Recommendations : Books About Fashion & Designers

Discussion in 'Careers, Education & the Business of Fashion' started by MissKatherineA, Aug 23, 2004.

  1. Benn98

    Benn98 Well-Known Member

    Aug 6, 2014
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    As Needed For Pain - Dan Peres

    Spent half of my Sunday reading it and while it was by no means a disappointment or poorly written, I just came away half full. Which was pretty much my opinion of his tenure at Details. Half full. There was always that one part, that you couldn't quite put your finger on, that was missing. The images were solid, the content seemed solid, and yet.....I dunno. It's not the type of magazine that stood the test of time when you flip through it now, let me put it that way. But the ideas seemed great back then.
    Anyway, for the book, it's an autobiography in the traditional sense. It starts with his cushy, sheltered childhood, the usual puberty swings through the coming of age part, and really lingers on all the awkward bits that made me squirm. It was only towards the end that I realised how necessary that was because all of it really shaped what ultimately led to his addiction with pills.
    I found it really interesting, this addiction to painkillers. Probably because that sort of thing isn't really all that common in the UK and I usually associate addiction with hard narcotics. And yet the trajectory was very similar and likely lasted as long as it did because probably opioid addiction was really hard to spot back then. Either that or they were everyone around him was like Tom Ford who caught onto him yet didn't say or do anything except subtle hints.

    I kept wondering why Dan appeared on all these really tacky and tabloidy talk shows to plug his book. Shows like Dr Phil and other condescending hosts who had zero clue who he was or the magazine he edited. You could tell by the generic introductions ('Let's welcome the magazine editor...), and once they discovered that he held a position of power and influence, came the shady subtext in most of their comments and questions (see how the cold and evil fashion industry very nearly swallowed this nice guy up? But he fought and came out victorious!).
    I kept wondering why, whenever he wrote about his addiction throughout the book, it seemed like I was reading a wordy thinkpiece on Bustle? Well, maybe because it was created for the Bustle reader! The narrative of his book, the diminishing of his career achievements, the movie script-like layout of the chapters.

    But basically what Dan Peres is saying with this book is that ever since he took office at Details he hadn't been sober much and so you have to actually wonder, regardless of his affliction, how much credit would someone in such a position really deserve for all the accomplishments that he got? His direction and vision for the magazine were covered in less than one page, the only parts which stood out about his time at CN were the dreaded monthly meeting when he had to present his magazine to Si Newhouse whom he admired from afar. And that was not only anxiety-driven, but also a need to be validated by Si.
    That's such a stark contrast to ALT, for instance, who razed the earth for Anna and his job, shunned sex and love and got handed scraps in return. ALT, who is the posterboy of how bad it is when you're too loyal and remain in the same position for too long.
    Whereas Dan's professional life seemed to show how equally bad it is to get too much, too soon, and too easily. The quotes that encapsulate his career and strategy, not that he had any to begin with:

    On his job as a Paris correspondent at W: “I was hardly responsible, and if I made it into the office before eleven A.M., it was a shock to those who’d already been there for hours.
    On getting the Details job: “It was the ideal job for me—high profile enough to make me feel important, but extremely light on responsibility. I wasn’t ready for any real responsibility.”

    I do sympathise with his personal struggle but can't begin to relate to his career and his role in it. The guy quickly rose to the ranks at WWD, mentored by Patrick McCarthy (who btw is the only male role model of note in this entire book) and contributed to and coaxed designers for W, before his 30th he was editor in chief of a full-fledged men's magazine with a large demographic and significant amount of impact. But as the reader, you pick all these clearly enviable achievements up in bits and pieces which reads to me as if he never wanted it.

    I think he comes across as a nice guy and the book does touch on some sore points like how children can be vicious, how much more ingrained male body image and angst really are, and how easy it is for opioid addiction to go undetected even by doctors. I did feel sad when I browsed his pictures flanked by celebrities during his time at Details because he looks exactly how he described himself in the book. Sad, lost, depressed. Thankfully he got help and support because the epiphany came at a crucial time when his wife gave birth to their first son.

    I bet this book will get optioned for a film within the next few years. It has all the earmarks of a story of self-redemption that the masses will lap up.
  2. MissMagAddict

    MissMagAddict Well-Known Member

    Feb 2, 2005
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    Fashionable people.

    Read This
    Intimate Party Pictures of Joan Didion and Others
    Anjelica Huston and Robert Graham’s wedding at the Hotel Bel-Air, Los Angeles, May 22, 1992. Camilla McGrath

    By Thessaly La Force

    Born in Paris in 1925, Camilla Pecci-Blunt was the youngest child (along with her twin, Graziella) of a wealthy and aristocratic Italian-American family. She picked up a camera at an early age and began taking photographs at the various events to which she was invited, including lunches at Villa Reale di Marlia, the Pecci-Blunt estate in Lucca, Italy, and the wedding between the Fiat chairman Gianni Agnelli and Princess Marella Caracciolo di Castagneto. Desirous of a less conventional existence, Camilla eventually married, at 37 — much to the dissatisfaction of her family — a handsome and charismatic American from Wisconsin named Earl McGrath, who was six years her junior. Together, the couple embarked on a glamorous life — moving between the worlds of film, rock ’n’ roll and art — that grew to include dinners, parties, after-parties, weddings and vacations with Mick Jagger, Joan Didion, Audrey Hepburn, Jacqueline Kennedy, Andy Warhol, Cy Twombly, Jasper Johns, Robert Rauschenberg, Sonny Mehta, Anjelica Huston and many others. At every instant, McGrath was never without her camera (first, a Roliflex; then, starting in the ’60s, a Nikon). McGrath died in 2007, but her meticulously organized photographs are finally being published this month by Knopf in “Face to Face,” with accompanying essays by friends of the couple: Fran Lebowitz, Harrison Ford, Griffin Dunne, Vincent Fremont and Jann Wenner (as well as an introduction by the journalist Andrea di Robilant). Because McGrath’s photographs were never used for any kind of publicity (and her subjects were her family and friends), there is a marvelous sense of candor and intimacy to them, which capture, in their totality, an incredibly full and joyful life. $75. Penguin Random House.
    source | nytimes
  3. MissMagAddict

    MissMagAddict Well-Known Member

    Feb 2, 2005
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    In his latest book, Takay presents photographs that pay homage to the creative power and style of the great Japanese designer, Yohji Yamamoto.

    'Fluence' was shot primarily in Tokyo, Japan. In it, Takay has captured the magic and mystery of artistic forces and his native country. The images in 'Fluence' are shot in black and white which punctuate the subject and the black designs and silhouettes of Yojhi Yamamoto’s clothing. The subjects in the book are some of Japan’s most accomplished creatives, actors, musicians and models. The locations hark back to Japan of the 1980’s, the end of the Showa era. Takay subconsciously chose locations that reflect this, the era he lived in prior to leaving Japan. These previously unseen photographs blend the Japanese landscape with the transformative power and energy of the people and the archive collection.

    The seed for this book was planted many years ago at the start of Takay’s career when he worked with Terry Jones on a Yohji project, and came to fruition after he was offered the use of the Yohji Yamamoto archive collection which spans 40 years of design. In Takay’s opinion, Yohji Yamamoto’s designs have a strong avant-garde, masculine style, mixed with a strong Japanese sensibility and elegance. When he began his project, he thought about what he could do with the clothes but while working with the people dressed in the collection, there was a transformation visually for him, which inspired him to create the images in this book.
    source | damianieditore
    MagFan likes this.

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