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Sienna Miller
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the dress and shoes are great
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this is the article of Matthew Williamson and he mention Sienna Miller
this is the article of Matthew Williamson and he mention Sienna Miller
Matthew Williamson: welcome to my world
Last Updated: 12:01am BST 21/10/2007
To celebrate ten triumphant years on the international catwalks, the British designer Matthew Williamson invited Kate Finnigan to follow him as he prepared to show two different collections in two different cities over the course of one very busy month
SOME TIME IN THE EARLY 1980S
Matthew Williamson: ‘The Matthew girl wouldn’t mind going to Ibiza and getting a bit grungy. The Pucci woman is snappy and high-maintenance’Chorlton, Manchester
Even as an 11-year-old, Matthew Williamson stands out. It's impossible not to notice him, this exceptionally beautiful, elegant, older boy as he walks up the road to school. I know him only from a distance but one day he comes into our house with his friend – Abigail, was it? He doesn't say much. He holds his head high and looks aloof. Like he'd rather be somewhere else.
16 AUGUST 2007
Matthew Williamson studio, Mayfair, London
Twenty-odd years later, the remarkable face of the little boy is still there – the big blue-green eyes, porcelain skin, sculpted cheekbones – but now it belongs to a confident 35-year-old designer who's definitely made it to Somewhere Else.
Today he's sitting at a boardroom table, in the smart Georgian Mayfair building that is his studio. Alongside his business partner and ex-boyfriend Joseph Velosa he's hosting a meeting with a team from the Design Museum, which in two months hosts the retrospective 'Matthew Williamson: 10 Years in Fashion'.
Williamson, who's retained his Mancunian accent, listens to the discussion with his head on one side and his left leg drawn up on the chair. The working dynamic between him and Velosa is clear. Williamson says yes; Velosa, very elegantly, says no. A prize is needed for a design competition, which will run alongside the show. 'A month's work experience?' suggests Williamson. 'A day, I think,' says Velosa, lightly. A month might be stretching it.'
It was in 1997 that Williamson, a graduate of Central St Martins, shot into the spotlight when Helena Christensen and Kate Moss modelled for his first show – thanks to the stellar connections of his friend Jade Jagger, whom he'd met when she called him after wearing a skirt of his in Tatler. Since then, with the support of his parents, who moved to London and worked with him for seven years, and Velosa, a philosophy graduate, Williamson has turned a tiny, technicoloured collection of dresses into an internationally recognised brand of luxury boho, worn by Kylie Minogue, Keira Knightley and his current muse, Sienna Miller. 'When I was ten I drew a picture of a shop with a pink sign,' he recalls. Now he's got one just like it on Bruton Street. He's extended his design flair into cosmetics, interiors and a successful Designers at Debenhams range. In 2005 he was made creative director of the Italian house Emilio Pucci.
Williamson has not been without his critics. His first collection for Pucci wasn't warmly received and some have dismissed his own label's floaty and flirty Ibiza-chic. 'It's just beautiful clothing. You can't dissect it,' he admits. ' Sienna Miller's going to put it on her back and that will really aggravate some people. But she's going to put it on her back because she loves it and, personally, I think that's fantastic.'
The next two months are set to be the most high-profile of Williamson's career. After five years showing in New York, he is returning to London Fashion Week for his anniversary show. Six days later he'll unveil his Pucci collection in Milan. Three weeks after that the exhibition will open. He's nervous. 'If I think about it too hard, it freaks me out,' he says, laughing.
18 SEPTEMBER
Sanderson Hotel, London
It's the day before the show that will become the most talked-about event of London Fashion Week, and Williamson hasn't slept. 'We did the running order yesterday but in the middle of the night I realised I was sending it out in the wrong order,' he says, not looking in the least bit ruffled – no tantrums and tiaras here. 'So at eight o'clock this morning I had to call everyone back in and change it all.'
Williamson and Velosa and a squad of casting directors and stylists are installed in the all-white penthouse suite with views across a blue-skied London. Every half hour an international model by the name of Olya or Anja stops by (again) to try on the clothes she'll model tomorrow. To the incongruous squawking of Radio 1 she clonks over the white floorboards in high lace-up sandals and the kind of spicy, sexy numbers that have become quintessential Williamson – butterfly-print chiffon party dresses, Aztec beaded shifts, lean candy-striped trousers and glimmering, throw-on cocktail tops.
