Russian influence: Louis Vuitton / Jacobs

[Lena]

are you ready for more russian chic?
i think we can already guess the mood at Louis Vuitton fw07.08 catwalks

MOSCOW — Considering Russia has been an inspiration for many designers over the last two seasons, Marc Jacobs spent four days in Moscow and St. Petersburg with one primary goal: "To get acquainted with the local culture, history, religion, traditional crafts, to talk to the most interesting people here, get the feeling and use it in Louis Vuitton clothes and accessories."

Not that Vuitton is a newcomer to the country. At the end of the 19th century, the company was producing suitcases for the last Russian tsar, Nicholas II, and key nobility, so Jacobs' visit late last month was somewhat of a return to the brand's roots.

"I find Russia very interesting, both in terms of its cultural background and commercial perspective," Vuitton's creative director said. "Mainly it concerns Russian women — I have noticed they like to dress up here."

Vuitton entered the Russian retail market in 2003 and now has two stores in Moscow: in the Stoleshnikov mall and in the GUM department store in Red Square.

Jacobs flew to Moscow on a private jet with friends Naomi Campbell and Andrè Leon Talley, editor at large of U.S. Vogue. Yves Carcelle, Vuitton's president, gave a Russian-style dinner in honor of the designer, which included gypsy singing and buckwheat pancakes with caviar.

"I find Marc Jacobs' visit here symbolic — at LVMH we consider this country to be a very important market," Carcelle told the dinner's 50 guests, who included conductor Vladimir Spivakov and his wife ,Sati, dancer Nikolay Tsyskaridze, designer Valentin Yudashkin, French actress Fanny Ardant and Russian fashion editors.

While in Moscow, Jacobs visited the Pushkin Museum and the Kremlin and saw the show "Jeanne d'Arc on Fire," which stars Ardant and is conducted by Spivakov. In St. Petersburg, the designer saw the Hermitage, which at the moment is exhibiting women's garments from the 17th to the 20th centuries; the Aurora ship, the symbol of the Communist Revolution, and some of the city's most famous churches.

photo and article from wwd

 

[helena]

Thanks Lena - hmmm I hope what he does isn't the usual boho russian look....with too much fur & embroidery.

I like your emoticon commentary on the article.....

 

[Lena]

you are welcome Helena, seems the Russian influence is destined to go on and on.. more so since it's a very important market, i'm sure LVHM wouldnt mind 'flatering' their faithful Russian clients.. after all Russian women spend a lot in fashion and try to look at their best at all times and their culural esthetics/traditions are only too rich for inspiration, much more for an american designer like Jacobs.

my only objection is that he took this flight a bit late..
since russian influenced over decoration is rightly predicted that wont last for much longer, but if he gets influenced from russian techniques, colours and details it may prove real interesting

 

[helena]

yes I think that would be more interesting....I guess if I am honest I don't know much about Russian techniques or really if real Russian traditional dress was like the old Dr Zhivago/over embroidered cliche.

That brings me to another point....I have been thinking about a new thread on 'world costume' - I have a great book about it.....I'd like to learn more about traditional costumes (& not just our cliched perception of them).

 

[Lena]

excellent idea helena

check also our 'Chinese styles' thread, interesting points brought out there

 

[nqth]

4 days, two cities. Is he serious? One can spend day or two in Ermitage alone, and if I am not wrong, the Pushkin museum is dedicated to Western arts, rather than Russian:-P

I'd love to see the co work with russian artists, tho. It is more authetic imo than american meets LV interpretation of some old paintings or photographs.

 

[faust]

4 days, two cities. Is he serious? One can spend day or two in Ermitage alone, and if I am not wrong, the Pushkin museum is dedicated to Western arts, rather than Russian:-P

I'd love to see the co work with russian artists, tho. It is more authetic imo than american meets LV interpretation of some old paintings or photographs.

Took the words right out of my mouth.

It's a nice marketing gimmick, but I think it's much more WESTERN oriented. The paradox is, Russian women want to look WESTERN - there is no way they will buying this. Europeans and Americans will, however.

