The Craftmanship of Haute Couture ... The details and how they do it.

Does anyone remember the Chanel collection where they said the tweed was not woven, but an embroidered fabric?
 
You may be referring to the Spring 2003 HC collection. The tweed was embroidered to look as if it was unravelling and disappearing into tulle.

https://youtu.be/p5-cdIfl95o

My scan, Vogue Germany April 2003
 

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Does anyone remember the Chanel collection where they said the tweed was not woven, but an embroidered fabric?

F/W 2012 Couture maybe ?

From Tim Blanks review:

Except that the classic tweed was actually embroidery on tulle. Thousands of hours of handwork.

vogue.com
 
Does anyone remember the Chanel collection where they said the tweed was not woven, but an embroidered fabric?

At Chanel the tweeds aren't tweeds anymore... All of it is embroidery. Pretty crazy I know. :cool: The level of craftmanship at Chanel is just on another level, seriously. Nothing compares.

And yeah, as George said, I think the first collection in which ALL of the "tweeds" were actually embroideries was F/W 2012. But as I said they have done it after that show and I guess they will keep doing it.
 
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Fendi Haute Fourrure Fall 2016 making




Fendi Fur Atelier


 
Thanks everyone :Pink:

I took a look at the show you mentioned, george5. Some nice coats there. I think it is like the scans Sunnyinlondon posted, to create something that cannot be made by a woven

I found a ready-to-wear collection with the same, F/W 2010
They're said to have a knit as well made to look like the Chanel tweed.

It is amazing, this amount of work yes:smile: and doing it so often in the year!
And for RTW too, no? =)
 
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^^
They stopped using "real tweed" before 2010. They have done an incredible research over the years to make the tweed lighter.

First, they used different materials to make tweed (I remember that they did a silk and polyester tweed) and Karl asked Linton (their supplier) to develop new ways of doing tweed and over the years, the Chanel tweed became quite shimmery and all.

In the 90's, Mr Lesage wanted to develop his affair and established a workshop. In the late 90's, he presented his "tweed" to Chanel and ever since then, they have used Lesage tweed in their collections. I think it was also instrumental in them buying Lesage, as they have the exclusivity to this tweed.
Since 2008, Lesage does tweed for all Chanel collections. That's why it's so expensive and why there are so little differences between Couture, Prefall and main RTW collections.

In addition to that, now they are doing tweed embroideries on an Organza base. But i think they are using those techniques only in Haute Couture and for special RTW pieces.

In the first video, you can see how light is the tweed developped by Linton.


In this video, the way Lesage weaves their tweed.


At 0:53, you see how their embroideries to make it look like tweed and at 1:43, their tweed on organza


At 1:59, another showcase of their technique of "tweed".
 
They stopped using real tweed altogether? That's weird. Why not do some things is real tweed and some in embroidery? I mean this are still different materials that can be used for different purposes. Also it's a house staple, so I don't see a real reason to eliminate it. I predict real tweed will be back soon, it's just a phase.
 
They stopped using real tweed altogether? That's weird. Why not do some things is real tweed and some in embroidery? I mean this are still different materials that can be used for different purposes. Also it's a house staple, so I don't see a real reason to eliminate it. I predict real tweed will be back soon, it's just a phase.

No, not altogether. They have pieces in classic plain tweed but when i said they stopped doing "real tweed" before 2010, i was talking more about the fabrics they mixed altogether to make it look like tweed (in the second video).

I'm sorry if my explanation wasn't that clear:wink:

Basically:
"Classic tweed" = Linton
"Fantasy tweed" (weaved and embroidered)= Lesage.

Linton is still their supplier and tweed is really what is selling in terms of RTW at Chanel. That's why they're really pushing it and why 98% of their collections have tweed.
 
^^THanks for your clarification. I appreciate your great knowledge.
 
I didn't think of beadwork when I read about the tweed:P That is cool. Thanks Lola

I actually thought the tweed that was embroidery resembled more the Lesage video. Loved that very much.
 
"piercing" from berluti 2003 catalogue

not that it was full bespoke though

my scan
 

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nowdays, Chanel haute couture starts from €40,000, for the most simply piece with no or minimal embellishment, i think the price definitely has been raised in the past 10 years
 

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