'If I don't show this collection in a very ordered manner, it could look like a jumble sale,' says Williamson. 'So now I've got a story. The girl is a British urban nomad who's about to go on her travels. The first outfit she's going to wear, here' – he pulls at a striped yellow blazer – 'is sunglasses, jacket, a swimsuit and a travel bag. I think when people see that, whether they like it or not, they'll get the point.' That point is an enticing promise that he stitches into every collection: come with me and we'll find a more exotic horizon, a more fabulous sunset.
During a hiatus between models, Williamson sits down on the sofa for a chat. He's warm and open but I can't say he's been particularly wowed by our Manchester connection. 'Bizarre,' he says, the big eyes widening, but that's all. Granted, he's got a lot on his plate today but later I think, well, why would he want a big love-in about Manchester? After all, he's created a multimillion-pound business out of his desperate desire to escape it. As he says, his flamboyant aesthetic is 'the extreme opposite' of the environment he grew up in. 'I know it sounds so negative but, if I were to describe Manchester as a colour, it would be grey. Grey and industrial. And from a young age I felt a tension about that,' he says. 'I knew this wasn't my life. Now I love to travel and I go to the most exotic destinations I can find – Bali, Mauritius, India – the places with the hottest climates, the sexiest clothes, the brightest colours. But back then it was my work that was my escape.'
Williamson recently bought a cottage in the middle of Hampstead Heath, which sounds a million miles away from suburban Manchester. Ironically, his next-door neighbour happens to be Liam Gallagher.
19 SEPTEMBER
MW show, Eaton Square, London
9.30am Small independent fashion labels can't afford to be patriotic and for the past five years Williamson has been unashamed about scooting Stateside every six months to go where the big buyers are. It's been a wise decision. In August the company won investment from TSM Capital, founded by the former Bloomingdale's chairman, Marvin Traub, which will see new Matthew Williamson shops opening in Los Angeles and Paris.
But now, for one morning only, in a marquee on the south side of Eaton Square, the show's come home. And what a show. Backstage (where Williamson's in a make-up chair wearing eye-bag patches), there's a palpable buzz. And perhaps it can't be entirely down to anticipation of the spring/summer 2008 collection. It's not; Melissa, Williamson's PR, can't contain it any longer. Two days ago Prince – currently performing in London – phoned to ask if he could open the show. Williamson, naturally, jumped at the chance. 'But don't tell anyone,' Melissa says. Is she kidding? This is the coup of the week! Even Trudie Styler is looking excited.
12.20pm A cheer goes up from the models backstage. Two minutes later the teeny, top-hatted Prince enters the tent and makes his way to a front-row seat, which Velosa, who is a mite intimidating, has been guarding furiously. Even before Prince starts whispering into a mike the crowd has gone wild. It's a risky strategy – if the collection doesn't live up to the special guest, it will be entirely embarrassing. But there's no chance of that. The confection of colour and print is irresistible. Williamson's crowd welcomes him back rapturously.
9.15pm Inside the hot new nightclub Bungalow 8 people are still talking Prince. 'Apparently, he'll be here in two minutes,' goes the whisper.
11pm Although Sienna Miller, Rhys Ifans, Deborah Harry and model-of-the-moment Agyness Deyn all show for the after-party, this isn't an OTT showbiz affair. The crowd is made up of Williamson's friends and family (his mum and dad, who were on the front row earlier and his sister, Andrea) and the 35-strong Williamson team. Williamson and Miller look like children as they move through the crowd holding hands. Meanwhile, I chinwag with Matthew's mum's nice friend, Geraldine, who it turns out knows almost my entire extended family from Chorlton and is also related to my first primary-school teacher. Never imagined I'd be standing in London's hippest nightclub chatting about Miss O'Donohue. 'Matthew's dad's been told Prince is going to be here in two minutes,' whispers Geraldine.
20 SEPTEMBER
Williamson and Prince are splashed across almost every national newspaper.
27 SEPTEMBER
Sala Montenapoleone, Milan
A week later and it's chucking it down in Milan. Inside, an hour before show time, Williamson saunters down the plastic-covered white catwalk. 'You look calm,' I comment. 'As always,' he says wryly.
Williamson is contracted to Pucci for 50 per cent of his time. Two major collections for different houses is a big undertaking. He separates them in his own mind by creating different personae for each label. 'The Matthew girl is bohemian and wouldn't mind going to Ibiza and getting a bit grungy. The Pucci woman is snappy and high-maintenance,' he says. 'T he Matthew girl is barefoot, Pucci is in high heels.'
