Racial Diversity In Modeling

[LabelWhore4]

I posted this awhile back in Chanel's thread and thought it would be appropriate for this one.

 

[Unknownpleasures]

I love how Chanel is on ads now.Hehe
I saw a video sometime ago and they said that the % of latina girls doing fashion show was like 1% (I mean,they are sure considering some brazilian girls as white but it is still a super small porcentage >_<)

 

[Shelton123]

I've been noticing a major increase in asian models recently...before I couldn't think of any asian models besides Daul Kim and Du Juan, and now there are so many I can't keep track!

Same with models of color in general, in my opinion. Shu Pei, Ming Xi, Tao, Liu, Ai, Ling Tan, Emma Pei, and many others in terms of Asian girls, but there's also Sedene Blake, Ajak Deng, Ataui Deng, Gaye McDonald, Rose Cordero, Joan Smalls... I'm very happy about the modelling industry changing in that respect. Most of the hot newcomers aren't white, and it's such a sudden change, I'm just now realizing how white-washed it all was before, now that diversity is growing.

 

[mariemaud]

My approach is simple: race needs to become completely irrelevant in the modeling industry. This is why I get annoyed when someone says "Oh yeah, Aminata is my favorite black model", or "Definitely, Charlene is the best Asian model". And frankly, I'm not even sure how to feel on threads like "Favorite Black/Asian/Mexican/Etc Models".

If these threads are all fine and dandy, why isn't there a thread called "Favorite White Models"?

This is why the Vogue Italia Black part of their site annoys the hell outta me. Why should we even think of non-white models separately?

To have true diversity, race needs to be entirely irrelevant.

I don't know how it could happen practically but that's also things that I happen to think by my side...
To me the issue should be taken care of from all sides and it starts with scouting... Scouting some AMAZING girls to manage as unique individuals, not as possible fillers (something which used to be and still exists here and there unfortunately)

That's where it should start to convince any kind of clients
Building a book that looks both eclectic and expensive

Look at New York Models, Marilyn NY and current Supreme... they have made such an amazing work in that direction...

Let's not forget Women and current Ford with Jourdan's Prada appearance and Rose's Vogue Paris cover, and most recently Next with Shu Pei and IMG with Joan Smalls achievements... they have a really nice scouting going on that direction in NY

they all made something happen

 

[BerlinRocks]

I remember one guy who said Blacks weren't represented in Fashion, though they were High customers too ...

I'm being in the US for a few days, so I don't know if what I'm gonna try to say is real real, but from a 'fresh' european point of view, I can tell that Blacks are pretty much represented in general in the US on TV and Ad campains ... While in Europe, you barely see one black in a tv campain or even on a billboard ... Here I've seen tv campains full of black people, and I was like " W O W ! W O W ! Never seen this in France !" (apart in a L'Oréal ad campain, and I think it was Beyoncé) ... There are even a lot of blacks presenting TV Shows, and TV News !
(But I've barely seen an arab on TV here ........ So no wonder why everybody is only talking about the blacks onto there, eventhough they have a High Power of buying, too ... While, in France we could talk about north-african and blacks)

So I do believe some points are very biased here ... Minorities, in Europe (at least in France, Italy, Germany, Spain etc.), are not to be seen (almost) anywhere ! And most High Fashion brands are from Europe ... Probably the problem is to be found in Europe, and its people .....
I remember a few years ago, when two black TV journalists presented two major TVshows on public channels in France this was a big deal for the people ! We've been talking about that for days and days ...

Europe and USA don't have the same History with their minorities, and didn't have the same behaviours with them ...

 

[LabelWhore4]

^Yeah, but those european designer's should try to market to ALL the people who buy their products. Where I live now (DC) and where I used to live (ATL) have an extremely large amount of affluent black people who buy nothing BUT luxury items. The same can be said of the majority of cities in the US. So, while I respect your point of view the fact remains that these companies are treating their loyal clients as dirty little secrets to avoid and out-right ignore.
They should at least try different and more inclusive marketing strategies in their lucrative foreign markets.

 

[agee]

I don't think the issue is the black consumer - either as the buyer of luxury items or magazines, the hard core black fashionista is going to buy the clothes, accessories or magazines regardless and any incremental increase from black consumers from featuring a black model on the cover or in a campaign is negligible. The real issue is white consumers and getting them to "relate" enough to a non-white model on the cover or in a campaign that they take an interest and want to buy.

I think the conventional wisdom is that black celebrities do sell, so white consumers will take enough of an interest in a cover with Beyonce, Zoe Saldana, Halle Berry and model-celebs* Tyra Banks and Naomi Campbell on it to consider purchasing the magazine. I think it is a sad and disturbing thing, but it is not something that is easily solvable.

On my end, I am less understanding about designers who do not cast models of color in their shows or in a multi-girl campaign. For the designers for whom this is a pattern I would like to see this reported on and even see celebs of color support the designers who do cast models who look like them. The key here is pattern, I am referrring to multiple seasons of monochromatic casting versus a single show.

* I actually think that Chanel Iman is recognizable enough that she can carry a cover if the target market is the younger demographic.

 

[blueorchid]

^ Now that you mention it, I wonder how the Jourdan & Chanel issue of Teen Vogue sold compared to the other issues of Teen Vogue in 2009. I wonder if there is a difference in the amount of sales that Teen Vogue would have (which is obviously amed towards, lol, the younger generation) versus a cover of Vogue with a black celebrity on it.

