Schiaparelli Haute Couture S/S 2020 Paris

Anna Wintour wore fake fur and that’s the only thing I got from this show.
 
I still wonder where is Elsa in this Schiaparelli brand...

Oh but it's 'reimagined', JeanClaude, lol. I'd rather this Siriano knock-off than Elsa's surrealism through the eyes of this guy.

Really liked the 3rd look, wish they ran with that instead of this incoherent and pandering collection which I predict will have no very little resonance with consumers.
 
Is it just me or is this a very toned down version of last season? Is he being told to be more commercial? In any case this is marginally better than last season , but why this is Schiaparelli is anyone’s guess
 
If they were smart, they’d literally reissue archive Schiaparelli stitch-for-stitch replicas and put it on chic, beautiful models with fresh and modern hair and makeup and maybe an updated accessory or shoe thrown in to give the look a current twist and present it in an intimate, salon setting.

It would be the best show of the entire Couture season.

In fact....come to think of it....I think all French heritage and Couture brands should strongly consider this.

Consider how hot the market is for designer archives and vintage right now. I can’t imagine any woman legitimately wanting any of this Daniel Roseberry garbage...but I’d wager that a lot of women would love to get their hands on some 30’s Schiaparelli that they never would have the chance to own otherwise.
 
.....think Nicolas’ Fall 2006 collection for Balenciaga.

All he did was fiddle with some proportions of Balenciaga archives, update some fabrications, throw in an incredible new shoe and hat, put it on some gorgeous models and voila! It was the most impactful and iconic show of that year, and still to this day resonates as one of the greatest collections of that decade.

Remember he also, too, had the Edition line when he was at Balenciaga that did just what I am referring to...selecting pieces from the archive and remaking them verbatim.

Imagine a whole heritage brand consisting of that business model.

I can’t imagine anything more appealing right now.
 
Oh but it's 'reimagined', JeanClaude, lol. I'd rather this Siriano knock-off than Elsa's surrealism through the eyes of this guy.

Really liked the 3rd look, wish they ran with that instead of this incoherent and pandering collection which I predict will have no very little resonance with consumers.

Demna Gvasalia is gonna make HC for Balenciaga...what else can be said after that? No wonder why is this guy at Schiaparelli making his own "reimaginations" of the brand...
 
Even though there is not an ounce of creativity in that proposal, I like it. It´s far more authentic than trying to revive an old brand with an untalented designer.
On the contrary...

I think it would require a very exacting and discerning eye...and would be a real modern and creative challenge for someone up to the task.

To sift through and recombine and style pieces from the archive, push for the subtlest of updates of proportion, refabrication and fit to refresh certain pieces, curate and devise a seasonal narrative, navigate which pieces could look best for 2020, choose a photographer to help communicate a vision, etc, etc, etc. And do it all again the following season.

It’s becoming ever more clear that the industry is falling apart, and brands hiring expensive hacks like Roseberry are only securing their fate. They all talk about looking for modern solutions at these brands...and frankly I can’t think of anything more modern than the archives. The solution is certainly not more of this ugly crap that is a waste of resources and skill.

I’d even relaunch the original perfume along with the archive collection. It’d be incredible!

There’s a vintage shop in Arizona called Desert Vintage...they have a great instagram...they do these really simple beautiful Ecom shoots of their collection of gorgeous antique one-of-a-kind pieces from the 30’s, 40’s, 60’s etc. etc. And I’m always struck by how these simple, fresh shoots of pretty models wearing these old garments look better than anything I’ve seen on the catwalk in a solid decade.
 
On the contrary...

I think it would require a very exacting and discerning eye...and would be a real modern and creative challenge for someone up to the task.

To sift through and recombine and style pieces from the archive, push for the subtlest of updates of proportion, refabrication and fit to refresh certain pieces, curate and devise a seasonal narrative, navigate which pieces could look best for 2020, choose a photographer to help communicate a vision, etc, etc, etc. And do it all again the following season.

It’s becoming ever more clear that the industry is falling apart, and brands hiring expensive hacks like Roseberry are only securing their fate. They all talk about looking for modern solutions at these brands...and frankly I can’t think of anything more modern than the archives. The solution is certainly not more of this ugly crap that is a waste of resources and skill.

I’d even relaunch the original perfume along with the archive collection. It’d be incredible!

There’s a vintage shop in Arizona called Desert Vintage...they have a great instagram...they do these really simple beautiful Ecom shoots of their collection of gorgeous antique one-of-a-kind pieces from the 30’s, 40’s, 60’s etc. etc. And I’m always struck by how these simple, fresh shoots of pretty models wearing these old garments look better than anything I’ve seen on the catwalk in a solid decade.

I said there is no creativity, because you are not creating new clothes here. It would be an update, like a 2.0 version of the originals.

They made this at Helmut Lang (in a limited reissues collection)...but they insist on creating "new" crap collections...
 
.....think Nicolas’ Fall 2006 collection for Balenciaga.

All he did was fiddle with some proportions of Balenciaga archives, update some fabrications, throw in an incredible new shoe and hat, put it on some gorgeous models and voila! It was the most impactful and iconic show of that year, and still to this day resonates as one of the greatest collections of that decade.

Remember he also, too, had the Edition line when he was at Balenciaga that did just what I am referring to...selecting pieces from the archive and remaking them verbatim.

Imagine a whole heritage brand consisting of that business model.

I can’t imagine anything more appealing right now.

This is exactly how Alaia is functioning right now. The vocabulary is maybe more limited but it’s totally that.

I think that Schiaparelli should just close because it doesn’t have any purpose and nobody will miss it. Except for the Lacroix collection that was never sold or even produced for one client, the revival has been beyond underwhelming.

It’s like Vionnet. Pagliangula did wonderful things for the brand but they didn’t have any vision.

Schiaparelli is actually a great treasure and the fact that the owner also owns Roger Vivier could have been a great opportunity to create magic.
 
^^Well...they could create magic immediately with the archives, exactly as they are. They’re gorgeous...and have so much potential to be fresh and applicable, if you recall how fantastic the pieces looked in the Met Prada x Schiaparelli exhibit. There’s no reason to spin wheels here with this egomaniac Mr. Roseberry.
 

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