Even if he didn't have to juggle his workload, the Pucci gig would be tricky. 'Everybody thinks they know what Pucci is. It's Capri, jet-set, bikini, swirly jersey – and that's great, but it also makes my position difficult,' he says. 'Because if I just do that, I'm no good, but if I move too far away, people will say, "That's not Pucci." Suzy Menkes [the fashion editor of the International Herald Tribune] thinks she knows what Pucci was and what it should be. But actually doing it is a nother story.'
For this season, instead of reworking archive prints, he's created his own inspired by 'neon tubes of light'. In the deconstructed shifts and jackets, the 1970s-style kaftans and Aztec prints that make their way down the catwalk, it's easy to see what Williamson is bringing to this Pucci party. Later that day Suzy Menkes writes, 'The British designer is making a good straightforward job with brand Pucci.' Mission accomplished.
2 OCTOBER
On the phone, London
'It's all gone better than I ever expected,' Williamson says over his mobile a week later. 'We've had a great reaction to both the shows. It feels like a line drawn in the sand. Now I can move on.'
But with the exhibition approaching, the pace hasn't dropped. 'It feels like my third show,' he says. And a bit like This Is Your Life. ' It's weird and daunting, seeing the past ten years of work put up for people to analyse. But it's too late to turn back now.' He laughs. 'Nah, I wouldn't want to. It's just a bit nerve-wracking.'
I wonder how he's changed in the past ten years? 'For a while I struggled with people's perception of my label,' he says. 'At the start I was in such a mood about that. I wanted to be cool and I wasn't cool. After the first show the reviews all said the same things: Jade Jagger, fuchsia pink, India. I'd say to Joseph, "Argh, it drives me insane."' He adopts an insistent voice: '"I can do leather, I can do suits, I can do black, I'm a designer." But Joseph would say, "You need to learn to embrace what you are. The travel, the colour, the girl – that's the DNA of our brand, that's great, that's what makes a label." Ten years later I can see he was right.'
'Matthew Williamson: 10 Years in Fashion' is at the Design Museum, London SE1 (designmuseum.org; 0870 833 9955) until 31 January
http://www.telegraph.co.uk/fashion/...=/fashion/2007/10/21/st_matthewwilliamson.xml
this is the article of Matthew Williamson and he mention Sienna Miller
Matthew Williamson: welcome to my world
Last Updated: 12:01am BST 21/10/2007
To celebrate ten triumphant years on the international catwalks, the British designer Matthew Williamson invited Kate Finnigan to follow him as he prepared to show two different collections in two different cities over the course of one very busy month
SOME TIME IN THE EARLY 1980S
Even as an 11-year-old, Matthew Williamson stands out. It's impossible not to notice him, this exceptionally beautiful, elegant, older boy as he walks up the road to school. I know him only from a distance but one day he comes into our house with his friend – Abigail, was it? He doesn't say much. He holds his head high and looks aloof. Like he'd rather be somewhere else.
16 AUGUST 2007
Matthew Williamson studio, Mayfair, London
Twenty-odd years later, the remarkable face of the little boy is still there – the big blue-green eyes, porcelain skin, sculpted cheekbones – but now it belongs to a confident 35-year-old designer who's definitely made it to Somewhere Else.
Today he's sitting at a boardroom table, in the smart Georgian Mayfair building that is his studio. Alongside his business partner and ex-boyfriend Joseph Velosa he's hosting a meeting with a team from the Design Museum, which in two months hosts the retrospective 'Matthew Williamson: 10 Years in Fashion'.
Williamson, who's retained his Mancunian accent, listens to the discussion with his head on one side and his left leg drawn up on the chair. The working dynamic between him and Velosa is clear. Williamson says yes; Velosa, very elegantly, says no. A prize is needed for a design competition, which will run alongside the show. 'A month's work experience?' suggests Williamson. 'A day, I think,' says Velosa, lightly. A month might be stretching it.'
It was in 1997 that Williamson, a graduate of Central St Martins, shot into the spotlight when Helena Christensen and Kate Moss modelled for his first show – thanks to the stellar connections of his friend Jade Jagger, whom he'd met when she called him after wearing a skirt of his in Tatler. Since then, with the support of his parents, who moved to London and worked with him for seven years, and Velosa, a philosophy graduate, Williamson has turned a tiny, technicoloured collection of dresses into an internationally recognised brand of luxury boho, worn by Kylie Minogue, Keira Knightley and his current muse, Sienna Miller. 'When I was ten I drew a picture of a shop with a pink sign,' he recalls. Now he's got one just like it on Bruton Street. He's extended his design flair into cosmetics, interiors and a successful Designers at Debenhams range. In 2005 he was made creative director of the Italian house Emilio Pucci.
