Seán McGirr - Designer, Creative Director of Alexander McQueen | Page 19 | the Fashion Spot

Seán McGirr - Designer, Creative Director of Alexander McQueen

I actually like that they’re doing this, they tried so hard to divert from anything Lee/Sarah when Sean first came on board. The suits are realizing you can’t alienate the people who built this brand from the ground up but also the clients who helped make this brand successful.
 
Honestly some of his offer is good but as a creative director he seems a bit all over the place and unable to convey a strong universe.

Hes missing conviction and maybe some of the skills needed to lead such a storied fashion brand.
 
We all know what's going to happen. In retrospect, I kind of feel bad for the guy.

They threw him in there (i.e at this position) and from what I heard (@PDFSD let me know if you heard the same but) kind of didn't treat him super well -- in true Kering fashion. Quelle surprise...

There seems to have been close to no work done to develop any kind of world around his point of view for the brand or anything. Just look at their communication on Instagram, it's disastrous. I mean, they literally shot a Merch-selected pair of boots on a white background with an owl next to it... Perhaps if they had surrounded him with the right people that'd have worked.

It's really time to challenge what the HELL these group execs are doing from a strategic POV instead of pointing the finger at the CD right away. Not that Sean has shown any kind of greatness so far but THEY chose put him in that position and it's their job to support and help to make it a success...

I've countless stories of CDs at mid/smaller houses that are going through hell right now because their shows are literally edited by execs and merch prior to making it to the runway... Or others who were promised things like catnip, all of this to get them refused after they've signed for the sake of "making the budget healthier"...

Well, no wonder most of what we see goes from mid to disastrous.
 
We all know what's going to happen. In retrospect, I kind of feel bad for the guy.

They threw him in there (i.e at this position) and from what I heard (@PDFSD let me know if you heard the same but) kind of didn't treat him super well -- in true Kering fashion. Quelle surprise...

There seems to have been close to no work done to develop any kind of world around his point of view for the brand or anything. Just look at their communication on Instagram, it's disastrous. I mean, they literally shot a Merch-selected pair of boots on a white background with an owl next to it... Perhaps if they had surrounded him with the right people that'd have worked.

It's really time to challenge what the HELL these group execs are doing from a strategic POV instead of pointing the finger at the CD right away. Not that Sean has shown any kind of greatness so far but THEY chose put him in that position and it's their job to support and help to make it a success...

I've countless stories of CDs at mid/smaller houses that are going through hell right now because their shows are literally edited by execs and merch prior to making it to the runway... Or others who were promised things like catnip, all of this to get them refused after they've signed for the sake of "making the budget healthier"...

Well, no wonder most of what we see goes from mid to disastrous.
i only know bits of him at his time with working with his old boss JWA since at Mc Queen i don't know people there thankfully lol

sorry but its not an excuse less budget ......even if its kering he has NO vision again a nr 2 that should stay as nr 2 at best .

sorry for him if!!!! he did great shows like you said no greatness still from him ... but don't we see a pattern here....same with dario guy forcing another incomplete not authentic non vision onto a brand that has a clear vision & dna.

did he not just do the last new collection with Ai backgrounds ad ? should be not expensive so having tight founds at mc Queen is also not new.

Kering is a place that the creative director sets the tone for commercial success items as you might know as well (will change now with new group ceo ) and communication initiatives is also propelled from the cd and teams follow or compliment once its clear a direction or formula.

jacquemus has also small budget but full of ideas and drive even if i don't like his designs he is ambitions you cant knock this down.

your wish to challenge the exec´s is being answered the via the new ceo :-) as he is cleaning up and restricting Creative directors voice with in the company and we will get current Burberry style governance and results now wait and see.

I can't say it anymore but repeat myself .... it starts with the creative director and it end with him in between is the rest of the teams if the creative director has no clear vision for the rest to follow and compliment you can try all tricks of the trade to patch up the business look at ferragamo making slow gains now but with what products or burberry etc etc

even galliano is not business smart but he had a clear vision that at dior the rest of company knew how to milk etc

you need a HS , TF, RL, MP, KL, etc masterclass for these pinterest mood boards designers on world building even phoebe doing her own band is doing this... everything fits into her world like you can close your eyes and see all her world you can even image what she eats lol.
its as if it always existed thats the best thing you can do with a young brand establish and reinforce codes and dna to death before open it up to twisting it or refreshing/modernizing it for a new era.

