WWD: How do you feel about the Beijing store?
Rei Kawakubo: Well, this isn’t about the store, but I first came to China 30, 40 years ago, and I've been here many times in the past 15 years and I have witnessed many changes. Now with fashion, at the very least you can find all the brands in Beijing and Shanghai. So I wanted to do something new…a new method or expression…with fashion and Comme des Garçons in a place that has everything. I'm very happy to have worked with I.T in order to realize that.
WWD: You mentioned that you’ve been coming here for 30 years. What kinds of changes have you witnessed in China and its consumers over that time period?
R.K.: First of all, the administration [of the country] is totally different. Now, it has become more free. I feel that people are much more free to make new things and create new business than was possible before…and there are more people who are interested in these changes and who are aspiring to participate in the changes, so from that point of view I think it has changed completely.
WWD: What do you think of the way people dress here and their style?
R.K.: When I came here 10 years ago there were no people who would wear Comme des Garçons. I was just in the towns and didn’t go to the places where fashionable people gathered, but now it is much more casual. I used to enjoy seeing people wearing communist workers' clothes and I don’t see that anymore.
WWD: How has the inspiration for your collections changed over the course of your career?
R.K.: Do you think it's changed? For me it hasn’t changed at all. The way I approach each collection is exactly the same…the motivation has always been to create something new, something that didn't exist before. The more experience I have and the more clothes I make, the more difficult it becomes to make something new. Once I’ve made something, I don’t want to do it again, so the breadth of possibility is becoming smaller.
WWD: Everyone is talking about how the Japanese market for retail and luxury goods is just terrible right now. Do you think that will change? Do you think there is a way to get consumers excited again?
R.K.: Now, with fast fashion, the value of creation is diminishing, and very expensive things are not interesting.
WWD: Is there any way out of that situation?
R.K.: I always think that I'd like to do something about the situation...it’s a very profound motivation...but I don't think it's something that can really be changed. I'm not powerful enough. There's a closed-mindedness that prevents movement and change. I always think that I’d like to break that, and I've used it [this closed-mindedness] as a theme for collections, but I just can't seem to break it. I want to wake people up, but I don’t think I succeed in doing this as much as I would like to.
WWD: Do you feel like other retailers and brands are missing a trick? Maybe things aren't interesting enough?
R.K.: Definitely. But I don’t want to say, “Let's do it together,” because everyone has to do their own thing. I'm not into creating movements.
WWD: You mentioned fast fashion. That's been a huge story and obviously you had your collaboration with H&M. Would you consider doing something like that again?
R.K.: That was a special case. They were making a new store in Japan, so it was just a short, two-week relationship. It wasn't a big thing, but I thought it was interesting because they asked me to do all the advertising and visuals as well. H&M has a very different way of thinking and a different business model, so it was interesting to see how much of a connection we could make. But in the end I realized that there wasn’t very much in common, so I don’t think I'll do it again.
WWD: What do you think of Jil Sander's work with Uniqlo?
R.K.: I don't really know much about it, but each person has their own way of thinking. I haven't seen it.
WWD: Where do you like to shop?
R.K.: At airports, because I don't have time to shop. I buy my cosmetics at the airport and there's nothing else much I buy. I just don’t have time.
WWD: Where do you want to see your company in five to 10 years' time? What kind of future do you see for it?
R.K.: I just have to do the best I can do for right now.
WWD: Do you think the time will come when you don’t want to design anymore and you don't have any more ideas?
[No answer]
WWD: So, for right now you're just concentrating on your business? You're not thinking about a succession plan?
R.K.: Of course there are things to be thought about. There's nothing much I want to say now but probably the company will carry on with the staff that we have. The staff that I'm bringing up.
WWD: Would you consider selling it or listing it on the stock market?
R.K.: I don’t think there's anyone who would want to buy it. I do everything on my own, so there are very few people who could do it. Do you think there's anyone who would buy it? [Joffe interjected half-jokingly with a laugh: "We’re waiting for an offer."]
WWD: How do you come up with a retail concept? Where do you start?
R.K.: Firstly, I want to make a shop that’s unlike any that already exists. And then, since it’s a business, we have to be able to get back the initial investment, whether it's ours or whether it's the partner's, in as short a time as possible. So I don’t like to use expensive materials. I take care to make costs reasonable. It's very similar to the way I make clothes. I give myself limits, not only financial limits but I also limit my method of expression, and from within those limits I try to come up with something new and interesting.
WWD: I remember reading in one of your previous interviews that you really don't like being lumped together into a group of Japanese designers, but I wanted to ask what you thought of Yohji Yamamoto falling into bankruptcy protection. Obviously you had such strong links with him.
R.K.: I can't really comment on that. His way of doing things is very different to my way of doing things.
WWD: Are there any young designers coming up through the ranks you’re keeping your eye on?
R.K.: There are very few. There are few people who, like us, have the values and the way of thinking to really try hard. They lack discipline. And it's not just fashion, I think…[young people] get satisfied too easily. They're not strict enough with themselves. They’re too soft on themselves.