Saint Laurent S/S 2025 Paris

[JohannesL]

He should write a review of the collection like how great is the loose fit as he usually did!

 

[tricotineacetat]

I'm pretty sure you can find those shiny jackets at a thrift shop (in inferior quality, of course, but what's the sense?) and I'm sorry, but buying menswear inspired suits from YSL was groundbreaking in the 70s when Bianca Jagger did it, but not nowadays when Zara and every second brand is producing that sort of stuff. As a woman, I am not going to spend a lot of money on designer suits, but I look to high fashion designers for the real creative and out of the ordinary stuff, the special clothes. They also better be modern, not some sort of nostalgic revival, because there are vintage and thrift shops for that.

Funny you’d mention that regarding the jackets, because it made me think back how since my teenage years, collarless 80ies jackets like that, with strong shoulders or leg-of-mutton sleeves were always left untouched on the rack of my local, very well stocked thrift shop at the time - And remain so if the look of kids on the street are to be believed.

I feel like that particular part of the 80ies (the Dynasty style by way of Ungaro, Escada and yes, also YSL etc.) doesn’t relate to anything today - You can twist and turn it as many times as you want, but it will remain pompous and heavy, much like Yves and Ungaro’s fashions felt terribly dated towards the end of their career.

 

[Lola701]

Relative to the crap we have seen this season this is very good BUT relative to being a great YSL show its pretty average , those 40s-80s boxy suits would look great on men but the women are drowning in them, the minis seem random. 7/10 for me but 9/10 compared to say Dior

I don’t even think they would look great on a man because the neckline of those suits is very low and so it would be terribly unflattering on a man, who like a woman, also needs a silhouette on his suit.

 

[philophile]

I feel like that particular part of the 80ies (the Dynasty style by way of Ungaro, Escada and yes, also YSL etc.) doesn’t relate to anything today - You can twist and turn it as many times as you want, but it will remain pompous and heavy, much like Yves and Ungaro’s fashions felt terribly dated towards the end of their career.

I remember clearly the Dynasty Ungaro style when I was a kid and I remember always cringing whenever that series was aired on TV. For someone who is Gen X this style is so cliché pompous (and tacky old rich lady), it's everything no one who was a kid/teenager at the time wanted to ever look like. Perhaps for someone who is younger than 40, this is not the case. I blame the cultural generation gap to have a certain penchant for specific things and a distate for others. Yes, series, music, etc can really make you not being able to 'unsee' certain things.

 

[Urban Stylin]

Love it! Very 80s YSL coded. Cant wait for the campaign.

 

[Creative]

Empty as always. Looking at a SL show is like watching an influencer’s instagram or going to Pinterest. Just surface and not even an interesting one.

 

[Lola701]

I feel like that particular part of the 80ies (the Dynasty style by way of Ungaro, Escada and yes, also YSL etc.) doesn’t relate to anything today - You can twist and turn it as many times as you want, but it will remain pompous and heavy, much like Yves and Ungaro’s fashions felt terribly dated towards the end of their career.

For me the most interesting part of Yves’s work in the 80’s/90’s was the purity of his satin dresses even if something is interesting in his approach to tailoring back then.
I’ve never been fan of his « put a painting on a jacket/dress » thing however.

But Ungaro’s work I think was very interesting. I think that his last few collections before closing Couture and giving the keys to Giambattista Valli were great and quite modern as he worked a lot with flou. Spring 2003 HC was quite a great collection for example.

Ungaro Is what I associate to the worst of the 80’s in some ways because it was too much but throughout his career, from the 60’s to the 00’s, I have always admired his boldness in terms of mix. He was probably the most adventurous. And Lacroix I think was his natural heir…(with less commercial success though).

 

[LadyJunon]

I just realised that the 2nd half of the show might've been inspired by Yves' "Spanish", "Chinese" and "Indian" collections.

 

[disco54]

I don’t even think they would look great on a man because the neckline of those suits is very low and so it would be terribly unflattering on a man, who like a woman, also needs a silhouette on his suit.

Men use to wear these boxy suits in the mid late 80s I remember it well , the neckline is not the issue so I disagree , the masculine portions are here, the woman are swamped by it but pants are a bit wider and more 40s like , the 80s ones were a bit more tapered at the hem.

 

[Lola701]

Men use to wear these boxy suits in the mid late 80s I remember it well , the neckline is not the issue so I disagree , the masculine portions are here, the woman are swamped by it but pants are a bit wider and more 40s like , the 80s ones were a bit more tapered at the hem.

Do we want to see men looking like that today?
Maybe…
But not me though.

Cifonelli does that kind of silhouette with a rather deep neckline but it’s more structured and the proportions are more balanced.

I wouldn’t advise a man to buy that kind of suits at Saint Laurent, despite Vaccarello’s efforts.

 

[tricotineacetat]

As a man accustomed to wearing tailoring, I don’t think this is the way I would want to wear something oversized or a bit more on the fluid side of things - not with the canvassing and the shoulder pads falling off from the shoulders!

Dries or Yohji do it with a much more natural drape but those jackets are deconstructed, to me there is a contradiction when you put all these elements that enhance structure at the cost of fluid drape. Take it all out and it’s a whole other story!

 

[Caffeine]

The weirdly oversized big shoulders and blazers can go.
I've yet to see any real women in my circle wearing it. Maybe Vogue office but that's about it...
To straight men in this thread...do you find women attractive in these big shoulder armors?

 

[louis]

The weirdly oversized big shoulders and blazers can go.
I've yet to see any real women in my circle wearing it. Maybe Vogue office but that's about it...
To straight men in this thread...do you find women attractive in these big shoulder armors?

I found the models beautiful the clothes so and so….

 

[miumeow]

Overall the collection itself was well-executed and was perfect vision for YSL, as always.

A few things did stand out to me tho:
- the models lacked confidence and aura, which made it so boring to watch
- not sure the colour palette is very spring / summer
- some of the proportions were very exaggerated 80s, even some YSL runways from the 80s didn't feature such exaggerated shoulder / oversize / power suit proportions. I feel like he could've made it more modern while still incorporating the 80s inspo.

 

[Vikingtop]

The Shoes were weapons.... the models had to concentrate a lot to walk.... looked very exhausting for those professional high heel workers

 

[brandon J pierre]

^that exquisite palette gave sense to them

Yes if you think about it we haven't seen Rich beautiful fabrics like that in fashion in a while it's very grown up.

 

[philophile]

Men use to wear these boxy suits in the mid late 80s I remember it well

Miami Vice. *rolls sleeves up*