Phoebe Philo - Designer

[lookatme]

The suit on Kendall looks nice. Hate the look on Sonam. Linda’s outfit is fine.

 

[StylishCynic]

I'm curious about the price tag for those hand-combed embroidered coats that were labeled as “POA” on the website.

The Cream Hand-Combed Coat is $35,000. It's made to order. The one hanging in BG is a sample.

The good news for Phoebe Philo (the brand) is that BG has had high sell-through across all categories. All Drive bags are gone, as were all sunglasses and jewelry. (Maybe they had 2 rings, but I can't recall.)

With many items sold out, the rtw bars now feature repeat pieces of rtw –upright collar shirts, the shirting "t-shirts", the pinstripe trousers, the same 2-3 suit jackets– to keep the racks full.

The bad news for Phoebe Philo (the woman) is that her proposition becomes quite apathetic when the shop-in-shop is merchandised with so much of so few pieces. It quickly reminds one of COS where all the sizes of an item hang next to each other on the clothing bar.

The salesperson was quick to offer that they're waiting on a restock delivery.

 

[IloveDiorHomme]

The tailoring on Kendall’s suit is great.
Not sure about Linda's outfit though…

 

[Lola701]

I’m not sold on Linda’s outfit because it’s just too loose for my taste.
I don’t know why people like to wear things as a set nowadays but I think she needed a different top, something more structured.

Those pieces looks good nevertheless.

 

[avonlea002]

The pants Linda is wearing are hideous. There is just something cheap about all the outfits deango posted.

 

[yslforever]

The Cream Hand-Combed Coat is $35,000. It's made to order. The one hanging in BG is a sample.

The good news for Phoebe Philo (the brand) is that BG has had high sell-through across all categories. All Drive bags are gone, as were all sunglasses and jewelry. (Maybe they had 2 rings, but I can't recall.)

With many items sold out, the rtw bars now feature repeat pieces of rtw –upright collar shirts, the shirting "t-shirts", the pinstripe trousers, the same 2-3 suit jackets– to keep the racks full.

The bad news for Phoebe Philo (the woman) is that her proposition becomes quite apathetic when the shop-in-shop is merchandised with so much of so few pieces. It quickly reminds one of COS where all the sizes of an item hang next to each other on the clothing bar.

The salesperson was quick to offer that they're waiting on a restock delivery.

Reminder that this Hand-Combed Coat is made in Madagascar, (in viscose), the companies are reliable, the employees are skilled and trained, have several benefits, they do work a lot for haute couture, they even do a lot for Hermès (like the part where the scarves are rolled at the border), but they are still low wages around 400 USD a month....
The companies there were founded and managed by French former textiles executive who found there the exact wage structure, social benefits than in France but at much lesser costs, which enables then to a lot of hand works, like embroideries, plissés etc...
So on that 35,000 coat, its max 400 on labor to hand comb and assemble the viscose....

 

[chinsumo]

 

[Lola701]

The one thing I love about the Phoebe Philo thing is seeing celebrities wear clothes they purchased. Even if some are styled, it’s refreshing to have that « organic » feel from a celebrity.
No gifts, partnerships or anything. I love that! And I hope she never changes her tune regarding that.

 

[PDFSD]

Reminder that this Hand-Combed Coat is made in Madagascar, (in viscose), the companies are reliable, the employees are skilled and trained, have several benefits, they do work a lot for haute couture, they even do a lot for Hermès (like the part where the scarves are rolled at the border), but they are still low wages around 400 USD a month....
The companies there were founded and managed by French former textiles executive who found there the exact wage structure, social benefits than in France but at much lesser costs, which enables then to a lot of hand works, like embroideries, plissés etc...
So on that 35,000 coat, its max 400 on labor to hand comb and assemble the viscose....

Yes old Celine pieces were made there as well when Phoebe was there especially shirts
but many more brands as well:

Dior, Chanel, or Hermes LV…. These major haute couture houses have put their trust in the Malagasy textile industries for their ready-to-wear products. An important part of the country’s economic and industrial fabric, the garment industry in Madagascar has currently become a real Eldorado for the largest brands.

A sector with high economic potential, the textile and clothing in Madagascar account for 19.35% of GDP.
Moreover, the share of textiles in the country’s total exports in 2019 was respectively 69%, 60%, and 64% during the first and the second quarter of 2020.
Textiles are among the five priority sectors providing jobs and foreign currencies. It is also the largest employer of labor after agriculture.

The outsourced presence of haute couture houses in Madagascar testifies to the growth of textiles in the country and contributes to the attraction of more and more famous brands. With its human capital, the country is planning a program related to free zone companies that will create 200,000 jobs in synergy with the public and private sectors by 2027.

Also fast fashion makes clothes there like ZARA

 

[yslforever]

Yes old Celine pieces were made there as well when Phoebe was there especially shirts
but many more brands as well:

Dior, Chanel, or Hermes LV…. These major haute couture houses have put their trust in the Malagasy textile industries for their ready-to-wear products. An important part of the country’s economic and industrial fabric, the garment industry in Madagascar has currently become a real Eldorado for the largest brands.

