Saint Laurent F/W 2023.24 Paris

[jeanclaude]

Its like a love child of Demna and Claude Montana , but the ambience, casting elevates what is a very predictable collection. I actually found Armani's collection very close to 80s YSL, this not so much. I am surprised AV has not mined 70s YSL thats the epitome of his work, Tom Ford did a wonderful interpretation of it in Fall of 2003 (inspired by 1971 Collection 40) and Fall 2004 (inspired by 1977 Opium Collection) , and I would say that's his best collection to date. Honestly, YSL of the 70s is far better than his work in the 80s.

Totally! AV loves 80s (when YSL decadence began); but 70s collections were amazing. My favourite is the 1940s "scandal" collection from S/S 1971.

 

[blueorchid]

Its like a love child of Demna and Claude Montana , but the ambience, casting elevates what is a very predictable collection. I actually found Armani's collection very close to 80s YSL, this not so much. I am surprised AV has not mined 70s YSL thats the epitome of his work, Tom Ford did a wonderful interpretation of it in Fall of 2003 (inspired by 1971 Collection 40) and Fall 2004 (inspired by 1977 Opium Collection) , and I would say that's his best collection to date. Honestly, YSL of the 70s is far better than his work in the 80s.

Yes! That's what I was thinking, too. I can't wait until he starts to mine 70s YSL for ideas. Personally, I love some of those looks (and some of those Abraham prints) so much. Even looking outside the couture to Rive Gauche in the 70s would provide some great inspiration. I don't know what the mid-70s era was called, like the "Soft Look" or something (hmm maybe that's more early 70s)? The day that day comes, goodbye my money.


jacquesdemys.tumblr.com

 

[GoldenPetals]

The mega-shoulders irk me a bit because they're SUCH a cop-out, but EVERYTHING is basically stunning. There's something a bit Tom Ford about it, but without the silliness.

 

[Not Plain Jane]

agree: i can't with the linebacker shoulder pads
beyond that, much elegance on display

 

[Kennnnn]

I liked very much the use of that red tartan... it feels almost subversive against the rest of the clothes. Was it one of Yves' signatures?

 

[LadyJunon]

Its like a love child of Demna and Claude Montana , but the ambience, casting elevates what is a very predictable collection. I actually found Armani's collection very close to 80s YSL, this not so much. I am surprised AV has not mined 70s YSL thats the epitome of his work, Tom Ford did a wonderful interpretation of it in Fall of 2003 (inspired by 1971 Collection 40) and Fall 2004 (inspired by 1977 Opium Collection) , and I would say that's his best collection to date. Honestly, YSL of the 70s is far better than his work in the 80s.

That would be nice to see, as I prefer 60s, 70s and early 80s YSL, but the 70s to mid 80s being YSL's biggest "cultural appropriation" years. Trying to revive those collections might not fare too well with today's fashion world. It's a shame, because in the rare moments when Vaccarello does colour (Fall '20 to Spring '22), he does it surprisingly well. Even the bright red tartan here adds a slight dimensions to sea of black.

I liked very much the use of that red tartan... it feels almost subversive against the rest of the clothes. Was it one of Yves' signatures?

My guess is that it's a bourgeoise symbol, something YSL always references, so that's why it's here. He did a similar thing three years back (Fall '20) when he paired tartan jackets with lingerie and latex.

 

[kasper!]

all models are wearing sunglasses like if YSL is a freaking eyewear company! and its not even summer collection. previous season some models got at least open faces, now they are all covered, i see brand got a massive bid on eywear but gosh that`s too much

I am thinking the same...They are pushing Kering Eyewear department so hard lol. Kering treats it like it is the new fashion statement.

 

[Deleted member 7575]

Very Catherine Deneuve in « The Hunger ».
Am I the only one thinking this ?

Some looks are too cumbersome... I prefer his simple looks : nice top and a perfect pencil skirt rather than a weird twisted-draped black leather jacket ( one of the UGLIEST garment my eyes ever witnessed ).

Nope. Yves Saint Laurent did her wardrobe for that film. I'm sure it was a reference.

 

[RaisinBoy]

Loved the show. His best one to date.

 

[sanssoleil]

shoulders as huge as david byrne's big suit. horrible sunglasses on every model. gimmicky. somewhat sexy. sexy boring? sexy gimmicky? overall there are more aspects of it that I dislike than I like. dior show yesterday could have benefitted from this kind of casting and styling minus the sunglasses of course.

 

[Lola701]

Its like a love child of Demna and Claude Montana , but the ambience, casting elevates what is a very predictable collection. I actually found Armani's collection very close to 80s YSL, this not so much. I am surprised AV has not mined 70s YSL thats the epitome of his work, Tom Ford did a wonderful interpretation of it in Fall of 2003 (inspired by 1971 Collection 40) and Fall 2004 (inspired by 1977 Opium Collection) , and I would say that's his best collection to date. Honestly, YSL of the 70s is far better than his work in the 80s.

But Vaccarello did referenced the 70’s in his 2018´s collections that were maybe less confident.
Me personally I really love late 60’s to early 70’s Yves. His work around that had a very timeless feel, still very much influenced by Chanel and much more focused around cut and embellishments with a touch a purity.

70’s Yves is also very Loulou de la Falaise as a whole and it can turn quite boho chic very quick and it’s maybe less inspiring for designers. Stefano also loved 80’s Yves. His best collections were inspired by the era (FW07, SS08 + FW08 which was ironically very Montana too).

