Saint Laurent Mens F/W 13.14 Paris

[KKnardi]

^ I honestly think he should focus on the styling of this collection or any other future one cause the pieces are just regular **** you'd find anywhere...

 

[Deleted member 119799]

here is a nice little sneer from cathy horyn in her paris menswear review

A hallmark of Ms. Nichanian’s work at Hermès is that she seems to speak directly to her customers, not over their heads, not at some hipster in a drippy (and preposterously priced) scarf. She respects her customers’ intelligence and wallet while proposing options that feel honest.

nytimes.com

 

[Zazie]

Those who make oblique insults and snide remarks are childish, petty, cowardly and mean in that "highschool" way. Give it a break! Grow up!

 

[Zazie]

That said, this collection is so juvenile and stuck in a certain, rather dated concept of the gaunt and grungy "hipster look", (those tedious ripped drainpipes are by now even abandoned by Rad Hourani) for once the majority is right, and this attempt at "rebellion" comes across as disrespectful of the YSL heritage and cliched about rockstar-hipsters in the worst possible way. What is the point of self-promotion by Hedi Slimane about what "HS" is when there is so much lingering fondness and admiration for the designer, Yves, YSL himself, his impact on fashion history, persona, style and charisma? In this instance, humility is a valuable asset.

 

[haydn]

After watching the video on ysl.com and seeing the pieces in motion, the collection is really really good. Hedi really covered all the bases, from razor sharp tailoring, those scarves which will turn into must have pieces next season, and a lot of show pieces. As we know with Hedi, what ends up in stores is a more streamlined version.

Womenswear aside, he's not really tarnishing the heritage of ysl menswear. didn't yves only do it himself for a few years in the 70's before berge licensed it out? then you could pick up tacky poorly produced pieces at department stores (boxy dress shirts, ill fitting suits, even up to the mid 2000's). YSL menswear as we know it today only started when Heidi revamped it in the late 90's, then Tom Ford (who Yves despised), and finally Stefano Pilati. all with very different visions for the brand.

Perhaps since Stefano is the only designer most people know in recent times at YSL (he had been there for 10 years) that hedi is talked about as ruining the YSL legacy. But in fact YSL has always been about change (and not to mention, although Stefanos last collection was well recieved, does anyone really believe Yves would a approve of sweaters woven with giant razor blades on them)?

I really wish people would give him a break. As far as Pierre Berge is concerned Hedi is the best thing for the brand right now. And given the vast changes made to the network of stores and the branding (which must have cost a fortune), I imagine he's here to stay for quite some time.

 

[Prescott]

I would wear 95 percent of this collection, I would actually love to wear 95 percent of it, but I do admit it really has nothing to with the real YSL.

 

[Maximilian S]

I actually agree with Cathy Horyn, if she is implying that to 'Saint Laurent' I thought this house was supposed to be chic and elegant not grungy

 

[tricotineacetat]

Most of what Hedi's been showing here I already have from his tenure at Dior and while it's good to know I can still buy that perfect suit or Chesterfield coat, nothing really strikes me as standing out here in that 'I need this badly by next season' kind of way. What a disappointment, but it saves me the thoughts whether I need to make an investment purchase by next season!

 

[darkskinee]

tbh I don't really care about the heritage of any fashion house, if I like the clothes, it looks good on me it's well made, and I can afford it, then all good. But that's just me Anyways this collection made me look at youtube videos of his old DH collection, he's really talented and while atm he's not pleasing everyone I have faith he will wow the crowd again eventually.

 

[Symetrie]

whatever this is Hedi's YSL now; he is making his mark on this label obviously with the logo change and the website change and this new St Laurent man--this is all his vision now. who cares about what Stefano Pilati did? or what he did at Dior Homme? So what if this is Dior Homme redux? this is Hedi Slimane's territory now. and who knows this might be what the execs at PPR wants.


I must admit though, most pieces are not fresh. great leather jackets and blazers but some of the coats look tacky. what's going on with his mind? not very polished at all.
let's just say I cannot wait to see his next collection!

 

[Symetrie]

this one is my favorite out of all

wwd.com

 

[tricotineacetat]

Yes, but given what he's already done at Dior, would you think that lousy little jacket would make the crop as 'I-want-it-so-badly-I'll-pay-3000€-and-upwards-on-it'?

