Prada F/W 2022.23 Milan

[Lola701]

Their best collection yet. At least the one that feels like a collaboration and not two visions trying to exist next to each other.

I love the Hair and Make-up, the bags and the cast.
The collection is a little bit different. There are some glorious, fabulous moments like the simple suits with the full skirts. In terms of silhouettes, movement and execution, it’s classic Prada at it best…
Those 4 looks with the full skirt are the chicest thing ever. Perfect.

The rest is a little bit different. The simple idea of a tank top and a sheer, paneled skirt is good on paper but feels very crafty at the end. There are some good coats, some cute dresses but too much gimmicks…The fake fur trims, the pointless chains…etc.

I know whatever is going to be produced out of this is going to be expensive…

Max Mara is still the best.

 

[Deleted member 1957]

This is very Prada, prefer it to last season

 

[VogueDisciple93]

Very strong Prada collection. I feel like they're finally listening to customers and putting more Prada DNA in the collections. The oversized leather coats were more flattering for this collection than with the men's.

 

[Lola701]

Very strong Prada collection. I feel like they're finally listening to customers and putting more Prada DNA in the collections. The oversized leather coats were more flattering for this collection than with the men's.

If they were willing to listen to customers they would present what they would produce and they would produce what they present…

The fake fur gimmick scream fashion victim.

 

[cul8tr]

I feel like this was the best collection from Miuccia and Raf. Thank God, finally!

And what a fantastic cast!?! Ualalala
There is never too much of Elise, Marina, Liya, Kinga, Hannelore and Querelle!

 

[RaisinBoy]

They could have shown a half of all the looks and the impact would still be the same.

I don't know, people saying this is their best yet... Maybe it is, but it still feels cold and uninviting. Even Miuccia at its lowest was at least authentic. There are nice pieces drowned, by they are mostly drowned by gimmicks. But I can see all Milanese fashion victims wearing that fake fur shoulder coats. How much will they have to shell out, though? 15,000 euro at least?

 

[jeanclaude]

Chewing the archives once more; just to spit it up all over the runway. 1996 prints again? Logos again? Oversized...again??

 

[Summer Day]

They could have shown a half of all the looks and the impact would still be the same.

I don't know, people saying this is their best yet... Maybe it is, but it still feels cold and uninviting. Even Miuccia at its lowest was at least authentic. There are nice pieces drowned, by they are mostly drowned by gimmicks. But I can see all Milanese fashion victims wearing that fake fur shoulder coats. How much will they have to shell out, though? 15,000 euro at least?

Agreed. A lot of it felt repetitive, much last season. The tanks, sheer skirts, heavy, odd Prada adorned coats. Yes, it felt very Prada but definitely not one of the better options.

 

[WAVES]

Arizona

 

[VogueDisciple93]

If they were willing to listen to customers they would present what they would produce and they would produce what they present…

The fake fur gimmick scream fashion victim.

To be fair, the fake fur gimmick is more of a political thing and not exclusive to just Prada. But yes, it looks very cheap. A lot of these looks will definitely be very limited buys, but I can see the skirts and shoes selling well.

 

[Frederic01]

It's a superb collection. Personally I love it. The colour palette and all that faux-fur is so Miuccia! It's bringing me back to seasons like F/W 2015 with the colour palette and futurism aesthetic.

What I like about Raf's approach to interpreting Prada is that it is very subtle and well thought out. He curates the references to Prada's history in a way that is interesting and dynamic, unlike Kim Jones at Fendi who is very blatant and obvious in his references.

What is bizarre about this collection though is the lack of commercial pieces? I see a lot of heavily-embroidered pieces, lots of expensive coats with faux-fur trim, and lots of leather. There is not much here for a client that is not willing to spend under $4000 or $5000. In fact I see a lot of pieces that will be in the $10,000-$15,000 range, given the price point of the current collection and factoring in that Prada increases its prices 10% every few months or seasons. I mean, those tank-tops with the logo are "commercial" but without the embroidered skirt, they're not that interesting? Ditto with the knitwear.

I'm reflecting on this because there was a recent interview with Miuccia for BoF with Tim Blanks where she says something like "now is not the time for dreaming". But with this collection I see a fundamental lack of grounded and commercial approach. It is all fantasy and dreaming here...

 

[YohjiAddict]

It’s quite good, I was expecting something totally lame like the menswear but this was a nice surprise. The simple navy dresses with long sleeves and a chain around the collarbone are probably the best thing Raf has put down the runway.

One big downside to the show (which everyone has rightly noted) was how exhaustingly repetitious it was! Very disappointing to see such lack of variety and it did ruin my enjoyment of the show a little bit to see the same skirt/t-shirt combo appear over and over and over again. I didn’t entirely like the fur (that mongolian lamb looks ten cents cheap) but in some looks it works.

P.S: The only thing I definitely have in common with Raf is an undying love for Depeche Mode, is there anything more appropriate with that set and these clothes? Perfect choice.

 

[Bugsy]

This collection is guaranteed to put anyone to sleep. Totally boring. It's almost anti-fashion. Suckage.

 

[Reggie63]

Honestly, I don't see how this is a successful collaboration. Raf's ideas still clash quite hard with Miuccia's. Those oversized bombers and knits are so atrocious and drowns the other looks in the collection. It's so heavy handed and still derivative of other designers. And as for Miuccia's touches, they're just her signature skirts, some 90s prints and texture-blocked, embroidered shifts - we've seen it all before. They're a nice change, yes, given the trash we've been seeing from the brand, but let's not say that this is a nice collaboration. It's still an incohesive and unimaginative mess, despite it feeling the most Prada collection in a while.

I guess this collection serves as a blueprint for the brand for the coming collections. It seems the Kardashians have been approached by Prada to save the brand. Kim wants to break free of Kanye's Balenciaga and Prada is courting her so it becomes her go to. I am feeling a Skims x Prada collection down the road.

 

[Frederic01]

LOIC PRIGENT