Photographers / Stylists - about rates / fees

[softgrey]

FYI...since sept 11th...ALL the rates have dropped...
people are now paying 1/3 less than what they were...
instead of booking a 5 day shoot...for example... they will only book 3 days...

everyone's income has been hit HARD...i think the big guys are feeling it the most...becausee they have been so spoiled an so used to having it easy...it's easier for the little scrappy guy to survive because he's used to hustling...the big guys are making big cutbacks...just like the fashion houses and all the agencies...

 

[Mr. Lee]

Probably would be more fun than my job. I think I might be able to be perverted if the job calls for it.

 

[Mr. Lee]

if you say he clears $10 mill a year, that means that he has to earn $14-15 million to clear ten.

if you have info on his Italian vogue contract for example, I think youll find he might make $2 mill a year from that.

where does the other $8 mill come from?
I think everyone has some exaggerated idea of what photogs earn.

I meant that I thought that big photographers made big money like 4 or 5 million and someone like Meisel maybe ten million, nobody told me I just thought that the successful ones made big money.

 

[Mr. Lee]

Isn't Jacquetta Wheeler dating an assistant photographer or was dating?

 

[softgrey]

i've read all of nueva's answers and she's right on everything...
a bit more info...
rates...for editorial ie-W magazine...every single person from the model to the photog to the assts make $150/day...flat fee...standard...no exceptions...

stevenmeisel-he does have a contract with vogue...he shoots for american and italian vogue...sometimes they will re-run one of his stories in an international edition instead of paying for a whole new shoot...and he can get some extra money from that...but that's not guaranteed...and he's only done one shoot for W...the recent androgynous one...and i don't think he's ever shot for vanity fair or allure...i think it's just american and italian vogue in his contract...

patrick demarchelier had a long contract with hearst...i'm not sure if he still does...but he shot for many of their publications from harper's bazaar to cosmo to redbook...his contract was different than meisel's so they could ask him to do anything for any of their mags...

a contract is something of a dream...stylists can have contracts too sometimes...it's really ideal...because it's a guaranteed annual income...while still having the freedom to do other things...

 

[Mr. Lee]

i've read all of nueva's answers and she's right on everything...
a bit more info...
rates...for editorial ie-W magazine...every single person from the model to the photog to the assts make $150/day...flat fee...standard...no exceptions...

stevenmeisel-he does have a contract with vogue...he shoots for american and italian vogue...sometimes they will re-run one of his stories in an international edition instead of paying for a whole new shoot...and he can get some extra money from that...but that's not guaranteed...and he's only done one shoot for W...the recent androgynous one...and i don't think he's ever shot for vanity fair or allure...i think it's just american and italian vogue in his contract...

patrick demarchelier had a long contract with hearst...i'm not sure if he still does...but he shot for many of their publications from harper's bazaar to cosmo to redbook...his contract was different than meisel's so they could ask him to do anything for any of their mags...

a contract is something of a dream...stylists can have contracts too sometimes...it's really ideal...because it's a guaranteed annual income...while still having the freedom to do other things...

When you look in Vogue or other magazines and it say hair by Bok-Hee, you can't call Bumble and Bumble and ask for Bok-Hee, they only do editorials which sucks for the local person who wants a haircut by a stylist that does magazines. But if you know the photographer he/or she could probably arrange it. A model might be able to as well.

 

[lady grey]

questions names:

rates...for editorial ie-W magazine...every single person from the model to the photog to the assts make $150/day...flat fee...standard...no exceptions...

--just for discussion purposes, youre telling me that when nick knight or mcdean shot kate moss for her "W" special that kate & knight made $150 for that day?? that doesnt sound correct. also, that issue had special artworks commissioned by chuck close, alex katz & who was the english p[ortraitist, the really famous painter? come on, they all got so much more than $150 for sure!! --
--I talked to jessica miller about her vegas shoot with juergen teller in that issue, and she said it was 1 of the most expensive in W history. youre telling me jessy got $150 a day? and juergen?? no way. --


patrick demarchelier had a long contract with hearst...i'm not sure if he still does...but he shot for many of their publications from harper's bazaar to cosmo to redbook...his contract was different than meisel's so they could ask him to do anything for any of their mags...

--demarchelier's contract seems to be with conde nast now as he shot the daria tahiti story & he shoots in every vogue issue now. also shot natalia for vanity fair--
--I agree demarchelier, testino, meisel, roversi, thompson, elgort, penn, knight, & bruce weber , sims, inez/vinoo, & maybe mcdean are prob the highest paid photos shooting fashion now--

a contract is something of a dream...stylists can have contracts too sometimes...it's really ideal...because it's a guaranteed annual income...while still having the freedom to do other things...

--some stylists have contacts/annual salaries like karl templer & alex white at W. I think they do outside work but both of those artists deserve $1 million & I would think each earns about that much from W & i guess more from outside work.--
--vogue editors like coddington goodman & santisi have yearly salaries./contacts-- likewise bazaar editors like katie grand--

 

[Nueva]

Isn't Jacquetta Wheeler dating an assistant photographer or was dating?

yes, her boyfriend is Alexi Lubomirski... who used to be Mario Testino's assistant. He does his own thing now... shoots for Bazaar and L'Officiel...

 

[Nueva]

When you look in Vogue or other magazines and it say hair by Bok-Hee, you can't call Bumble and Bumble and ask for Bok-Hee, they only do editorials which sucks for the local person who wants a haircut by a stylist that does magazines. But if you know the photographer he/or she could probably arrange it. A model might be able to as well.

