Saint Laurent F/W 2023.24 Paris

[LadyJunon]

 

[helmutnotdead]

wow

Anthony really said: Ain’t gonna design sh*t this season.

We always talk about MGC when it comes to laziness but this is something else. Impressive.

 

[frenchiefashionlover]

SL stays in SL's lane. Chic, looks good on everybody. Pieces for different entry price points, it should sell well. Always refreshing to see very few bags on the runway. No Eiffel tower this time and that's for the best. Of course it's not groundbreaking, it won't change fashion, no game changer creative vision but I would not expect breakfastwear/conceptual... either.

 

[avonlea002]

Incredible show. The atmosphere was amazing. Both set designer and soundtrack author did a great job. I wish they had given the models cigarettes to puff on.
The collection was hilarious. I can't with the giant shoulder pads, it looked comical. Rousteing will love it for sure. Take away the garish gimmicks and you get the usual SL boutique ready collection.

 

[Salvatore]

That was sexy !
It was the same silhouette over and over again like last season, but the mood and the woman he is portraying here is just so f***ing sexy to me ! The sensuality, the glamour, the strength, the power … it really captures me. I loved the set design as it reminded me of the old YSL shows in the 90’s. The casting didn’t feel forced either and I love that. Again, repetitive, but the difference between him and MGC is that where MGC puts you to sleep, at least AV makes you dream while you sleep.

 

[yslforever]

Well, well, 100% Rive Gauche archives stripped to the bare bone by AV.
No trends, no gimmicks, no logo, no monograms, no bags, no colours, no prints, no superfluous and not a revolution ... straight to the core like a quest for the ultimate sophistication. I like what it says about the Saint-Laurent women.

It's certainly not a revolution, AV talents are limited, but it's extremely good (and I don't see that in his menswear, unfortunately).
The set is definitely an hommage to the Intercontinental hotel shows.

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[disco54]

The setting is great reminds me of shows in the 80s but the clothes were Demna done luxe, the extremely comical exaggerated quarter back blazer,s aviators, , even the cut of the dresses, some were nice but not my taste. AV has just shifted his source of inspiration from Slimane to Demna thats all.

 

[GivenchyAddict]

It is very safe but this is absolutely divine. The casting is great, the styling is impeccable and the set works very well. Another commercial collection for sure.

The brown part of this collection is my favorite.

I wish the shoulders were a bit less 80s.

 

[MulletProof]

Both set designer and soundtrack author did a great job.

This, a hundred times, the work by de Betak's team and the guy who makes the music (I forgot the name, sorry) is consistently stunning and way way ahead of everybody else. They really capture and elevate the essence of each collection and add the necessary drama and theatrics to fully immerse the audience [present and virtual] in it.

I got goosebumps as soon as I heard Nina Simone's voice .. $%^^^@*!!.. I don't want to think of feelings at this time of day, Nina!!

Beautiful collection. I'm not crazy about some pieces but even these pieces, I wouldn't turn them down. It's so light and comfortable-looking despite the heavy materials and everything is just so refined, and opulent and unapologetically elegant.. and I say unapologetically because we [women] tend to be a bit scared of the 'aging' effect of this type clothes and.. we shouldn't be! any of this would look amazing on anyone [from Kaia to Rampling].

It's a joy seeing someone grow and not progressively shrink as a designer in this ultra commercial/aggressive side of the business. It's not for everyone and it's not really ideal for people who are passionate about fashion and design but it's also refreshing to see cases (or miracles) like this, this is the same guy whose entire own label was based on tacky mini skirts and look at him now, he is clearly like a kid in a candy store with all the financial and educational resources from Kering, the legacy he's working around, and is delivering fantastic work. He's restored YSL to its former glory and looking back, he's shown zero ego at putting up with the awful and often humiliating transition that was asked of him in order to take over this: to not make a big fuss upon arrival and instead, rely and recreate the basic s*it from Hedi, stay under his shadow for a while and gradually integrate different elements and discreetly eliminate until we got something that not even Pilati was able to deliver in his heyday, and certainly not Yves in his last decade!

 

[Lola701]

It was a great show and the collection is fairly good. I enjoy it more than spring summer.
I think Anthony is great curator and in a way, what he lacks in techniques and ideas is compensated in his eye in editing. I saw so many images and references in this very commercial and safe collection: 90’s Yves, Tom’s YSL, Stefano’s YSL, Alaïa, Claude Montana (the dramatic draping on shoulders), Helmut Newton…
This was very Newton collection. Powerful, commanding and wearable. The jackets almost look comical but it works because the proposition is relatable.

Good quality and timeless basics with the sexiest shoes.

Presentation is everything and here it was done perfectly! I would wear most of it.

 

[vogue28]

Sublime. My highlight of fashion month (per usual), thus far and the show absolutely blew me away watching the live-stream. I was in a state of bliss, and was even sat applauding Anthony Vaccarello when he walked out at the end.

Quintessential Yves Saint Laurent but with a modern edge. Powerful and the absolute height of chic - love the elongated shoulders, the pencil skirts, the killer heels, the sunglasses, the tough leathers, the sheer fabrics, the setting and how it evoked the legendary shows at Hôtel Inter-Continental. Bravo Vaccarello, bravo!

 

[SLFC]

I don't why, but I just found it kind of underwhelming. Like excellent set design and everything as usual, but I just don't see the point the elongated shoulders. It just looks bulky and weird to me. Somebody educate me lol.

 

[WAVES]

I liked that it was indeed incredible chic. but soooo repetitive… was not expecting nothing groundbreaking but maybe slightly less by the book.

Nina Simone on the soundtrack was blissful.

 

[Bugsy]

I feel like I’m in the early 1980s. To me, there is nothing new here. Very boring and not creative.

 

[MyNameIs]

This is beautiful!

 

[Scotty]

Not so bad but I'm over the Dorothy Zbornak coats.

 

[LadyJunon]

In all honesty, the appeal of Vaccarello's YSL, even his 2018/2019 days, is that it does something that fashion as a whole hasn't done for the last decade: offer women unapologetically glamorous clothes. It's not very original or avant-garde, but a house like YSL doesn't really need to be. Balenciaga and McQueen can do the innovating at Kering.

On the subject of Balenciaga, it was smart of Vaccarello to take Demna's "quarterback shoulders", considering that this show heavily references the 80s, even the setting references old YSL shows in the 80s and 90s with the chandeliers and the raised runway. I do me wish that he'd made the last look in white to reference "The Bride" each show had.

This, a hundred times, the work by de Betak's team and the guy who makes the music (I forgot the name, sorry) is consistently stunning and way way ahead of everybody else. They really capture and elevate the essence of each collection and add the necessary drama and theatrics to fully immerse the audience [present and virtual] in it.

I believe his name is Sebastian Akchote (or SebastiAn).

 

[Deleted member 7575]

The shoulders are too damn big.

Otherwise it's super chic.