Schiaparelli Haute Couture S/S 2025 Paris

[jeremydante]

Condescension and misogyny in one go, well done! Moschino was inspired quite heavily by Schiaparelli, whose work was, believe it or not, often quite relaxed and humorous. Chiding others when you don't understand what you're talking about is ridiculous.

Nothing misogynist about it. You look for humor but can't identify when others attempt to share it with you.
Moschino is about humor, it's not a question of misunderstanding. It's a matter of your inability to manage your expectations.

Sweetheart is a non-binary pet name. It was a joke, you can relax.
You seek humor when this collection was done in a very chic way, so its you missing the mark.
The collection was beautiful, there is no need to dress up the discussion with anything other than that- beauty.

I spoke in a matter of fact, if you want humorous - look at Moschino.
Your deep referencing of their house is apparent, @fruitdots - so look at that house and their collections.
Schiaparelli is about surrealism.

 

[vogue22]

i immediately saw some of them and thought of mcqueens summer 2005 just a game collection,

yep like the dresses worn by Erin Wasson and MCB for example.

 

[fruitdots]

Nothing misogynist about it. You look for humor but can't identify when others attempt to share it with you.
Moschino is about humor, it's not a question of misunderstanding. It's a matter of your inability to manage your expectations.

Sweetheart is a non-binary pet name. It was a joke, you can relax.
You seek humor when this collection was done in a very chic way, so its you missing the mark.
The collection was beautiful, there is no need to dress up the discussion with anything other than that- beauty.

I spoke in a matter of fact, if you want humorous - look at Moschino.
Your deep referencing of their house is apparent, @fruitdots - so look at that house and their collections.
Schiaparelli is about surrealism.

Well, as the OED says, the word is often used "ironically or contemptuously." Perhaps you should refer to a woman colleague as "sweetheart" and see how she responds. It's dismissive and infantilizing.

But that's beside the point. We could agree to disagree, because we evidently have different opinions on this collection, but factually speaking you're demonstrating your ignorance of Schiaparelli as a designer and a house. If this collection weren't being presented under the name Schiaparelli, yes, we could simply say that it's "beautiful" and leave things there. Yet the fact that you feel comfortable mentioning Surrealism while discounting humour speaks volumes. After all, Freud (a key influence) has a book with the title Jokes and the Their Relation to the Unconscious. Humour was omnipresent in the Surrealist movement: consider André Breton's Anthology of Black Humour, or the role played by laughter in his "Surrealist Manifesto." To act as though Moschino is the exclusive purveyor of humour is to miss both this wider history of Surrealism, and—as I've already mentioned—to miss the influence of Schiaparelli, including her humour, on Moschino.

 

[jeremydante]

Well, as the OED says, the word is often used "ironically or contemptuously." Perhaps you should refer to a woman colleague as "sweetheart" and see how she responds. It's dismissive and infantilizing.

But that's beside the point. We could agree to disagree, because we evidently have different opinions on this collection, but factually speaking you're demonstrating your ignorance of Schiaparelli as a designer and a house. If this collection weren't being presented under the name Schiaparelli, yes, we could simply say that it's "beautiful" and leave things there. Yet the fact that you feel comfortable mentioning Surrealism while discounting humour speaks volumes. After all, Freud (a key influence) has a book with the title Jokes and the Their Relation to the Unconscious. Humour was omnipresent in the Surrealist movement: consider André Breton's Anthology of Black Humour, or the role played by laughter in his "Surrealist Manifesto." To act as though Moschino is the exclusive purveyor of humour is to miss both this wider history of Surrealism, and—as I've already mentioned—to miss the influence of Schiaparelli, including her humour, on Moschino.

All in fun, @fruitdots

Thanks for your pulls and breakdown.

 

[helmutnotdead]

Nothing misogynist about it. You look for humor but can't identify when others attempt to share it with you.
Moschino is about humor, it's not a question of misunderstanding. It's a matter of your inability to manage your expectations.

Sweetheart is a non-binary pet name. It was a joke, you can relax.
You seek humor when this collection was done in a very chic way, so its you missing the mark.
The collection was beautiful, there is no need to dress up the discussion with anything other than that- beauty.

I spoke in a matter of fact, if you want humorous - look at Moschino.
Your deep referencing of their house is apparent, @fruitdots - so look at that house and their collections.
Schiaparelli is about surrealism.

if you think that Schiaparelli is only about surrealism, I’m afraid you didn’t get her as a designer, sweetheart.

