Saint Laurent S/S 2017 Paris

[cuteshorty]

Liking the simplicity but uniqueness of each piece. Some can be worn day to day and others on special occasions. Great looks.

 

[Yohji]

I miss Stefano Pilati.

 

[ThatGuyPaul]

Disappointing

 

[GreyVetiver]

I miss Stefano Pilati.

This. My issue with Hedi and Anthony is that I feel that they fail to capture the essence of a real sexy yet elegant YSL woman.

 

[Les_Sucettes]

I really like. Way classier than anything Hedi ever created for this brand. And thank God he cannot inflict on us that god awful model casting anymore.

 

[zoom]

I miss Stefano Pilati.

So true. There was a true chic Parisian feel to Stefano's YSL. Elegance x sexy thats been missing ever since. Slimane brought the rock & roll. And now..

 

[liberty33r1b]

the house is dead, at least for me. Hedi ruined it, but this feels like the final blow

 

[christian zh]

-instagram/firstviewphoto

 

[mydriase]

after the "yves", let's take the "saint" out of the name, call it "laurent" and not give a **** about this house anymore

 

[Lola701]

Taking Saint Laurent after Slimane is a poisoned gift.
He destroyed a certain idea and standards required for a designer to be at Saint Laurent.

It's difficult because he was hired to continue the vision of a man. He would have never been hired or considered without the Hedi stint.

The good: The dress on Anja, the more sexy and grown up allure, the Logo-heeled pumps, the odes to Tom Ford (sequined nipple, detachable-couture sleeve), the lace and devoré velvet part (reference of Saint Laurent and already referenced by Ghesquiere for Balenciaga in 2009).

Overall, it feels more "DESIGNED" than anything Slimane did.

the bad:
-The casting. He needed a stronger casting of confident woman to rock those clothes.
-The lack of confidence. It looks like he wanted to introduce a new "permanent" collection and some of his own thing (the ugly asymetry leather dress).
-The lack of precision. When you're doing such a thing, you have to make this feels precious, the cut has to be sharp and the deconstruction can't look like it's a mistake.
-The production. Even if Hedi's stint was the one the most mediocre of Womenswear, the guy knew how to deliver a sharp, cool and convincing message: Even in photos, his shows had an impact.
The visual impact of "La Collection de Paris" is amazing and then, when you're seeing this, it looks blah.

I will let him the time to process his Saint Laurent. It was impossible for him to win on his first season.

I really want that Anja dress...I'm ready to look sl*tty at a fashion party.

 

[AnaD]

Surprisingly I like it. It's very sexy, sleek and a bit trashy, but it's definitely not Hedi's take on the look. It's a good debut.

 

[StoneSkipper]

Those YSL-heel-heels...

giphy

Say what you will about Hedi (and I did, a lot), but his clothes, however questionable and in poor taste they were, were always well done, right out the gate. I would've really liked his simplistic take on sleek, sexy evening (yes, it has no real "identity", but a) it's his first season and not everyone has a fully-fleshed "identity", not even Hedi did, and b) he's gotta abide by the Hedi/Kering playbook, so not much room for identity there) if it had the slightest bit of luxury in it, but this was made with the utmost despise. It frankly looks like scraps of fabric thrown together in the end, especially the treatment of lace. Call me up when you can actually make fabric look good on people, Vaccarello.

 

[jescajade]

Marc10 hit the nail on the head, I expected nothing and am still disappointed, it's a bad attempt at knockoff Saint Laurent by Hedi Slimane mixed in with a bit of his own label, the thing that killed all hope was the nipple pasty Binx was wearing.

 

[Cute]

I kinda love the YSL-heel-heel.

 

[GivenchyAddict]

Seriously for me this collection is not bad not good but just forgettable. The clothes embody nothing in particular. Some of them are beautiful that's true but i feel... nothing. I looked at the collection and my only reaction was " umm ok".

What i used to love with Pilati was the numerous interpretations of the YSL woman, the subtle and luxurious details from ysl archives. Concerning Hedi, he was interesting because he was extremely sure of his vision, of what he wanted to do with this house but now Anthony, what does he want to bring ? Did he say just yes because of the paycheck ? It feels like he has no purpose but just delivering "not bad not good" collection.

