very watered down version of what Theyskens' Theory was, and uninteresting.

I really wish he would move on, he's too talented for Theory.

 

[softgrey]

FYI-
the sales staff at bloomingdale's this season told me that theory has upped their pricepoint across the board, so this fits in with that, imo...

put olivier in charge of it all and charge more for all of it, including menswear...
that's commerce for ya!

anyway-i have never been impressed with TT-
i saw a girl wearing the big item- the suit jacket with the cut away collar at the neck-
she looked like a big old sloppy mess...
not cool and chic at all...

i only like theory for suiting for the workplace...
*what they are good at and have been with or without theyskens...

i prefer vince for casual stuff at the same pricepoint...

 

[dior_couture1245]

His talent is so wasted here....

 

[Pricciao]

I was so keen to say yes for a decent price, but no. he has better place to go to other than here.