Rick Owens S/S 2020 Paris

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[dior_couture1245]

Ok. Some of these looks are actually gorgeous....those pagoda shoulder pieces over the liquid jersey dresses, the sequins, even some of the gowns....

But I really cannot stand the gross model casting and makeup effects and this blatant display of ugliness.

It’s a shame, because I can see many of these looks pulled out of this horrifying context and becoming something very beautiful.

 

[Salvatore]

Didn't know I needed a Rick Owens ballgown in my life, but here we are.

 

[Koibito]

I’m all ready for Rick Owens haute couture, body and soul!

 

[RedSmokeRise]

crazy but I love it. Go Rick!!

 

[Machinegumm]

Space pharaohs! Definitely one of my favourite collections this season.

 

[Salvatore]

Space pharaohs! Definitely one of my favourite collections this season.

Interesting ! I see Shogun, especially with the pagoda shoulders, but now I can see a bit of Pharaoh, too.

 

[perfect blue]

Loving this feminine and couture approach from him

 

[helmutnotdead]

Some people here have to move on and understand that beauty comes from everywhere and it's not 2005 anymore...

The collection is absolutely sublime. The third look is probably the best thing of the entire month. I just can't wait to see his next show because this is getting better and better. I feel so sorry for those who had to see a lot of garbage at Off White after this glorious moment.

 

[Joromana]

Some people here have to move on and understand that beauty comes from everywhere and it's not 2005 anymore...

The collection is absolutely sublime. The third look is probably the best thing of the entire month. I just can't wait to see his next show because this is getting better and better. I feel so sorry for those who had to see a lot of garbage at Off White after this glorious moment.

Some people here have to move on and understand that beauty comes from everywhere and it's not 2005 anymore...

The collection is absolutely sublime. The third look is probably the best thing of the entire month. I just can't wait to see his next show because this is getting better and better. I feel so sorry for those who had to see a lot of garbage at Off White after this glorious moment.

I work on the branding/advertising side of fashion so I don't always 'get' structure and craft and this is one of those times. I used to love Rick Owens but I just don't 'get' this collection. Maybe I don't have the expertise? I just know I wouldn't purchase any of it.

 

[jeanclaude]

Never in a million years I would have expected Rick Owens making ball gowns!! I don´t like the first two gowns; but the last two ones are a perfect example on how to modernize something as dated as a ball gown (my imagination runs wild here, wondering what would Rick make in Dior...?).

As for the rest of the collection, I like some jackets and coats. I totally hate the stripes print part (I think that part crashes with Rick´s aesthetic).

And I also hate the 70s sci-fi comic look of the models. I know that Rick is totally obsessed with Larry Legaspi right now...but the models with bald heads remind me too much of Riff-Raff from "The Rocky Horror Picture Show"!!

vignette.wikia.nocookie.net

 

[dodencebt]

Currently in the lead for “favorite collection of the season”. The pleated ballgowns, I just cannot.

 

[dior_couture1245]

Some people here have to move on and understand that beauty comes from everywhere and it's not 2005 anymore.

Don’t show me a Botticelli, then show me roadkill and tell me it’s beautiful.
Don’t feed me filet mignon, then feed me ash and tell me it’s delicious.
Don’t play me Mozart, then play nails on a chalkboard and tell me it’s sublime.

I’m not behind the times...I just believe beauty is less subjective than we continue to convince ourselves. I agree that beauty can be found in unexpected places, but I do not believe in corrupting beauty for the sake of it - at the expense and mockery of any standard. I do not believe in deliberate ugliness.

 

[dfl-001]

There are different types of beauty. No 'one' right for everyone.
But I love it. I agree, though, he should move on from the skull capped models.
Love the unique interpretation of the Asian influence and the origami head pieces.
I am a bit troubled that I find that photo of Riff-Raff appealing?!
Thanks jeanclaude.

 

[SophiaVB]

It’s a shame, because I can see many of these looks pulled out of this horrifying context and becoming something very beautiful.

Maybe that's the point : )

 

[mistress_f]

well, rick owens ball-gowns? oh my! I don't love everything but his take on more formal, flamboyant evening-wear is amazing. The structured jackets / outerwear over the sequined / metallic dresses, the huge ballgowns, so so great

 

[Lola701]

I really like how Rick’s take on sexy clothes is slightly « uncomfortable ». On the paper, it has everything « cliché » (slits, deep v, backless details, plenty of legs, paillettes) and yet the outcome, and even when you wear it yourself if different.
Of course he can do a beautiful draped dress but I always say that Rick’s eveningwear is for the women who don’t like quote on quote eveningwear.

I like this collection but more than that, I admire how Rick can reinvent himself, even more by thinking how his aesthetic can seems limited from afar.

 

[Melancholybaby]

Finally, something to get excited for. I've never been part of Rick's cult but this is sublime and he's been diversifying his oeuvre so much these past few seasons. I've never been to his boutique here in London but I'll try to pop by at some point. Does his runway stuff make it to his flagships unaltered?

The ballgowns are unexpected but nowhere near matronly and ladylike. AnOther's latest issue had an interview and editorial with Rick, some of the photos were from his private collection of Charles James ballgowns. Maybe he was inspired by those/this is some sort of connection to this collection?

 

[Phuel]

Umm… wow. The feudal samurai-armoury and kimono-origami, resplendent in living graphic design with Pharaoh’s headpiece and hieroglyphic-inpired designs in the paneling, and that genius obi-ribbon sculpted to resemble it frozen in mid-air, reimagined as sci-fi armour, is the stuff of OG Gaultier/Galliano/McQueen rapturous high fashion goodness.

Sadly— and I assume the partially-shaved hairstyles of ancient Egyptian royalty and the chonmage of samurai in Edo-period Japan being the inspirations for these looks, all ends up more clownish Star Trek with the prosthetics, rather then a more culturally-rich fusion of a new and provocative proposal of beauty. The (deliberate?) ugliness isn’t working. It’s even cheap and corny looking, especially with the Terminator-sunglasses, completely drags down the strong designs. He’s always been so heavy-handed, unlike the masters.