At Prada, a Change of Tone and a Breath of Fresh Air
In Milan, Prada’s Spring/Summer 2026 menswear show took everything back to gestures that were simple and human
JUNE 23, 2025
TEXT
Alexander Fury
“A change of tone.” That was the title of the
Prada Spring/Summer 2026 menswear collection – a title revealed, as usual, just after the show, but one whose meaning was embedded into every element of its presentation. For instance, how about the topography of the show itself? The vast expanse of the Deposito of the Fondazione Prada in Milan was laid bare, its stripped concrete walls and floor exposed, sunlight pouring in from the high-slung windows we’ve never noticed before. Indeed, it was the first time the space had ever been shown like that. And the music shifted the tone too – rather than thumping techno, it was an ambient soundscape by the anarchic British band The KLF. The sound and the space reminded you, a little, of church – it was a Sunday afternoon, after all. And post-show, Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons used words like calm, gentle, even nice. Although the collection warrants something stronger.
When the models began to file out, they fairly swam in the space. There was a bold shock of colour – the collection seemed full of it, rich shades that danced in the daylight. Their clothes were, intentionally, about contraposition – different elements laid side by side by impulse, Prada said, rather than by design. The opening look, for instance, cut a slab of patch-pocketed khaki fabric, as if sliced from a uniform front, into high-rise bathing suit-style shorts, teamed with a billowing white dress-shirt with a wavy ocean scene scribbled across it. Prada and Simons talked about the idea of dismantling the meaning and power of clothes, decontextualising via recontextualising, so uniforms lose their institutional bent, sportswear can become formal, beachwear can be transported to city streets. The whole idea was that the collection eschewed rigidity, allowed free-form compositions – to borrow a music term – between different looks, even different realities. You could impulsively mix anything that caught your eye.
Of course, that took work. The impulsive immediacy was, obviously, carefully considered to give the impression of exactly the opposite, just as the simplicity of individual garments was a red herring as to the underlying complexity of Prada and Simons’ design processes. There’s a distinct value, in an oversaturated, overcomplicated era, in the power of knowing when to stop. These clothes were resolutely direct, without any overworking. Volumes stayed close to the body, fits were easy. I kept thinking of words like honest, genuine and true – truth being a fascinating idea, in a world that, as the French philosopher Jean Baudrillard posited, seems hell-bent on championing its own counterfeits. We also live, undoubtedly, in an age of “muchness”, of overproduction, overabundance. Over, over, over. This collection was an antidote to that – even that show venue was emblematic of a stripping away, rather than a piling on. In all, it focussed your eye and made you look harder.
It also felt like a pointed reconnection to nature – to things that really matter. Shoes were low and flat, so you could feel the earth beneath your feet – or, indoors, its representation via the huge, naive scribbled flowers woven into shaggy rugs – and the recurrent hyper-short shorts bared skin to the sun. Those were a big fashion moment, in terms of an arresting silhouette – but again, it was about transformation by reduction, rather than piling on. Everything was about pulling back, shaving down layers to a purity and essentiality. This was a fight – a tender one, though – against the non-stop distractions of our time, taking everything back to gestures that were simple, and human – an idea many designers seem to grab towards, but that few truly nail. It’s very much at the heart of what Prada and Simons do best, and the core of their power.
This was a gentle show, a quiet show with a deep resonance. In all, it felt like a breath of fresh air – a change of tone, indeed.
AnOther