Williamson has not been without his critics. His first collection for Pucci wasn't warmly received and some have dismissed his own label's floaty and flirty Ibiza-chic. 'It's just beautiful clothing. You can't dissect it,' he admits. ' Sienna Miller's going to put it on her back and that will really aggravate some people. But she's going to put it on her back because she loves it and, personally, I think that's fantastic.'
The next two months are set to be the most high-profile of Williamson's career. After five years showing in New York, he is returning to London Fashion Week for his anniversary show. Six days later he'll unveil his Pucci collection in Milan. Three weeks after that the exhibition will open. He's nervous. 'If I think about it too hard, it freaks me out,' he says, laughing.
18 SEPTEMBER
Sanderson Hotel, London
It's the day before the show that will become the most talked-about event of London Fashion Week, and Williamson hasn't slept. 'We did the running order yesterday but in the middle of the night I realised I was sending it out in the wrong order,' he says, not looking in the least bit ruffled – no tantrums and tiaras here. 'So at eight o'clock this morning I had to call everyone back in and change it all.'
Williamson and Velosa and a squad of casting directors and stylists are installed in the all-white penthouse suite with views across a blue-skied London. Every half hour an international model by the name of Olya or Anja stops by (again) to try on the clothes she'll model tomorrow. To the incongruous squawking of Radio 1 she clonks over the white floorboards in high lace-up sandals and the kind of spicy, sexy numbers that have become quintessential Williamson – butterfly-print chiffon party dresses, Aztec beaded shifts, lean candy-striped trousers and glimmering, throw-on cocktail tops.
'If I don't show this collection in a very ordered manner, it could look like a jumble sale,' says Williamson. 'So now I've got a story. The girl is a British urban nomad who's about to go on her travels. The first outfit she's going to wear, here' – he pulls at a striped yellow blazer – 'is sunglasses, jacket, a swimsuit and a travel bag. I think when people see that, whether they like it or not, they'll get the point.' That point is an enticing promise that he stitches into every collection: come with me and we'll find a more exotic horizon, a more fabulous sunset.
During a hiatus between models, Williamson sits down on the sofa for a chat. He's warm and open but I can't say he's been particularly wowed by our Manchester connection. 'Bizarre,' he says, the big eyes widening, but that's all. Granted, he's got a lot on his plate today but later I think, well, why would he want a big love-in about Manchester? After all, he's created a multimillion-pound business out of his desperate desire to escape it. As he says, his flamboyant aesthetic is 'the extreme opposite' of the environment he grew up in. 'I know it sounds so negative but, if I were to describe Manchester as a colour, it would be grey. Grey and industrial. And from a young age I felt a tension about that,' he says. 'I knew this wasn't my life. Now I love to travel and I go to the most exotic destinations I can find – Bali, Mauritius, India – the places with the hottest climates, the sexiest clothes, the brightest colours. But back then it was my work that was my escape.'
Williamson recently bought a cottage in the middle of Hampstead Heath, which sounds a million miles away from suburban Manchester. Ironically, his next-door neighbour happens to be Liam Gallagher.
19 SEPTEMBER
MW show, Eaton Square, London
9.30am Small independent fashion labels can't afford to be patriotic and for the past five years Williamson has been unashamed about scooting Stateside every six months to go where the big buyers are. It's been a wise decision. In August the company won investment from TSM Capital, founded by the former Bloomingdale's chairman, Marvin Traub, which will see new Matthew Williamson shops opening in Los Angeles and Paris.
But now, for one morning only, in a marquee on the south side of Eaton Square, the show's come home. And what a show. Backstage (where Williamson's in a make-up chair wearing eye-bag patches), there's a palpable buzz. And perhaps it can't be entirely down to anticipation of the spring/summer 2008 collection. It's not; Melissa, Williamson's PR, can't contain it any longer. Two days ago Prince – currently performing in London – phoned to ask if he could open the show. Williamson, naturally, jumped at the chance. 'But don't tell anyone,' Melissa says. Is she kidding? This is the coup of the week! Even Trudie Styler is looking excited.
12.20pm A cheer goes up from the models backstage. Two minutes later the teeny, top-hatted Prince enters the tent and makes his way to a front-row seat, which Velosa, who is a mite intimidating, has been guarding furiously. Even before Prince starts whispering into a mike the crowd has gone wild. It's a risky strategy – if the collection doesn't live up to the special guest, it will be entirely embarrassing. But there's no chance of that. The confection of colour and print is irresistible. Williamson's crowd welcomes him back rapturously.
