Sophia Kokosalaki
October 06, 2004 - Paris
The most eagerly awaited show of the Paris season so far was the Paris debut of Sophia Kokosalaki, the latest London-based designer to decamp from the UK scene and present her collection here.
For Kokosalaki, a Greek lady who arrives with a reputation for inventive tailoring and an exact understanding of what women really want to wear, it could only be a tough debt before the world’s toughest jury – French fashionistas.
As if to underline the test, the show was staged in the Convent des Cordeliers, in the shadow of the Sorbonne, where foreign thinkers have traditionally gone to test out their theories before the French intellectual establishment.
Heightening the atmosphere were reports that Givenchy were keen to hire Kokosalaki as the new women’s ready-to-wear designer for the house. And where there is smoke there is fire, as Marco Gobbetti, Givenchy president, and Jean Jacques the heading hunting elf of LVMH, the conglomerate that owns the house, were both in the audience.
One would have to say that Sophia more than comfortably passed her first French test. She is a draped of real talent, who understands the human figure better than the vast majority of her contemporaries. Moreover, this designer has a brilliant eye for fabric and finish, showing shiny stains that looked like leather and twisted plisse silks that were classical yet contemporary.
Her most telling look was the second exit worn by Ukrainian super-model Daria Werbowy, a pale gray combo of plisse bra top and culottes with a woven gold fabric belt, that was just the right side of sexy sophistication.
Her Greek heritage is always in evidence at shows of Kokosalaki, who designed the uniforms for this summer’s Olympics. Goddess dresses, wasp waists and a certain classical elegance were obvious throughout.
Asked when he would name a new designer at Givenchy, Gobbetti told FWD: “She’s a great talent, but far too many names have been talked about. Now is the time for silence.”
However, after three barn-storming Brits in just six years – John Galliano, Alexander McQueen and Julien Macdonald - Sophia’s subtle ideas would seem a much more logical fit with Hubert de Givenchy’s lady like fashion. Of that much we are sure.
probably one of her strongest collections this far,
