I think a lot of the best photographers do not shoot for american publications because they are too commercial and too safe. All American magazines are trying to be like Lucky. Since we lost Harper's bazaar-because as far as I'm concerned, it died when Liz Tilberis did-we don't have a really strong magazine producing iconic imagesin this country.
some of the best fashion photography is now ad campaigns. They have bigger budgets and more creative freedom than editorial stories. Whenever people complain about the number of ads in a mag, it makes me chuckle, because that's the reason I buy a magazine, very often, to see the new campaigns.
I will love Meisel forever, but I don't think it means we can't have some new blood...Testino...he's not an innovator-as someone mentioned...Matt and Markus always seem to get it right. Nathaniel Goldberg is another fave of mine-based in London.
I've watched so many people come and go-crash and burn. It's unbelievable how quickly you can see your career go in the toilet-just one high profile mistake and you're done...ie.Gucci-they tried a bunch of people and then after 9/11-time to play it safe-call testino back.
The thing with some of these guys you see shooting all the time is that they are consistent and you are guaranteed to get the shots you need. This is usually more important to the client than disovering new talent...It makes sense from a business point of view, but it's annoying...
Same story for stylists...