Prada Menswear F/W 2022.23 Milan

[sore]

I stopped caring about Prada collections many years ago, but I'm all here for good ol' Dale Cooper opening the show!

 

[Deleted member 7575]

I see London.

I see France.

I see Claude Montana's underpants.

Pretty sure Jeff and Kyle were cast last minute to keep this sinking ship of a collection afloat.

WHO exactly are these clothes for? The fashion bros know better. People with money and sense know better. It's exhibit A for collections nobody wanted and that nobody asked for.

 

[RaisinBoy]

I see London.

I see France.

I see Claude Montana's underpants.

Pretty sure Jeff and Kyle were cast last minute to keep this sinking ship of a collection afloat.

WHO exactly are these clothes for? The fashion bros know better. People with money and sense know better. It's exhibit A for collections nobody wanted and that nobody asked for.

I also see..... Balenciaga??!?

 

[RaisinBoy]

Raf is Naff

 

[Deleted member 7575]

I also see..... Balenciaga??!?

And where do you think Balenciaga got it from?

 

[reese06]

Clothing made to be purchased and returned after you've made your social media content, but it may not even be good for that because no one really cares about the brand that much anymore.

This is a silly proposition.

 

[Frederic01]

This silhouette by the way, exaggerated shoulders and small waist, is archetypal of 1930's menswear. This is what Raf and Miuccia were referencing (and subsequently modernising). Demna references the exact same time period: his Haute Couture collection for menswear was literal copies of 1930's mens evening wear. The prototype garments were made on Savile Row, using menswear patterns from the 1930's.


VINTAGE DANCER + PRADA


VINTAGE DANCER + PRADA

 

[tricotineacetat]

This silhouette by the way, exaggerated shoulders and small waist, is archetypal of 1930's menswear. This is what Raf and Miuccia were referencing (and subsequently modernising). Demna references the exact same time period: his Haute Couture collection for menswear was literal copies of 1930's mens evening wear. The prototype garments were made on Savile Row, using menswear patterns from the 1930's.

View attachment 1196404 View attachment 1196405
VINTAGE DANCER + PRADA

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VINTAGE DANCER + PRADA

That's all nice context, but utterly useless if the end result fails to deliver a wearable and desireable product.

The show silhouettes you picked are the two most commercial ones in a sea of otherwise rather difficult to commercialize ideas - I will yet have to see a man who will be enticed to wear a long, strong-shouldered coat with fake fur accents on the hem and sleeve. Given the context of Raf's appointment at Prada, delivering on such an editorial-only show feels ignorant of the crisis that Prada finds itself in, but also the fiasco surrounding his Calvin Klein tenure. At this lofty height, a designer is rightfully measured by the commercial success of his line and I think there isn't much that Raf has designed as of late that really hits that note, other than for the die-hard fans.

 

[Frederic01]

The show silhouettes you picked are the two most commercial ones in a sea of otherwise rather difficult to commercialize ideas - I will yet have to see a man who will be enticed to wear a long, strong-shouldered coat with fake fur accents on the hem and sleeve.

You must admit this is a slightly ignorant observation to make given the times we live in. These kinds of runway pieces are sought after and worn by many, many clients, especially in regions like China and Japan. A lot of Japanese men for example purchase from the womenswear collections. Ditto in Shanghai, and Hong Kong. Even in Milan, there are plenty of men wearing the more adventurous pieces from the collections. Just look at Emiliano Salci from Dimore Studio, who wore one of the fully sequinned coats from the Autumn Winter 2021 Womenswear collection to this show. There is a huge market for these clothes, and Raf is taping into that ethos.


Emiliano Salci Instagram

Given the context of Raf's appointment at Prada, delivering on such an editorial-only show feels ignorant of the crisis that Prada finds itself in, but also the fiasco surrounding his Calvin Klein tenure. At this lofty height, a designer is rightfully measured by the commercial success of his line and I think there isn't much that Raf has designed as of late that really hits that note, other than for the die-hard fans.

I don't think people understand how little these fashion shows contribute to, or affect the overall finances of these luxury brands. These ready-to-wear shows were always and will always exist to target a very niche audience who appreciate and understand luxury ready-to-wear and are valued by these brands but realistically do not contribute much to the overall sales compared to the masses who buy leather goods. Ready-to-wear shows generate very little profit, if any at all. They are all a pure marketing exercise to generate cultural capital, maintain hype around the brand, and also to keep the brand awareness active in the consciousness of the people.

Furthermore, Miuccia decided to collaborate with Raf in a gesture of pure artistic experiment. There was no financial motivation behind his appointment whatsoever. They are there to experiment and express themselves creatively with their shared point-of-view.

Also, the Prada Group was already growing in revenue when Raf arrived and continues to do so, chiefly because of their strength in leather goods.They have strategies to reach 4.5 Billion Euros in the medium term, and most of it, will come from strategies and category development that are external to Raf, for example with the implementation of the Prada beauty/cosmetics line.

 

[RaisinBoy]

And where do you think Balenciaga got it from?

there's so much copying within fashion, but somehow to copy something from a season or two ago is pathetic. inspiration/copying from decades past I guess is more acceptable as the context of a different time makes it different enough. And what is it about Prada that protects them from getting slammed for
their current (past 10 years) lack of creativity?!?! Mediocre fashion label packaged with some "big" quote from Miuccia that gives her bad collections as if intellectual angle/spin. Meanwhile it's just plain boring design. This show looked better to me, don't get me wrong, but just because they copy/pasted an interesting design from Balenciaga.

 

[perfect blue]

I know this thought isn't about the collection but I'm confused about whether or not Raf is being set up to take over Prada or it's just a temporary collaboration. This whole union seems so vague to me.