Peter Hawkings - Designer

[TomBlanksFullFatMiuMiu]

The important part is we should know for sure this or following week.

I did some research on the rumoured new guy last night - not personally convinced. Obviously I cannot say on a public forum, for obvious reasons.

I did also hear a more solid reason why Peter left. It was by mutual agreement. He wasn't just pushed out the door. Zegna wants to move everything (deign team etc) to Milan, so it's all within the same location, whereas Peter wanted to remain in London where the men's design team has been HQ'ed for years.

hahaha you have given me some clue, so 'new guy' and 'Milano'
I know when you said 'new guy' as in entering the house of TF, not new designer; but from that tone, clearly it’s not PPP or Stefano... I am reading this too much maybe

If Milano's new blood is doing sexy and free agent, I rather it be Nicola Brognano from ex-Blumarine and not Daniel Del Core. Nicola had a decent hype and track record

 

[LadyJunon]

My biggest worry is that the new appointement will suck at tailoring. I know that following the current trend of oversized tailoring with huge shoulder pads will completely alienate the existing clientele that consists mostly of professional businessmen.

 

[reese06]

hahaha you have given me some clue, so 'new guy' and 'Milano'
I know when you said 'new guy' as in entering the house of TF, not new designer; but from that tone, clearly it’s not PPP or Stefano... I am reading this too much maybe

If Milano's new blood is doing sexy and free agent, I rather it be Nicola Brognano from ex-Blumarine and not Daniel Del Core. Nicola had a decent hype and track record

Nicola? lol

He was all hype who struck at the right moment and I say this as someone who likes what he did. His blumarine was “good” but it’s very one note and you can see what images were on his mood board as his garments are coming down the runway. What will be left after he rehashes Tom’s YSL collections? Not much imo. He’s hot though.

 

[reese06]

Camila Queiroz at the Venice film festival in Tom ford f/w 2024 by Peter.

 

[tricotineacetat]

View attachment 1302291

Camila Queiroz at the Venice film festival in Tom ford f/w 2024 by Peter.

Say what you want about Peter, but that dress looks stunning and suits her perfectly!

 

[PDFSD]

one ok! sexy dress does not equal a total & exciting vision for a brand like TF (even if Tom himself lagged at his own brand the modernity of his early gucci days , and i assume what he had hopped Peter would be naughty & driven enough to carve post his appointment out of the masters shadow )

 

[tricotineacetat]

one ok! sexy dress does not equal a total & exciting vision for a brand like TF (even if Tom himself lagged at his own brand the modernity of his early gucci days , and i assume what he had hopped Peter would be naughty & driven enough to carve post his appointment out of the masters shadow )

I was merely saying the dress looked good, no need to open that box another time - Although I will open up the blasphemy and say that infamous Gucci white jersey dress Tom Ford put on Georgina Granville has got to be one of the most uninteresting dresses designwise and I can only roll my eyes over the crazy overpricing a lot of Tom Ford for Gucci (as well as John Galliano for Dior) is experiencing right now.

People love the nostalgia or maybe the recognizability of those past fashion moments probably more than the actual design of the clothes, this is something I would not exclude Helmut Lang from, either, despite the fact my personal taste is much, much closer to him than Ford or Galliano.

 

[lookatme]

The dress looks so much better on Camila than it does on the runway. Love it with the slicked chignon. Would have preferred no slit and a slightly longer, slinkier train.

 

[Lola701]

I was merely saying the dress looked good, no need to open that box another time - Although I will open up the blasphemy and say that infamous Gucci white jersey dress Tom Ford put on Georgina Granville has got to be one of the most uninteresting dresses designwise and I can only roll my eyes over the crazy overpricing a lot of Tom Ford for Gucci (as well as John Galliano for Dior) is experiencing right now.

People love the nostalgia or maybe the recognizability of those past fashion moments probably more than the actual design of the clothes, this is something I would not exclude Helmut Lang from, either, despite the fact my personal taste is much, much closer to him than Ford or Galliano.

It’s an iconic dress because it captures a moment in time but indeed, it’s not extraordinary by any means even if using holes to display belts was a clever idea.

For me anyway, Tom Ford for Gucci really became interesting design and construction wise in 1999. And when he took over YSL, his Gucci designs became more and more ambitious.

But I think it was the mood of the time for the 1996 dresses. But the collections were very chic and the presentations were slick, so it’s understandable to see why it made such a buzz. I absolutely hate the FW1995 collection but it’s a fun show to watch…

 

[tricotineacetat]

It’s an iconic dress because it captures a moment in time but indeed, it’s not extraordinary by any means even if using holes to display belts was a clever idea.

For me anyway, Tom Ford for Gucci really became interesting design and construction wise in 1999. And when he took over YSL, his Gucci designs became more and more ambitious.

But I think it was the mood of the time for the 1996 dresses. But the collections were very chic and the presentations were slick, so it’s understandable to see why it made such a buzz. I absolutely hate the FW1995 collection but it’s a fun show to watch…

I always thought the SS‘01 dress on Kate Moss that also appeared in the campaign was one of Tom‘s finest, with it‘s elegant simplicity, but undeniable sex appeal - The bleach-blonde pixie haircut she had at the time gave this look a welcome contrast and the AD campaign was tasteful.

But alas, when people look back at Tom Ford, it‘s the flashier statements people celebrate.