 

[Spike413]

Taking Saint Laurent after Slimane is a poisoned gift.
He destroyed a certain idea and standards required for a designer to be at Saint Laurent.

It's difficult because he was hired to continue the vision of a man. He would have never been hired or considered without the Hedi stint.

The good: The dress on Anja, the more sexy and grown up allure, the Logo-heeled pumps, the odes to Tom Ford (sequined nipple, detachable-couture sleeve), the lace and devoré velvet part (reference of Saint Laurent and already referenced by Ghesquiere for Balenciaga in 2009).

Overall, it feels more "DESIGNED" than anything Slimane did.

the bad:
-The casting. He needed a stronger casting of confident woman to rock those clothes.
-The lack of confidence. It looks like he wanted to introduce a new "permanent" collection and some of his own thing (the ugly asymetry leather dress).
-The lack of precision. When you're doing such a thing, you have to make this feels precious, the cut has to be sharp and the deconstruction can't look like it's a mistake.
-The production. Even if Hedi's stint was the one the most mediocre of Womenswear, the guy knew how to deliver a sharp, cool and convincing message: Even in photos, his shows had an impact.
The visual impact of "La Collection de Paris" is amazing and then, when you're seeing this, it looks blah.

I will let him the time to process his Saint Laurent. It was impossible for him to win on his first season.

I really want that Anja dress...I'm ready to look sl*tty at a fashion party.

This is more or less exactly how I feel about it, very mixed. Some of it I love, some of it I'm just indifferent to.

It's definitely in the mold of things I'd consider to be at the core of my taste, and there are some really cool, sexy looking clothes that straddle the line between youthful and womanly pretty well -- those gorgeously exaggerated portrait necklines that are basically old YSL couture dresses chopped off at the waist for instance -- but then there are those that are just a bit too undone for my taste. In a way it's the result of Tom Ford's very first YSL collection (plus the painted nipples from later on) crossed with most of Hedi's output, but it lacks the aggressive polish of the former and the unwavering conviction of the latter.

And as you said, Lola, coming off of Hedi's final collection this sort of can't help but feel tepid.

Attitude-wise it doesn't quite live up to his more influential predecessors. I enjoy what Vaccarello's done with his own label, and I'm glad to see he's carried some of that over to Saint Laurent, but it's not quite as intensely realized as it needs to be.

 

[IloveDiorHomme]

The dress that Binx is wearing is a nightmare.

Is it supposed to be shocking ?

 

[MulletProof]

OMG I love it, shoot me.

When it was announced that Hedi would be heading to YSL in 2012, I was expecting something like this, not the Hot Topic/female-sidekick-of-the-male-singer-in-opening-band-from-2007 thing he delivered season after season. I think this guy does Hedi Slimane better than Hedi Slimane lol.. all the girls here look empowered for starters, not like they had to undress/reach new lows in order to reach new heights or something along the lines.. most of these looks have a sophistication to them that adds to confidence instead of debilitating it.

Then again, I've always enjoyed the occasional sl*tty dress .. just make it look the opposite, which is untouchable.

 

[Lola701]

The dress that Binx is wearing is a nightmare.

Is it supposed to be shocking ?

He just unfolded one side of the decolleté. Nothing more, nothing less...
It's just an ode to YSL's habit to expose breasts since his 1968 collection.
When Hedi showed breasts for his "Collection De Paris", no one said anything about that...Why is it suddenly a thing when it's Anthony.

This is Saint Laurent and designers will always expose breasts at a Saint Laurent show...

 

[george5]

Seriously for me this collection is not bad not good but just forgettable. The clothes embody nothing in particular. Some of them are beautiful that's true but i feel... nothing. I looked at the collection and my only reaction was " umm ok".

What i used to love with Pilati was the numerous interpretations of the YSL woman, the subtle and luxurious details from ysl archives. Concerning Hedi, he was interesting because he was extremely sure of his vision, of what he wanted to do with this house but now Anthony, what does he want to bring ? Did he say just yes because of the paycheck ? It feels like he has no purpose but just delivering "not bad not good" collection.

I agree with this, especially the bold parts. Honestly, I watched this with an open mind and without any pretension; Hedi's tenure is done and gone and the house has to move on but this is so bland to me. It doesn't leave any impression and I can't even say if it's good or bad, if I like or not. They're just... clothes. It lacks that spark to make it memorable.