Schiaparelli Haute Couture S/S 2025 Paris

[Alquimista]

There should be always a sense of risk in Haute Couture, of pushing things to their limits.
I imagine you are referring specially to the first snippet.
Now, there are dresses with frills. And here the dress is just a gigantic frill (crazy idea 😍).
In order to execute properly that idea, you need that material and that construction.
The model can walk in it, and even if it is not light, the model moves gracefully in it.
So Daniel won.

I will watch properly the show this evening when I'm back home, I'm really excited.

It's about nearly all the looks. I'm all for architectural clothes but here there is a rigidity that I find awkward.

 

[nikkuman]

Absolutely loved it. There is a timelessness in this collection that feels so glamorous. These looks could walk a red carpet in any decade. While not his most conceptual or progressive, I see this collection everywhere for awards season and beyond.

 

[tourbillions]

Too controlled, too clinical, very little soul. If i was a client and i wanted heavily structured couture pieces i think i'd still go for rousteing's Balmain. I get more soul from his work and feels very personal rather than someone taking bits and pieces from different designers like a puzzle.

 

[Mr-Dale]

As always, I find this exquisitely beautiful. Echoing what’s already been stated in this thread, his collections tickle a couture bone like no other brand/designer out there right now. It’s rich, opulent, elegant, amazingly crafted, interesting to look at and pushing the boundaries of couture techniques and of the brand’s heritage. Plus, it’s desirable.

I will agree that his work often feels like a series of individual pieces rather than a coherently connected collection. But when I see all the looks posted underneath each other, they at least feel connected in that gold and black palette. (Which I assume is linked to that “Icarus” inspiration he’s being quoted on everywhere)

Also, this seems like his most edited outing yet, with very little accessories, no excess gold triniet detailing and no bodypaint or robot baby gimmicks. Next season, I’d love to see him do something lighter and with more color.

 

[jeremydante]

Patiently waiting for the show video - hurry up in post Schiaparelli team!

 

[jeremydante]

Too controlled, too clinical, very little soul.
If i was a client and i wanted heavily structured couture pieces i think i'd still go for rousteing's Balmain.

Puzzling, for me, is the thought that Balmain would be comparative to Daniel's Schiaparelli.
-- There are stark differences in taste level. Balmain as lost it for me. There is a restrictive, structured and controlled manner that is very much a couture thing. Daniel's mastered that beautifully with how he's reintroduced the house in such a surrealistic manner that is true to the Schiaparelli codes (which many are still learning).

Again, I would not compare Balmain to Schiaparelli. That's like bringing a knife to a gun fight.
One cannot compete, where it doesn't compare.

 

[GivenchyAddict]

I enjoy his work more and more. I appreciate someone who does not want to be minimalist or into "quiet luxury". I like the fact that collection after collection he is emptying the owner's pockets to materialise his idea.

We can not deny that most of the looks are stunning and amazingly luxurious. Plus, he is lovely (at least when I met him) and passionate.

 

[fruitdots]

I don't think I'll ever be sold on Roseberry's Schiaparelli—this feels like a slightly more vanguard Elie Saab. You can tell Roseberry is trying, and I don't envy the task, but he doesn't seem capable of channelling Schiaparelli's original lightness and charm. The models look stiff and burdened in all but the best looks here, and even then, there's no wit or joy.

 

[GivenchyHomme]

I was enjoying it up until that fishnet dress came out. It really sucked the energy out of the ending. It was completely unnecessary. The Kardashians can custom order a dress in that style, it doesn’t need to be on the runway!

 

[dssfsafdds]

Love love love what I see so far

 

[GoldenPetals]

It is a little McQueen isn't it? Only in technique, not in vision.

 

[helmutnotdead]

it feels too serious and too perfect for schiaparelli. I don’t get the praise for him. It should be more relaxed and humorous

 

[fashionlov]

I really liked it, actually, but I appreciate almost everything Roseberry does. But oh my god... Who took those pictures? They are really bad

 

[jeremydante]

It should be more relaxed and humorous

Go to Moschino for that, sweetheart.

 

[Cocteau Stone]

It would be good to see some humor in his work

Interesting you say that because I do agree, but I also think his previous collections had an attempt at humour that just didn’t exactly cut it. But I think he also mixes up the surreal elements with humour (and vice versa) and can never find a good balance. Especially in the RTW.

 

[fruitdots]

Go to Moschino for that, sweetheart.

Condescension and misogyny in one go, well done! Moschino was inspired quite heavily by Schiaparelli, whose work was, believe it or not, often quite relaxed and humorous. Chiding others when you don't understand what you're talking about is ridiculous.

 

[speedcat027]

A fair few nods to McQueens Fall 2004 show here. And I love that collection. Of course there are many other references like Mugler and Gaultier.

I just still can’t get behind his vision. Mainly because I’m so lost as to what it is and what it has to do with Schiaparelli. Everything is so heavy handed and densely executed. It’s well done, but it just has no purpose or life or even colour to it (figuratively and literally). So much of it is just so corny and cliche. Stuck in a time warp in some way.

i immediately saw some of them and thought of mcqueens summer 2005 just a game collection,

 

[mteb123]

This was beautiful.. Finally something exquisite & opulent to sink our teeth into… We can obviously go into the nitty gritty of it all and dissect every piece & detail etc but in this day where it’s hard to feel anything this is what is needed.

 

[jeanclaude]

He got a Charles James coffee book, teared some pages from it; and mixed them with another pages from McQueen and Gaultier coffee books.

But he forgot to buy the Schiaparelli coffee book!!!

 

[EDEN21]

Not a fan of the oversized bodices with the huge gaps around the shoulder/chest. Doesn't look intentional or fashion forward, just looks like they got the model's measurements wrong. Fit is one of the core tenets of style, intentionally getting it wrong is not clever nor couture.