Phoebe Philo - Designer

[90sfan]

Everything by her is pricey as hell but I think it’s way less pretentious than anything Matthieu is doing at Chanel. Her clothes has never been about intellectual-ugliness.

Since when being old is embarrassing? Older women are the people that can actually afford

If not Talia then who do you thing should take the photos

Honestly, Phoebe should do it herself. Would be less contrived and less retro

 

[90sfan]

So is Demna no?

No. Demna is at least relevant for today. In 20 years time when you see Phoebe Philo collections, you won’t know if its Philo
Or some randomness from the 80s Italian ELLE magazine. At least Demna is modern and of now.

 

[PDFSD]

No. Demna is at least relevant for today. In 20 years time when you see Phoebe Philo collections, you won’t know if its Philo
Or some randomness from the 80s Italian ELLE magazine. At least Demna is modern and of now.

Rember Phoebe Celine is from 2008 that's already 18 years ago lol
Demna did only 10 years at balenciaga (2015－2025) and is a copy of Margiela at Berghain. his whole art schtick is appropriation / copy of a copy

Phoebe will do just fine in next years to come , Demna should worry about AI replacing him lol and not being fired from gucci in next 2 years.

relevancy is subjective and also not a static thing he lost his relevance already at the end years of his version of balenciaga which he has to proof now again at gucci.

 

[Frederic01]

€ 2.000 for a Made In Slovakia jacket? Hmmmm....same place of production as COS, etc. Probably the same factory lmao!


PHOEBE PHILO

 

[PDFSD]

€ 2.000 for a Made In Slovakia jacket? Hmmmm....same place of production as COS, etc. Probably the same factory lmao!

View attachment 1464594
PHOEBE PHILO

Prada and LV makes stuff there for years its not lesser than made in italy by chinese slave workers

2000 is a good price in 2026

its all about having the right factory in any country not what country Slovakia is a member of the European Union any ways

 

[Frida]

Phoebe Philo’s Collection E: It’s Just Clothes, and That’s More Than Enough​

​

Phoebe Philo’s clothes are just clothes, presented in a direct way freed of the demands of catwalk theatrics. Collection E, however, is trickier.​

March 19, 2026
By Alexander Fury

“It’s just clothes.” That’s what an editor said to me about Phoebe Philo’s various alphabet spaghetti-monikered collections over the past few years. She meant that as the highest of compliments, and she is both right and wrong. Philo’s clothes are just clothes, presented in a direct way freed of the demands of catwalk theatrics. Those don’t have to mean Galliano-level histrionics – in the attention-grabbing petri-dish of a show, just as big gets even bigger, minimalism gets more minimal, sloppy sloppier, etc etc. Philo’s clothes, by contrast, are quietly unveiled in lookbooks and dropped incrementally (the latest, Collection E, begins deliveries in June). They have a resolute reality to them.





59Phoebe Philo Collection E

They are also influential. While Philo’s work for Celine continues to be pored over for influence. Furry shoes, which Philo basically invented in 2012 (via Méret Oppenheim’s 1936 gazelle-smothered teacup, but still) have emerged as a micro-trend, and three of her former colleagues now head different major fashion houses – Daniel Lee at Burberry, Matthieu Blazy at Chanel, and Michael Rider back at Celine. Her own label designs have resonated, with similar heft. Her iffy, off fits, twisted fullness around the body, her use of industrial fastenings, and small touches like blunt-toe shoes and weird jewellery (especially her cluster earrings) have all filtered into other designers’ collections since Philo launched herself back into the fashion industry three years ago. Essentially, they’ve become the fashion of our time. Accordingly, the label’s turnover tripled in 2025, consisting of women (and men, including me) reacting to the rightness of what she does, and not a few copyists grabbing pieces to rip off at various levels.

So here is more. Collection E, however, is trickier, much ado about specific fabrications, some washed (“loved” in the Philo phraseology), some pressed into stiff ridges as if freshly unpacked from a longer and pressurised slumber, others just plainly expensive, like different weights of leather and various treatments of shearling. That material occurs frequently, in long-haired form with tips dyed in variegated shades of blonde and brunette, or in weird colours like black cherry or inky blue. Those petroleum, vaguely 1980s hues are a mood of the upcoming season as a whole, and Philo is plugged in – there was also a tart acid yellow, best in a chewed-up looking wool melange, and a red the colour of dried and scabbing blood. Often, the luxurious fabrics are cut into unconventionally casual shapes, frequently tracksuits or pyjamas – there are trousers to the former in parachute-fine leather or a cashmere velvet, and the shearling is shaved into drawstring pyjamas, and coats that look like hotel dressing gowns. There are also what Philo calls ‘Utility twinsets’, which are actually matching big trousers and bigger shirts in cotton, like industrial uniforms.

Philo originally described her collection as “a seasonless, continuous body of work”, which is why a few things feel reassuringly familiar – the Strap trousers, for instance, were offered a few seasons ago in grey and here in black, for those who regret not buying them the first time around. A cropped bomber jacket is proposed in brown leather, versus cognac or black nylon before. There’s a navy cotton utility jacket with big patched pockets that Philo proposed before, in brown – Google that, and see its dozen or so rip-offs currently in rotation.