the POV of business is complimentary one it can and should have a framework but this is one established on house codes and the dna of a brand like chanel can make more with mens clothes but the Dna says no so business follows , hermes dna is hand craft so business follows by not doing machine sewn leather bags etc etc

if a group or owner of a brand dont establish what its historic codes are you will have limbo brands like Mc queen , Balenciaga etc

we deserve this mid disaster era of all that is creative or luxury because people are uneducated on any given subject and too woke to be critical.

its all making space for Ai to be more dominant, we are just in the human Beta version of this algorithm design outputs.
 
i only know bits of him at his time with working with his old boss JWA since at Mc Queen i don't know people there thankfully lol

sorry but its not an excuse less budget ......even if its kering he has NO vision again a nr 2 that should stay as nr 2 at best .

sorry for him if!!!! he did great shows like you said no greatness still from him ... but don't we see a pattern here....same with dario guy forcing another incomplete not authentic non vision onto a brand that has a clear vision & dna.

To be fair, "less budget" does have an impact on the output. Teasing you here, but it's very suit-y to go "there's no money so just have ideas look at Jacquemus!! xo" :lol: At times, there's literally not the money (allocated) to make one's expected output happen.

My point is more to say that THEY (execs) chose these people. If one's not too dumb, one sees where are the weaknesses in their project and therefore they (execs) should act to surround their CD with people good enough to compensate and create a smoke screen of "(insert CD) is so creative!!". Get a good design director, get good marketing, image and so on. You can make a terrible collection look great if you get a good advertising campaign done and displayed the right way. If your CD has no vision, put money in hiring some art director who will bring the vision. It's not that complicated.

In my opinion, their failed plan was to get "young talents (or people who wouldn't have dreamt to get that position)" to get more control over how the brands were operating. A bit "you owe me this so do as we ask". Look at Kering's choices of nominations with Ancora that bit them is the a**, McGirr as well, and I'm sure this is what will end up with BV... Obviously that schtick of "a new era of talents" is not limited to Kering and look at the results...

Kering is a place that the creative director sets the tone for commercial success items as you might know as well (will change now with new group ceo ) and communication initiatives is also propelled from the cd and teams follow or compliment once its clear a direction or formula.
Absolutely agree, but back then (which wasn't that long ago when you think about it...) when they used to hire CDs with an actual vision for a brand. When they hired Creative Directors, and not just glorified designers. That's why a recently named CD (I'm sure you know) has been requested to have no say in LGs for now, the RTW proposal having been (already) deemed to weak internally and that they weren't sure where this was going to end up going.

your wish to challenge the exec´s is being answered the via the new ceo :-) as he is cleaning up and restricting Creative directors voice with in the company and we will get current Burberry style governance and results now wait and see.

I can't say it anymore but repeat myself .... it starts with the creative director and it end with him in between is the rest of the teams if the creative director has no clear vision for the rest to follow and compliment you can try all tricks of the trade to patch up the business look at ferragamo making slow gains now but with what products or burberry etc etc

Mmmm, don't get me wrong: my actual wish it a change of generation of execs who will understand that in my opinion, the key is differentiating your brand not only from a product perspective but also by how the brand is presented to the public, allowing an actual CREATIVE output (from those with a vision) that will bring back clients. Now you look around and 95% of what we see is either the same or abysmal. Because it's either awful, half-a**'d, or something you literally get somewhere cheaper.

I agree with you regarding the Burberry & Ferragamo. Although, I must say I do think that the original mistake was to try to make them become brands that deep down they aren't. As ugly as I find Burberry's communication, at least it's somehow more honest with what people are expecting from them. Search for vintage trench coats are booming while they didn't sell their "new" Burberry. Go figure. But it's always the same: they should have known that when you put that guy there (and heavens knows it's not like one could be oblivious to it), he's going to want full control over everything and therefore change everything, which goes against what they are as a company / their corporate culture.

To put it short: if people with no vision hadn't been named by idiots with equally big egos who look only at numbers instead of how they can make their brand different on the market, we wouldn't be where we are today.

Side note on AI. I agree because many fashion CEOs I've spoken to to sees (unfortunately) sees it as the holy grail of cost cutting and complete control... We'll go through that era, it will crash and burn, and I'm sure we'll be around to see an interesting revival of this industry. Fingers crossed I'm not too hopeful :lol:
 
To be fair, "less budget" does have an impact on the output. Teasing you here, but it's very suit-y to go "there's no money so just have ideas look at Jacquemus!! xo" :lol: At times, there's literally not the money (allocated) to make one's expected output happen.

