Prada Menswear S/S 2026 Milan | Page 4 | the Fashion Spot

Prada Menswear S/S 2026 Milan

I mean we can do a post mortem on Raf. His biggest influence is his colorways.

Thats about it. So no I doubt theres much beyond colorways that will be influential here.
 
There are two pieces that are in fact "designed": the light blue cotton top in look 32 and the heavy burgundy piece of look 52.
The rest is just trousers, jumpsuits, jackets... very anonymous.
The type of piece you expect scrolling down in a website, with the nice colour as the only element to catch your attention.

The fact that the design is so poor at Prada since already seasons made me wonder if Miuccia was always only the heiress and totally dependent on her right hands.
Since Raf is the second on board Prada has become incredibly basic.
 
maybe the prada chaos cycle is just starting :

susannanicoletti.substack.com

Prada Group something went south at Prada.
Apparently it’s about disagreement over strategy.
D' Attis was appointed brand CEO 2.5 years ago.
Is Q2 going bad?
Too much price increase?
Too high, unattainable expectations?
Or very likely heavy clashes with Miuccia?
Will D' Attis be lured by Kering for next chapter?
It seems that the French group loves Prada executives.
Nothing lasts forever, anyway. Especially in the Prada ranks because Prada can only be managed by Bertelli and Miuccia.
It’s not a shock for those who know how fashion works.
Not even Lorenzo is going to manage Prada, he is heading to Versace and Miuccia yesterday stated that she has nothing to do with Versace and she won’t attend their September show.
And no, D' Attis is not a victim of the system, his management style is very much the one of the 90s, and it didn’t help his relationship with Guerra, the family but also the teams.
That’s it.
 

At Prada, a Change of Tone and a Breath of Fresh Air​

In Milan, Prada’s Spring/Summer 2026 menswear show took everything back to gestures that were simple and human

JUNE 23, 2025
TEXTAlexander Fury

“A change of tone.” That was the title of the Prada Spring/Summer 2026 menswear collection – a title revealed, as usual, just after the show, but one whose meaning was embedded into every element of its presentation. For instance, how about the topography of the show itself? The vast expanse of the Deposito of the Fondazione Prada in Milan was laid bare, its stripped concrete walls and floor exposed, sunlight pouring in from the high-slung windows we’ve never noticed before. Indeed, it was the first time the space had ever been shown like that. And the music shifted the tone too – rather than thumping techno, it was an ambient soundscape by the anarchic British band The KLF. The sound and the space reminded you, a little, of church – it was a Sunday afternoon, after all. And post-show, Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons used words like calm, gentle, even nice. Although the collection warrants something stronger.

When the models began to file out, they fairly swam in the space. There was a bold shock of colour – the collection seemed full of it, rich shades that danced in the daylight. Their clothes were, intentionally, about contraposition – different elements laid side by side by impulse, Prada said, rather than by design. The opening look, for instance, cut a slab of patch-pocketed khaki fabric, as if sliced from a uniform front, into high-rise bathing suit-style shorts, teamed with a billowing white dress-shirt with a wavy ocean scene scribbled across it. Prada and Simons talked about the idea of dismantling the meaning and power of clothes, decontextualising via recontextualising, so uniforms lose their institutional bent, sportswear can become formal, beachwear can be transported to city streets. The whole idea was that the collection eschewed rigidity, allowed free-form compositions – to borrow a music term – between different looks, even different realities. You could impulsively mix anything that caught your eye.

Of course, that took work. The impulsive immediacy was, obviously, carefully considered to give the impression of exactly the opposite, just as the simplicity of individual garments was a red herring as to the underlying complexity of Prada and Simons’ design processes. There’s a distinct value, in an oversaturated, overcomplicated era, in the power of knowing when to stop. These clothes were resolutely direct, without any overworking. Volumes stayed close to the body, fits were easy. I kept thinking of words like honest, genuine and true – truth being a fascinating idea, in a world that, as the French philosopher Jean Baudrillard posited, seems hell-bent on championing its own counterfeits. We also live, undoubtedly, in an age of “muchness”, of overproduction, overabundance. Over, over, over. This collection was an antidote to that – even that show venue was emblematic of a stripping away, rather than a piling on. In all, it focussed your eye and made you look harder.

It also felt like a pointed reconnection to nature – to things that really matter. Shoes were low and flat, so you could feel the earth beneath your feet – or, indoors, its representation via the huge, naive scribbled flowers woven into shaggy rugs – and the recurrent hyper-short shorts bared skin to the sun. Those were a big fashion moment, in terms of an arresting silhouette – but again, it was about transformation by reduction, rather than piling on. Everything was about pulling back, shaving down layers to a purity and essentiality. This was a fight – a tender one, though – against the non-stop distractions of our time, taking everything back to gestures that were simple, and human – an idea many designers seem to grab towards, but that few truly nail. It’s very much at the heart of what Prada and Simons do best, and the core of their power.