Philo’s swings hard when it comes to ideas for evening – namely because, after a fashion (and, indeed awards) season of ‘done-ness’, of elaborate dresses and feathers and furs and draping, they are so resolutely down-at-heel. Long dresses either resemble lingerie, or elongated T-shirts. A short-sleeved one is in shiny silk, while another has long sleeves but is barcoded with transparent panels. Those include one across the breasts, and the style is called ‘Stacked’, which counters anyone claiming Philo doesn’t have a sense of humour. Likewise, leather bib-and-brace waders with all the trimmings are worn over bared skin as a slightly tough-sell alternative to an evening dress. There are also tuxedo trousers dragging an incongruous train off one leg, which is actually structured with crin and boning to hold its weight. It’s worn with a cotton T-shirt that resembles army underwear, with patches on its shoulder. God, it would be great if someone had worn that to the Oscars.

anothermag.com

 

[PDFSD]

E drop is so good love the evolution...... i want some rtw so bad wish this was her for hermes.

 

[FashioNarrating]

I liked her previous drop(s) and she obvi always delivers strong eyewear, crisp shirts and good tailoring, but it's starting to feel somewhat trite as a whole. At this point one knows there is going to be a bunch of bombers and oversized tops and pants on Binx + 3 other models with obligatory closeups of fur, glossy lids/lips and red shoes to make it more "sensual" and "fun". I get that she's focused on emphasizing her signature and the quality rather than dictating seasonal trends, but some fresher propositions wouldn't hurt. How 'bout some slimmer trousers for a change, or an interesting coat silhouette for those who don't want a leather jacket, or some denim since it did so well at both Céline and Chloé, or a new bag style that is less flat, or some stylish boots since women do need those in the winter??
I really don't think asking for a bit of variety and fash!on oomph from luxury brands is too much, one can get nice 'staples' anywhere nowadays.

 

[PDFSD]

going to stare at these looks , to heal my eye site after this dreadful fashion weeks lol

Phoebephilo.com

 

[impossibletruelove]

I love the studded jacket/bomber piece… but it’s like, more than 15k USD dollars 😭 Any idea why it’s so expensive?!! It’s similar to Hermes pricing/more…

 

[Lola701]

I love the studded jacket/bomber piece… but it’s like, more than 15k USD dollars 😭 Any idea why it’s so expensive?!! It’s similar to Hermes pricing/more…

You should not ask yourself about Hermes’s price point but rather « will Hermes ever do it? ».
Alaia’s leather (under Azzedine) was sometimes as as expensive as Hermes but you won’t get the cut and details at Hermes no matter how great their leather is.

 

[fruitdots]

It's funny how we're not even three years into the project/brand, and she has her foot on everyone's throats. That pleated trench is better than anything a competitor has offered in years.

I've had my gripes about Phoebe Philo (the brand, not the person), especially the earlier collections, but god is she hitting the gas pedal now. The shapes are getting really good, there's more colour and pattern, the furs are exquisite. I don't want to rush anything, but I really am looking forward to seeing where things stand in another 3-4 years.

 

[impossibletruelove]

You should not ask yourself about Hermes’s price point but rather « will Hermes ever do it? ».
Alaia’s leather (under Azzedine) was sometimes as as expensive as Hermes but you won’t get the cut and details at Hermes no matter how great their leather is.

Omg Lola.. the persuasion is working 😭
My justification for Philo is.. why not get the original thing when everyone else is copying her…

If the jacket is still there during Christmas/New Years… I’ll get it! 😍

 

[impossibletruelove]

It's funny how we're not even three years into the project/brand, and she has her foot on everyone's throats. That pleated trench is better than anything a competitor has offered in years.

I've had my gripes about Phoebe Philo (the brand, not the person), especially the earlier collections, but god is she hitting the gas pedal now. The shapes are getting really good, there's more colour and pattern, the furs are exquisite. I don't want to rush anything, but god I am looking forward to seeing where things stand in another 3-4 years.

I only buy from outlets now… the last big purchase I made was from Prada, a special order back in 2019. But I do like what Philo is doing. The pieces look so luxurious in the photos 😖 but so EXPENSIVE for a 3 year old brand 😭😭

I’m sure in 10 years the pieces will retain its value like her Celine pieces.. or it may not

 

[impossibletruelove]

It’s the same price as a vintage croc Kelly 😫

Either I eat bean sprouts for dinner or scam my bank for loan 😖

 

[fruitdots]

It’s the same price as a vintage croc Kelly 😫

Either I eat bean sprouts for dinner or scam my bank to a loan 😖

I support white collar crime for Phoebe Philo.

 

[Monsieur Cristobal]

The collection is not wow to me but I enjoy a designer claiming her own territory, afte being copied by everybody and their neighbours.

From the 15 brands doing PPhilo, she remains the best 🤣 and she will show others that it is possible to stablish your own house with your own rules.

For a while, I thought she would be perfect for Chanel instead of Matthieu, but I was wrong.
She doesn't need to work for Chanel, because maybe she will become a new Gabrielle Chanel, in her own style and terms.

 

[FashioNarrating]

I love the studded jacket/bomber piece… but it’s like, more than 15k USD dollars 😭 Any idea why it’s so expensive?!! It’s similar to Hermes pricing/more…

Because they decided it should be (extra expensive). Tbh I would like the belt 'cause it's the best part of the jacket imo, but even that would probably cost £2,000 since a thin one with a single row of those hexagonal studs is £750.