My point is more to say that THEY (execs) chose these people. If one's not too dumb, one sees where are the weaknesses in their project and therefore they (execs) should act to surround their CD with people good enough to compensate and create a smoke screen of "(insert CD) is so creative!!". Get a good design director, get good marketing, image and so on. You can make a terrible collection look great if you get a good advertising campaign done and displayed the right way. If your CD has no vision, put money in hiring some art director who will bring the vision. It's not that complicated.

In my opinion, their failed plan was to get "young talents (or people who wouldn't have dreamt to get that position)" to get more control over how the brands were operating. A bit "you owe me this so do as we ask". Look at Kering's choices of nominations with Ancora that bit them is the a**, McGirr as well, and I'm sure this is what will end up with BV... Obviously that schtick of "a new era of talents" is not limited to Kering and look at the results...


Absolutely agree, but back then (which wasn't that long ago when you think about it...) when they used to hire CDs with an actual vision for a brand. When they hired Creative Directors, and not just glorified designers. That's why a recently named CD (I'm sure you know) has been requested to have no say in LGs for now, the RTW proposal having been (already) deemed to weak internally and that they weren't sure where this was going to end up going.



Mmmm, don't get me wrong: my actual wish it a change of generation of execs who will understand that in my opinion, the key is differentiating your brand not only from a product perspective but also by how the brand is presented to the public, allowing an actual CREATIVE output (from those with a vision) that will bring back clients. Now you look around and 95% of what we see is either the same or abysmal. Because it's either awful, half-a**'d, or something you literally get somewhere cheaper.

I agree with you regarding the Burberry & Ferragamo. Although, I must say I do think that the original mistake was to try to make them become brands that deep down they aren't. As ugly as I find Burberry's communication, at least it's somehow more honest with what people are expecting from them. Search for vintage trench coats are booming while they didn't sell their "new" Burberry. Go figure. But it's always the same: they should have known that when you put that guy there (and heavens knows it's not like one could be oblivious to it), he's going to want full control over everything and therefore change everything, which goes against what they are as a company / their corporate culture.

To put it short: if people with no vision hadn't been named by idiots with equally big egos who look only at numbers instead of how they can make their brand different on the market, we wouldn't be where we are today.

Side note on AI. I agree because many fashion CEOs I've spoken to to sees (unfortunately) sees it as the holy grail of cost cutting and complete control... We'll go through that era, it will crash and burn, and I'm sure we'll be around to see an interesting revival of this industry. Fingers crossed I'm not too hopeful :lol:
Mc queen did his first shows with far less than what sean has now and means of size of team ...yet his early shows are still more relevant than any JWA twink halloween store costume party sean is providing today thats the real truth we need to remember.

If you're cheap nothing can safe you :-)

he is cheap.

(execs) listen to any expert and they try to get a nr2 at a brand that was doing well same as versace again same pattern ,

hyped brand great !!!!!let me take a slice (nr2) and hope it will work for my rebrand.

we are placing to much trust in thinking the knowledge in creative assessment /recruitment and dept in execs is a big factor when they select these CD´s.

the people that often have taste or vision to select are often not the final decision makers at best advisors and whispering ear look at delphine even being daughter of made it one of the very few with some taste for selection.

all the rest you mentioned i couldn't have agreed more with you. 1000%
 
i dont think suits meddled too much in mcqueen and the failure probably lies on the c.d. Cannot fault the suits for actually picking someone out of the normal names, it was up to him to prove himself. Even though his shows were always improving, there has been many silly things coming out of mcqueen. If suits meddled with the CD, i dont think those silly clothes would ever have seen the daylight. His progression was too littl tooo late
 
We can blame the suits. In Kering’s case, we can blame them because they are cheap and if they valued their brands more, they wouldn’t give positions like that.
They started to believe their own hype because they promoted a number 2 a few times and it worked.
Demna is probably their only intelligent hire because there was the LVMH Prize, the buzz of Vêtements and that’s it. And Demna was probably cheap too.

Sean has to deliver and he is trying but they are at fault. They continuously go back and forth between bad creative and business decisions.

Now in order to save what’s left, they have to call stars again.

Maybe they needs Someone who is president of fashion or someone who has a taste on it.

Jean Louis Dumas had Claude Brouet, Bernard Arnault had Jean Jacques Picart. Editors and head hunters are not enough.

How can we expect from a CD to have strong vision when the person who hired him is playing gamble with every hiring.
 

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