the voluminous trousers with the shrunken tops are quite lovely, the tension works most of the time and you can see some prada's mens FW08 and Raf's FW05 history of my world in there which is nice, but its all so juvenile and too nostalgic. its disappointing to see a designer like raf, who used to be great, doing a parody of himself and miuccia's work.
even if his past work was informed by youth culture it still worked in a grown man wardrobe: summa cum laude, closer and riot riot riot were all about youth but men over the age of 35 could still enjoy those collections. this collection is so unachieved, childish, contrived, limited and sterile, from the colour combinations and goofy overalls to the awful footwear paired with the shapeless little boy tailoring (like seriously ?? would it hurt to send a few suits with a beautiful shoulder and a full chest ??)
i cant see this existing beyond the runway and influencing they way men dress. in the end all raf is saying to us, with these clothes, is that he's completely lost touch with youth culture and cant come to terms with his own aging which is a shame bc id love to see him making clothes for someone over the age of 25
on another note: i LOVE kpop and kdramas but i cant stand kdrama/kpop stans in the comments saying corny sh*t like "thanks prada for taking care of our beautiful prince 😍" ugh f*ck off stop infantilising grown men and go stream nct - 2 baddies and leave the fashion comments alone