Phoebe Philo - Designer

[THD96]

The textures, the cut, the silhouettes are insanely good. This is easily one of her best drop for her brand, this is even on par with some of her best Céline collections.

The budget is budgeting, Phoebe is Phoebe-ing and I love to see it.

 

[tricotineacetat]

The collection is not wow to me but I enjoy a designer claiming her own territory, afte being copied by everybody and their neighbours.

From the 15 brands doing PPhilo, she remains the best 🤣 and she will show others that it is possible to stablish your own house with your own rules.

For a while, I thought she would be perfect for Chanel instead of Matthieu, but I was wrong.
She doesn't need to work for Chanel, because maybe she will become a new Gabrielle Chanel, in her own style and terms.

People like to draw this comparison but I feel it doesn't really apply in our age, where designers don't really question 'the habit of dressing' in a similar way as in the 20th century where women's dress was closely tied to changing social roles and norms; perhaps in that regard, Jil Sander was a closer contender, with her designs closely linked to their performance and activity.

Perhaps this is the most frustrating part (at least for me) about fashion in our today's time; fashion acts a lot like costumes people put on but that don't really cut deeper, neither technically nor socially implying changes of how people dress.

 

[Lola701]

Omg Lola.. the persuasion is working 😭
My justification for Philo is.. why not get the original thing when everyone else is copying her…

If the jacket is still there during Christmas/New Years… I’ll get it! 😍

I only buy from outlets now… the last big purchase I made was from Prada, a special order back in 2019. But I do like what Philo is doing. The pieces look so luxurious in the photos 😖 but so EXPENSIVE for a 3 year old brand 😭😭

I’m sure in 10 years the pieces will retain its value like her Celine pieces.. or it may not

Ahaha! Tbh I would not spend 15K on one item from anybody. I would rather take a trip somewhere lol.
But if there’s a designer where I would, Phoebe would be one.
I think today, in terms of design and also the quality of their leather, I can count on Phoebe, Nicolas and Sarah (Burton). They knows about leather, dramatic shapes, impact and a certain timelessness.

It’s not even a question of years.
Vaccarello does those dramatic leather pieces for quite some time at YSL. The brand was created in 1961…I would go to Acne Studios for my leather before buying a YSL piece. I always find something that bother me about Vaccarello’s leather pieces up close.

It ties a bit with the discussion we had with @tricotineacetat on the Galliano thread. The question of practicality, on even design details, how it integrates in the lifestyle and how much it would impact how often you may wear it. I don’t think value is that important…I mean, if someone told me in 2009 that Margiela by Martin would become so covetable, I don’t think I would have ever believed it.

But Phoebe is one of the few designers who solidified her place in the pantheon of modern fashion.

Think about the women who spend an awful amount of money at Giambattista Valli. Buying a hat from La Bomba collection of Jacquemus would have been more valuable!

 

[90sfan]

She’s getting more and more commercial with each drop which is disappointing. The presentation this time is also a little better by Alisdair Mclellan than previously “art” nonsense by Talia Chetrit. Overall, i might buy a pair of thise black pants, that i’ll never ever wear hahhahhaa

 

[FashioNarrating]

She is stuck, very stuck. I know it´s her style and etc...but more oversized coats with 80s shoulders? More oversized pants and tops? More trio bags??

When she launched her brand, I thought she was going to evolve from her Céline days. But she is still there...
Also I miss her surprise factor. Now she has become predictable.

I actually thought collection D was bolder and more adventurous, with unusual proposals such as the pairing of fluffy padded tops with long frayed denim shorts, rather compelling versions of stuff she previously did (furry pants, tailored jackets with an elasticated waist) and some great accessories like the standout strappy sandals. Not sure why she decided to take a few steps back into oversized uniformity and I'm also not sure why are people calling the new one a progress since it's probably the plainest she's done so far for her brand.

Images via phoebephilo.com

 

[Nimsay]

What is plain about these clothes ??? That white top is exquisite the drape on the tweed blazer is stunning. Even the way the t shirt is made it is clear it was draped not flat patterned.