Not true. There are some instances where you might be able to get a cut by Bok-Hee or someone else associated with a salon if you book ahead of time. Some big name hair guys reserve one day a week or maybe one day a month to service clients.... like Orlando Pita and his new salon...

 

[softgrey]

--some stylists have contacts/annual salaries like karl templer & alex white at W. I think they do outside work but both of those artists deserve $1 million & I would think each earns about that much from W & i guess more from outside work.--
--vogue editors like coddington goodman & santisi have yearly salaries./contacts-- likewise bazaar editors like katie grand--

yes...$150/day...i am certain...i know for a fact... this is not speculation...
..as far as hiring artists...that is another negotiation entirely...i believe many artists donate the work or lend it in order to get the exposure...that is the incentive for everyone...the tear sheets for their books and the exposure...these editorials lead to lucrative advertising gigs...so it pays off for everyone in the end that way...

but the money gets spent on flying people around the world, on accomodations for the crew, on photo equipment, on feeding the crew, on hiring a location scout, on booking locations, on renting vehicles to transport the crew and equipment and wardrobe to each location, on flying clothing samples in from all over the world, etc...

btw...alex white has been on staff at W for a couple of years now and became the fashion director when joe zee left to become the editor in chief of vitals...and i believe karl is freelance...no contract...

and doesn't katie grand work for the face and edit POP magazine...she's never been at harpers...

 

[Xone]

NUEVA, thanks a lot for all the info...it was very helpful!very nice from you .......im wondering who choose the final pics from an editorial or cpgn??The editor or the photographer (it depends the power of the photographer).......

ps thank u softgrey too for the info you deliver,very nice!

 

[softgrey]

you are very welcome xone...and welcome to tfs ...

the answer to your last question is that it does depend on the power of the photographer...usually they will submit several choices and highlight their picks...and the editor will indicate their choices as well...but in the end...the editor in chief of the magazine has the final say...or for advertising...it's the client who is paying for the shoot who chooses what will run...

 

[Xone]

thanks again softgrey.......and catalogs?pays that much as advertising? i mean saks and bloomingdales,etc

 

[softgrey]

there are different levels of advertising and different levels of catalog...

advertising usually has a bigger budget and so pays a bit more...catalogs have to produce many shoots...so each shoot has a smaller budget than a company that only does a few ads a year...this is a generalization...of course...and the higher end dept store catalogs which only come out a few times a year are somewhere in btw...

 

[lady grey]

katie/ fees

softy, katie grand has been editing at bazaar for at least 6 months.
unfortunately her work on the gucci/isabeli story in the february issue was mediocre as was isabeli & the photos.

for discussion purposes, youre claiming that bruce weber, gisele, mcdean, jessy miller, juergen teller, paoolo roversi are earning $150 a day from W???
michael thompson getting paid $150 a day by W?? NO ONE believes that!!!!

cmon softy you know thats not true.
bruce weber working for $150 a day? cmon.

[yes joe zee, templer & alex white have done superior work for W]. they also earn more than $150 a day but you know that.

 

[FC5]

.. paid $150 a day by W?? NO ONE believes that!!!!

Unless you can show the pay slips to prove otherwise I suggest you start believing it. Whether it is 150 or 250 per day (£, € or $ - take your pick) editorial pays buttons compared to advertising.

 

[softgrey]

softy, katie grand has been editing at bazaar for at least 6 months.
unfortunately her work on the gucci/isabeli story in the february issue was mediocre as was isabeli & the photos.

for discussion purposes, youre claiming that bruce weber, gisele, mcdean, jessy miller, juergen teller, paoolo roversi are earning $150 a day from W???
michael thompson getting paid $150 a day by W?? NO ONE believes that!!!!

cmon softy you know thats not true.
bruce weber working for $150 a day? cmon.

[yes joe zee, templer & alex white have done superior work for W]. they also earn more than $150 a day but you know that.

well..
you've just proven that you really have no knowledge of the fashion industry...these are very basic facts...not big industry secrets...i was under the impression that you were familiar with the business...

FYI...Interview magazine pays NOTHING...everyone works for free...but the photographers retain the rights to the photos which means if it's agood celeb...they can make money by re-selling them to other mags...
good for the photog...but pretty sucko for the rest of the crew...usually the crew justs doesit as a favour to the photographer in the hopes that he/she will book them on a big money job...

flaunt and surface and many other smaller mags are the same...

of course i know that alex and joe make more than $150/day...i am the one that explained their on-staff positioins which you so incorrectly put forth as the gospel.....mr grey...
karl...however is freelance...so not the same...

you know...if you actually paid attentioin...you might learn something about the business and then it would be easier for you to fool people into thinking you have a clue...i suggest you pay attention and LEARN>>>....

 

[Nueva]

well said softgrey!

Like Steven Meisel for Vogue, I'm sure that Michael Thompson probably has a contract with W... to shoot covers and editorials for them. So if you (Lady Grey) find it hard to believe that Michael Thompson would ever agree to do $150 a day for editorial... just assume that he's under contract, and makes a predetermined amount of money.

Also remember Lady Grey,.. in editorial, photographers have more creative freedom than they ever would in any advertising or catalog gig. And sometimes this sort of freedom outweighs any $150 day rate.... especially if it's an opportunity to create some really fabulous pictures....

 

[softgrey]

good point about creativity nueva...we've go to have someplace to get our yaya's out...we can't just do advertising all the time or we'd all go insane...

but if we only did editorial...we'd starve...

welcome aboard nueva...you obviously know the industry...are you based in ny or somewhere in europe?...

 

[Hana_N]

I wonder how much a photographer like Paolo Roversi does, he doesn't do many ads, does he?