Peter Hawkings - Designer

The important part is we should know for sure this or following week.

I did some research on the rumoured new guy last night - not personally convinced. Obviously I cannot say on a public forum, for obvious reasons.

I did also hear a more solid reason why Peter left. It was by mutual agreement. He wasn't just pushed out the door. Zegna wants to move everything (deign team etc) to Milan, so it's all within the same location, whereas Peter wanted to remain in London where the men's design team has been HQ'ed for years.
hahaha you have given me some clue, so 'new guy' and 'Milano'
I know when you said 'new guy' as in entering the house of TF, not new designer; but from that tone, clearly it’s not PPP or Stefano... I am reading this too much maybe

If Milano's new blood is doing sexy and free agent, I rather it be Nicola Brognano from ex-Blumarine and not Daniel Del Core. Nicola had a decent hype and track record
 
My biggest worry is that the new appointement will suck at tailoring. I know that following the current trend of oversized tailoring with huge shoulder pads will completely alienate the existing clientele that consists mostly of professional businessmen.
 
hahaha you have given me some clue, so 'new guy' and 'Milano'
I know when you said 'new guy' as in entering the house of TF, not new designer; but from that tone, clearly it’s not PPP or Stefano... I am reading this too much maybe

If Milano's new blood is doing sexy and free agent, I rather it be Nicola Brognano from ex-Blumarine and not Daniel Del Core. Nicola had a decent hype and track record
Nicola? lol

He was all hype who struck at the right moment and I say this as someone who likes what he did. His blumarine was “good” but it’s very one note and you can see what images were on his mood board as his garments are coming down the runway. What will be left after he rehashes Tom’s YSL collections? Not much imo. He’s hot though.
 
one ok! sexy dress does not equal a total & exciting vision for a brand like TF (even if Tom himself lagged at his own brand the modernity of his early gucci days , and i assume what he had hopped Peter would be naughty & driven enough to carve post his appointment out of the masters shadow )
 
one ok! sexy dress does not equal a total & exciting vision for a brand like TF (even if Tom himself lagged at his own brand the modernity of his early gucci days , and i assume what he had hopped Peter would be naughty & driven enough to carve post his appointment out of the masters shadow )

I was merely saying the dress looked good, no need to open that box another time - Although I will open up the blasphemy and say that infamous Gucci white jersey dress Tom Ford put on Georgina Granville has got to be one of the most uninteresting dresses designwise and I can only roll my eyes over the crazy overpricing a lot of Tom Ford for Gucci (as well as John Galliano for Dior) is experiencing right now.

People love the nostalgia or maybe the recognizability of those past fashion moments probably more than the actual design of the clothes, this is something I would not exclude Helmut Lang from, either, despite the fact my personal taste is much, much closer to him than Ford or Galliano.
 
The dress looks so much better on Camila than it does on the runway. Love it with the slicked chignon. Would have preferred no slit and a slightly longer, slinkier train.
 
I was merely saying the dress looked good, no need to open that box another time - Although I will open up the blasphemy and say that infamous Gucci white jersey dress Tom Ford put on Georgina Granville has got to be one of the most uninteresting dresses designwise and I can only roll my eyes over the crazy overpricing a lot of Tom Ford for Gucci (as well as John Galliano for Dior) is experiencing right now.

People love the nostalgia or maybe the recognizability of those past fashion moments probably more than the actual design of the clothes, this is something I would not exclude Helmut Lang from, either, despite the fact my personal taste is much, much closer to him than Ford or Galliano.
It’s an iconic dress because it captures a moment in time but indeed, it’s not extraordinary by any means even if using holes to display belts was a clever idea.

For me anyway, Tom Ford for Gucci really became interesting design and construction wise in 1999. And when he took over YSL, his Gucci designs became more and more ambitious.

But I think it was the mood of the time for the 1996 dresses. But the collections were very chic and the presentations were slick, so it’s understandable to see why it made such a buzz. I absolutely hate the FW1995 collection but it’s a fun show to watch…
 
It’s an iconic dress because it captures a moment in time but indeed, it’s not extraordinary by any means even if using holes to display belts was a clever idea.

For me anyway, Tom Ford for Gucci really became interesting design and construction wise in 1999. And when he took over YSL, his Gucci designs became more and more ambitious.

But I think it was the mood of the time for the 1996 dresses. But the collections were very chic and the presentations were slick, so it’s understandable to see why it made such a buzz. I absolutely hate the FW1995 collection but it’s a fun show to watch…

I always thought the SS‘01 dress on Kate Moss that also appeared in the campaign was one of Tom‘s finest, with it‘s elegant simplicity, but undeniable sex appeal - The bleach-blonde pixie haircut she had at the time gave this look a welcome contrast and the AD campaign was tasteful.

But alas, when people look back at Tom Ford, it‘s the flashier statements people celebrate.
 
I always thought the SS‘01 dress on Kate Moss that also appeared in the campaign was one of Tom‘s finest, with it‘s elegant simplicity, but undeniable sex appeal - The bleach-blonde pixie haircut she had at the time gave this look a welcome contrast and the AD campaign was tasteful.

But alas, when people look back at Tom Ford, it‘s the flashier statements people celebrate.
I like both because they both symbolize periods/side of Tom´s Gucci:
early TF Gucci retro more round soft mid century meets american sportswear ease Halston: the key hole dress that was inspired by the Charles and Ray eames la chaise that he was looking at for the series of evenwear was not so far from the jersey cut out from same FW 96 season that Helmut Lang did, the modernity that time was simplicity and ease of movement felt modern for both brands at the time TF gucci sleek conventional sexy HL sleek unconventional sexy to put it in simplistic terms. i love how crazy simple it was like a column yet so provocative revealing and not and then all white not common for sexy evening wear etc


Screenshot 2024-09-03 at 01.43.36.png

TF GGkey hole dress.jpg

74a8bfddce8263e44432db45bc3e1a70.jpg0340ab37fb6616f7608b47f171ac30e3.jpg


Gucci SS01 was the more dark sharp experimental modern side of Tom that in other shows past also had less of a warm press feedback but i agree they have just as much validity and strength as his more commercial collections ...the show had helmut newton images as reference that were more hard core and i loved how the campaign did the opposite with Marilyn Monroe picture as inspiration (Douglas Kirkland An Evening with Marilyn 1961) to soften it all up also one of me fav campaigns still more chic and modern than any recent gucci ad for sure.
ec9f313c166142f11532c39334a06eca.jpgcca64956e759d6a58cce1f8cadfd98bc.jpg

IMG054.jpeg
in 2021 LV used same idea form the series
louis-vuitton-capucines-leather-goods-campaign-collection-handbags-nicolas-ghesquiere-steven-m...jpg
 
I was merely saying the dress looked good, no need to open that box another time - Although I will open up the blasphemy and say that infamous Gucci white jersey dress Tom Ford put on Georgina Granville has got to be one of the most uninteresting dresses designwise and I can only roll my eyes over the crazy overpricing a lot of Tom Ford for Gucci (as well as John Galliano for Dior) is experiencing right now.

People love the nostalgia or maybe the recognizability of those past fashion moments probably more than the actual design of the clothes, this is something I would not exclude Helmut Lang from, either, despite the fact my personal taste is much, much closer to him than Ford or Galliano.
i love freedom of expression :-) it's fun to open new or reopen older dialog and blasphemy in conversation is part of that as well.
 

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