This was a gentle show, a quiet show with a deep resonance. In all, it felt like a breath of fresh air – a change of tone, indeed.

AnOther
 
It feels like a response to the whole quiet luxury, dress up look. Everything looks off, styled to not look styled. I don't like it, but there is a message. It's not the right response imo. Fashion needs construction, design, not poverty.
 
Cant wait to see the gay´s at bar bar basso or saint ambrosia in their 900 euro Prada replica of kolhapuri chappal indian sandals you can by for 20 euro or less.............while they waive no no no grazie!!! to the indian street sellers selling flowers or lighters etc

kolhapuri chappal  prada.jpgInShot_20200402_122518485.webp
 
People have been complaining about Hedi Slimane‘s Celine not involving enough design and here we have a good example of what that actually means, with an outcome that could pass as COS with a few quirky touches to make it feel Prada. The most 'fashion' it gets is the red vinyl jackets and the rest is rather lifeless basics I don‘t think a lot of men really need to shop at a brand as Prada.
the only men that shop at Prada are roadmen

petty thugs in black nylon with the triangle plaque
 
the only men that shop at Prada are roadmen

petty thugs in black nylon with the triangle plaque

I wonder if the present mode of business with Raf Simons as Mrs. Prada’s co-creative director really is one that leads to a lasting success - the fact that Miu Miu has been going strong without the interference of Raf begs the question just how much the mainline Prada business really got elevated in the customer's eye. My guess is that it hasn’t really changed anything and it’s been an association in vain (or indeed with the reason to have Raf eventually take over, should Mrs. Prada decide to retire in the near future).

The second thought I’ve had is that Prada does not strike me as a brand that should have a crazy divide between runway and shop merchandise, it has also never been one with a particular demi-couture make to justify such a steep increase of price - They did solid, wearable Italian way and the gamble to raise prices already did not work when Prada group bought Helmut Lang in the late 90ies.
 
Wow, I just properly looked at this collection and is it just me or does this look like a "Best Of" collection? I swear at least 80% of this was looks from previous Raf x Miuccia collections, but in different colour ways? The grey suit styled over a sporty polo from AW 20/21, the beige cotton coats from S/S 23, etc etc.

And really, most of this is about the styling. You can buy something basic from COS, style it like in the show and voila: you have Prada in 2025. No need to spend thousands of euros on any of this. Even the shoes! Did I see white Vans sneakers in some of those looks?!

My goodness, it's no wonder these brands don't sell anything and need to constantly increase their price points to make up for the losses. There is nothing unique enough to justify spending thousands on euros on.
 
Wow, I just properly looked at this collection and is it just me or does this look like a "Best Of" collection? I swear at least 80% of this was looks from previous Raf x Miuccia collections, but in different colour ways? The grey suit styled over a sporty polo from AW 20/21, the beige cotton coats from S/S 23, etc etc.

And really, most of this is about the styling. You can buy something basic from COS, style it like in the show and voila: you have Prada in 2025. No need to spend thousands of euros on any of this. Even the shoes! Did I see white Vans sneakers in some of those looks?!

My goodness, it's no wonder these brands don't sell anything and need to constantly increase their price points to make up for the losses. There is nothing unique enough to justify spending thousands on euros on.

It’s been that way since Raf came onboard. Very minimum-effort, unpleasantly basic, lesser reiterations of previous, and superior Prada collections with none of the charm, wit nor covetability. To be nerdishly specific, this time it’s borrows a lot from Prada’s fantastic S/S 2009 men’s with its subversive take on men’s sportswear proportions with feminine flourishes in construction; the Japanese floral motif from the women’s S/S 2013; and of course, that hat from the 2005 S/S women’s collection. And it’s expectedly slathered with Raf’s gormless, soulless, sickly, faux-impoverished sheen of a charmless man. He was tolerable— even good when he was with Dior and Calvin Klein. Now that they’re both desperate to be relevant with gen alpha, it’s all so secondhand cringe, not just embarrassing.

They should just include a pack of 5 Prada triangle logos with the purchase of any merch— but at an obscenely high pricepoint. Then the customer can just attach the triangles on whatever they’d like, or attach them all on a single garment to flex from every angle. It’s the only reason why any of today’s customer is buying this brand anyway.
 
I just wonder if these shakeups at Prada c-level bring any change to creative directorship or will just Prada keep milking merch and produce just-for-pre-order collections…
 

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