Saint Laurent Menswear Resort 2025 Paris

I don't know about this.
From ridiculous styling decisions (not only the boxer briefs... are they wearing foulards with belts as skirts?) to cool ideas (i like a lot the combo V neck knit tank top + white shirt + tie), to me it is a picture by picture yes or no.
 
You just KNOW he is the one you want to hang out with, but probably because he got the full look from some local thrift store, ready to sweat them through at a club later. Not because he bought some worse made replica for 2000+ at Saint Laurent. Once again, this is selling an already existing idea to people that never entered a second hand store and are willing to pay for a badly cut suit jacket (with terribly bad shoulders from a house that was known for their shoulder construction, but I digress...) - And you know what, they deserve it. This is no different to me than Balenciaga selling T-Shirts for 500€. And before anybody says 1971 - If there were silk lined jade green furs or silk velvet couture dresses with hand embroidery on them, we would be having a different conversation.

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I think the broad shoulder with slim arms is not a good silhouette, and they should stick with the Hedi one, but I like the colors and attitudes probably becuase this look is still living in the shadow of Hedi.
 
not that bad but all of this would look way more convicing if Vaccarelo had cast a juicy ripped MAN with a slightly boyish face like nicholas alexander chavez (lol just watched grotesquerie and im kinda obsessed w nicholas, that man is HOT af)
 
It baffles me how some of you guys are reading a clear vision in this when there is really nothing cohesive about what‘s being shown here - Not a color palette, a narrative thread or fabrics selection that answer clearly who the Saint Laurent man under Anthony Vaccarello is or what this seasonal proposal of dressing is about, other than 80ies inspired suiting (perhaps the only thing that‘s clear, as there is otherwise little else shown that would show a real wardrobe for that man).

Much like the woman‘s collection that was presented at the same time, this looks at best like a Zara interpretation of recent Saint Laurent collections (which they already have). How anybody still feels enthusiastic about Saint Laurent is a miracle to me as the product looks increasingly weak…
 
I think you can’t say Anthony is a terrible designer… I “hate” (not the right word) him for many reasons, because he is so void as a designer, he is like the insta designer, going just for the look, he is a stylist at best, trying to be aesthetic, clean, “stunning”, wow… but he’s so empty after all.

That said, he is not terrible. He just makes pretty clothes that sometimes actually look good on the clients. I feel like consumers might want his garments just for the design and because they feel good and well dressed in them. I feel like in other brands the consumer wants to be edgy (which I despise), wants to look rich… with his Saint Laurent it’s just pretty clothes, quite unpretentious after all, and I kind of respect that tbh.
 
I think you can’t say Anthony is a terrible designer… I “hate” (not the right word) him for many reasons, because he is so void as a designer, he is like the insta designer, going just for the look, he is a stylist at best, trying to be aesthetic, clean, “stunning”, wow… but he’s so empty after all.

That said, he is not terrible. He just makes pretty clothes that sometimes actually look good on the clients. I feel like consumers might want his garments just for the design and because they feel good and well dressed in them. I feel like in other brands the consumer wants to be edgy (which I despise), wants to look rich… with his Saint Laurent it’s just pretty clothes, quite unpretentious after all, and I kind of respect that tbh.

Terrible menswear designer.

His menswear aesthetic and vision for Saint Laurent is terrible whichever way you look at it.

For a start, what has he designed for menswear that has made an impact during his almost decade long tenure? Has there been an iconic jacket or trouser or shoe or bag or even pair of sunglasses that he has designed that has really struck a chord with his audience?

Secondly under Vaccarello, Saint Laurent menswear has shrunk drastically. They went from having a sizeable revenue generated from menswear and having really iconic shows, to having a highly reduced revenue and now studio lookbooks? Talk about embarrassing.

Thirdly, the clothes themselves are still highly derivative of Hedi Slimane, yet executed through a much more basic lens. It's Hedi Slimane lite.

