Schiaparelli S/S 2024 Paris

[Cocteau Stone]

He's always adorned, rather than dressed.

Last season was much better than this, even though I thought it as so stuffy to point of suffocation with the density of the looks. He has no substance, to the point where his "Texan American in Paris" schtick has truly stagnated as have the theatrical gimmicks.

 

[Lola701]

It's eating the cucci too..

I did not dare to use the word lol!
That’s not really a part of my body I would like to draw attention to when showing at a place.

I can only imagine bad taste smelly jokes about whoever will be courageous enough to show up with that.

 

[ACastleOnACloud]

I know Daniel Roseberry has a deep friendship with Hanya Yanagihara, famous writer of best-selling gay novels (and editor-in-chief of T magazine), and I wonder sometimes if part of that is because Daniel Roseberry communicates ideas through womenswear the same way Hanya Yanagihara communicates ideas through gay men's stories.

Like, both can be amazing, I do think they both care a lot about what they do, but sometimes something gets lost in the process and it's just, I don't know, very off.

They can both be very good at times but those very good parts work in specific contexts that you have to suspend disbelief and go for the ride, and well, at the same time that also can be very limiting and it might veer into wtf-ness.

 

[jeanclaude]

I did not dare to use the word lol!
That’s not really a part of my body I would like to draw attention to when showing at a place.

I can only imagine bad taste smelly jokes about whoever will be courageous enough to show up with that.

Yes, you are right...I did not think about the area where it is!
Let´s keep that skirt as a prop for next Alien movie then...

 

[gallianostan]

honestly, why aren't all you guys fashion journalists? this forum community is full of really original, critical, and balanced perspectives - it's the only place where i come to in order to feel sane. the nuanced and non-kiss-arsey commentary i see here is such a refreshing departure from the abysmal, uncritical, and sycophantic populism of today's fashion writing, where everyone worships the ground daniel walks on. this even applies to places like twitter, where you're not necessarily coerced into being a corporate shill for companies like LVMH or kering. i'm only 22 so i'm just making a start with fashion writing at my university's newspaper. the rest of you, though... pls start writing for professional publications!

 

[jeanclaude]

honestly, why aren't all you guys fashion journalists? this forum community is full of really original, critical, and balanced perspectives - it's the only place where i come to in order to feel sane. the nuanced and non-kiss-arsey commentary i see here is such a refreshing departure from the abysmal, uncritical, and sycophantic populism of today's fashion writing, where everyone worships the ground daniel walks on. this even applies to places like twitter, where you're not necessarily coerced into being a corporate shill for companies like LVMH or kering. i'm only 22 so i'm just making a start with fashion writing at my university's newspaper. the rest of you, though... pls start writing for professional publications!

I thought you were around my age, judging for the way you write (I´m 42 y.o.).

 

[dancv]

honestly, why aren't all you guys fashion journalists? this forum community is full of really original, critical, and balanced perspectives - it's the only place where i come to in order to feel sane. the nuanced and non-kiss-arsey commentary i see here is such a refreshing departure from the abysmal, uncritical, and sycophantic populism of today's fashion writing, where everyone worships the ground daniel walks on. this even applies to places like twitter, where you're not necessarily coerced into being a corporate shill for companies like LVMH or kering. i'm only 22 so i'm just making a start with fashion writing at my university's newspaper. the rest of you, though... pls start writing for professional publications!

This tbh, every fashion week I would come and lurk the forums just to get a honest thought to what was being shown by people who are not getting payed under the table to spill out some BS of how amazing everything is.

 

[Nimsay]

honestly, why aren't all you guys fashion journalists? this forum community is full of really original, critical, and balanced perspectives - it's the only place where i come to in order to feel sane. the nuanced and non-kiss-arsey commentary i see here is such a refreshing departure from the abysmal, uncritical, and sycophantic populism of today's fashion writing, where everyone worships the ground daniel walks on. this even applies to places like twitter, where you're not necessarily coerced into being a corporate shill for companies like LVMH or kering. i'm only 22 so i'm just making a start with fashion writing at my university's newspaper. the rest of you, though... pls start writing for professional publications!

i too thought you were older.

youre young so - no magazine is gonna employ some free wheeling writer who may alienate their advertisers. Also think - some readers dont want to read that something isnt good.

its not about being honest. Its about making sure the cash flows.