9.15pm Inside the hot new nightclub Bungalow 8 people are still talking Prince. 'Apparently, he'll be here in two minutes,' goes the whisper.
11pm Although Sienna Miller, Rhys Ifans, Deborah Harry and model-of-the-moment Agyness Deyn all show for the after-party, this isn't an OTT showbiz affair. The crowd is made up of Williamson's friends and family (his mum and dad, who were on the front row earlier and his sister, Andrea) and the 35-strong Williamson team. Williamson and Miller look like children as they move through the crowd holding hands. Meanwhile, I chinwag with Matthew's mum's nice friend, Geraldine, who it turns out knows almost my entire extended family from Chorlton and is also related to my first primary-school teacher. Never imagined I'd be standing in London's hippest nightclub chatting about Miss O'Donohue. 'Matthew's dad's been told Prince is going to be here in two minutes,' whispers Geraldine.
20 SEPTEMBER
Williamson and Prince are splashed across almost every national newspaper.
27 SEPTEMBER
Sala Montenapoleone, Milan
A week later and it's chucking it down in Milan. Inside, an hour before show time, Williamson saunters down the plastic-covered white catwalk. 'You look calm,' I comment. 'As always,' he says wryly.
Williamson is contracted to Pucci for 50 per cent of his time. Two major collections for different houses is a big undertaking. He separates them in his own mind by creating different personae for each label. 'The Matthew girl is bohemian and wouldn't mind going to Ibiza and getting a bit grungy. The Pucci woman is snappy and high-maintenance,' he says. 'T he Matthew girl is barefoot, Pucci is in high heels.'
Even if he didn't have to juggle his workload, the Pucci gig would be tricky. 'Everybody thinks they know what Pucci is. It's Capri, jet-set, bikini, swirly jersey – and that's great, but it also makes my position difficult,' he says. 'Because if I just do that, I'm no good, but if I move too far away, people will say, "That's not Pucci." Suzy Menkes [the fashion editor of the International Herald Tribune] thinks she knows what Pucci was and what it should be. But actually doing it is a nother story.'
For this season, instead of reworking archive prints, he's created his own inspired by 'neon tubes of light'. In the deconstructed shifts and jackets, the 1970s-style kaftans and Aztec prints that make their way down the catwalk, it's easy to see what Williamson is bringing to this Pucci party. Later that day Suzy Menkes writes, 'The British designer is making a good straightforward job with brand Pucci.' Mission accomplished.
2 OCTOBER
On the phone, London
'It's all gone better than I ever expected,' Williamson says over his mobile a week later. 'We've had a great reaction to both the shows. It feels like a line drawn in the sand. Now I can move on.'
But with the exhibition approaching, the pace hasn't dropped. 'It feels like my third show,' he says. And a bit like This Is Your Life. ' It's weird and daunting, seeing the past ten years of work put up for people to analyse. But it's too late to turn back now.' He laughs. 'Nah, I wouldn't want to. It's just a bit nerve-wracking.'
I wonder how he's changed in the past ten years? 'For a while I struggled with people's perception of my label,' he says. 'At the start I was in such a mood about that. I wanted to be cool and I wasn't cool. After the first show the reviews all said the same things: Jade Jagger, fuchsia pink, India. I'd say to Joseph, "Argh, it drives me insane."' He adopts an insistent voice: '"I can do leather, I can do suits, I can do black, I'm a designer." But Joseph would say, "You need to learn to embrace what you are. The travel, the colour, the girl – that's the DNA of our brand, that's great, that's what makes a label." Ten years later I can see he was right.'
'Matthew Williamson: 10 Years in Fashion' is at the Design Museum, London SE1 (designmuseum.org; 0870 833 9955) until 31 January
http://www.telegraph.co.uk/fashion/...=/fashion/2007/10/21/st_matthewwilliamson.xml
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Eccentricity
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haute femme
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^^Yeah I don't think all clothes in that shoot were Twenty8Twelve..
I was looking on laredoute.com, and I came across some (cheap!) boots that resemble Sienna's grey tie boots, if anyone is interested:
http://www.us.redoute.com/clothing/...0&DeptId=14086&ProductTypeId=1&PurchaseType=0
I was looking on laredoute.com, and I came across some (cheap!) boots that resemble Sienna's grey tie boots, if anyone is interested:
http://www.us.redoute.com/clothing/...0&DeptId=14086&ProductTypeId=1&PurchaseType=0
isupporthil
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i want to see the entire nylon shoot!!! can't wait!!
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