Sruli Recht-Icelandic designer

[kiddokiddo]

Sruli Retch is a28 yo designer who was born in Jerusalem and currently based in Reykjavik, Iceland. His obsession of geometric tailoring and architectural shapes really impress me. There is a sense of sinister and gothic in his designs which is quite captivating. Moreover, every garment is impeccably finished inside and out so that wearers could use either or. His new range of shoes is equally exquisite and was noticably featured on dianepernet and stylebubble

I feel like every garment should be viewed on different angles to appreciate the detailed construction and strong silhouette of his amazing design and execution

Seal skin hooded dress

Leather neckbrace vest (very early Mcqueen and Margielaheart:

srulirecht.com

 

[kiddokiddo]

Leather bondage armwarmers

Pinstriped reconstructed vest

 

[kiddokiddo]

How lovely is the chainlink touch. This vest absolutely stole my heart

Inside out

 

[kiddokiddo]

Sheep skin shearling coat with combination lock closure

Holstered vest

 

[kiddokiddo]

Geometric shoulder wool jacket

 

[kiddokiddo]

Pleated back tulip coat

 

[kiddokiddo]

Inside out

Tri hooded cape

 

[kiddokiddo]

 

[kiddokiddo]

Menswear

Shoes (Hand-lasted and extremely limited-made of exotic skins such as whale foreskin, kangaroo, pine, buffalo, swine, sheep)

srulirecht.com,stylebubble

 

[ilaughead]

Surpising, but I actually I like a lot of this...

 

[malin_08]

It's not that functional as it looks. But I love the innovative use of closuring. It's used as if it's always meant to be used liked that.
If only some of the coats and jackets were more flattering in the arms. I love thin/tight and long arms. That's up to the designer.

 

[vetements]

nice stuff, and the look reminds me of carol christian poell and martin margiela, and i like his treatment of exotic hides.

hopefully icelandic designers will get more exposure soon. i recently saw a t shirt design at h&m that was from an icelandic designer, rather good looking stuff.

 

[Scott]

wow,his work is really,really strong! i like the usage of those objects besides the clothes itself....it does remind one of margiela but also a bit of robert cary. but his skill is brilliant. i don't think many designers...many emerging talents,can take on these kinds of ideas and elements and execute them in such an extraordinary manner. he's wise beyond his years,really.

and as far as function....well,it may not work on everybody but i would refrain from saying it doesn't all together. i can imagine alot of the design keen people in wintry reykjavik wearing some of these coats and capes.

 

[5-Hour man]

Wow. This is extremely beautiful. It somewhat reminds me of the work of Carol Christian Poell. But that leather neckbrace vest scares me. It reminds me of the Silence of the Lambs... I love the menswear. Where to buy, and what are the price points on the shoes and jackets? I want some!

 

[Frances]

I believe this designer is actually Australian, from Melbourne...

 

[BerlinRocks]

the first boots for men are quite amazing!!!!
as scott said this is really strong... and most stuff are really good...
this guy seems pretty influenced by yojhi, rick owens, margiela, chalayan etc.
well, to me, it's pretty clear influences. but i may be wrong...

 

[wheneveriwakeup]

A flawless execution of inspired ideas and impeccable construction. All of these pieces would be lovely in editorials and many of the coats, capes, and a few of the waistcoats would work quite well IRL.

Thanks for posting, Kiddokiddo!

 

[whitecollargirl]

the tri hooded capes are devine, i want one

i think most of these pieces would be suited to editorials especially with thier interesting closures ect but they could always work as well in real life, not so much the combonation lock jacket but most definetly the mens pleated back coat!

 

[softgrey]

from his website...
srulirecht.com...

*he WAS in australia- but is now in iceland...
if he had a clue...he would be in paris though imo......
ABOUT


My own blood gets on everything I make- one day auctioneers may gene test my work for authentication

I was a very detached child... living partly in this world.. and mostly in my head.

