Schiaparelli Haute Couture S/S 2024 Paris

[jeanclaude]

Daniel should propose Olivier Rousteing: they are made for each other.

I don´t understand what the literal references to Balenciaga by Ghesquière are doing in a Haute Couture collection for Schiaparelli. And those references to McQueen and Mugler are very obvious too...

I was expecting for another kind of "robot" to appear here. Maybe it is time for AI to rule the fashion industry!!

looper.com

 

[GivenchyHomme]

I really don’t understand why he’s stuck with this “no color” palette because if you watch at his first collections they were full of beautiful and rich colours. It’s not like Vaccarello who’s always been black, black and black only …

The colorful pieces he did rival Dior by Raf Simons in terms of garishness and showcased his inability to combine them properly. It’s easy to see why he gave up on them. It has been a few years, so perhaps he’ll be more confident if he tries again. It’s not that difficult. He has so much inspiration to pull from.

 

[Scotty]

It is better than BALMAIN, that's for sure. At least it's interesting to look at. Like, did anyone see Dior?

But anyway though, why is it okay for Olivier Rousteing to do low-effort tacky collections (that kind of have nothing to do with the original or even the revived Balmain) but when it comes to others it MUST be derived from the original DNA and the spirit of Schiaparelli!

I say good for this man and congratulations on his bag. TikTok will eat it up.

 

[lookatme]

Also - as others have mentioned, and as it has been said in many of his collection threads before - why does he draw so explicitly from designers OTHER than Elsa Schiaparelli?!

Schiaparelli is a house with so much to be inspired by. She was the pop designer of her time.

There’s no reason for his collections to be so heavily influenced by Mugler, Gaultier, Galliano, Lacroix, McQueen and Galliano.

 

[Cocteau Stone]

^ The funny thing is all those designers you've listed (with a whole lot more to add) have done Schiaparelli and referenced her work better than he does working for the brand itself.

Whether it is the silhouettes, the colours, fabrications, the Surrealism and trompe-l'oeil, many others have done it far better with a more sophisticated eye that does the reference justice. Daniel's attempts are just so surface level and oddly 80s driven, which makes little sense at large for Schiaparelli because his 80s still isn't a Schiaparelli 80s. It is Mugler, Montana, Gigli, YSL and Versace (and again, with a lot more to add) kind of 80s.

 

[blueorchid]

^ The funny thing is all those designers you've listed (with a whole lot more to add) have done Schiaparelli and referenced her work better than he does working for the brand itself.

Whether it is the silhouettes, the colours, fabrications, the Surrealism and trompe-l'oeil, many others have done it far better with a more sophisticated eye that does the reference justice. Daniel's attempts are just so surface level and oddly 80s driven, which makes little sense at large for Schiaparelli because his 80s still isn't a Schiaparelli 80s. It is Mugler, Montana, Gigli, YSL and Versace (and again, with a lot more to add) kind of 80s.

I'm almost certain you could give a 12 year old one of those "Vogue On" designer books about Schiaparelli and end up with a more inspired collection, at this point.

 

[gallianostan]

i thought the whole mugler/montana/ysl sensibility which encapsulated the 80s zeitgeist was absolutely loathsome anyway, so perhaps i'm biased in hating everything this man does. but consistently pulling from the 80s makes absolutely no f*cking sense considering the schiaparelli DNA is rooted in vionnet's revival of greco-roman styles. the bias cut, the 1930s, that odd aristocratic humour, the lightness of the flou and playful use of colour... that's the true spirit of schiaparelli, not this stiff grotesque americanised 1980s yas queen mugler'd to the f*cking stars sculptural monstrosity

 

[Scotty]

I called it.

 

[Deleted member 1957]

I always enjoy his shows and this is no exception. In a sea of a black and neutral snoozefest that the industry has become, his shows are always entertaining to watch.

 

[RaisinBoy]

The guy was born way too late. Send him back to the 1950s.. what an old fashioned heap of sh**.
Sure some is traditionally beautiful, but its been done better and way better in the past… id prefer something more modern.

 

[gallianostan]

I called it.

the hoi polloi lmfao

 

[gallianostan]

also the replies under that tiktok need to be euthanised ^

 

[LadyJunon]

also the replies under that tiktok need to be euthanised ^

Not the Galliano fan calling for pseudo- genocide!

Like designer, like stan.

 

[gallianostan]

Not the Galliano fan calling for pseudo- genocide!

Like designer, like stan.

 

[lookatme]

View attachment 1246012

I can’t breathe

 

[vogue28]

Always per usual, an absolute highlight of couture week for me, without question. I have become such an avid Daniel Roseberry/Schiaparelli fan over recent seasons! Despite being able to understand everyone's critiques, for me, this just feels a cut above the rest in terms of creativity. The drama, the glamour... I'm ALL for it.

Obsessed with Angelina Kendall wearing that last look!

 

[gallianostan]

Issue 72: Schiaparelli's Daniel Roseberry On Creating Fashion Fantasy - 10 Magazine

came across this recent interview, which i thought was quite funny. he seems like a nice enough guy but... he's sooooo dim??? like the living embodiment of no thoughts, just vibes. i almost feel bad for him. he walks that tightrope between trying sooooo hard, but at the same being so unintelligent and having no real interest in actual designing.