As @jeanclaude said it was the time when Yves decadence started but it’s also the time when he made like a synthesis of his style: strong power suits, clean lines for daywear, color block, draping in chiffon, a lot of satin. Usually when designers evokes Yves, they evokes that time.

Stefano used to say that the Saint Laurent woman was a woman who doesn’t work and I always loved that because the ultimate YSL woman is Betty Catroux, who never had to work and it’s a bit funny to create the idealistic work wardrobe inspired by the idea of women who doesn’t work or who don’t have to work.
Tom had a very interesting POV because he knew how to mix the decades and references. His first collection was very Betty Catroux, 80’s inspired whereas the second was Loulou and 70’s but then his interpretation of the 70’s wasn’t linear maybe because he was more inspired by the idea of the collections than their reality. For example his African collection couldn’t be more different to Yves’s interpretation of Africa but it still looked believable as YSL.

But evoking Deneuve in this way is an interesting parti-prit for Vaccarello. No Belle de Jour and usual references but it’s almost funny because I think this is close to Deneuve personal taste even if she wouldn’t wear any of this.

 

[disco54]

But Vaccarello did referenced the 70’s in his 2018´s collections that were maybe less confident.
Me personally I really love late 60’s to early 70’s Yves. His work around that had a very timeless feel, still very much influenced by Chanel and much more focused around cut and embellishments with a touch a purity.

70’s Yves is also very Loulou de la Falaise as a whole and it can turn quite boho chic very quick and it’s maybe less inspiring for designers. Stefano also loved 80’s Yves. His best collections were inspired by the era (FW07, SS08 + FW08 which was ironically very Montana too).

As @jeanclaude said it was the time when Yves decadence started but it’s also the time when he made like a synthesis of his style: strong power suits, clean lines for daywear, color block, draping in chiffon, a lot of satin. Usually when designers evokes Yves, they evokes that time.

Stefano used to say that the Saint Laurent woman was a woman who doesn’t work and I always loved that because the ultimate YSL woman is Betty Catroux, who never had to work and it’s a bit funny to create the idealistic work wardrobe inspired by the idea of women who doesn’t work or who don’t have to work.
Tom had a very interesting POV because he knew how to mix the decades and references. His first collection was very Betty Catroux, 80’s inspired whereas the second was Loulou and 70’s but then his interpretation of the 70’s wasn’t linear maybe because he was more inspired by the idea of the collections than their reality. For example his African collection couldn’t be more different to Yves’s interpretation of Africa but it still looked believable as YSL.

But evoking Deneuve in this way is an interesting parti-prit for Vaccarello. No Belle de Jour and usual references but it’s almost funny because I think this is close to Deneuve personal taste even if she wouldn’t wear any of this.

I have seen very few references of 70s YSL under AV, most of it has been tweaked collections of essentially what Slimane was putting out during his tenure. Of late, his main source of inspiration is Demna but done up in a more sophisticated way. Another thing YSL was a colorist in terms of his palette , I rarely see that , most of AV's clothes have been black, white or some very muted shade, those vibrant color clashes are rarely seen. Overall the bar in fashion is so low now, sure his collection looks luxe but he does not have his own vocabulary , most of his tenure has been imitating
Slimane's work. Another thing while this collection is sleek parts, its icy and soulless.

 

[Deleted member 1957]

Love it, the 80s ladyboss sillhouette is giving.

 

[yslforever]

I liked very much the use of that red tartan... it feels almost subversive against the rest of the clothes. Was it one of Yves' signatures?

Nope, used but not a signature.

 

[yslforever]

I have seen very few references of 70s YSL under AV, most of it has been tweaked collections of essentially what Slimane was putting out during his tenure. Of late, his main source of inspiration is Demna but done up in a more sophisticated way. Another thing YSL was a colorist in terms of his palette , I rarely see that , most of AV's clothes have been black, white or some very muted shade, those vibrant color clashes are rarely seen. Overall the bar in fashion is so low now, sure his collection looks luxe but he does not have his own vocabulary , most of his tenure has been imitating
Slimane's work. Another thing while this collection is sleek parts, its icy and soulless.

That what I implied when I said AV is not ready for couture; he's not a colorist for sure, cannot work prints or embroideries, cannot offer a dreamy or magic fashion... Even trousers are relatively new to his vocabulary.

 

[Cocteau Stone]

It's a beautifully edited collection and is rather luxe. Except the tartan. I think he was trying to do a slight ode to Westwood in this but he doesn't have the knack for anything not flat in shade (and rarely an actual colour...).

There needs to be less shoulder in this. Or even incorporated in slightly different ways and not just the same base jacket/coat for such a large amount of looks. Especially with the shawls, it's so dense and heavy that a good part of this feels cumbersome behind the chicness.

I oddly see a little bit of Alber in this alongside the Montana, 80s Mugler, Newton etc. But it doesn't have the warmth he brought to his clothes, and that might be the lack of colour and sense of playful "bijoux". Vaccarello needs to warm up a little, because like others here have said, there's still too much Slimane in this to really feel like something of interest or worth. Things are just getting too same same with him here and lacks an honest shift/pov.

It's still gorgeous. Manufactured gorgeous, but any beauty or glamour that is done well especially during this fashion month is always appreciated.

 

[vogue28]

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[vogue28]

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[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[vogue28]

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