Sruli Recht- Made to measure - Jerusalem 1979
Migrated like a broken Sea Bird, Johannesburg South Africa - Melbourne Australia - European Nomad landed in Reykjavik Iceland

work

process process
pro
cess
all of my work is inspired by the resonance of process. for me, design lines are more of a result of process and form, than they are a decision.
That is not to say my work just happens... I know what it will look like before I do it, but there is a mid point where everything
liquefies,
all forms and finishings...
and hardens right at the last moment. up til that moment when the last button is on it is still unformed.

The blend of organic geometry

Solid backward tailoring [using techniques to push against themselves ]

Pragmatic design

Abstracted forms. fragility. permanence.

Recontextualized
Ob
scur
ing lines

Hides shape and from through graphic placement of lines

I like my work to seem as thought its been constructed by robotics in an orbiting factory. I want each piece to make people think about how its been done...
how did he do that?
how was that possible?
and
when I make only one- I want it so look like there were a thousand.

I like making ugly things beautiful.
Taking fabrics that repulse and bypass peoples defences by reforming it into a thing of beauty.
If you stripped back the structures and looked at the elements
you
would
dislike
them.

I can see every point of a garment in my head from fabric cutting to every seam clipping
There is not a wasted line on my garments
From the
in
side
out,
I observe each positive and negative space and its reaction to the landscape surrounding it.
The interaction of lines is paramount.

Makes things without time.
Pieces that seem to have existed in the 1800's or 2180
I like to make things non-existent, things that live in a small metropolis out of time. things that have no direct place [like me]
I don't feel as though I exist in this time and the making of each of these pieces is making the world in my head real.
Bringing it out to poison other peoples world.
Maybe infection is the right word.

My work is the result of process, not intention.
I'm not trying to
make it look like anything
as
much
as feel like it was or is going to be
something.
It is an emotion or an intellectual abrasion.

innovation - I like to make the next thing.
the thing you won't wear yet because you aren't ready to
this is what I do with my 'made to measure' work particularly; look at someone's character and what they wear and how they move, and make for them the 'next' piece of their narrative.
like predictive text.

humans have a tendency to model things unknown on a scale of things known. I remember this... and aim left.

my attitude is that I can make anything that I can see... be it in my head or on paper or in front of me.

Insect and animal forms
Scissors
Self-Destructive work loads
The sound of blades sliding
Uncut leather skins,
Old woollen military uniforms propellers
Fabric
Lots and lots of fabric,
Old natural fabric,
Brown,
The prospect that I might one day be able to sit still
Worn out mid 80's cyberpunk novels
Books about how mundane things evolved- like language- and the cerebral construction of reality- and how things are made or work
Films where a plausible alter reality has been constructed. then, now or not yet
Repetition in form
Matte surfaces
Robots,
Old and new medical equipment
Ostrich leather,
Wit
Hardware stores
Knowing the sound and rhythm of someone's walk
Green
Reading when I should be sleeping
Innovation
Delicate structures
Caffeine
Texture
Facial hair
The profile of layer slices
Jelly fish, squids and rays,
The cold
Buttons
Working out how 'they' did it
Art that appears factory made
Self imposed aphasia
Being very quiet
Anything soviet- the old soviet lifestyle gave a massive importance to everything, simple everyday anythings. cans of food, boots, coats tables... things were so hard to get that they had massive weight to them.
Shirts buttoned up
Patterns and association
Scarves
Selective appropriation [takin' otha peoples stuff]
Poker faces
Being constantly engaged
Undoing knots - especially the really tiny ones in thread
Seeing animals and faces in things
Becoming entranced with the way people move
Nazi era technology
40's and 50's view of the future
The sternomastoid
Finding my other halves

Cutting things
Cutting things
Cutting things
Cut
ting
things

 

[BerlinRocks]

Sruli Recht Shoes and Accessories
HELD BY

Iceland
Reykjavík - Liborius



MUNDI AW 07
HELD BY

Iceland
Reykjavík - Kron Kron

France
Paris - Kokon To Zai

UK
London - Concrete
- Beyond The Valley

USA
New York - Dernier Cri
Los Angeles - Welcome Hunters

Japan
Tokyo Laforet - H.P.FRANCE exclusive
Kumamoto City - Isis Martha

Italy
Bologna - Zoraido

Germany
Berlin - F95