 

[gallianostan]

I thought you were around my age, judging for the way you write (I´m 42 y.o.).

i too thought you were older.

youre young so - no magazine is gonna employ some free wheeling writer who may alienate their advertisers. Also think - some readers dont want to read that something isnt good.

this is so funny. i think the way i write is likely just a byproduct of the university i go to (the better half of oxbridge), so my style of writing when i engage in critique is just very prosaic and academic. i fell in love with fashion very young, so i pretty much immersed myself in as much history and literature as i could. i don't buy the bullsh*t that 99% of my generation does, and most of my favourite designers are either dead or no longer working.

i'm very aware of how difficult it is having an independent, autonomous voice working for commercial publications like vogue et al. obviously, writing for my insignificant uni newspaper pretty much gives me free rein to say whatever the f*ck i want, which is lush. definitely couldn't enter fashion journalism for a viable career path. either nobody says what they truly feel, or most critics are stupid, and i just don't want to participate in that world. i'm more interested in design.

 

[Squizree]

That's always been tFS' attitude. My original time here was from 2006 to 2013. The internet was SO DIFFERENT in those earlier years. But tFS was always about precise critiques and it's no different now. I remember the time we were so sharp, a fairly famous magazine published an article about us LOL I wonder if that ever happened again.

 

[ACastleOnACloud]

^^ i always smile hearing stories of people who have fallen in love with fashion from a very young age. because in my case, both outer homophobia (my environment and family and my home country) and internalized homophobia made the path so long, haha. happy to hear you have found your passion so young.

best wishes to you.

 

[FashionFanatico]

honestly, why aren't all you guys fashion journalists? this forum community is full of really original, critical, and balanced perspectives - it's the only place where i come to in order to feel sane. the nuanced and non-kiss-arsey commentary i see here is such a refreshing departure from the abysmal, uncritical, and sycophantic populism of today's fashion writing, where everyone worships the ground daniel walks on. this even applies to places like twitter, where you're not necessarily coerced into being a corporate shill for companies like LVMH or kering. i'm only 22 so i'm just making a start with fashion writing at my university's newspaper. the rest of you, though... pls start writing for professional publications!

Go for it - i started in journalism around the same age like you.
For me it was the best school for life - even i struggled often in the corporate media circus.
I quit many years ago to start my own business. All the connections i had made during my time as a journalist helped me a great deal to make this step.

A lot of things changed over the last two decades (yep, i am officially old now).
Influential advertisers hold now the media outlets in a tight grip. I don't want to sound bitter, because many news sources are becoming more diverse and varied than ever before. But it's a fact that nowadays (and especially in fashion journalism) most reviews and stories have to be mostly streamlined and favourable to get monetized easier. This makes TFS one of the last remaining hidden places to speak the truth...LOL.

Hip-hip hooray for free speech!

 

[plentyofhorns]

some very covetable purses…..

 

[tourbillions]

not sure how they are selling but it seems schiaparelli has been one of the most succesful revival. Started pretty rough though but he has really established the modern schiaparelli woman no matter how close or not close it is to the original vision.

 

[Avonlea]

Always the same gimmicks, remove golden jewelry and you get a collection of random looks. He is so one dimensional, there is no depth to his designs.

 

[nilobraz]

The RTW and Couture collections are very similar and this can make people get tired of him, personally I'm already bored, I thought he could propose something different for RTW but now I see that he can't

 

[LadyJunon]

honestly, why aren't all you guys fashion journalists? this forum community is full of really original, critical, and balanced perspectives - it's the only place where i come to in order to feel sane. the nuanced and non-kiss-arsey commentary i see here is such a refreshing departure from the abysmal, uncritical, and sycophantic populism of today's fashion writing, where everyone worships the ground daniel walks on. this even applies to places like twitter, where you're not necessarily coerced into being a corporate shill for companies like LVMH or kering. i'm only 22 so i'm just making a start with fashion writing at my university's newspaper. the rest of you, though... pls start writing for professional publications!

I'm personally more interested in fashion design, but this forum helped a lot with that journey. Before the pandemic, the fashion communities on YouTube, Twitter and Instagram had conditioned me to believe that high-fashion was only good if it was a Jacquemus-style spectacle on the Chinese Himalayas or a Demna-esque social commentary on Pinault's foreskin.

Joining this forum made me realise that I was way more interested in delivering actual clothes to customers than being a "tortured artist" and that it wasn't a bad thing. Halfway through making my graduation collection, I dropped out of fashion school and joined a tailor's shop to actually gain the skills that my school neglected to teach me. The environment is so much more healthy too. Maybe in ten or so years, I hope to create my own label, probably with a similar modus operandi to Helmut Lang or Dries Van Noten.

 

[Mr-Dale]

It's more interesting in motion, I have to say.

 

[FAdS]

I Cant stop thinking about the Grand High Witch (1990) when looking at the first look.

That was 100% my first thought too. Really anytime someone has that hairstyle, I can't help it. It would've been beyond genius to have actual Anjelica on the runway

 

[lhhbl]

Thee sneakers and dependency on accessories ruined everything for me.
Thanks fashion Gods for Shalom Harlow, who embodied the character