Pierpaolo Piccioli - Designer, Creative Director of Balenciaga

[chungkyekye]

i totally get what you're saying but lately with all the new debuts going on, i look back wonder whether things were really as bad as they were made up to be and i felt the need to rationalise and wonder if i really gave them a fair chance.

regarding the brand signature colours mentioned like tiffany blue, hermes orange - i get where u were coming from but i looked at it from more of a trend angle and those mentioned are so part of the established brand identity so they can't really enter the 'trend' category.

ancora red definitely flopped but from my angle and area (but i'm not in forecasting) - the pink and lime green trickled down incredibly effectively during the time and throughout many ranges until i (or maybe just me?) couldnt escape from them when you looked at buys and it resonated in some sort of way (although its might not be as strong as bottega green). but i think where i'm coming from is while the brands themselves might not have fully reaped the 'benefits' (sales) i definitely see all the parties that did in the wider ecosystem - maybe i wasnt clear enough

in terms of the actual fashions they are putting out - well it was what it is but and i don't feel that strongly about them - they are just 'there.' i'm trying to take a more balanced approach

 

[Monsieur Cristobal]

Sabato, whose oeuvre as a designer is quite average, was given a stellar opportunity for two years and it didn't work.
Clap if you care 🤣

Now, what can make me cry is that a brilliant mind like Patrick van Om. has been working in the shadows for 25 years or that Theyskens is not doing Dior.

 

[Lola701]

Sabato, whose oeuvre as a designer is quite average, was given a stellar opportunity for two years and it didn't work.
Clap if you care 🤣

Now, what can make me cry is that a brilliant mind like Patrick van Om. has been working in the shadows for 25 years or that Theyskens is not doing Dior.

Some designers may not like what comes with being the CD of a big brand.
For me Patrick would be great at a smaller brand as a CD or as a design director at a big one.

Do I want this kind of designers at a giant brand where you would have to put products that you may not necessarily like or believe in just because you have to respond to a commercial need?

Ancora is such a weird case. In retrospective, I think that his debut collection was his best collection. And I’m starting to believe that he was much more unsure of his vision than his cockiness in interviews suggested.
The look with the chunky blue sweater, the jeans and the burgundy slingbacks is the look that stuck on my mind.

I can totally respect something that I don’t like if there’s a vision in it, which means a sense of consistency, confidence and cohesion. I don’t need to like something to recognize that it’s well done.

I find MiuMiu mediocre nowadays tbh but you can’t deny that there’s a vision. It’s a pity that their fashion has become merch but at least it’s coherent.

I wonder where Ancora is going next btw.

 

[jeanclaude]

The only thing I remember about our dearest Sabato is him dancing backstage, while wearing a cheap-looking GUCCI t-shirt.

 

[PDFSD]

Some designers may not like what comes with being the CD of a big brand.
For me Patrick would be great at a smaller brand as a CD or as a design director at a big one.

Do I want this kind of designers at a giant brand where you would have to put products that you may not necessarily like or believe in just because you have to respond to a commercial need?

Ancora is such a weird case. In retrospective, I think that his debut collection was his best collection. And I’m starting to believe that he was much more unsure of his vision than his cockiness in interviews suggested.
The look with the chunky blue sweater, the jeans and the burgundy slingbacks is the look that stuck on my mind.

I can totally respect something that I don’t like if there’s a vision in it, which means a sense of consistency, confidence and cohesion. I don’t need to like something to recognize that it’s well done.

I find MiuMiu mediocre nowadays tbh but you can’t deny that there’s a vision. It’s a pity that their fashion has become merch but at least it’s coherent.

I wonder where Ancora is going next btw.

true only one observation Miu Miu always had merch always had very commercial items the base of the items always had a simplicity to them , even when styled odd , i think what people notice now is the preppy items are more and there is the logo now on everything .....but miu miu clothes where always very flat industrial made and simple instore post collections even more.

she likes that brutalist in clothes making something that is industrially made by multiple prada has it as well , bertelli is a factory guy he pride himself on his they pride themselves on how fast they can decide making something last minute.

prada is a brutally commercial company miuccia said it already she wants to speak to the world not a small elite thats too easy and she is bored by that .

 

[Caffeine]

true only one observation Miu Miu always had merch always had very commercial items the base of the items always had a simplicity to them , even when styled odd , i think what people notice now is the preppy items are more and there is the logo now on everything .....but miu miu clothes where always very flat industrial made and simple instore post collections even more.

she likes that brutalist in clothes making something that is industrially made by multiple prada has it as well , bertelli is a factory guy he pride himself on his they pride themselves on how fast they can decide making something last minute.

prada is a brutally commercial company miuccia said it already she wants to speak to the world not a small elite thats too easy and she is bored by that .

but her price suggests otherwise

 

[PDFSD]

but her price suggests otherwise

the world does not mean she morphed into the red cross 😚

its about speaking not to just a (small) niche audience, but doing something that's niche that can be understood or liked by many (rich people ) that's her challenge she mentioned.

