Secondary/Diffusion Lines: Identify

[brian]

lest us forget vivienne westwood's anglomania and red label. her "gold label" is the highest priced of her lines and is shown on the runway.

 

[Venusia]

I read Yohji Yamamoto's coming out with a new mens' collection called Y at Pitti Uomo later this month. I don't subscribe to Fashion Wire Daily so I only read the first line of the article.

 

[Arturo21]

I have it on VERY good authority that ' Ys for men ' , Ys for women ' are designed by his team - his studio , in fact .

The mainline ' couture ' pieces are where we see the REAL Yohji .

( And at WHAT prices !!!!!!!!!!! ) .

So Yohji doesn't design his Y's collection? Because everywhere I look it implies that he designs it...

 

[raijin]

Many great people have come out of Yohji's studio (his daugher, for instance), In fact - she was on the Y's team. So I don't think the line loses much of its credibility as a 'younger' and slightly more affordable version of pour homme.

 

[Meg]

I thought armani collezione was the main armani line?

 

[tricotineacetat]

I love Y´s / Y´s for men for the T-shirts, knitwear and accessories (cozy, big skarves & sweaters) ... not so fond of the outerwear/ tailoring though... it doesn´t work on a very petite body type as mine (I wear 44 jackets and 27" / 28") but I don´t mind wearing oversized tops. No matter if Yohji is doing the line by himself, I don´t see it as a carelessly made, low quality diffusion line - I think those that are wearing Yohji will agree that most of it is pretty durable quality, you can pretty much wear it for years unless it is a very delicate, fragile fabric.

I also forgot about Martin Margiela´s sublines:

Line 0: Signature women´s collection
Line 6: Women´s "basic" clothes - a streetwear-inspired collection
Line 10: Signature menswear collection
Line 14: Sartorial menswear, focus on tailored garments, less vintage than 10
Line ??: Luxury womenswear collection, pretty close to what Martin did for Hermès before he was succeeded by Gaultier.
Line ??: Artisanal: Re-worked, Recycled, Re...whatever. All the crazy experimentation with deadstock garments goes here.
Line ??: Women´s Accessories & Footwear (starting from F/W 2005)
Line ??: Men´s Accessories & Footwear (starting from F/W 2005)

 

[tricotineacetat]

BTW, how is it with "Balenciaga Le Dix"? Is it a diffusion line or the mainline collection?

 

[EdK]

i didnt really see emporio armani as a diffusion line, i just saw it as a brand catering to a different age group. But armani collezioni white label is a diffusion line to the black label.

 

[brian]

BTW, how is it with "Balenciaga Le Dix"? Is it a diffusion line or the mainline collection?

balenciaga le dix is the main collection by nicolas ghesquiere that you see on the runway. there's also "balenciaga.collection," which is rehashes of old designs from the 60's by cristobal balenciaga.

 

[em 692]

How does everyone keep track of this information?

I mean, yea, I'm a fast learner....

but if only school was this interesting

 

[brian]

How does everyone keep track of this information?

we're all nuts

 

[em 692]

Here is D&G:

To me, this line is especially horrible...



Look at the sparkly logo, its something a little kid would wear...

Does anyone actually like this??

And if you do...

 

[softgrey]

This throws up an interesting question - how much of a big 'main line' do you think is designer by the said designer, and how much by the team?

my assumption is that it differs from house to house...

we know that pseudo-designers (glorified stylists) ..like marc jacobs and tom ford have to have a strong team which they direct...

but i know that plenty of designers really enjoy the process and some actually refuse to share many of the responsibilities...

but i think that the 'team' approach has become more and more common these days...

 

[jhaime]

michiko koshino, fake london genius & griffin all carry made in italy tags...i could beleive griffin is made there, whether or not the other 2 are is debatable...

 

[Venusia]

More info on Y :

Japanese designer Yohji Yamamoto is to launch a brand new men's collection next month in Italy.

The new Y line, produced entirely in Italy, will encompass a complete wardrobe for men including tailoring - suiting, jackets, trousers, coats – plus shirts, ties, shoes and belts. Previous Yamamoto and Y's collections were always made in Japan, except for some knitwear.

To differentiate the Y collection, Yamamoto will develop special fabrics with his preferred Italian mills, the house said. Retail prices for Y will range from 1,300 to 1,600 Euros for a Spring/Summer suit and between 1,600 – 2,200 Euros for an Autumn/Winter suit - pricing it between the signature collection and the Y's line.

Y will be divided into three main silhouettes - close to the body, the more classic Yohji boxy and classic with a twist - and is clearly aimed at major department store buyers.

 

[Arturo21]

So, quality is very good. It's good that he developed fabrics and so..and thx for explaining about the team, Raijin . But does he get directly involved in it, meaning more than just sayin "I like" or "I don't like" or "Make this season something around these lines"?

Thx for posting, Venusia

 

[Arturo21]

I love Y´s / Y´s for men for the T-shirts, knitwear and accessories (cozy, big skarves & sweaters) ... not so fond of the outerwear/ tailoring though... it doesn´t work on a very petite body type as mine (I wear 44 jackets and 27" / 28") but I don´t mind wearing oversized tops. No matter if Yohji is doing the line by himself, I don´t see it as a carelessly made, low quality diffusion line - I think those that are wearing Yohji will agree that most of it is pretty durable quality, you can pretty much wear it for years unless it is a very delicate, fragile fabric.

I also forgot about Martin Margiela´s sublines:

Line 0: Signature women´s collection
Line 6: Women´s "basic" clothes - a streetwear-inspired collection
Line 10: Signature menswear collection
Line 14: Sartorial menswear, focus on tailored garments, less vintage than 10
Line ??: Luxury womenswear collection, pretty close to what Martin did for Hermès before he was succeeded by Gaultier.
Line ??: Artisanal: Re-worked, Recycled, Re...whatever. All the crazy experimentation with stock garments goes here.
Line ??: Women´s Accessories & Footwear (starting from F/W 2005)
Line ??: Men´s Accessories & Footwear (starting from F/W 2005)

Are those all diffusion lines? It seems to me they're all more of an "experimental" type or "things he wants to do and seperates them by name". I really love the Artisanal Line

Em_692...I don't understand how anyone can like D&G, period

 

[droogist]

Are those all diffusion lines? It seems to me they're all more of an "experimental" type or "things he wants to do and seperates them by name". I really love the Artisanal Line

I think the only one that can be considered a proper diffusion line is Margiela 6, as it's at a lower price point. I can fill in the gaps for the rest:
Line 0 is the artisanal line
Line 1 is the women's collection
Line 4 - classic women's pieces
Line 11 - accessories for men & women
Line 22 - shoes for men & women

 

[PrinceOfCats]

i didnt really see emporio armani as a diffusion line, i just saw it as a brand catering to a different age group. But armani collezioni white label is a diffusion line to the black label.

Collezioni is sub-contracted - Armani have no part in the design process. Emporio could well be also and the quality is not nearly as good.

 

[Arturo21]

Emporio Armani is a diffusion line, according to Arena Homme +...but he does design it.