Rick Owens has quickly followed the niche as a well reliable designer when it comes to somewhat classical leather jackets with enough of a sleek twist, you can almost buy two ones for the price of a Saint Laurent, none of those he's shown here or for spring wow me in terms of originality the same way as older Slimane designs used to.

 

[Izreal]

Rick Owens leather have definitely got a cult following amongst leather aficionados in places like zeitgeist etc..but the comparison with Slimane is pretty far fetched imo. RO is on that goth ninja proto alien aesthetic with his asymmetric cuts and washed leathers. Hedi, on the other hand revisits cult models from the 60s/70s/80s which he streamlines and slims down, sometime adding a subtle twist. from what i've seen so far the quality is outstanding, a new level in leather. the hidden interior details alone are to die for (heavy textured satin pattern). as for the cathy horyn snide, rings pretty false to me when you consider that hermes scarves are the most expensive per cm and have not evolved for nearly a century (nothing wrong with that btw). anyways those long knit scarves are nothing new to hedi connoisseurs, total throwback to FW05:

GQ

 

[tricotineacetat]

Rick Owens leather have definitely got a cult following amongst leather aficionados in places like zeitgeist etc..but the comparison with Slimane is pretty far fetched imo. RO is on that goth ninja proto alien aesthetic with his asymmetric cuts and washed leathers. Hedi, on the other hand revisits cult models from the 60s/70s/80s which he streamlines and slims down, sometime adding a subtle twist.
GQ

That wasn't until FW'04, which many of his followers consider to be the turning point of his aesthetic - No wonder a lot of his fans eventually moved on/also opened up to people like Rick Owens as Hedi's design eventually lost the minimalist rigor they once had towards the beginning of his career and at YSL Rive Gauche Homme... You could shockingly resemble most of the outfits seen here with older season Dior Homme, why would anyone wish/need to buy the same pieces again, knowing that one already has them in the closet from years past?

Yes, you can find a considerable amount of styles from Rick Owens' previous season offerings carried over for years in his collection, namely the leathers, tees and tanks that form the core of his look, but there is seasonal evolution and I see way too little of that here with Saint Laurent, especially at a point where a designer has left the scene for many years and is in fact re-mapping a global brand with a new identity... Even Jil Sander moved on to a much more fashionable direction after her taking such a long break from designing for her namesake label...

 

[Deleted member 7575]

That wasn't until FW'04, which many of his followers consider to be the turning point of his aesthetic - No wonder a lot of his fans eventually moved on/also opened up to people like Rick Owens as Hedi's design eventually lost the minimalist rigor they once had towards the beginning of his career and at YSL Rive Gauche Homme... You could shockingly resemble most of the outfits seen here with older season Dior Homme, why would anyone wish/need to buy the same pieces again, knowing that one already has them in the closet from years past?

Yes, you can find a considerable amount of styles from Rick Owens' previous season offerings carried over for years in his collection, namely the leathers, tees and tanks that form the core of his look, but there is seasonal evolution and I see way too little of that here with Saint Laurent, especially at a point where a designer has left the scene for many years and is in fact re-mapping a global brand with a new identity... Even Jil Sander moved on to a much more fashionable direction after her taking such a long break from designing for her namesake label...

And even though Owens doesn't really change from season to season he at least knows enough to know present the same thing over and over...

Who knows, maybe next season Hedi will have some ambitions again.

 

[Deleted member 7575]

And even though Owens doesn't really change from season to season he at least knows enough to know present the same thing over and over...

Who knows, maybe next season Hedi will have some ambitions again.

*enough to not present

 

[HeatherAnne]

I like this so much better than his women's collections -- shouldn't be a surprise I guess, men's work has always been his strength. The shoes, the tartans, the coats/jackets, the suits, the denim, all immaculate. I'd wear most of it.

 

[GIVENCHYlover]

Collection available on Luisaviaroma. Now I really like this collection and this pair of chained jeans are to die for. Also I like the coats and that shearling jacket.

 

[oliverforever]

I'm also on team Hedi if anyone needs a friend <3

 

[Minimoon27]

i'm also on team hedi if anyone needs a friend <3

+1