Secondary/Diffusion Lines: Identify

[Arturo21]

I was just reading the Quality of Designers thread, and as we all know, secondary lines are usually low quality. There was also something there mentioned that I had heard about before - something that says "Made in Italy" may not actually be "Made in Italy", but rather "Finished Off in Italy" but "Made in China".

It'd be nice to know, though, which lines are diffusion lines and which aren't....and which are high quality and designed by original designer and which are not. It seems to me that diffusion lines are always easily identifyable because they say "By -designer's name here-". Ex: Versus Versace, Marc by Marc Jacobs, D&G by Dolce & Gabbana.So, which ones are truly designed by the said designer and which ones are designed by a team chosen by the designer (or not ).

Diffusion Lines I know of/or think are diffusion lines:

• 
  Gianni Versace Jeans Couture
  Istante
  Versus
  Boss by Hugo Boss
  Armani Collezioni
  Emporio Armani
  Armani Exchange
  Armani Jeans
  Versace Classic
  Versace Sport
  Prada Sport
  Miu Miu
  Y's by Yohji Yamamoto (although Yohji himself said that it wasn't a diffusion line - it seems to me it's designed by him and it's a damn good line )
  & by Dolcen & Gabbana
  Armani Junior
  Dolce & Gabbana Junior
  Versace Young
  Marc by Marc Jacobs
  
  ..I"m sure there's more..
  
  So much trash out there

Thx

Arturo

 

[maarit]

Moschino's Cheap and Chic
See by Chloé
Philisophy di Alberta Ferretti

 

[travis_nw8]

missoni has two- missoni sport and m missoni( which i've only seen online at saks)
( both are terrible though)

 

[tricotineacetat]

chalayan by Hussein Chalayan is one to add, I think Raf Simons is also coming up with a secondary menswear line for S/S 2006.

Y´s is definitely not a secondary line, the prices are sometimes very close to Yohji Yamamoto´s signature line... in Paris, they say that Y´s is more "prèt á porter", whereas Yohji Yamamoto is more "couture", the part in which the aim is not necessarily to create something that is commercial or streetwise... so, you will definitely find more knit, jerseys and such at Y´s, whereas Yohji Yamamoto mainly focusses on tailoring.

 

[PrinceOfCats]

Armani -

Giorgio Armani
Emporio Armani
Armani Black Label
Armani Le Collezioni
Armani Jeans
Armani Exchange

Versace -

Versace
Versus
Gianni Versace
Versace V2 Classic
Versace Jeans Couture
Versace Sport
Versace Young

Dolce & Gabbana -

Dolce & Gabbana
D&G
& by Dolce & Gabbana

Jean Paul-Gaultier

Jean-Paul Gaultier
Gaultier Junior
JPG Jeans

Hugo Boss -

Baldessarini
Boss Man Black
Boss Woman Black
Boss Man Green
Boss Man Orange (sport)
Hugo Man
Hugo Woman

Christian Dior -

Haute Couture
Christian Dior
Dior Homme
Dior Monsieur
Dior Le Crap

Yves Saint Laurent -

Haute Couture (deceased)
Rive Gauche
Rive Gauche Homme
YSL Homme

 

[pidpoid]

So, which ones are truly designed by the said designer and which ones are designed by a team chosen by the designer (or not ).

This throws up an interesting question - how much of a big 'main line' do you think is designer by the said designer, and how much by the team?

 

[travis_nw8]

i can't imagine a hussain chalayan diffusion- his mainline is pure casualwear
(same with raf)

 

[whizkit]

Yohji actually started Y's (1972) before starting his more expensive "main" YY line (1981). Anyone knows if Yohji has much input in Y's or is it mostly designed by a team?

 

[tricotineacetat]

Hussein´s collections had a simple, wearable spirit lately, but I think it´s becoming more grown-up now. F/W 2005 was very refined so that with Chalayan, he is aiming to do something younger, sportier. I think it´s a very good secondary line, some of the coats/jackets for next season look very well made, there´s a particular favourite - a tight fitted blazer in moleskin that has a neoprene insert on the waist so that it looks even slimmer - the edges lined in a reflective nylon and the front of a zipped tracktop incorporated in the front. The same style also comes in herringbone tweed so that you have an interesting mix with the technical and traditional... think Balenciaga but easier and on a more accessible pricepoint.

 

[kit]

Yohji actually started Y's (1972) before starting his more expensive "main" YY line (1981). Anyomne knows if Yohji has much input in Y's or is it mostly designed by a team?

I have it on VERY good authority that ' Ys for men ' , Ys for women ' are designed by his team - his studio , in fact .

The mainline ' couture ' pieces are where we see the REAL Yohji .

( And at WHAT prices !!!!!!!!!!! ) .

 

[Magnum]

HAHA the Dior Le Crap just cought me off guard and I had to laugh my *** off it

 

[Lena]

i can't imagine a hussain chalayan diffusion- his mainline is pure casualwear
(same with raf)

no idea if that was pure bitching or not, but you are right anyway
and YES Chalayan does have a second line already

thanks for the lists Arturo and Your Highness*

Dior Le Crap? are u sure? they had the Dior Golf as far as i remember

 

[brian]

HAHA the Dior Le Crap just cought me off guard and I had to laugh my *** off it

me too

 

[brian]

Jean Paul-Gaultier

Jean-Paul Gaultier
Gaultier Junior
JPG Jeans


Christian Dior -

Haute Couture
Christian Dior
Dior Homme
Dior Monsieur
Dior Le Crap

jean paul gaultier also has a line called "soleil," and a line called "maille femme"

dior has had a diffusion line in the past called "miss dior," which is now defunct

john galliano also used to have one called "john galliano genes"

 

[VICTIM]

also didnt galliano have a line Galliano's Girl in the late 80's early 90's that totally flopped?

 

[kimair]

american designers:

ralph lauren:
ralph lauren collection
ralph lauren black label
ralph lauren blue label
lauren
polo jeans co.

calvin klein:
calvin klein collection
calvin klein better
cK
cK jeans

carolina herrera:
CH

oscar de la renta:
O

michael kors:
michael michael kors

donna karan:
dkny
dkny pure
dkny jeans

 

[PrinceOfCats]

jean paul gaultier also has a line called "soleil," and a line called "maille femme"

dior has had a diffusion line in the past called "miss dior," which is now defunct

john galliano also used to have one called "john galliano genes"

Of course, and maille homme as well. Literally, that's man stitch (vv thanks vv)

 

[Venusia]

No, trunk is malle. Maille is stitch, or knit.

 

[Lena]

No, trunk is malle. Maille is stitch, or knit.

correct

 

[brian]

also didnt galliano have a line Galliano's Girl in the late 80's early 90's that totally flopped?

of course! how could i have forgotten!