 

[jeremydante]

if you think that Schiaparelli is only about surrealism, I’m afraid you didn’t get her as a designer, sweetheart.

Sit back, @helmutnotdead - don't reframe my words. I said its about surrealism. Didn't say that's ALL it was about.

 

[vogue22]

 

[Scotty]

He still gives me one-trick-pony.

 

[Scotty]

Why does every look have to be so stiff, so grand, sculptural gown, etc. Many of the great designers have literally put out t-shirts and jeans on the HC runway and it worked! This feels a bit too forced.

 

[blueorchid]

Sit back, @helmutnotdead - don't reframe my words. I said its about surrealism. Didn't say that's ALL it was about.

Then tell us what else Schiaparelli is about, if you're the expert here.

 

[Nimsay]

Their current ready-to-wear collection bears a resemblance to Balmain’s aesthetic. However, it is precisely this type of collection that will serve to both inform and distinguish Schiap's ready-to-wear line, pushing it into a space all its own.

It’s evident that he has successfully moved away from the heaviness of his haute couture references, creating pieces that stand apart in terms of both design and technique. There are several new approaches that I've yet to see elsewhere.

I do agree that the hoop detailing has been overdone, and the tiered skirts do seem like filler in some instances.

The collection still boasts around nineteen looks of exquisite craftsmanship and originality.

 

[reese06]

Gorgeous.

Conceptually, I see Galliano’s Dior haute couture fall 2004 and fall 2005 but Daniel’s approach is a bit more rigid and desperate for perfection. I cannot deny the beauty and craftsmanship here, however I am left feeling cold. He could stand to live a little more.

Great gowns, beautiful gowns.

 

[brandon J pierre]

He still gives me one-trick-pony.

He's very talented I'm happy for his success he knows what he's doing everything is just stiff and the color palette has never changed. Luckily he's at a house where he could do whatever he wants to do and nobody's really coming for his job.

 

[StylishCynic]

I simply cannot move past the fact that Sarah Andelman's cankles are polluting 80% of the official images of this collection.

Poor decision making on behalf of the creative team, and even poorer foresight on the PR team's seating chart.

 

[BalkaniStaCouture]

 

[jeremydante]

Then tell us what else Schiaparelli is about, if you're the expert here.

Never said this. Never claimed to be an expert.

Fall back. @blueorchid

 

[FashionPower]

Do we really need another fashion insider / commenter who turns influencer as soon as he starts getting approached by low level brands for collaborations?
He is lusting over Galliano drag queen couture "cause it's ART", acts like he only wears Prada / Dior Homme by Slimane but then he does ads for C-list brands like Swarovski, MCM and BOSS for that easy coin...talking about having no integrity.
He and hautelamode are the worst fashion commenters, criticizing Maria Grazia's Dior while wearing Walmart hoodies and a quadruple stack of crystal bangles from Swarovski on their arms...clowns.

 

[tourbillions]

too much negative energy being thrown to defend this collection. Although beautiful, it is not something that would make waves. After all that technique and craftmanship, i cant help but think that this is still something you'll see from new york fashion week. There's no ease and everything looks forced together to make something look "extra". I still don't know who roseberry is after all these collections.

 

[NoInvite]

Do we really need another fashion insider / commenter who turns influencer as soon as he starts getting approached by low level brands for collaborations?
He is lusting over Galliano drag queen couture "cause it's ART", acts like he only wears Prada / Dior Homme by Slimane but then he does ads for C-list brands like Swarovski, MCM and BOSS for that easy coin...talking about having no integrity.
He and hautelamode are the worst fashion commenters, criticizing Maria Grazia's Dior while wearing Walmart hoodies and a quadruple stack of crystal bangles from Swarovski on their arms...clowns.

I don't trust anyone that has this as a pinned post on their IG
However I have to defend Hautelemode. I see an evolution in his critique. He seems to be reading books and getting other information beyond the internet. I see an effort.

Of course the IG commentators are gonna like this collection because shock value is easier to digest.

 

[Norden]

I finally had time to look at this.
The whole narrative around craft with him is starting to become annoying. This collection is lacking a clear direction or idea of dressing, it would be greatly helped by a couple of realistic pieces that speak more about daily life perhaps. Ofcourse this could be the translation to RTW but still it could help here. I only see highs and overworked garments here, an interesting rhythm and flow would elevate the collection.
I still think his schiap works, in quite a short amount of time he managed to build quite a beautiful base for this house that is easily translated into desirable merch. I just miss lightness, humor and maybe some engagement with culture broader than the house itself.