Saint Laurent S/S 2025 Paris

[EDEN21]

I love the fabric in the skirt suit looks. I also love the colour scheme of the all the non-pant suit looks here, however I think it's a more F/W palette than a S/S one.

My only complaints are that we didn't need that many oversized women's pants suits, there simply isn't the demand. Similarly the exaggerated shoulder pads on the skirt suits are too anachronistic. It's not the 80's anymore, lets move on, look towards the future shall we?

 

[carla56]

While I usually love men’s suit in women, I find the first part beautiful but not that interesting…
But I really love the second part: it’s kitschy, it’s costumey but it’s fun! I really love all the rich hues combined…it’s sad that Anthony hates colours, because the few times he used them (fw20, fw21 and this one) he uses them very well!

 

[avonlea002]

This didn't move me in any way. The trick is getting old. I actually find it quite forgettable.

 

[Lola701]

The oversized tailoring is perfect but costume a new little mix of things I have to see the show in full love the long skirts and deep summer colors

Mouais…
I don’t mind oversized. I can do it from time to time but I hate slouchy oversized because it looks sloppy and there’s no shape. Actually putting your hands in your pants pocket create a kind of shape or attitude but outside of that it looks a mess.

Of course, it’s a stylistic proposition and in stores, options will be available but I’m not sure it would look good that way either.

Tbh, of the long dresses are good but the problem with YSL is that the same elements of the heritage seems to be referenced the same way everytime. So I find it boring.

Boring will be the best term to describe this collection and that presentation.
It’s a good thing that I will probably forget about it tomorrow morning.

 

[Fiercification]

Latterly I've found his collections more mature, slick and desirable enough but the caveat is I always end up forgetting about them, maybe with the exception of Spring 23. I don't mind work that's referential but what can I say...you can see why people say Vaccarello is a good stylist at best. Some attempt at modernising the YSL legacy wouldn't hurt.

It'll still to be seen if this one suffers the same fate as most of his outings but I enjoyed it overall. I also saw the parallels with his recent F/W menswear and Yves' own wardrobe in the suiting, but for me the printed tunics and jacquard-esque jackets with the high collared tops stood out. Finally some colour this season!

 

[Irere]

I agree with the posters here who wrote it looks costumey. The suits either give off a vibe of a little girl dressing up in Daddy's clothes or a lady reporter trying to sneak into the men's-only club — the styling has a lot to do with it. The flowy peasant dresses in dark colors with shiny metallic threads are a bit of a paradox: The fabrics are clearly for evening wear, but I can't imagine someone showing up at a formal function in a glorified sundress. And Vaccarello clearly has a limited design capacity. Each season, it seems like he only puts out a half-dozen designs, padding the shows with multiple versions in different colors and patterns. I like how he has turned back to the founder's aesthetic, but he's fashion's equivalent of the student who triple spaces his report with a fourteen-point font to fill out the required page length.

 

[jeanclaude]

Another dusty 80s Yves cosplay (this time with Loulou as a free bonus). What´s for next season...Pierre Bergé cosplay? Moujik cosplay?? La Vilaine Lulu cosplay??

Also I love Anthony logic: for F/W you´ll freeze to death wearing his sheer collection; and for S/S you´ll die of a heatstroke covered under all those fabrics and gigantic shoulder pads.

 

[TaylorBinque]

Yeah, those oversize suits look best in still photos because in the video they are a mess. And then the heavy styling continues. I think he overdid the tight slouchy dresses long enough this colorful numbers look refreshing. But he needs editing and maybe find a way to reinvent. At some point it feels very dated. Also the show was way too long. he could have presented 15 looks and that would still be okay.

 

[blueorchid]

Another dusty 80s Yves cosplay (this time with Loulou as a free bonus). What´s for next season...Pierre Bergé cosplay? Moujik cosplay?? La Vilaine Lulu cosplay??

Also I love Anthony logic: for F/W you´ll freeze to death wearing his sheer collection; and for S/S you´ll die of a heatstroke covered under all those fabrics and gigantic shoulder pads.

I don't get why it's always the same dusty YSL "codes" (puke) he turns to. I think he'd benefit from looking at collections from like... the 60s or something. Why can't Saint Laurent be a bit more "fun." It's almost dour at times.

 

[Nimsay]

Now that you all asid it looks like costume I cannot un see it.

 

[susseinmcswanny]

I feel like it's cute in the sense that it's matchy matchy with the men's collection, but I don't know. As much fun as it is to wear oversized clothes, when looking at this (and everything else for that matter), the illusion of style gets lost on me knowing it was probably just proposed to cut costs with everything being 1 size fits all.

 

[blueorchid]

@susseinmcswanny I think big suits lose their appeal when you realize that most people would look like Kermit the Frog cosplying David Byrne, if they're lucky.

 

[disco54]

Relative to the crap we have seen this season this is very good BUT relative to being a great YSL show its pretty average , those 40s-80s boxy suits would look great on men but the women are drowning in them, the minis seem random. 7/10 for me but 9/10 compared to say Dior

 

[TaylorBinque]

To be honest, all the news I read about this show is Bella Hadid’s runway return in two years. So yeah…

 

[Irere]

Also I love Anthony logic: for F/W you´ll freeze to death wearing his sheer collection; and for S/S you´ll die of a heatstroke covered under all those fabrics and gigantic shoulder pads.

He’s just designing for Australians and Argentines. It’s about time the southern hemisphere got fashion, too!

 

[Scotty]

I know the models are supposed to look like Yves but they’re giving Jenna Lyons. I can’t dislike his YSL though. The end is a bit of a mess:

 

[JohannesL]

I know the models are supposed to look like Yves but they’re giving Jenna Lyons. I can’t dislike his YSL though. The end is a bit of a mess:

The 2010s Lyons is exactly who comes to mind when seeing this collection, but Vaccarello is so good at bringing up a good show that has the allure of YSL women in a modern day that I would not complain.

 

[philophile]

To me, those last looks (the non suit ones) look more like a sexy version of Alessandro's Gucci than what the YSL client has gone for ever since Hedi Slimane was there. Having said that, I'm no fan of Hedi, but I prefer more what he was doing than this abrupt new change of direction.

I suspect AV was feeling he was about to get fired, so he resorted to make a quite literal YSL archive reference. When I saw those suits, it reminded me of no one but YSL himself. He's basically doing what Chemena is doing for Chloé. And that is what is so wrong about this collection, because it's not translated into a modern language or infused with real creativity at all. I'm pretty sure you can find those shiny jackets at a thrift shop (in inferior quality, of course, but what's the sense?) and I'm sorry, but buying menswear inspired suits from YSL was groundbreaking in the 70s when Bianca Jagger did it, but not nowadays when Zara and every second brand is producing that sort of stuff. As a woman, I am not going to spend a lot of money on designer suits, but I look to high fashion designers for the real creative and out of the ordinary stuff, the special clothes. They also better be modern, not some sort of nostalgic revival, because there are vintage and thrift shops for that.