A sector with high economic potential, the textile and clothing in Madagascar account for 19.35% of GDP.
Moreover, the share of textiles in the country’s total exports in 2019 was respectively 69%, 60%, and 64% during the first and the second quarter of 2020.
Textiles are among the five priority sectors providing jobs and foreign currencies. It is also the largest employer of labor after agriculture.

The outsourced presence of haute couture houses in Madagascar testifies to the growth of textiles in the country and contributes to the attraction of more and more famous brands. With its human capital, the country is planning a program related to free zone companies that will create 200,000 jobs in synergy with the public and private sectors by 2027.

Also fast fashion makes clothes there like ZARA

View attachment 1265993

Yes, some companies like Akanjo have all the international certifications by now, but my point was not to diss Malagasy workers, who are indeed greatly talented, my point was to focus on the Phoebe Coat price tag, which isn't collerated with the cost of the hand work, because it's really just a tiny fraction of the in-store price, even though they are using that "hand-made" label to try to justify it.

 

[Kennnnn]

Yes, quite a bit of old Celine was made in Madagascar, the shirting especially. It used to puzzle me.

The pricing is dishonest, and it's exploitative. Imagine if Madagascar were still a French colony - they would have probably just slapped the "Made in France" label on the clothes, and the consumer would have been none the wiser.

 

[chinsumo]

 

[Lola701]

I like this news! It’s a pity Hedi never participated btw…

 

[PDFSD]

Yes, some companies like Akanjo have all the international certifications by now, but my point was not to diss Malagasy workers, who are indeed greatly talented, my point was to focus on the Phoebe Coat price tag, which isn't correlated with the cost of the hand work, because it's really just a tiny fraction of the in-store price, even though they are using that "hand-made" label to try to justify it.

The whole made in ...country is a can of worms and riddled with myths, as you know in China you have good factories more advanced for some products and categories then in italy you have also sub par ones using low cost & unfair labor etc
Cost of living in a country can be lower thus labor also lesser expensive than another one this we should also take in account.

I am sure you can agree end price of luxury items have very little to do with actual cost :-) also the lower quantities you do something even if made to order the factory has to calculate the time lost on this few pieces that would have been allocated to other more lucrative production.
Luxury factories also have high minimum of 100 mq plus some do it at 50 mq or 30 or even 10 because you have other higher quantities for other items etc

The Phoebe piece i have not seen in IRL so i can't judge how well or what the layering construction is also if the edges are hand frayed it's like couture then takes a lot of time etc, you have Chloe chiffon dresses for 27K now so i think a lot of prices are for show and set the tone for the brands aura, as much as one can hate it but price plays a role in luxury positioning and branding, and when you have enough clients with no price resistance you need to shoot your shot to generate interest for this level as well.

I think it's a must for her brand to have these extreme pieces with extreme price tags , like tom ford did post gucci even if more obvious luxury style setting the bar high for a non existing luxury brand is part of the positioning when you have to compete with houses that have been there 50 or 100 years already.

 

[PDFSD]

Yes, quite a bit of old Celine was made in Madagascar, the shirting especially. It used to puzzle me.

The pricing is dishonest, and it's exploitative. Imagine if Madagascar were still a French colony - they would have probably just slapped the "Made in France" label on the clothes, and the consumer would have been none the wiser.

its short sighted to say it's dishonest for her to have made in Madagascar more than made in italy by slave workers making luxury brand bags or LV factory in Romania doing parts that are then send to france or italy for just put a made in france label in it and done all well documented , hermes in vietnam (lackerd home wear ) etc

​

 

[chinsumo]

Tilda Swinton in Phoebe Philo

 

[FashionFanatico]

very unfortunate - if you see what i see...

 

[Cocteau Stone]

All zipped up it is rather scrotal looking. Although I don't mind it with the long skirt and unzipped. This is the issue with padded bombers and "down jackets". If there's not enough quilting or stabilising of the filling, it all just heaps downwards a little more than it should.

If someone said this were a Rick Owens or current Marni or even Jil, I'd be none the wiser. It's kind of nothing and also "everything but" at the same time.

 

[GoldenTribe]

The first picture looks like a female tourist on Jupiter who forget to bring her anti-gravity brassiere.

Other brands including Bottega Veneta and The Row have been dabbling in this silhouette (lightweight synthetics with voluminous sleeves/bottoms rounded off with cinch-cords) but it never quite looks convincingly "luxury" to me.

 

[blueorchid]

As someone who lives in a dumb place where it can get to like -30C in the winter sometimes, I always think "must be nice" to have a down jacket that doesn't actually have to keep you warm... meanwhile, like a pleb, I must research down coats on athletic/sportswear sites to make sure their coats are truly rated for cold weather. Anyway... finally, it's spring. 🥶