 

[LabelWhore4]

STYLE & BEAUTY: SURPRISE, SURPRISE-CONDE NAST SAYS NO THANKS TO ‘VOGUE AFRICA’
July 20th, 2010 - By Kweli Wright

Cameroonian photographer Mario Epanya went all out in his campaign to make Vogue Africa a reality. In order to get publisher Conde Nast to see the potential in the magazine–that would pay homage to African women–he created fictional covers, featuring gorgeous images, but it looks like it wasn’t enough.
Conde Nast has turned down Epanya’s bid for the magazine. “DEAR ALL. The Wait is over. Condé Nast said NO to an African license of VOGUE. So this is the last cover. Enjoy, but it’s a beginning of something,” he posted on his Facebook page.
Vogue is currently published in 18 countries and one region. Condé Nast has not officially commented on their decision. Ironically, Vogue Italia featured Epanya in a full feature.
Obviously, Vogue can still get away with a few editorials featuring Africans and African Americans sprinkled here and there. Although their “Black Issue” flew off the magazine racks in 2008, are you really surprised that Conde Nast rejected the idea?
http://madamenoire.com/10939/surprise-surprise-conde-nast-says-no-thanks-to-vogue-africa/

madamenoire.com

I love fashion but I HATE the Fashion Business. This is why......

 

[BerlinRocks]

Is Vogue well distributed in Africa ?
In which country of Africa is Vogue distributed ?
Isn't calling a Vogue "Africa" reducing all african countries and various ethnicities to one a tiny narrow ?
Isn't there maghrebins in (North) Africa - so what is the link between "black" people and them ?
How do you define a Vogue "Africa" ?

etc.

 

[iluvjeisa]

Is Vogue well distributed in Africa ?
In which country of Africa is Vogue distributed ?
Isn't calling a Vogue "Africa" reducing all african countries and various ethnicities to one a tiny narrow ?
Isn't there maghrebins in (North) Africa - so what is the link between "black" people and them ?
How do you define a Vogue "Africa" ?

etc.

American Vogue encompasses a lot of ethnicities...so I don't think that would be a unique problem - the unique thing would be that it was not a sole country but an entire continent.

I think you could start an artsy mag a la IV and it would sell...maybe I'm idealistic now, dunno.

 

[BerlinRocks]

^Understand "ethnie" as "tribes" ....


Anyway, as you said (and that was my point) Africa is not a country, but a continent ...
On this point, I would love to know how ARISE is doing ... and where it is distributed exactly in Africa ....

ARISE is now a monthly quality glossy, sold at newsstands in London, New York, Washington DC, Paris, Milan, Nigeria and South Africa. ARISE is aimed at readership from the global African diaspora that share an interest in the cultural triumphs and positive social developments coming out of the continent.

So actually Vogue Africa would intend to be a Fashion magazine for the "global african diaspora" but not for people in Africa ?

I'm really confused about this ......

 

[LabelWhore4]

^^Me too. Its just as offensive as Vogue Latin America but it would at least be a start. I always assumed a South African Vogue would come about but it never has.

 

[blueorchid]

Wouldn't one logistical problem for Vogue Africa be what language to publish it in? I mean, I guess they'd probably go for English, but then that would exclude large populations. I know that Vogue really isn't some sort of populist magazine meant to be read by everybody, but it does pose a problem.

Also Vogue Latin America is probably less "offensive" than Africa, in my opinion, but I can't articulate why. Probably because people still think of "Africa" as a country, which really doesn't apply to what most people think about Latin America. And of course Latin America (not including, Brazil, of course), by the use of Spanish, is lingustically connected in a way that Africa as a region really isn't.

 

[iluvjeisa]

It's really hard for me to see why Vogue Africa would be offensive. Who in the world thinks it's one COUNTRY? It would be obvious it would be in order to sell enough copies. But sure, Vogue Kenya or South Africa might be better, easier to accomplish, especially considering the language aspect.

Then again, if the language is not English, there would have to be a clientele who could purchase the clothes in order to motivate the language. Vogue is there to sell expensive clothes....there have to be people who are interested.

 

[blueorchid]

^ Just to clarify. I don't think Vogue Africa would be offensive, lol, just trying to understand WHY people would think so.

 

[miasionne]

I think the models are an extension of the image that designers are trying project. While it may not be an issue of racism, it says something about what they want associated with their style/brand.

I agree...i love prada and miu miu her sister brand. And as a black women who loves her clothing.i often feel a little foolish purchasing her peices.

 

[Yendor]

Prada has the worst reputation for lack of diversity, but what about Chanel? They seem to cast the least black women out of all the big houses

 

[labellevie]

I would love it if they had a Vogue South Africa or Vogue Kenya... even a Vogue Africa.
( I guess I too, am also clueless as to why a Vogue Africa would be offensive)

 

[Riseup]

Prada has the worst reputation for lack of diversity, but what about Chanel? They seem to cast the least black women out of all the big houses

Yes i was thinking the same thing the other day. Chanel is really bad in the "racial diversity" topic, at least Prada has been using 1 or two black girls in the past seasons, not that it really makes the cast "diverse" but u know,