Saint Laurent S/S 2017 Paris

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Wow.

And I thought Hedi Slimane killed the brand...
 
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this is really not what i was expecting and that's a really good thing. it's so clean and sleek i can't get enough.
 
I love it. It's closer to Hedi's YSL than Pilotto's YSL, but more glamorous, sexier, and more refined. It's also kind of a throwback to Decarnin's Balmain. I'm happy this collection exists, it's such a nice change from the frilly and overdecorated on the one hand and the oversized and "intellectual" minimalism on the other hand stuff that's been dominating the runways. This is just badass sexiness.
 
I don't really know what to think about this show. On the one hand this collection was quite weak. Vaccarello has better, stronger shows under his belt. Some pieces were really strange here and there (that dress on Binx for example) and that whole referencing the '80s was just too obvious. But on the other hand some pieces were just so beautiful, I'm sure detailing is insane here. I like the colour palette of this collection and the vibe of the show, too.

I'm sure Anthony can do better and I hope he'll find his ground at YSL.
 
It's very sexy, that's what like about this. It's not groundbreaking, but I can feel a some fresh energy on this. Let's see what's happen next.
 
I think I'm liking this, it's sexy but it feels more sophisticated than what Slimane did. I'm glad to see this sophistication back to YSL after some very dark times !
 
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It's kind of devoid of any personality, which is what I always loved about Hedi.
 
i know he can do better than this

there are a few looks i like but those jeans are really bad, don't like the breasts on show it looks odd, lot of badly fitting items at the start
 
I'm on the fence with this one. It is a more refined take on Hedi's aesthetic for the brand (and I'm guessing the reason why he was hired in the first place is to continue what Hedi started) but some looks are just too disorganized. I think the denim makes it a bit cheaper-looking as well. However, this is such a strong first showing from him and looking at what he did made me realize what made me dislike Hedi's YSL - it looked a bit juvenile. This new YSL by Vaccarello is more womanly and a lot mature. He is a mix of both his predecessors and I love that about him. Great casting as well, the best in the season so far!
 
I love this... Yes, some pieces are a bit strange but there are so many references to classic YSL silouettes.
 
I hated the idea of him replacing Hedi and I've been very vocal about it. But then, he actually managed to peak my interest with his ads, even with those bootleg VP editorial campaign shots with Anja. There was something.. something slightly YSL. A little sparkle. It felt less gimmicky and over exclusive than Slimane's work because of his obessions with punk rock memorabilia. It felt More womanly, more parisian in a way. The PALACE years though ! But I honestly felt a bit of the house essence in those shots.

Unfortunately this is really really disappointing. It looks like a Forever 21 version of Slimane's work. I have to say that he does have a vocubalury and an aesthetic. When I look at the collection I see Vaccarello immediately, do I see Saint Laurent ? Not really , not even with the big Slimane influence. It lacks an efortlessness even the looks with the bustier tops and jeans feel contrived. They clearly wanted to go for a bourgeoise vs street flair but it just doesn't feel natural. Thank god there's no coochie-slit but there's no true sexiness either.


We still have the same issue than with Hedi. Where or more exactly WHO is the Saint Laurent woman ?

Also the craftmanship looks pretty bad. One thing Hedi at least managed to do is to use the expertise of the atelier to at least create spectacularin details yet trashy loking garments. I expected to see the same level of work with Anthony and to help him to actually elevate his lack of ideas.
 
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knowyourmeme

I had no doubt that he would deliver nothing more than a soulless, corporative-guided rehash of Slimane Saint Laurent, but I seriously didn't expect it to be THIS bad. It's not only worse than anything Hedi ever did, but it's also worse than anything Vaccarello ever did. This by far one of the worst collections i've ever seen from a major label.

I'm... speechless.
 
RedSmokeRise said:
It's kind of devoid of any personality, which is what I always loved about Hedi.
Click to expand...
I'd have to agree with you on this. The greater good of everything simply lacks the coolness, the precision, or thought to be anything worthwhile. Hopefully with time his Saint Laurent will slowly move out of being an unfortunate Slimane caricature with slight nods to the archives, but as this collection is now, it does little to convince me that he has much to offer beyond a cheapish, ill-proportioned dress. I can't imagine him drumming up a similar kind of following that Hedi had with the clothes shown here, even if he were to present them with a similar severity as Hedi's shows.
 
It´s like he dismantled some original YSL archive garments in order to customize one of his past collections.
 
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