 

[Lola701]

true only one observation Miu Miu always had merch always had very commercial items the base of the items always had a simplicity to them , even when styled odd , i think what people notice now is the preppy items are more and there is the logo now on everything .....but miu miu clothes where always very flat industrial made and simple instore post collections even more.

she likes that brutalist in clothes making something that is industrially made by multiple prada has it as well , bertelli is a factory guy he pride himself on his they pride themselves on how fast they can decide making something last minute.

prada is a brutally commercial company miuccia said it already she wants to speak to the world not a small elite thats too easy and she is bored by that .

I love good commercial fashion. I mean, that’s what we wears after all. I was a huge fan of MiuMiu from the moment they started to show in Paris up until 2015/2016.

For me, it’s simple. When you have to put a f***** gros grain « MiuMiu » tab on every RTW item available, for me you are selling merch. Why do they need to put that logo on an evening gown?

I think at Prada/MiuMiu they have one of the worst approach to logo.

Thankfully, MiuMiu is still quite niche after all and has that aura. Hopefully they will change it as their growth will slow down.

When it comes to luxury fashion, even if MiuMiu has some great knitwear and that the styling of the runway show is sometimes quite inspiring, it’s really not a brand that is speaking to me anymore.

 

[jeanclaude]

The irony of Miu-Miu being Prada´s cheaper line, when it was launched...

 

[PDFSD]

The irony of Miu-Miu being Prada´s cheaper line, when it was launched...

But also miu miu is how she likes to be like and prada is what she is ...her own words.
From all the secondary lines Miu Miu is on of the fews that still exist besides emporio armani who else is there with a substantial secondary youth line concept ?
price increase that's the market not having a price resistance as well both prada and miu miu are overpriced now as many other brands are.
i bet if miu miu stayed less costly it would have not done as well that's also the reality of people's perception to price and halo brand effect ..also miu miu stuff comes out of same factory as prada.....

 

[Cocteau Stone]

^ random thought, but many brands today have done a disservice by discontinuing their diffusion or “younger” lines. McQ, Versus, Marc by Marc Jacobs, D&G, Cavalli… Not saying they were the greatest, but they provided a different offering/alternative where at the time they were still in line with the ethos but were for a different price point.

Some melded them into the mainline, which made the RTW more confusing and out of touch. Others got rid of them altogether and lost a notable clientele. They’re not a necessity for all, but for most of them they were a great outlet for other ideas and pieces that would have been a bit odd to present in the mainline division. Now there’s the reliance on pre-collections, shop floor collections and diffused mainline that creates a huge disconnect between what’s presented and what is actually sold. It’s a shame. It emphasised both niche and audience outreach. Some of these brands are hemorrhaging money because they’re trying to make the mainline do what the diffusion did at a different cost whilst also not being truthful to what’s being presented.

 

[PDFSD]

^ random thought, but many brands today have done a disservice by discontinuing their diffusion or “younger” lines. McQ, Versus, Marc by Marc Jacobs, D&G, Cavalli… Not saying they were the greatest, but they provided a different offering/alternative where at the time they were still in line with the ethos but were for a different price point.

Some melded them into the mainline, which made the RTW more confusing and out of touch. Others got rid of them altogether and lost a notable clientele. They’re not a necessity for all, but for most of them they were a great outlet for other ideas and pieces that would have been a bit odd to present in the mainline division. Now there’s the reliance on pre-collections, shop floor collections and diffused mainline that creates a huge disconnect between what’s presented and what is actually sold. It’s a shame. It emphasised both niche and audience outreach. Some of these brands are hemorrhaging money because they’re trying to make the mainline do what the diffusion did at a different cost whilst also not being truthful to what’s being presented.

I did enjoy early Versus to me it made sense even the name can stand on its own like a Miu Miu , D&G was also not bad and could have been there miu Miu Miu now if they had more discipline in separating the lines consistently. ( agree 100% Some melded them into the mainline, which made the RTW more confusing and out of touch.)

Also this to me is on point :... of these brands are hemorrhaging money because they’re trying to make the mainline do what the diffusion did at a different cost whilst also not being truthful to what’s being presented.

I think many brands that had second lines just did not have the discipline to stick i out and have clear visions for the main brand already and this resulted in secondary lines being a burden and with fear of further brand dilution of having second line ment for a while.

Point is you have to take the secondary line serious as a brand on its own, if not people will see through it as a cheap money grab etc

Marc by marc is perfect example of that he treated it a easy cash cow this end up eroding also the full name label brand etc than also marc main line became a show and not a brand any more .