By the way, Stoleshnikov and GUM are like one block away from each other

 

[Meg]

nqth i completely agree. i don't understand how one can even begin to grasp the enormity of russian history and tradition is a 4 DAY trip and get a sense of being 'truly' russian while eating pancakes with caviar. I agree Faust, must more of a marketing move than based on anything 'solid'

 

[Spacemiu]

I think a Russian influence is going to look dated at this point, did we already do this kind of thing a couple seasons ago.

 

[Scott]

Completely concur with nqth,faust and meg on this.

Influence? If you're going for 4 days,I don't think one is going to actually learn,anyway. More like take pictures to use for one's copying disposal. I mean,that's pathetic. I mean,if I were going to really immerse myself into the techniques and culture of Russia,I would spend at least a month there. And not just in the major cities either. I'd also visit some of the outside villages and get a real feel of old-world Russian craftsmen.

To be quite honest,the thought of Marc and LVMH making their throw-away clothes seem influenced by Russian,I see it as a real insult to Russia.

 

[Lena]

guys, i'm sure 4 days are enough to get impressed and grub some books/pics
an experienced designer doesnt need long to smell the 'air' or grab the books

 

[Scott]

^well,if that's the case,I do wonder like Helena if what we'll see are mere clichès??

Btw,hasn't Marc already done a Dr. Zhivago influenced collection? If I'm not mistaken,it was all this boiled wool and big fur hats.

 

[helena]

Yes Scott, but maybe he'll surprise us all & produce something very nice. I actually think some of his work is beautiful.....I saw an 'exhibition' of his current collection at Au Bon Marche in Paris in September and apart from a few dresses, the clothes were so lovely. I know MArc Jacobs can be annoying sometimes (Faust no need to expand!! ) but .....maybe it will be good.

 

[Lena]

i dont want to sound like a MJ fan -cause i'm certainly NOT- what i say, is come on, give the guy a chance..

sometimes tFS members sound as the 'hardest critics' in the world, it's almost amusing me to be honest..

 

[Caffeine]

in fact, MJ's team went to Russia at least half a year ago. They surely took their time.

 

[Scott]

^ I know some of us are harsh about Marc but personally I can't help it...there are just certain qualities that I find very loathing about him. Mostly because of that whole copying thing he does. Not to mention,he's so uber-hyped and trendy,I don't connect with anything he does because it doesn't feel timeless or special. Just as Faust mentioned...gimmicky.

 

[Arturo21]

^ I know some of us are harsh about Marc but personally I can't help it...there are just certain qualities that I find very loathing about him. Mostly because of that whole copying thing he does. Not to mention,he's so uber-hyped and trendy,I don't connect with anything he does because it doesn't feel timeless or special. Just as Faust mentioned...gimmicky.

Yes, that is true....I've probably attacked him and Armani the most out of all designers...and I don't think that it's a simple coincidence that MJ tends to get on many people's nerves here...I just disagree with his entire perspective.

I doubt he'll really be "getting into" techniques...more like copying styles, as stated earlier. That's what bothers me....anyone could do it. And four days really is nothing, you can take a couple of pictures and eat good food and quickly visit a few sights. That's not "grasping", that's simply tourism.


I think what will come out of this is a "russian-inspired-ish" collection.

 

[faust]

i dont want to sound like a MJ fan -cause i'm certainly NOT- what i say, is come on, give the guy a chance..

sometimes tFS members sound as the 'hardest critics' in the world, it's almost amusing me to be honest..

That's true, isn't it?! We are a hard bunch to please

 

[Spike413]

I think a Russian influence is going to look dated at this point, did we already do this kind of thing a couple seasons ago.

I must agree with Spacemiu, I was sick of the whole Russian peasent look when Gaultier did it for his last couture show, and chances are I'll be even more sick of it by the time LV does anything with it. Yes, Russia has a rich culture that could translate into amazingly beautiful clothes, but come on, it's over.

Is it just me or does it feel like fashion is beating a dead horse with this whole bohemian vibe....

But not just that, think about how many seasons designers obsessed over ladylike stuff, it got sickening after a while....same with the whole Gypsy/Boho thing. Enough already, try something new folks.

 

[fashionista-ta]

I certainly hope he's not going to do a Russian spin on the sl*t chic he showed for SS 06 (a la Hollywould ) ...