Schiaparelli S/S 2024 Paris

[disco54]

I feel Zanini captured the ethos of this brand much better, but under the current designer, this brand has gained a lot of buzz since well the 1940s! I think that seems to be the aim right now to create brand awareness, hence throwing in Kendall Jenner to close. The clothes though this season are lackluster and some outfits made my skin crawl. Last season was actually pretty good, but this is a disappointment.

 

[Nimsay]

This makes TFS one of the last remaining hidden places to speak the truth...LOL.

Hip-hip hooray for free speech!

well - you still cant talk about the darlings on here… they will lose their minds.

Lol - only a few years ago saying you like free speech would be an extremist dog whistle.

 

[RedSmokeRise]

Well Shalom looks amazing but overall this collection is just dated in the worst ways. Last season's RTW made much more sense.

 

[michael123]

^^ i always smile hearing stories of people who have fallen in love with fashion from a very young age. because in my case, both outer homophobia (my environment and family and my home country) and internalized homophobia made the path so long, haha. happy to hear you have found your passion so young.

best wishes to you.

Wow. This hit home. Thank you.

 

[Lola701]

well - you still cant talk about the darlings on here… they will lose their minds.

Lol - only a few years ago saying you like free speech would be an extremist dog whistle.

It’s interesting that you feel that way.
I criticize Rei Kawakubo regularly and I’m alive lol.

‘I think when the name Hedi Slimane appears on a new Celine collection’s thread, the discussion becomes at bit annoying because of some fan’s behaviour but I feel like nobody’s safe…Except maybe Yohji lol.

 

[LadyJunon]

It’s interesting that you feel that way.
I criticize Rei Kawakubo regularly and I’m alive lol.

‘I think when the name Hedi Slimane appears on a new Celine collection’s thread, the discussion becomes at bit annoying because of some fan’s behaviour but I feel like nobody’s safe…Except maybe Yohji lol.

Hedi seems to be the most consistently divisive designer on this forum. I've always wondered why.

 

[Lola701]

Hedi seems to be the most consistently divisive designer on this forum. I've always wondered why.

Because some people think that his genius in menswear should be immediately seen as such in womenswear when in fact, he produces mediocre collections, despite the quality in cut, fabrics and vision.

 

[Tchi]

Loooove the Lobster p*ssy skirt!
Love the surrealists looks, but oh boy!
When it comes to actual RTW this man is completely lost.
From the wonder silhouettes to the complete drab of unironically tragic bad taste of the more commercial looks.
Just have the guy stick to Couture, produce nice bags and accessories and maybe a line of surrealist sweaters and shirts, perfumes and STOP

 

[Deleted member 1957]

I actually dont mind his shows, its a little repetitive with the accessories but still something different from last season in terms of aesthetic.

 

[KoV]

I feel Zanini captured the ethos of this brand much better, but under the current designer, this brand has gained a lot of buzz since well the 1940s! I think that seems to be the aim right now to create brand awareness, hence throwing in Kendall Jenner to close. The clothes though this season are lackluster and some outfits made my skin crawl. Last season was actually pretty good, but this is a disappointment.

Yes. It's easy to be caught up in the excitement of a revival, but at this point, I feel this is all in the service of increasing brand awareness for an inevitable hard push into fragrance/beauty/accessory profits. When Daniel initially took over, he said gone would be the days of direct references to iconic Schiaparelli designs, that instead he was "more about capturing the spirit and the bravery of Schiaparelli" .... well then explain the damn Lobster skirt! What he said may have been true for him at first, but clearly, now they think the time is right to lean in, try to create recognizable branding imagery and/or reinforce what's already there, and eventually merchandise the hell out of it. I can see the t-shirts with sequin lobsters already.

 

[LadyJunon]

Yes. It's easy to be caught up in the excitement of a revival, but at this point, I feel this is all in the service of increasing brand awareness for an inevitable hard push into fragrance/beauty/accessory profits. When Daniel initially took over, he said gone would be the days of direct references to iconic Schiaparelli designs, that instead he was "more about capturing the spirit and the bravery of Schiaparelli" .... well then explain the damn Lobster skirt! What he said may have been true for him at first, but clearly, now they think the time is right to lean in, try to create recognizable branding imagery and/or reinforce what's already there, and eventually merchandise the hell out of it. I can see the t-shirts with sequin lobsters already.

His earlier collections (2019/20) felt so cheeky and witty too. That wit is severely missing here.

 

[Lola701]

Loooove the Lobster p*ssy skirt!

There you go, ahahaa! You need to copyright the name now lol

 

[gallianostan]

i find it absolutely infuriating that while daniel roseberry turns this house into a camp pageant mess for drag queens, christian lacroix is sitting somewhere, twiddling his thumbs and without a job. his take on schiaparelli was excellent; classic and reverential, yet modern too, and full of joy. he is more than richly deserving of the appointment, which is more than i can say for this texan hack who leaves me incensed with every gaudy, depthless proposition.

 

[RaisinBoy]

So bored of this old fashioned label for the Bergdorf grannies.
Will any critic have the guts to say this just sucks?!?

 

[reese06]

i find it absolutely infuriating that while daniel roseberry turns this house into a camp pageant mess for drag queens, christian lacroix is sitting somewhere, twiddling his thumbs and without a job. his take on schiaparelli was excellent; classic and reverential, yet modern too, and full of joy. he is more than richly deserving of the appointment, which is more than i can say for this texan hack who leaves me incensed with every gaudy, depthless proposition.

You say that as if he didn’t have long enough at his own house to create and produce a healthy business. I love Lacroix but it’s fair to say he had his time.

give someone else a chance.

with that said, maybe because I’m at a big house now, not the creative side… but this collection feels so corporate in its approach and different from what was before. Maybe I’m reading too much into the sneakers.

This doesn’t move me and I’m hopeful he doesn’t get stuck like Alessandro and can pivot