Last of all, under Anthony the whole allure of the menswear has lost its "cool" factor. You don't see young guys going to Saint Laurent or buying things anymore in the way that they did. The menswear needle has shifted completely. The men that wear Saint Laurent now are in the late 40s and 50s trying to be "cool" who accompany their trophy wives to the store events and shows. It's basically giving boomer vibes and not exactly the kind of vibes that you want to be adjacent to as a young person.

Anthony's womenswear outshines his menswear by 1000000000%. And they were supposed to fix that, yet from the strategic decisions we have been seeing over the last year, I don't really see any progress made whatsoever.
 
Terrible menswear designer.

His menswear aesthetic and vision for Saint Laurent is terrible whichever way you look at it.

For a start, what has he designed for menswear that has made an impact during his almost decade long tenure? Has there been an iconic jacket or trouser or shoe or bag or even pair of sunglasses that he has designed that has really struck a chord with his audience?

Secondly under Vaccarello, Saint Laurent menswear has shrunk drastically. They went from having a sizeable revenue generated from menswear and having really iconic shows, to having a highly reduced revenue and now studio lookbooks? Talk about embarrassing.

Thirdly, the clothes themselves are still highly derivative of Hedi Slimane, yet executed through a much more basic lens. It's Hedi Slimane lite.

Last of all, under Anthony the whole allure of the menswear has lost its "cool" factor. You don't see young guys going to Saint Laurent or buying things anymore in the way that they did. The menswear needle has shifted completely. The men that wear Saint Laurent now are in the late 40s and 50s trying to be "cool" who accompany their trophy wives to the store events and shows. It's basically giving boomer vibes and not exactly the kind of vibes that you want to be adjacent to as a young person.

Anthony's womenswear outshines his menswear by 1000000000%. And they were supposed to fix that, yet from the strategic decisions we have been seeing over the last year, I don't really see any progress made whatsoever.
Menswear it’s been always like that (Hedi offerings aside). No one in fashion cares about menswear because most of the offerings are always irrelevant.

I also don’t think having 20 year old customers make your offer any better. Anyways, the Saint Laurent white sneakers are a huge hit and the hoodies with the signature logo as well. All the rich kids in NY and Paris wear that, much more than Céline tbh or any other brand. I think SL is the favourite rich kids luxury brand actually.

As I said, I don’t tjink Vaccarello is a strong designer at all. I’m probably his biggest naysayer in TFS, but compared to what the rest of the brands are doing, this seems desirable, not gimmicky, quite pretty and directional. Irrelevant? 100000%. Because his SL is irrelevant fashion wise. It’s pure styling. But in this case at least it’s pretty.
 
It just all looks like a costume. I just had a look at the website, and you really have to wonder, who this stuff is made for or if it even is meant to be a serious product offering:

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Even if I had the money, I'm sure I wouldn't spend 4000€ on this. The button placement, the lapel proportions, the size of the notches - it just feels so dated. Even if you are doing 80s reproductions, there are more refined designs you could copy. This looks like a department store blazer, but made in silk crepe to be "chic". I'm also not sure who would want these comicly large ties and badly cut collars. Everything feels regressiv, not nostalgic - there is no interest in evolutions, just thoughtless nostalgia for the nouveau riche to play dress up in.

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I really don't find these too far apart. Just saying.
 
It just all looks like a costume. I just had a look at the website, and you really have to wonder, who this stuff is made for or if it even is meant to be a serious product offering:

View attachment 1332125
Even if I had the money, I'm sure I wouldn't spend 4000€ on this. The button placement, the lapel proportions, the size of the notches - it just feels so dated. Even if you are doing 80s reproductions, there are more refined designs you could copy. This looks like a department store blazer, but made in silk crepe to be "chic". I'm also not sure who would want these comicly large ties and badly cut collars. Everything feels regressiv, not nostalgic - there is no interest in evolutions, just thoughtless nostalgia for the nouveau riche to play dress up in.

View attachment 1332127View attachment 1332128
I really don't find these too far apart. Just saying.
What’s that last suit? It’s brutal and violently ugly.
 

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