 

[FashioNarrating]

What is plain about these clothes ??? That white top is exquisite the drape on the tweed blazer is stunning. Even the way the t shirt is made it is clear it was draped not flat patterned.

^You may want to read the comment more carefully, I said those pieces (from collection D) are something else indeed, while the latest drop (collection E) looks comparatively plain and not that exciting.

 

[philophile]

It's her worst drop yet. It's mostly plain and boring. I really had the hope that she would continue the playfulness and that magic touch she had at Céline, but no, now she's going full-blown quiet luxury. There's is little to no creativity in all of this. I can only appreciate how well made the clothes look, but they are indeed bland.

 

[Kite]

For the amount of HYPE and effort and horror stories around this woman's working demeanour, how she insights fear amongst her team at the same time as being crippled with an inferiority complex, Ripping up entire collections and starting from scratch days before, the clothes do not warrant the attention and drama that surround them.

 

[MulletProof]

^ you’re right about some of the hype but just for reference, the multiple reviews on the alleged work environment were all coming from the same person, who even had the nerve to sign up here and come for those questioning his/her credibility… only to fully delete his account lol..

 

[Lola701]

Considering what has been her design trajectory and that her work at her own brand seems to be in complete alignment to that design trajectory, I always wonder if it’s fair to expect her to just go back to what she was as a designer in 2008/2009.
She is surely a different woman today. Could she design like she did years ago? If she re-did those same collections, are we sure the outcome will be the same?
The same way that she was a quite different designer at Celine than she was at Chloe…Maybe not technically but surely from a pure aesthetic POV.

I see a lot of repetitions, variations of things but the approach is different to what she did at Celine.
Celine felt more like a seasonal statement and this feels like an ongoing conversation…

I also think that her clientele must be a bit different than it was at Celine because yes the color palette and all are rather but she is doing some very daring things shape wise like the top @FashioNarrating showed that she would have never shown at Celine or Chloe.

 

[KilltheLook]

I believe there's an interview/review a few season ago that mentioned Phoebe Philo is for the rude woman (in a complimentary way), and I totally see it now. This is the woman who doesn't dress for anyone but herself. And she's more cool because of that. Most straight men would not be attracted to the Phoebe's women (and it's fine because we have the Dior and YSL women for that). But truly, problematic at work or not, Phoebe might be the last great designer of our generation.

 

[Pastry]

horror stories around this woman's working demeanour

the multiple reviews on the alleged work environment were all coming from the same person

yikes. i hope it's nothing more than an immature smear campaign. when i find out that someone in a leadership position is that inept at human relations i really start to view their entire body of work differently. i wouldn't be surprised though; a lot of top positions in fashion are given to individually high-performing people with no emotional intelligence whatsoever.
regardless of personality, philo's clothes have become collectors items. i remember seeing a beautiful chloé pistachio silk charmeuse dress on net-a-porter around 2004 and being like, yeah that's a stylish piece that's gonna get you compliments for years. i will add that she has a very good eye for shape and proportion, which feels kind of healing at a time when there's so many flanges and extreme shapes protruding from the body.

 

[SophiaVB]

What happens when she gets to collection Z?

 

[PDFSD]

For the amount of HYPE and effort and horror stories around this woman's working demeanour, how she insights fear amongst her team at the same time as being crippled with an inferiority complex, Ripping up entire collections and starting from scratch days before, the clothes do not warrant the attention and drama that surround them.

no lies detected first of all ....knowing current and past workers but many gay male designers do the same from my own personal experience.(there you even have the added layer of male gay culture issues and misogyny in the studio at play on top)

she is demanding and changes all the time her mind & miuccia prada is the same and also is not a warm embrace when she delivers her message
yet people stay for years and years and some can't handle it rightfully and while others do.
the truth is both sides of the coin.

in that regard both deliver in the end yes it can always be more and better but seeing what the wannabes around deliver with at times equal instudio toxic drama´s but with worse results.

i take this over JG at ZARA or the rest of fashion weeks outputs approved fashions and CD´s by the fashion in crowds (don't know how to call all of this now lol)