 

[PDFSD]

I always thought the SS‘01 dress on Kate Moss that also appeared in the campaign was one of Tom‘s finest, with it‘s elegant simplicity, but undeniable sex appeal - The bleach-blonde pixie haircut she had at the time gave this look a welcome contrast and the AD campaign was tasteful.

But alas, when people look back at Tom Ford, it‘s the flashier statements people celebrate.

I like both because they both symbolize periods/side of Tom´s Gucci:
early TF Gucci retro more round soft mid century meets american sportswear ease Halston: the key hole dress that was inspired by the Charles and Ray eames la chaise that he was looking at for the series of evenwear was not so far from the jersey cut out from same FW 96 season that Helmut Lang did, the modernity that time was simplicity and ease of movement felt modern for both brands at the time TF gucci sleek conventional sexy HL sleek unconventional sexy to put it in simplistic terms. i love how crazy simple it was like a column yet so provocative revealing and not and then all white not common for sexy evening wear etc









Gucci SS01 was the more dark sharp experimental modern side of Tom that in other shows past also had less of a warm press feedback but i agree they have just as much validity and strength as his more commercial collections ...the show had helmut newton images as reference that were more hard core and i loved how the campaign did the opposite with Marilyn Monroe picture as inspiration (Douglas Kirkland An Evening with Marilyn 1961) to soften it all up also one of me fav campaigns still more chic and modern than any recent gucci ad for sure.



in 2021 LV used same idea form the series

 

[PDFSD]

I was merely saying the dress looked good, no need to open that box another time - Although I will open up the blasphemy and say that infamous Gucci white jersey dress Tom Ford put on Georgina Granville has got to be one of the most uninteresting dresses designwise and I can only roll my eyes over the crazy overpricing a lot of Tom Ford for Gucci (as well as John Galliano for Dior) is experiencing right now.

People love the nostalgia or maybe the recognizability of those past fashion moments probably more than the actual design of the clothes, this is something I would not exclude Helmut Lang from, either, despite the fact my personal taste is much, much closer to him than Ford or Galliano.

i love freedom of expression :-) it's fun to open new or reopen older dialog and blasphemy in conversation is part of that as well.

 

[chriswiles]

Backstory? Interesting word...... young blood or old behind the scenes?
If not Stefano, please don't tell me it's Ludovic de Saint Sernin or Laquan Smith because they are going to bring sex back to TF
What if PPP?

We know now: Haider Ackermann

 

[LadyJunon]

We know now: Haider Ackermann

Girl/Boy/NB, leave this thread to rot now. We've moved to a better home: Haider Ackermann - Designer, Creative Director of Canada Goose & Tom Ford

 

[fashionlov]

Does anyone have any idea what he's up to now? To be honest, I preferred him to Haider Ackermann's austere and cold direction.

 

[brandon J pierre]

Does anyone have any idea what he's up to now? To be honest, I preferred him to Haider Ackermann's austere and cold direction.

He did put of two good shows .

 

[TurkicMongol]

View attachment 1302291

Camila Queiroz at the Venice film festival in Tom ford f/w 2024 by Peter.

I must be in the minority who like Hawkings' TF better. This dress is not fresh or tasteful by TFS standards, but if you ask any average guy's opinion, no one would say NO.

 

[tourbillions]

I must be in the minority who like Hawkings' TF better. This dress is not fresh or tasteful by TFS standards, but if you ask any average guy's opinion, no one would say NO.

so far i havent seen anyone who didn't like hawkings TF. i think my problem was the setting of his shows which didnt highlight the collection.

 

[Lola701]

I must be in the minority who like Hawkings' TF better. This dress is not fresh or tasteful by TFS standards, but if you ask any average guy's opinion, no one would say NO.

His Tom Ford wasn’t terrible but it didn’t pushed the brand forward and more than that, out of the territory of Redcarpet dressing.
Most women don’t attend Redcarpet events daily. And what somehow Tom Ford not connect with women at his own brand the way he connected with men at the same brand was that it was mostly seen as a Redcarpet brand.

And when you are doing this kind of « reductive » vavavoom sexy dressing, after seeing countless column dresses, where do we go?

Hawkings TF’s looked maybe like an updated and nervous version of Tom but it lacked the humor and the sophistication in the details. I remember some ugly gold buttons on the peacoats of his second collection.

I would have hated for Tom Ford to be like Ermano Scervino after a while.

 

[PDFSD]

so far i havent seen anyone who didn't like hawkings TF. i think my problem was the setting of his shows which didnt highlight the collection.

i did not !!
it was to weak & obvious commercial , not new or fresh enough on top of that empty head as the studio said he had nothing to say just repeating same words.

like many long term nr 2 of creative directors many don't have a own voice and are good or loyal to follow a lead of the creative mind but the cant build the world on their own.

being a (boss) leader or a good soldier are two different talents , people keep betting on proximity to a creative director equals same creative leadership or talents .
at best they can rub off on a nr 2 but that's it.

in a way its way LVMH tends to go for creative directors already doing their own brand or at a house.
they do try with nr 2´s like i know a nr 2 that got pucci but declined in the end, later again givenchy runner up next to another creative and lost out on this to a publicly know creative director .

because to actually make a vision & be commercially successful for a house your need a different talent and mind set at few long term nr 2 have or else they would have left already or started their own thing or by luck be next in line to take over following drama like Blazy , like Michelle, Frida, Virginie etc