Paraffection : Artisans and Chanel

[BerlinRocks]

it seems tFS is really being watched by people. and i had to do some search about Paraffection. and couldn't find anything about this onto here, though we talk about the Artisans collections every season.

so, let's do some work.

here is what it is :
* from wikipedia

2002 saw the launch of Chance fragrance, with a scent of surprise and glamour. The House of Chanel also founded the Paraffection company that gathered the five (note that now, this is 7) Ateliers d’Art: Desrues for ornamentation, Lemarié for feathers and camellias, Lesage for embroidery, Massaro for shoemaking, and Michel for millinery. A prêt-à-porter collection proposing their know-how was designed by Karl Lagerfeld. It is now traditionally presented each December.

** for french readers, you can have a look to at this article.
here is an extract :

En outre,
comment l’artisan-fournisseur peut-il communiquer alors que la discrétion est contractuellement de mise?, s’interroge-t-on de suite. Il existe bien plusieurs organisations comme les Ateliers d’art de France, (...), les médiatiques remises annuelles de Prix du Talent du Luxe et de la Création ou encore le Prix Liliane Bettencourt pour l’Intelligence de la Main. Elles offriront une visibilité certaine à des artisans.

Cas unique : la force de frappe de la société indépendante Paraffection, créée par la maison Chanel en 1997 à l’occasion du rachat d’ateliers d’art. Des défilés sont organisés à travers le monde à l’attention de la presse locale pour mettre en valeur le savoir-faire de ces artisans français. Quelques 150 journalistes sont alors présents tous supports médiatiques confondus, dont 70% à l’international.

more french articles :
http://www.lexpansion.com/economie/chanel-chouchoute-ses-artisans-de-la-mode_26354.html

it seems (see here) that the idea of Paraffection Division (or is it a "brand" on its own ... subject for the fashion historians, there) has started with the buying of Maison Michel in 1996.
Maison Guillet was bought in 2006.

 

[mikeijames]

i heard about this some years ago. i think i brought it up in the "most overpriced" thread with reference to chanel.

 

[ilaughead]

I think the Karl threads might have some more information in them, I remember we were playing some sort of quiz thing talking about them at one point a year or two ago.

 

[BerlinRocks]

oh then sorry ...
but after a search i never found any "Paraffection" (with/by affection) on the search machine (either a thread or even the Paraffection name) ... so i thought i would open a thread ...

if it's unnecessary to have different thread. mods know they can merge.

Because it seems they really want to be different business ...

 

[ilaughead]

oh then sorry ...
but after a search i never found any "Paraffection" (with/by affection) on the search machine (either a thread or even the Paraffection name) ... so i thought i would open a thread ...

if it's unnecessary to have different thread. mods know they can merge.

Because it seems they really want to be different business ...

Ooh no! This definitely deserves its own thread, it is after all a pretty unique business strategy. (I think the Karl threads may use the term "satellite companies" or something else, but I have no idea.)

I really would like to know how independently they function from Chanel. Do they have a standing order to do all that Chanel wants and then they're allowed to do their own thing on the side?

 

[mikeijames]

yes, it's why it's in chanel's best interest to keep the idea and the institution of the couture alive. it probably explains why they put on such extravaganzas that raise everyone else's game. they're perpetuating a very way of life here....

 

[Crying Diamonds]

A few months ago, there was a big bit in Vanity Fair's little magazine On Couture about the different artisans that Chanel were saving and being used by other designers as a sign of loyalty.

 

[Street_a_Licious]

i know a couture designer who does use Lesage's service. after all, they DO excel in embroidery.

 

[BerlinRocks]

Here are some readings - in french and english

http://www.challenges.fr/magazine/enquete/0111.3037/ (FR)
http://www.lexpansion.com/economie/chanel-chouchoute-ses-artisans-de-la-mode_26354.html (FR)
http://lecercle.lesechos.fr/entrepr...tructurations-allier-savoir-faire-et-creation (FR)
http://www.entreprises.ccip.fr/c/do...548-c8d3-4f56-94c5-0672add20c04&groupId=10139 (FR - pdf)
http://madamededal.blogspot.com/2010/11/chanels-paraffection.html (PICTURES)
http://www.parisbao.com/tag/paraffection/ (PICTURES)
http://dailyluxury.blogspot.com/2007/12/les-mtiers-dart.html (EN)

Strandberg, Keith W., "Chanel Expands Independent Retailer Base," National Jeweler, July 1, 2002, p. 26.
Treacy, Karl, "Chanel Goes On Specialty House Spending Spree," Fashion World, July 2, 2002.
* I guess these last 2 are about Paraffection